วีดีโอ

I don't know what this means. - Eric

Hahaha, there is a striking resemblance. Yikes! 😁

Thanks! Yeah, it’s a big milestone!

Thanks! Yeah I’m super excited. 🤨

It’s a bit more time consuming, but it has a few benefits. 1) you can make a fretboard with fairly small scrap pieces of wood 2) it’s more stable to changes in humidity 3) its never going to crack Thanks for watching!

@@zachlefebvre4825 Thanks again!

@@red58impala- No problem! :)

Thanks for the feedback. That video is long gone so we will probably have to do another one when we have a chance.

The jig is only for the neck set-back. The side-to-side (I think that’s what you’re referring to as the yaw?) is done by lining up the centre line on the neck with a centre line on the top. When I place the neck blank on the body I sight down the lines and adjust where necessary.

I am very on board with modern ways of doing things in lutherie, in fact I take many (what some would consider unnecessary) steps to make the guitar more responsive while remaining structurally sound for years to come. My neck joint method is just one example, it takes about two days of work to execute when a simple dovetail neck joint could be done in less than an hour. Why do I do it? Because I personally believe it’s worth it. Me not doing semi-hemispheric fret ends is not out of laziness, it is out of the fact that they are actually making the playable width of your frets (for string bends) narrower instead of the sometimes advertised “extra fret real estate”. With that being said, I can respect that some people such as yourself prefer semi-hemispheric fret ends. So many details and aspects of a guitar are purely subjective.

I can tell you from first hand experience that Zach is not lazy. I would also say, if he believes what he is saying to be true and is giving what he considers to be reasonable reasons, then it is not gaslighting, it is discussion. I am very glad you are happy with your choice to get rid of your old guitars but it is important to remember that you can be happy with that while others still will not like semi-hemis or agree with your opinions. Thanks for commenting. - Eric

Thanks.

It sure has thanks for noticing. We are hoping to be in a place where we can be more consistent with our uploads.

Feel free to turn off the sound and use closed captions if the “music” bothers you too much. That way you can still learn from all the free content based on my years of experience without having to endure the sound of the “music” I chose for the video. 👍🏼

@@zachlefebvre4825 I did., I have skills. My 59 years of making stringed instruments is an advantage.

Cool, it’s a great neck joint and there seems to be more and more variations as time goes on. Glad you’re finding the video helpful! The extension of the block into the neck isn’t super critical if your block fits into the mortise nicely. I haven’t had issues so far but I’ve considered going further into the neck to make sure I’ll never have an issue. As for the heel block extension, I go with 7/8” thick before sanding the top to radius and such. My upper transverse brace matches that height. And that is plenty. 30mm is wayyyy more than you need.

I agree, it’s an aesthetic choice more than anything. They look fantastic!

Yes! 🙌🏻

Thanks! Cool, that’ll be a fun project :) The jig I’m checking the neck angle with basically just has 3 protrusions, one at the bridge location, one at the neck joint and the other (which sticks out about 2mm extra) is at the nut. It helps me dial in the setback of my neck so that my neck projects to the right height at the saddle. Alignment side to side is eyeballed with a centre line on the neck and top. Does that answer your question?

@@zachlefebvre4825 Thanks Zach, all new to me as I've be using a more cumbersome approach with a straight edge and measuring gaps etc. Is there a source where I could find a plan on how to build your alignment/reference jig ?

⁠@@andrewdarnley4608- I don’t know of any plans, but I’ve made a few of these jigs by 1) jointing one edge of a thin board 2) gluing equal sized “nubs” where the nut, neck joint, and saddle go 3) adding a shim to the “nut nub” which is the thickness I want the setback to be.

Great question. I can’t say with 100% certainty, but so far these parts have held up well without any rusting. I like to wipe on Renaissance Wax (a microcrystalline wax) on anything metal I want to inhibit further tarnishing/rusting. It works great and I’d highly recommend it if you’re looking for added protection. It’s commonly used in museums for restoration of metal sculptures.

