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I’ve redesigned the Thermal Detonator so all the electronics are in the top section of the dome and to make it easier to remove the bottom just to recharge it. I’ve done a four part video showing how it is all done and links to all my download files. Link th-cam.com/video/eTQG4ysQJEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=COvffEbgMGijS0qV Regards Mark

I put a link below the part 2 video. I’ve just checked and it still works. Cheers Mark

Good luck, you’ll need a good magnifying glass when painting it.

No , I painted the hull first in the two halves, them covered the window’s whilst repainting the seam line.

I got them from Greenstrawberry. The link for it is here. greenstrawberry.cz/star-trek/shuttle-type-f-tos--56.html Regards Mark

@@ScaleMarkModels Thanks Mark

Hi Kevin I really can’t remember. It was just a touch of silver and pale green, I really went by what I thought looked right. I did make up a reasonable batch of it to paint the whole ship plus any touching up. Regards Mark

Thank you

All the information is in part 2 of the videos. If you go to the description, all the parts list is there along with links to the components. Mark

You need to use a PN 2222A 6E Transistor. The speaker and other parts I have listed in the notes in the video. Also check to see if the sketch has loaded correctly. If you have the LED light working the chances are it has loaded correctly and will be the transistor.

I bought the case from this company. It was expensive, but you can get custom made ones. They are also UV protected. It was several years ago, and it looks like they are international now. Link below, hope that helps. Mark www.widdowsonsltd.co.uk

Wow, and I don’t get paid. Didn’t know there were commercial settings, will take a look. Thank you for the info.

@@ScaleMarkModels yeah thats the thing YT really wanna push everyone to their premium accounts!

Hi Aaron The board is a Arduino Pro Mini. The link to the download for the program is in part 2 of the video series in the description and full video instructions to program it, is in Part 2 of the Build the Thermal detonator. Hope that helps. If I can be any more help let me know. Mark

Thank you for your kind words. Mark

Thank you

The kill switch was to stop any drain of the battery as it would always be in standby, as well as if the prop was being transported, it couldn’t accidentally switch itself on, as overtime the top switch can be quite free in the slot. Good luck with your build, the nano is very similar to the pro mini.

Thank you. I really can’t remember it was a while ago. They were very small motors and I had to reduce the buck convertor running the motors from a 9v supply to around 0.3v so it would not spin too fast and break up the model.

Thank you. 🙏

I’ve no idea what the original prop size was, other than this link below which says it is about 2.5in in diameter. Just measured mine and it is around 2.9in. registry.rebelscum.com/index.php?action=review&review=td_weathered

I appreciate the quick reply! I scaled them down uniform to a shell that was 2.5" but the 9 volt slot was too small to fit the battery. Back to the drawing board!@@ScaleMarkModels

When I designed the innards, everything was a tight squeeze, so reducing it by around 14% to 2.5in will not work with the electronics. The 9v battery just fits in the scale I have. You’ll have the same issue when installing speakers an switches if reduced as well in the height. I’m not sure you’ll see much of a difference at 0.4in anyway. Good luck with it, hope it turns out well. Mark

I have 1 full kit available, link below. This is only available to UK as customs abroad won’t allow lithium batteries. www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1161396878/thermal-detonator-complete-kit-with?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=thermal+detonator&ref=sr_gallery-1-11&frs= Regards Mark

I’ve not tried the nano, however I do have one and I placed it on the housing and it is much longer but does fit. The issue I see, assuming the sketch works with it, is that the usb port sits quite high and when everything is put together, ie the speaker housing, you literally only have a couple of millimetres from the speaker to the board, so there is potentially a height problem. When I designed this I knew everything was going to be a tight fit with not much room to play with.

Thank you, I’m building the Razor Crest diorama at the moment and the electronics in that will be far more technical, just got to put it all together.😀

It is an old kit, I think Airfix have discontinued this one now. Some fitting issues but nothing that can’t be ironed out. Good luck.

Thank you

From the front of the saucer to the rear of the nacelle it approximately 47 cm.

Criticism accepted. The gap was not too apparent when it first got put together. I had to paint all the parts before construction because of all the electronics that was inside. Over the course of the build, making the base, that gap started to show more, I didn’t want to make it worse buy trying to fill and repaint, so I left it. Your right re the grid lines, the original was pencilled on, but my choice for this kit was purely for its size. Thank you for looking.

@@ScaleMarkModels All logical.. building a model is very much a fluid process! The line does match the rest of the lines.. not having light leaks is more important. It is an awesome build, especially with the etched glass stand. Tribbles are in the red! 😂 Seriously, I learned some great tips and your sharing is very much appreciated! It's a beautiful model!

@@ScaleMarkModels I'm just spitballing here because you are much more advanced than I am, but I'm curious if you'd be able to tint some water-soluble putty that could be wiped off instead of sanded.. I have a 1:350 refit that I still want to build.. so I'm trying to learn as many tricks as possible. The fact that you were able to get such incredible results with a 1:600 is quite impressive!

Your 1:350 refit should come together far better than this kit. You can you water putty, various on the market, but when they dry it shrinks so you need to build it up otherwise you will always see the joint. There will be sanding to get a perfect seam. Then just repaint. I did this with with seams lines to the two halves of the main body. Took several days to get right..

@@ScaleMarkModels I appreciate the tips. I've done the 1:600 A, but I didn't light it. I've just had some good luck filling in seams after the paint was put on. It's never perfect but it tends to look better than the seam, depending on the situation, of course.

I applied it around the lines, using my finger to spread it on, however we’re it got into the grooves I folded a piece of sandpaper and run it inside the groves to get rid of any excess debris of Bondo. Start with the sandpaper at the bottom where it is the widest and push it to the top. The Bondo will come out quite easily. Mark

Hi All the prints were done in filament. The infill was 100% and on the top setting on my Creality printer. The domes take about 12 hours each on this setting, but you do get a good finish and less sanding. The filament I use for this is JAYO white, I got mine from Amazon. The internal parts were black filament from Amazon too. Hope that helps. Mark

@@ScaleMarkModels that helps out quite a bit thank you sir. I do have one more question lol…the link for the “expensive level switch” you provided is no longer working. Do you know where else I can find that? Amazon perhaps?

The other link below for the cheaper alternatives is below. I’ve bought some of these and they work fine, you’ll just need to bend the pins back once you’ve soldered the wires. I used these in a couple I’ve recently built for people and they fit and work fine. Again if you get some just bend the pins. Cheers Mark

Thank you, it is not the best of kits.

I have not tested these with the ATM model, these were specifically designed for the Revell. I know both kits are 1/72 Scale, the landing flaps and vtol engine may fit with some cutting involved as I did with the Revell kit. Regards Mark

Hi I now have some parts adapted and designed for the AMT Razor Crest. More will follow soon. They are available on Shapeways. www.shapeways.com/shops/scalemark-models-1 Thanks Mark

Hi, just an update. I’ve ordered the AMT version, so I will be testing all my parts very soon and altering them accordingly to fit. Mark

Thank you 👍

Thank you, hopefully it won’t be as longer wait as the last one😁👍