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Thank You. Glad it made sense :)

Thank you so much for commenting! I am glad the video gave you some ideas and will save you from losing your tools set.

Thanks for the info - I will try that, I am still learning and have done 5 welds for some posts, that came out OKish, but I really want to get better. Thanks again!!

Thank you so much, I am so glad that this video helped you out.

Nope you are the first

@@LarsWorkShop I just ordered an elite Foreman, but I've been CNC machining and manual machining for a while. Started with a mini lathe in 2006 and a Taig later the same year. Made it a business in 2010 and went full time in 2016. Most of my machines have a twist release estop. I had to walk out in the shop and look. Everything under power that has an e-stop has a twist release. Even the pendants that have an e-stop switch. I think I have seen e-stops that are straight pull, but at the moment I can't picture one in my head. I've wanted something for "sheet" goods for a while and the Onefinity seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Not the cheapest and built around a control I might consider for other machines. In fact I am thinking about the Masso G3 Touch for an old Bridgeport I am retrofitting. If I like it I may swap my Hurco over to it as well. I've been watching a lot of owner videos, and the one thing I am not seeing is much machining. There is some of course, but it seems like everybody has intro, setup, and the basics videos. The Onefinity is more a "toy" for me. It doesn't fit into my current business model and product lines, but you never know what will happen in the future. I figured my big lathe was just for repair work, but I wound up using it more often for actual customer products. Another middle weight mill I bought was intended for only roughing blanks, but instead it runs direct customer jobs several times a week as well. Anyway, I enjoyed your video. Lots of useful basics. Very useful for a beginner, and not without merit for a more experienced "maker" like myself either. Thanks for putting it out.

Oh, just saw I was replying under one of my other accounts. Its still Bob here.

Bob, Thanks for the comment!! A Bridgeport, wow, I have not used one of those in a while. I would love to have a CNC bridgeport, I have a lot of people ask as soon as I say CNC, "Can you do metal?" Another tool I would love to have is a CNC plasma cutter. :)

No worries - I have do it before too Bob

Glad it was helpful! Keep the link as a reference. :)

Glad you think so!

Is there a better way to do this in fusion?

@@LarsWorkShop Not that I know of, I really hate the text tool in fusion on a lot of different levels, I got spoiled using coreldraw which I purchased years ago.

Darn, I wish you knew a better way. My wife always tells me Crickit and XCS and a few other tools she uses for laser work can do it really easy.

Yes. Just need to save it to something like tslot.nc. Run a test on something, get the x, y and z set. then just line up where you want your x,y on your sign and and reprobe the z and you will be good.

Jim, I had accidentally hit that and saw the screen change, took me a minute to figure it out, due to the lack of documentation. I think the centering feature mght be good if I ever do an inlay in a tray.

Good to know. Is bit number 1 special for VCarve?

@@LarsWorkShop For Onefinity bit #1 is designated for the Air Carving. I don't know if it means something in Vcarve Pro.

What model do you have, and what version of the masso? I think that Onefinity Elite on the masso g3 uses tool #0 for the dry run. Check this link forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/dry-run-and-tool-zero-on-the-elite-masso-faq/20292

Glad it helped you out!

Great to hear!

I have a couple of ideas, let me look into it before responding.

Thanks for the input. I totally understand about the lack of docs. I am working on the next video for f3 f4 f6 ad f2. That will have a lot more information.

@@LarsWorkShop Can't wait to see the whole series. Thanks for doing this work.

Thanks Charles! I am so glad you are up and running again :)

this one is, it is a ball bearning motor instead of a sleeve bearing. www.amazon.com/Wathai-60mm-Brushless-Replacement-Cooling/dp/B0BYYWWLPT/ref=sr_1_4?amp=undefined&sr=8-4

I still like my water cooled - I do not know how the air cooled performs in comparison, either way I think you will really like the spindle, they are really quiet. :)

Nice idea about the filter I have prder my flow wheel\

I am going to run distilled until winter, give a good flush, back to antifreeze until spring. It is good to know I am not the only one 😁

Glad it helped you out!

Indeed 17 cu yards. 80 tons of gravel.

Where is the led flashing? On a masso g3? Are you talking about the emergency stop? On the masso when it boots, you need to press and release the emergency y stop. Then double tap the home button.

I agree, the video is showing how the two masso coordinates work with each other.

I have never heard of the stiffy effecting the tramming. But if it does you may need to shim the z axis.

@@LarsWorkShop have you checked tram? One thing you don't do is use a shim the machine has adjustments apparently you've not got that far and can't answer my question but ty

I have checked the tram on my machine and it is dead on. I was offering a option of using a shim fornthe z axis because that is what we do for cnc and regular milling machines for metal shops. If you cannot get it trimmed with the stiffy, you may need to call 1F and ask the. What to do.

Try starting up the PC and the F1 before you start XCS and connect them.

@@LarsWorkShop , didn't work. Same issue.

What version of windows?

Yup. This is one reason I have not upgraded. I still have the issue if power fails it could drop and bust a bit. But spindles are heavy. 😆

Thanks!