Haha, well, seeing as I am a guitar maker by profession (have been for 13 years) and have colleagues all over the world that build some of the world’s nicest guitars, yes. I’ve played guitars with “high end frets”. A good fret job with either semi-hemispheric fret ends or standard fret ends will feel good. The claims, though, do not make logical sense - and that’s what I show in this video. If you prefer semi hemispheric fret ends then great! If you prefer standard fret ends then great! I’m sure everyone online would appreciate it if you didn’t make accusations in your comments. Thanks for watching the video and I hope you do get something useful from our channel. ✌🏻

You are were right with that first statement "you don't know" the man. Zach is 100% in the guitar building which is why we started this channel. I am so glad that you have not any issues with rounded fret ends when done right. - Eric

@@redtreecollectiveguitars Everyone is building guitars these days… Many more started playing than ever before, and now it’s going back to where it was. It’s pretty shocking being you have absolutely no idea who I am. It’s shocking that neither of you have played a well made instrument is exactly what I’m saying… If the string is slipping off the board then either you aren’t playing it correctly or it isn’t built correctly… Regards from Nashville TN… Having professionals say the strings will find there why off the board if the ends are rounded is simply ridiculous. It’s something nobody complains about…

@@robertw1871- So who are you? I’d assume that if you were well known you’d have more than 2 subscribers… although you live in Nashville. That must mean you’re a famous musician? 😉 All kidding aside, if you like semi hemispheric frets then great. If you were told that there is more fret real estate on semi hemis or that they are more comfortable because of their rounded ends then you were lied to (possibly unknowingly). I’m sorry if this video made you uncomfortable… and if you believe I am wrong then I can respect that and I can accept that you believe that about me.

@@zachlefebvre4825 I just find it odd to lash out so vigorously over something that zero players I know have ever complained about… I get it though working with stainless is difficult and perfectly finishing the final geometry of those difficult frets is something I’d try and convince my customers they don’t want as well… Trouble is it’s become more and more standard even on inexpensive import guitars. Judging people based on number subscribers is probably not wise, it’s relatively easy to create a couple hundred accounts… Have fun with it…

No, otherwise a straightedge would work. The protrusion that contacts where the bridge goes is the same as the neck joint protrusion, but the one that’s at the nut is 2mm bigger. That means the headstock will be slightly tipped towards the back of the guitar… if that makes sense. This makes the strings at just the right height over the top (about 12mm).

@@zachlefebvre4825 Thank you very much

Hello!! 👋🏻 You’re welcome :) This guitar was my standard scale length, 64.5cm.

@@zachlefebvre4825 Thanks

@@msinger01- no problem at all! :)

Thanks for your concern - we usually do wear masks in addition to our shop dust collection, but it’s not ideal for videos.

Your solution sounds even better! Bushings are the ideal solution if you can get them in there. :)

@@zachlefebvre4825 If you've got a pair of Kelly forceps they make it a lot easier. Check Harbor Freight. I think they have a kit that doesn't cost an arm or a leg, and you can fine hundreds of uses for them. Amazon may also have the kit.

Thanks! 😊

Everything is subjective! If you find them more comfortable than standard fret ends then stick with those - likely your frets don’t go quite to the edge of your fretboard or they are more rounded on the top of the fret end, which is fine if it doesn’t cause issues with strings falling off the edge with string bends. As a musician that has toured across North America numerous times with a few different bands I, personally, have always stuck with the standard fret ends and prefer them.

Why are you assigning "lazy" to non rounded fret ends? This discussion is supposed to be about the difference when both are done well by people with experience. I am so happy for you that you are pleased with your choice of fret ends despite its shortcomings. - Eric

@@redtreecollectiveguitars because the main reason why builders/luthiers don't make the semi-hemispherical ends is time and complexity, in other words - work more, make less.

@@vitaliistep- Did you watch the video? This doesn’t have to do with why or why not luthiers do semi hemispheric fret ends. This video is dispelling the myths about semi hemispheric fret ends. Would I do them if the myths were actually true? Definitely! Would I be able to do them? Abso-frickin’-lutely I would! I know quite a few world-renowned luthiers that do semi hemispheric fret ends on all their guitars but say that they aren’t actually better despite that. The reasons stating that semi-hemi is BETTER are a marketing gimmick, pure and simple. And that is what the video is about. You are free to believe that they are better or feel better to you, I can’t tell you how to feel or what to believe.

