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I put a link below the part 2 video. I’ve just checked and it still works. Cheers Mark

Good luck, you’ll need a good magnifying glass when painting it.

No , I painted the hull first in the two halves, them covered the window’s whilst repainting the seam line.

I got them from Greenstrawberry. The link for it is here. greenstrawberry.cz/star-trek/shuttle-type-f-tos--56.html Regards Mark

@@ScaleMarkModels Thanks Mark

Hi Kevin I really can’t remember. It was just a touch of silver and pale green, I really went by what I thought looked right. I did make up a reasonable batch of it to paint the whole ship plus any touching up. Regards Mark

Thank you

All the information is in part 2 of the videos. If you go to the description, all the parts list is there along with links to the components. Mark

You need to use a PN 2222A 6E Transistor. The speaker and other parts I have listed in the notes in the video. Also check to see if the sketch has loaded correctly. If you have the LED light working the chances are it has loaded correctly and will be the transistor.

I bought the case from this company. It was expensive, but you can get custom made ones. They are also UV protected. It was several years ago, and it looks like they are international now. Link below, hope that helps. Mark www.widdowsonsltd.co.uk

Wow, and I don’t get paid. Didn’t know there were commercial settings, will take a look. Thank you for the info.

Hi Aaron The board is a Arduino Pro Mini. The link to the download for the program is in part 2 of the video series in the description and full video instructions to program it, is in Part 2 of the Build the Thermal detonator. Hope that helps. If I can be any more help let me know. Mark

Thank you for your kind words. Mark

The kill switch was to stop any drain of the battery as it would always be in standby, as well as if the prop was being transported, it couldn’t accidentally switch itself on, as overtime the top switch can be quite free in the slot. Good luck with your build, the nano is very similar to the pro mini.

Thank you. 🙏

I have 1 full kit available, link below. This is only available to UK as customs abroad won’t allow lithium batteries. www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1161396878/thermal-detonator-complete-kit-with?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=thermal+detonator&ref=sr_gallery-1-11&frs= Regards Mark

It is an old kit, I think Airfix have discontinued this one now. Some fitting issues but nothing that can’t be ironed out. Good luck.

Thank you

From the front of the saucer to the rear of the nacelle it approximately 47 cm.

Criticism accepted. The gap was not too apparent when it first got put together. I had to paint all the parts before construction because of all the electronics that was inside. Over the course of the build, making the base, that gap started to show more, I didn’t want to make it worse buy trying to fill and repaint, so I left it. Your right re the grid lines, the original was pencilled on, but my choice for this kit was purely for its size. Thank you for looking.

@@ScaleMarkModels I'm just spitballing here because you are much more advanced than I am, but I'm curious if you'd be able to tint some water-soluble putty that could be wiped off instead of sanded.. I have a 1:350 refit that I still want to build.. so I'm trying to learn as many tricks as possible. The fact that you were able to get such incredible results with a 1:600 is quite impressive!

Your 1:350 refit should come together far better than this kit. You can you water putty, various on the market, but when they dry it shrinks so you need to build it up otherwise you will always see the joint. There will be sanding to get a perfect seam. Then just repaint. I did this with with seams lines to the two halves of the main body. Took several days to get right..

@@ScaleMarkModels I appreciate the tips. I've done the 1:600 A, but I didn't light it. I've just had some good luck filling in seams after the paint was put on. It's never perfect but it tends to look better than the seam, depending on the situation, of course.

I applied it around the lines, using my finger to spread it on, however we’re it got into the grooves I folded a piece of sandpaper and run it inside the groves to get rid of any excess debris of Bondo. Start with the sandpaper at the bottom where it is the widest and push it to the top. The Bondo will come out quite easily. Mark

@@ScaleMarkModels that helps out quite a bit thank you sir. I do have one more question lol…the link for the “expensive level switch” you provided is no longer working. Do you know where else I can find that? Amazon perhaps?

Thank you, it is not the best of kits.

Hi I now have some parts adapted and designed for the AMT Razor Crest. More will follow soon. They are available on Shapeways. www.shapeways.com/shops/scalemark-models-1 Thanks Mark

Hi, just an update. I’ve ordered the AMT version, so I will be testing all my parts very soon and altering them accordingly to fit. Mark

Thank you, hopefully it won’t be as longer wait as the last one😁👍

Thank you