I am glad the video gave you some ideas

Thanks for the information.

I think the plugs was the issue, now when it gets hot it does not start until it cools off. :) I think I need a new starter.

Always

Did you select the Surface? Check this link, it might help you out forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-support/non-uniform-scale-missing/m-p/9331493#M79484

​@LarsWorkShop all I get are entities and point options in the scale modification. Bizarre

@@Evansthoughts Did you select the surface?

@@LarsWorkShop I think my issue is that I work in 2d (plasma cutting). There is no surface or bodies when I'm creating my cut files. I'll try to create a 3D rendering like you are, to see if I can pull it off. Thanks for the responses.

you could try creating a sketch for your stock and explode it, then put a sketch on the top of that for your text. when you get into the manufacture area, just mark the top of the stock as your WCS for the Setup. Somethis to test out at least.

Check out this video it is how to make a lantern and has all the steps. First 15 minutes has all of the info you should need. th-cam.com/video/-IL2XPsQKEE/w-d-xo.html

​@@LarsWorkShop Thanks. Shortly after I posted this question, I figured it out. All you have to do is save the project (.art file) and then go to Save Toolpath. Give the toolpath a name and save it as a Gcode file (.Tap) I tried that the first time, but assumed it would default to Gcode but it didn't. Once I selected Gcode from a lengthy list, it defaulted to Gcode the next time I saved a tool path. I'm learning. LOL

Awesome.

Great to hear!

Thanks!

😆 🤣 I did!! I did!! 😆 🤣 😂

I had zero issues with my VFD and spindle. Do you have a multi meter? If so make sure the outlet has correct power. The prong with the little hook on it, should be on the top, is the ground. You should get 120v if you measure from it to the other holes. Of you connect the other hole you should see 240. From there make sure the plug is in and turned to the right, so it is locked iin and the plug on the VFD is all the way in. Right about the plung on the VFD, really small is the on switch. Click it to on or 1. If you did not see it light up, on the from the little knob controller. On the sides where the slots are squeeze and pull that out. Now put it back in until it clicks. If it lit up on the left side switch to manual and turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, make sure the spindle is off the wasteboard no bit and press the green button. Now turn the knob it should start the spindle. If it does press the red button and set back to automatic on the left side. If this works your pindle is good.

If you are still having issues, email me. I live in Ohio, check my video on electrical to see if the electrician did the same thing. th-cam.com/video/jc8n60ygLDA/w-d-xo.html

I just watched the video you posted. Since this is your second one from PwnCNC, I would reach out and see it if works for them, if not ask them to figure out why. If it does, it is surely the electrical and I think we can work through it, just need to see a pic of the box "cicuit breaker" and if you are sure the power is getting to the plug, I would unplug the VFD unit and see if the power there is correct, as in the ground to each of the power holes give you 120 and across the power holes you get 240v. let me know what you see.

@@LarsWorkShop That's the first thing that I did. With the twist-lock connector that my electrician installed and the power cord for the VFD locked to that, I unplugged the other end from the VFD. I have 120V from the ground to each leg, so I know it's getting power to the plug. I feel like a total idiot, it should not be so hard. I tried numerous times to FIRMLY attach the plug to the VFD with no success. I forced it so hard that the outlet broke free from the enclosure and pushed into the enclosure. I just got home from work and I'm exhausted. I will get back into it tomorrow morning and will figure this out! Since it's broken anyway, I'm gonna try to get into the enclosure and look around. There is no way that it should be this hard to connect a plug and fire up the unit! I've got to be doing something wrong, but I have no idea what it is.

No not feel like an idiot, we have all been there, just have to work the problem. There may be a fuse in the box. Let me know what you find.

Thank You for your feedback! Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thank you for the comment!! I am so glad the video helped you out.

Thanks for the comment!! The relief is not a faux relief, there is actually dimension that you can feel once the engrave is done.

Welcome to the channel. I have never used a knife on thr masso. But drop that in the group, a hunch of folks have. Thr code should bring it to work z zero. Need to see your code

Hope you enjoy it! I would love to see what you make.

You are most welcome. I have a video on what I did for the electrical, if you want to know what the electrician is going to have to do. Good luck on the setup. Feel free to reach out if you have questions.

When I needed to order a part, they delayed and did not respond within a reasonable period of time to ship it.

I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Happy Lasering!

You are most welcome!

Is your engrave on wood too light or too dark? The dot duration is much like the speed setting. The lower the dot duration the less time it will spend in one spot, the higher the dot duration the longer it will spend on one spot. So on a dark material it will make a lighter engrave and on lighter material it will make a darker engrave. I hope that helps. Happy Lasering!

Thank you. I am happy you enjoyed the video.

My pleasure!

Thanks. Indeed it was I learned that connecting the magnet to a bolt on the left y axis grounded all the way to the spindle from William Tracy @ Terrpin Creations, he has a lot of kewl things on his channel. This does not work with a router though it with a little wiring and maybe a brush.