@@zachlefebvre4825 use whatever you like, but how is it a gimmick, if I easily feel the noticeable difference for the better with the neck in my left hand? Also the semi-hemispherical ends usually done with filed tang on the fret ends, which is undeniable plus too. The fret sprout is a common problem on most guitars with regular fret ends.

Glad to hear it’s inspiring you to try new things!!

As Zach explains there would still be less real estate. He also mentions why it is unlikely to be right at the end and some benefits of that. He is not saying that people should not do them or buy guitars with them. The point of this video is to show that claims of it being a superior method of fret ending is false. It is another option with benefits and short comings. Thanks for commenting. - Eric

Do you mean the soundport on the upper bout, bass side? It’s basically just a small port for sound to go towards the player. It’s reinforced on the inside, but the rest of the sides are single-ply, standard solid wood guitar sides.

At 4:45 in the video the sides don’t look single ply. I’ve never seen anything like that before. It looks really thick, but hollow.

I think what you might be looking at is the kerfing. Here is a video that Zach did on his treehouse account before we started this one. th-cam.com/video/tkXNLBQowGg/w-d-xo.html - Eric

If you go to 4:45 there is something more going on. I see the kerfing, but that looks like a double wall on the sides. You can only see the kerfing from the top. If the sides were single ply, you’d see the sides of the kerfing, which you don’t.

@@thomastedder- Yeah, good observation. That particular guitar (and a few others I’ve made in the past) had structured sides. Meaning the kerfing basically goes the full width of the side. Quite a few guitar makers are using this method now, but I moved away from it because I felt it didn’t work so well in my guitars, particularly in how it affected bass response. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Hopefully that image didn’t make things confusing! If you have any questions let me know and I’ll do my best to answer them. :)

I’m pretty sure my tenons are 3/4” wide, but that’s mainly because my heels are quite narrow. With a 3/8” rod down the heel anchoring the neck that technically only leaves 3/16” of continuous grain on either side of the rod… it’s a bit hard to explain, but if my tenon was 3/8” wide and my rod down the heel is 3/8” wide, then my neck could very easily break away leaving the bolt and tenon behind. Does that make sense? Anyway, a wider tenon would actually be better - the wider you can make it within your heel the better.

Hi - thanks for the detailed reply - I really appreciate it - that does make perfect sense. I mocked one up out of the template I have and it was fine. I have to say though - you make it look easy and it definately isnt @@redtreecollectiveguitars

@@hereasafanofallsorts5164 You're welcome :) Haha, sorry! I suppose I've made a number of jigs this way now so it has become easier for me. -Zach

That very well could be true, but based of the definition of two end types the argument would still stand. Obviously there are going to be a whole variety of ways and qualities of both types of fret ends. This video is trying to just challenge the thinking that by definition semi-hemis are superior. Thanks for your comment. - Eric

Great question - I just carefully score the acrylic with an x-acto knife then drill out most of the material and file/sand up to my scored lines. I use calipers to bring the cutouts in my templates to the dimensions I want. So I really don’t do it in any fancy way, just carefully by hand. A CNC would make quick work of an accurate acrylic routing guide! :) -Zach

@redtreecollectiveguitars Hi , Thanks for the reply . That's great to know - a CNC would be marvellous for all sorts, but it's reassuring to know that it's not mandatory and that there is no need to spend a fortune on shop bought templates - your work is amazing and I love that it's CNC free - I'm building my first guitar atm so your videos are a huge help - thanks again

I’m glad you’re getting something out of our videos! :) Definitely no need for a CNC machine to make accurate jigs. Just careful attention to detail!

