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Is it causing some sort of issue when you try it, or are you just wondering if someone else has tried it already?

@@alchemistsattic This is a problem I am experiencing myself. The post on Reddit was written by me. Is the ink you use in your TH-cam video alcohol ink? If so, I was wondering how you solved this problem.

Let's recap: I was trying to use alcohol ink to dye the liquid in the liquid core. It looked perfect for a day or two after I finished it, but over time, the color of the liquid faded and at the same time, the color was collecting in the holes I had plugged with UV resin. Asking others, I've been told that the alcohol ink and UV resin reacted with each other to cause this, and I'd like to fix this.

@@user-mm6th4iu3z Ohhhh. No, I'm using food coloring to color the liquid inside, since the liquid is mostly water. It seems to work pretty well! I haven't actually tried alcohol ink inside a core before.

@@alchemistsattic Thank you!! I've been wandering wildly to find this simple answer 'I use food coloring' haha

The little moon and star ones? Just Amazon. I couldn't find the exact ones I ordered, but here's some similar ones: amzn.to/4eQQtF8 amzn.to/47Qn8Zv (heads up I may make a small commission if you purchase from these links) I think they're marketed as "nail charms" quite often.

@@alchemistsattic Thank you. I've been having trouble finding ones without the loop at the top for bracelets.

I'm not as well versed in UV resin, but I don't see why not if you have clear molds to be able to cure them. I think probably the reason most people don't use UV resin is that it's not as strong as 2-part epoxy.

I don't see why not- It'd be worth a try! The reason I went for the tape is because it's faster than putting the lego forms together, but I suppose if you put something in to act as keys and then removed them before adding the bricks, you wouldn't even need to take the forms apart before doing the lids.

Like, they spread on the surface of your cup? Or they didn't cure properly? What kind of mess? Maybe we can troubleshoot it a little bit.

@@alchemistsattic the spread on the surface of the cup really fast after being dropped in and kindof merge.

@@maiadraconica6488 oh, yeah, mine do that too. That's part of the reason I try to add the white drips on top of the color drips as quickly as possible.That seems to keep them a little more distinct for some reason. I also try to use ink colors that will look good if they mix a little because I expect they will some.

@@alchemistsattic that's some good advice, I'll keep trying

@@maiadraconica6488 Best of luck!

I started in 2020! Dice making was kind of my covid quarantine hobby that snowballed, lol

Are you asking about the spheres for the insides of the dice, or where I got my molds from? For the molds, I ordered masters (3d printed dice) from Revel Broker, and then made them myself with a two-part silicone.

@@alchemistsattic oh both actually! And I see I’ll check them out!

Actually I’m stupid your spheres are in the description. Are the 18mm spheres the same you used for your jumbo dice?

@@jasper9103 the 18mm are what I use for my standard d20s. I don't think I have any spheres for jumbo sized dice, currently, but if you want to figure out what size you need, they should be just big enough to touch the numbers on the inside of your mold to hold them in place, so you could measure the width of your die from face to face and then subtract the depth of the numbers to figure out the diameter you need.

I noticed that it was the pan flag while I was editing the video XD

I'm not sure a pressure cooker would work or not- don't most of those require some moisture? You need things to be as dry as possible for the resin to cure. That said, I leave them at about 35 psi for 24 hours.

@alchemistsattic Thank you! Hopefully I'll be able to make these for my friends soon!

@@honk4459 Yeah! Best of luck with it!

I usually wait for a certain thickness of resin more than a certain time, but it's towards the end of my work time for sure. I want it to be honey-like in consistency when I pour. I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard of people making multiple dirty pour cups and then pouring them at different measured intervals (10 min, 20 min, 30 min, etc.) to see what timing works best for them.

Hi there, I'm glad you're liking things! Yeah, getting your name out there is HARD. Best of luck- I hope it goes well for you! (and yay! kitties!)

Awww, hello, kitty!

Might have to add some to my shop once I get a system down for them :D

I appreciate the tips!

I've never even heard of a plasmoid before! I just looked it up, and I may have to play one in my next game, that sounds super fun!

@@alchemistsattic Apologies, I was a Plasmoid Fighter - complete with French fry crown (lost a roll in the pub) and full of frog eggs because I failed another dexterity roll and fell into a pond full of tadpole/frog eggs!

I think having a pressure pot helps a lot for getting rid of the air bubbles and does really elevate how polished the dice look. That said, you can still make dice! They just might not be professional quality. If you just wanna do it as a hobby, though, then that doesn't really matter too much. There's some things you can do to help reduce bubbles apart from having a pressure pot, like using a thinner resin (or supposedly warming it up slightly to make it runnier. That also will make it cure faster, though), and using molds that have vents/sprues so that there's a path for air to escape. You can always start with other resin things before jumping right into dice, too. A lot of other items don't need a pressure pot at all.

Depends on the effect I'm going for, but usually alcohol inks. I go over the different options more in this video: th-cam.com/video/ojkeM3wr9Hs/w-d-xo.html

My pleasure! I hope it goes well for ya :)

Sure, go for it- just don't, like, use the whole thing. Feel free to tag me in it, too. I'd love to see how your video turns out :)

I cure things in a pressure pot, which squishes the bubbles down until they're invisible.

It's a pot that I put my resin pieces in to cure while under about 35-40psi of pressure. It gets rid of all the bubbles in the finished pieces.