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@@coryware7680 there isn't one, go to your nearest Hydraulic/hose shop and they will have it there. Amazon even has them, just pick your length and you'll have to swap out the banjo fitting too. They will help you with that as long as you take your old line in with you.

@@chatobalencian1504 thank you

@lowlowsandmore no problem brother did u try it out also u need some super fast up front I would get some cce Extreme (FATS) Cylinders (3/4” Port) or bmh Fat Sticks Cylinders and put straight ¾ fittings on cylinders and 2 #12 ¾ hoses from y block to front cylinders and make sure your plumbing is all the same size if u can run biggest check u can 1" and biggest y block and 1" or ¾ fittings to front hoses do not down size anything on front fittings and run dual or single #8 return and get rid of check valve also get some good good front coils from bmh the white sky high or red sky high if not find a good set from shorts hydraulics 3½ or 4 ton at the most run as much coil as you can and u just need to maybe remove 1-2 turns at the most and run brand new PANTHEON HIGH PRESSURE GEAR PUMP XPS (HAND LAPPED AND PORTED W/ QUAD SEAL) VERSION if you can't get that get the other Pantheon if not also don't forget to break in your gears and starters with no more than 24 volts especially your motors do u know how to do that and once you break them in open them up and wrap all the internals with liquid tape and also some jb weld and dont forget to dbl ground the casing on the motor also which gears u running now which marz are they the ones from CCE? This will get u on the bumper quick brother if you run what I told u and do all that work I was telling you and maybe 75-125 psi in piston u will have to play with that and 120-132 volts on front pump lmk if u need more help I can show u some pics I have of my old motors and stuff

​@@lowlowsandmore also bro which block are you running and on the return I would run a big # 8 return and also run a check valve on return as well to make sure you have no back pressure from piston when it's charged and the block is it stock aluminum block any work done to block and does it have all 6 bolts to mount marz gear on it and like I told u 10-11 batts on nose with good good #11 gear maybe 13 just depends how u have it set up but it should put u on bumper especially with that extra weight in bed also your timing looks off u need to let the front dump all the way and compress them springs then tap the front up and it will climb brother u almost have it just needs lil things here and there also I need to tell u the secret sauce for the front pump do not use hydraulic oil or that thick ass diesel oil u need something else

@@williamedwards3546 just their replacement delta dump parts for my rear pumps

@@ArmaniMorales-z9x with a nitrogen air tank with a welding regulator.

@@Dhdub683 i went from 4.5T to 4T and it was a big difference

@@gbodyperformance how detailed? I should have a video on my channel that talks about that.

@lowlowsandmore i currently have switches for individual on the rea and would like to add another one so it ties both sides together to lift and lower together in one switch

​@@gbodyperformance by adding a 6 prong switch jump thw wires from your other 2 switches to the new switch. 1 wire per prong.

​@@gbodyperformancethe center prongs require the 24v wires. You can go to my video where I'm wiring up a switch plate.

@@lowlowsandmore is there any way you can send a diagram??

@@toonse3683 yes the front suspension needs to be customized, i don't have any customers right now with that type of car so I can show you.

@lowlowsandmore thank you for replying what does it need to be replace if u don't mind me asking also I started following u on Instagram too now 😊 love u vids

@toonse3683 thank you, if I'm picturing it correctly I'm assuming your front spring cups are aluminum? If so, those need to be removed and put in a custom steel spring pocket in its place. I'm not sure if you can do a spindle swap on that vehicle. So you may have to reinforce the stock upper and lower arms.

@@Wildstylegrafix it's there to bleed air from the tank

@lowlowsandmore oh okay gotcha.

Hell yeah I wired my whole set up up watching him

Yes I am and Instagram

​@lowlowsandmore what is the name is it the same as your channel

@toonse3683 Jonathan Tavera on facebook and the YT channel name on Instagram

...sum red tops would do the trick i assume😉👍🏾

...good olde oldschool mindset.... i felt that👑🤌🏾 SPOOK-1🤝🏾

@@lac_grey not sure if I used 0/1 gauge or the couplings

@@LuisCarlos-id7ur I'm editing that video tonight

🔥🔥🔥💪🏼💪🏼

🔥🔥🔥💪🏼💪🏼

🔥🔥🔥💪🏼💪🏼

I've been busy and not enough time to sit down to edit and upload videos. I'm uploading a few videos close to each other.

@@freshbey8203 make sure you have a bridge then I would have your trailing arms reinforced if you don't want to buy the adjusting arms. If you have 8 batteries in the trunk it will 3 wheel. I do recommend reinforcing all of the frames stress points before you 3 wheel all the time.

@lowlowsandmore I have a bridge, 6 batteries, 3 pumps, 14" cylinders, a slip yoke drive shaft, and adjustable upper trailing arms @ stock length. I can do a standing 3 wheel, but I can't drive it on 3. The Pumkin pivots downward, putting the U joint in a bind once a rear side is lifted high enough to 3 wheel. What can I do to be able to drive locked up in the rear and still be able to drive when dropped all the way down?

@freshbey8203 you need to adjust your uppers by extending them and you shouldn't be binding up after that.

@lowlowsandmore thanks for your help

@@artursawicki4402 for lowriders we want voltage for more bounce by going negative to positive up to 10 batteries. Going negative to negative and Positive to Positive all you doing is gaining amps and staying at 12v no matter how many batteries are wired together.

@@AdamBelvin in my new video dropping soon says how to find them. You can find them on ebay as "prestolite brush assembly"

@@tyronecoca2352 your switch could be bad or your solenoids are stuck open. Most likely it's the switch