Hi - Can I ask you one more question ? I see people all over TH-cam with neck angle jigs for routing the neck angle in the tenon and shoulders of the neck where it meets the body - am I correct in saying that with your method of routing the tenon - where the tenon routing template is screwed to the end of the tenon - it does away with the need for a jig altogether as you are routing off of the angle of the end of the tenon and therefore routing the correct angle in the shoulders also - it seems so simple and effective and yet people go to all this trouble of assembling a giant jig to achieve the same outcome - am I missing something ?@@redtreecollectiveguitars

@@hereasafanofallsorts5164- Haha, yes you are correct! No big jig necessary. The correct angle is achieved before routing the tenon therefore a parallel rout gives you the same angle and usually perfect heel cheeks. I’m not sure why this isn’t the norm in the industry honestly - it only makes sense. -Z

Thanks! So far it is not available anywhere - I may get some made to sell though. Keep an eye on my TreeHouse Guitars instagram/Facebook page. :)

Yesss, great tip. I have been doing the same for the last couple years. I found if you still have thickness sander lines on your top the fibres don’t get pulled up with the tape, but I usually don’t at that point. Shellac works great for this 🙌🏻

Hola Javier! Lamentablemente esta herramienta no se vende en ningún lado. Es una herramienta que diseñé y mandé hacer a medida. Estoy considerando fabricar algunos para vender, pero eso aún no ha sucedido. -Zach

Umm. Great! The sunburst wouldn’t affect the sound though.

In my opinion it sounds great, as is the case with all of Zach's guitars. If you want to hear it he does a demonstration on his treehouse gutiars channel. th-cam.com/video/LXyFhP1kzlI/w-d-xo.html . Thanks for asking. - Eric

I think that it is pretty hard to find full time guitar builders that are lazy. If one is lazy there are much easier ways to make a living. So with that not being a part of the discussion then maybe Zach has actually made some points that are worth discussing. I am glad that you like the semi - hemi, enjoy. - Eric

Thanks! And you’re welcome. :)

Thanks so much for that. - Eric

Hahaha right? Who cares really…

Thanks! I believe so! :)

It’s floating above the top - so is the fingerboard. Yeah you’re right, any added mass to the top is going to affect the sound in a (most often) negative way.

You’re welcome! And thanks!

I also like to forget to do it until it's glued on. I will try to not do this going forward.

Hahaha, how do you think I came up with this method? ;) Been there… felt that way.

Yes! There have been so many times that I have almost done that! 🤦🏻

Haha thanks so much! I wish I could take credit for all of this, but I am merely the one responsible for putting together all the different ideas that I’ve learned from my colleagues over the years. :)

Nice, sounds like it has the perfect physical properties for a fingerboard. :) I’ve never worked with it so I wouldn’t know, but I’ve heard similar things from other luthiers as well.

There are many ways to make a great guitar - this is one of them. I used to do a dovetail neck joint and got quite good and efficient at it, but it has its flaws. It does not support the upper bout of the guitar very well so the guitar’s geometry changes much more over time than with a neck joint like this. Also once the geometry changes, it is a time-intensive and expensive job to readjust the neck angle to correct the changes in geometry. I am certainly not against dovetail neck joints, but after using several neck joint methods, I much prefer this type of neck joint for many reasons - and I believe it is much more difficult to execute than a simple dovetail. 🤷🏻‍♂️

So @tribestribes2555 are you suggesting we should leave the neck to it's own devices because it's metal and not a string or tuner?

Clown, you should be legally obligated to finish your statement with a great big DUHU.

Thanks so much! Glad you found the videos helpful. :)

Aha, yes I’ve had that happen once. It was in my first workshop and my humidity wasn’t as well controlled at it should have been. It happens when the environment the back is in is humid. So the wood is swelled up with that extra bit of moisture - then you glue the 15’ radiused braces on and as a result they try to hold the back at it’s swollen width… but the back wants to shrink and return back to a lower humidity so it is forced to only shrink on the outside surface opposite the bracing. This actually works very similarly to a truss rod. The only solution I know of is to rout off the back, knock off the braces and reglue new ones at a drier humidity. Then you’d likely have to add a couple purfling strips to clean things up. As a general rule I try to brace my backs, carve the braces and get it glued onto the sides within a day or two to make this less likely to happen. Hope that answers your question! It sucks to see a back go concave…😞

Haha, I appreciate your honesty! I agree, kindof a gimmick.

Yeah I’ve had to do what you mentioned a few times now. I rough shape the heel then hollow out some of the wood between the edges of the heel and the tenon so flossing works more effectively, then put the two bolts in loosely and floss. Tightening the bolts every now and then to check your alignment. Once it’s bang on then move on to routing for the extension pocket. 👍🏼

Perfect, thx!

No problem! :)