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I'm in Missouri, USA. On average, temps range from 100F+ to -10F.

Where your bees come from makes a big difference. I've heard this a lot from people who buy packages (normally from Southern climates) and install them in hives in colder zones. Locally caught swarms can be a better source for locally acclimated, resilient bees. I know I'm making some assumptions about the source of your bees so this may or may not be applicable for you.

LOL - I've never been a news reporter or a narrator for educational TV, although some have suggested radio or voiceover work. Some have told me they find my voice soothing - I hope that's not just another way of saying my videos put them to sleep. 😆

Thank you for your comment. No matter what direction you take in your beekeeping, I take it as a complement for a "closed mind" to become more open to other ideas. I'll respond to your questions as best as I can: As for the airflow, bees do a masterful job of ventilating their space. Thomas Seeley has found, in his research, that honeybees in the wild prefer an enclosed cavity with a single, relatively small, low entrance. In the first chapter of his newest book, "Piping Hot Bees & Boisterous Buzz-Runners", he addresses the question of how bees avoid asphyxiating due to carbon dioxide buildup in such a space. In the Layens hives, because the bees are typically allowed to build comb more naturally, the comb can be subject to collapse if new, soft, comb - heavy with honey - gets overheated. I already prefer hives with insulated walls, but to help with the summer heat and solar heating I've also started adding 3 inches of insulation to my lids, as I describe in this video: th-cam.com/video/OqNxQ6WmOSM/w-d-xo.html. I've found this to be beneficial for moderating hive heat in the summer as well as helping to retain heat in the winter. The only time moisture in a hive is a concern is if moisture condenses above the bees during winter (depending on your winter temps) and that condensation drips down and chills the winter cluster. Condensation will occur on the surfaces with the greatest heat transfer, so with the lid insulated (or a pillow on top of the frames) during winter, that condensation on the top is unlikely. Condensation anywhere else provides water that the bees will need, particularly going into spring. I've had only a couple colonies that came close to running out of space in a 20 frame hive. Some have addressed this with larger hives, like 25 frames. But it's also a simple matter to harvest full honey frames, replacing them with empty frames, to provide space. Regardless of how you proceed with your beekeeping journey, I wish you well. Thanks for watching.

Thankfully they weren't tested; it seems the bears moved on in another direction (if the initial bear reports were reliable).

Thank you! Next year we'll be doing a 10x20 setup at each event so it'll be a little less crowded in the booth.

@@SuburbanSodbuster awesome

Any relocation is best done in the Spring so the bees have the advantage of the nectar flow to build up their new hive.

I've built most of my hives, using plans from Dr. Leo's website (horizontalhive.com) for my insulated 20 frame hives. I currently re-sell Dr. Leo's insulated hives, but am working on my own design with some modifications. I'm hoping to make an announcement about this by next spring. Watch here, on my facebook page and/or my website (suburbansodbuster.com) for news.

I have a question that might seem to be odd, but you say you're in SW Missouri and I'm curious. Please reply in an e-mail to contact@suburbansodbuster.com: Where are you generally located in that part of the state and about how far off I-44? I have a reason for asking which I'll share in e-mail, if you choose to respond.

Yes, I put the feeders on the opposite side of the follower board from the frames, with a gap below the follower board. The bees have never seemed to have a problem finding the feeder there and there's less chance for the bees to build comb on the feeder. As for the slit entrance on the board, I had to go back and watch that portion of the video to see what you meant. I see what looks like a slit entrance on the board but, for the life of me, I don't recall what that is. It might be some sort of mark or defect on the plywood but I don't actually have a slit cut through the board. The next time I'm into those hives I'll have to check that board to see what it actually is.

The brood frames, on which they'll over-winter, should have a band of honey across the top. Here in Missouri I look for at least 3"; farther north more may be needed. Besides that I leave 2 full frames of honey, one (or the equivalent) on each end of the brood frames. If you're keeping bees that are locally acclimated to your area, and you have a typical year for nectar (no severe drought, etc.) the bees should store up adequate winter resources on their own - otherwise they may need fall feeding. When I saw Dr. Leo demonstrate this I though it was too easy but it's worked well for me every year. In an insulated hive, particularly, it can be remarkable how little of their winter honey gets used up. If you're nervous about leaving just 2 honey frames besides what's on the brood frames, it doesn't hurt to leave a little extra over winter.

