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Sure - it’s Heljan reference 2679 - but please note that I have modified the external appearance of my model slightly and the sound was also fitted by me (doesn’t come with sound pre-installed). Hope that helps.

@@springmillstreet thank you it does. I’m guessing it’s an 80s version with no tablet catcher recesses on the cab sides and no dual brake conversion? A great looking model btw.

No problem and thanks for the kind feedback. This one is meant to be on the cusp - late ‘70s condition (before the large TOPS numbers became prevalent also).

Thanks for your kind comment. I would say “Have a go!” 🙂 Wagon kits can be a great but inexpensive way to get started. Even if you don’t have room for a layout, they can make nice static models (see my other video “weathered wagon miscellany”). All the best to you Bernie.

Indeed he is and very amenable to making a few changes - as he very kindly did here, when I told him what I was trying to achieve. 🙂

Thank you! 🙂

Thanks very much for the kind comments and feedback. The split-screen was my son's idea - we just set-up both of our phones to record; sync'ing the videos was a doddle in iMovie. :-)

Thanks for the kind comments and great question! This model is fitted with two 8ohm speakers, fitted in parallel. Both are generic so-called "megabass" type and easy to find online but, in combination, I find they give a very nice sound for O gauge models and are simpler to install than larger types: 1. A roughly, 1-inch square speaker with metal cone, fitted in the fuel/water tank (small modification needed, just to let the sound out). This speaker is the one you can hear mainly in the video. 2. A 'slab' (thin, rectangular) style enclosed, speaker fitted to the underside of the roof (no modification required but I did open up the loco exhaust port, again, just to let more sound out). I would say this second speaker is optional but just adds a slightly more rounded/fuller bass sound. Hope that helps!

Great, thanks for that - I have a fairly hefty bass speaker for fitting in the body, but it's interesting to hear your thoughts about the fuel tank speaker doing most of the work, so I'll look into that as I have something that may go in there too. Definitely coming round to the idea that two smaller speakers do a nicer job than one huge one.@@springmillstreet

It’s horses for courses. Generally, I believe you will get better fidelity from the largest, non-shrouded, properly enclosed, single speaker you can fit. However, those are all caveats that can sometimes be overcome by fitting, two smaller speakers …

@@springmillstreetHi, I’m quite interested to find out a bit more about your fuel tank modification for the speaker. I removed both fuel tanks earlier and was a bit taken aback to see there are no holes drilled in the base of the chassis to enable any speaker wires to reach the decoder. I understand you had to drill a series of holes in the bottom of the plastic fuel tank to allow sound out, but you surely didn’t drill through the bottom of the chassis as well?🤔

Quite right - however, conveniently close-by are the lighting DIP switches. Since these aren’t needed when fitting DCC, I removed them and passed the speaker wires through there. Hope that helps.

Thank you very much Matt. I can thoroughly recommend the Judith Edge kit, even to a complete novice (such as myself). However, if you’re prepared to wait a year or so, I believe Heljan will be releasing a RTR model in O gauge.

@@springmillstreet Yours just has that special edge and quality to it and thank you for your reply 😊

Thanks for the kind comments. The mineral wagon was added mainly for scale/perspective (as small shunters go, they don’t come much smaller) and to prove that, despite its size, it can still do the job for which it was intended. 🙂

Sure! It was a 50mm Visaton speaker (reference FRWS 5R). A bit of a squeeze but I’m a firm believer that, if you’re going to the trouble/expense of installing sound, it should sound its best. Hope that helps.

Thanks for your interest. Did you see the details provided in the description? More information about Megapoints controllers and I2C are available here: megapointscontrollers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Hackers-Guide.pdf

Thanks for your interest. Yes, it’s a large single speaker in the bodyshell, under the radiator roof fan. I’ll try to find a link to an image.

Image here: m.facebook.com/springmillstreet/photos/a.1980498138931109/2325268501120736

Thanks for your kind comment. Just twirling a cutting broach in the coupling-rod holes for the crankpin bushes resolved this issue; the diameter was increased by just a few thousandths of an inch (less than 0.1mm).

@@springmillstreet You're most welcome, I guessed it would be something like that as it ran well as it was. I'm glad to hear that you've got it sorted✌️👍😊

Unfortunately, TH-cam doesn’t allow images in comments. However, I hope that if you follow this link (below), you will find the details you need - scroll to the bottom of page 9 and you will see the diagram; the connection is the same for both P16 and P22. Please note, however, that stay-alive connections are usually available on the loco. PCB when using a P22 socket - you shouldn’t really need to connect directly to the decoder. Hope that helps. www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/Small_Decoders.pdf

@@springmillstreet Thank you 🙂

WLAN setup is via a device called XP-Multi - this plugs into Lenz XpressNet port and allows connection of wireless devices that follow Z21 LAN protocol. XP-Multi is available from Marius Dege, info at md-electronics.de There is a demo. video here: th-cam.com/video/zppTEd2YyGI/w-d-xo.html

@@springmillstreet oh I’m aware of him! I’ve been using his dcc adapters for a smoke install. I’ll check it out thanks!

Thank you Paul. The case is also waterproof - it can be submerged to a depth of several meters and remain watertight apparently. Not sure about shark-proof … but that might be more appropriate for Captain Scarlet. SIG 🙂

Or Stingray !!!

Thanks for watching and your kind comment Paul. Bif is working on another modified project for me which I hope to be able to share soon.

It’s an Arduino Uno based mimic panel. It works with a proprietary model railway control system - Megapoints - via I2C. Buttons on the side of the box can be used to set route endpoints; if the route is valid, then commands are sent to servo controllers, to set turnouts along the requested route. See here for more details of Megapoints: th-cam.com/users/DaveFenton

Thanks 🤗

Cool! Thanks for the heads-up - I’ll certainly take a look.

Thanks. It’s a very nicely designed kit and suitable for a novice (this was my first brass loco kit).

Thanks! It’s O-gauge - hand-built using Intentio laser-cut plywood sleepers and Exactoscale ABS chairs & fishplates.

@@springmillstreet that’s neat, it really looks amazing.

dagryffyn hobby Thanks again. As this was a test-bed, I was experimenting with products and techniques. The hardest part was finding a rusty rail colour that looked realistic - I must’ve tried 5 different variants of proprietary reddish-brown colours before I realised it wasn’t a single colour that was needed but lots of variation - a mixed palette with one brush to apply and blend at the same time.

@@springmillstreet you did a really nice job. It makes me want to weather my track, not that three rail o gauge will look realistic, but it would look better.