The interior of the Layens frames are 12" wide by 14-1/2" deep (305mm x 368mm)

Thank you for sharing! I hope you both have success: him with his garden and you with your hives.

@@paulwyleciol3459 "bagfast"? I have no idea what you're saying.

@@DarrenHughes-Hybrid I agree, but after several minutes with the frame in one hand and camera in the other I concluded it was going to take a while and went on with the inspection.

Thanks for sharing! It seems to be a common pattern that absconding often follows treatment. I think that letting the bees live more naturally is better for them and easier on us.

It dies.

During the nectar gathering season, honeybees live about 45 days so "old" is relative. While they start out their life fuzzy and light in color, often with distinct yellow bands, by the end of their life much of their "hair" has worn off and the bees will be mostly dark in color. Their wings will also look tattered and ragged. They often die outside of the hive, but if they die inside then an "undertaker" bee will carry them out of the hive and away.

@@GregZimdahl Clever, very clever.

Only females might get old. Themale bees end up being kicked from the hive because other then breeding with the queen they useless and just a mouth to feed. Bees are so interesting

Sac brood is not as dreaded or persistent as some other diseases, like American Foul Brood, and is generally not a problem for strong, healthy colonies. It spreads most readily when colonies are stressed or weak, as this colony had been. As I recall, I froze the frames, then set them out for the other bees to clean out. Obviously, not every beekeeper would recommend this approach. This colony that died out came from a conventional (treated) apiary while the rest of my hives at this time were from feral sources. I didn't see any spread of the issues to the other hives. I also wouldn't have any concern about melting down the comb for the wax.

Testify! 🙌

I have a page listing some of the vacuum parts in the shop on my website: suburbansodbuster.com/product-category/equipment/bee-vacuum-parts-supplies/ Each product page has a link to buy the product on Amazon.

I don't feed at all over winter. If locally acclimated bees are kept, they'll be in sync with the local nectar flow and climate and will store adequate resources for winter. The deep frames of the Layens hive give enough space for the bees to store these resources. When I saw Dr. Leo demonstrate winterizing the hive I thought it couldn't be that easy, but I've learned that the bees really do "know" how to prepare their hive. If it does become necessary to feed a hive due to some exceptional situations, such as an extended drought during the normal nectar flow, then what I commonly use are frame feeders. But I haven't had need to feed any of my hives this year or last.

@@SuburbanSodbuster Where are you located & do you extract the honey or leave it for the bees?

I'm in Missouri; our temps generally range from summer highs of 100F to winter lows of -10F. To prepare for winter and dearth periods, the honey at the top of the brood frames + 2 full honey frames is adequate so we harvest the surplus.

No, I haven't used packaged bees. Instead, I prefer to keep bees acclimated to our local nectar flow and climate. I source these primarily from swarm catches, cut-outs or trap-outs. Having bees that function in sync with the nectar flow, increasing and decreasing brood appropriately, as well as storing adequately for winter, makes it easier on the keeper. As for the frames, my preference is for wired frames that can be used in an extractor. I do prefer to use only 2-3/4" of wax foundation as a starter strip, rather than full sheets of foundation, and let the bees build the rest out as natural comb. This year I tried using some craft sticks as a starter but the bees seem to be reluctant to build on it. Next year I think I might cut those down to 1/2 width or less, just to give the bees a ridge to guide the comb.

I'm guessing that what you mean by building a "Layens hive" is a horizontal hive, but using Langstroth frames. Yes, people do build "long Langstroth" hives - horizontal hives for deep Langstroth frames. The Layens frames are a different dimension, though, and I prefer the deeper Layens frames because they provide ample space for the bees to naturally store adequate resources for winter - something that can be more of a challenge on 9" deep Langstroth frames.