First year Bee manager. I Built 2 Long Langstroth Hives in spring. My most recent inspection showed that 1 hive had 7 full frames of brood and the other one had 8 full frames. Consistent with what you explained in your video. Hope this helps. Thanks for your videos. They have helped me alot.
Those Layens frames are magnificent in their brood/ storage capacity. I built several that size to catch a swarm or two one spring, but no swarms were to be had, so I sold 35 frames to another beek who was glad to get them. I had to move so I didn't have any use for my hive body either. Gave it to same fellow for a gallon of honey.
I don't use a queen excluder on any of my 14 colonies, most of which are in 2-colony Supers-to-the-Side horizontal hives. Rather, I've found - as you pointed out - the queens stay on the brood side of their colony's 'honey bridge' (the first full frame of honey made). It's also typical for all of my first frames to contain mostly resources, while frames 2-5 are mixed brood and resources, and the rest (the farthest from the entrance) all honey - also as you pointed out. If you haven't seen one yet, Supers-to-the-Side hives use big, beautiful 19" wide x 16" deep brood frames and standard deep & medium Langstroth frames for honey harvesting. Designed by a NC veterinarian for beeks who want to go horizontal after investing in lots of Langstroth equipment, they give bees bigger brood frames than long Langs and topbar hives. The hives are also insulated against heat & cold extremes, and they have some cool perks for beekeepers (like see-through inner covers). Two recent YT vids came out about them, and they can be found by searching for 'Supers to the side horizontal hive.' Video 1 describes the hive and it includes 20 months of data from real world experience, and video 2 includes plans for building one. I'm going to build two or three more in January...
Great subject that many seem misinformed in. Still relatively new... 5th yr. Here in central New Hampshire, I found colonies wintered well on 8 Layens frames, 1-2 frames of resources on the ends and 4- 6 frames of brood nest, although I have successfully wintered over several small colonies in 6 frame boxes with 5 frames of bees and a frame feeder. Some colonies expanded beyond the # 10 frame but I suspect that it was because the frames were not completely laid to the bottom. Frames located farther that that from the entrance almost never have brood in them. Thanks Montie, take care, Brice
Thank you for this informative video. I am new to this and think of myself as a “bee host” rather than keeper as I the bees continue to reinforce that they know what they are doing and need very little from me! I am using two insulated Layens hives here in SW Missouri and on last inspection I suspect I will be harvesting some honey next month. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience!
I have a question that might seem to be odd, but you say you're in SW Missouri and I'm curious. Please reply in an e-mail to contact@suburbansodbuster.com: Where are you generally located in that part of the state and about how far off I-44? I have a reason for asking which I'll share in e-mail, if you choose to respond.
Colonies look good looks like yours are making some honey. I found for the last 2 years my larger established colonies take up about 12 frames from open to end of brood frame. I had one that used 14 frames about 3/4 slab on each at all times this year was a very strong 20 frame colony but still not a lot of honey from them by my estimate from last inspection.
Don't know much about Layens system, but with a Langstroth, a QE is only necessary for a couple weeks during a good flow. After that, the queen will find no more room in the upper supers as they will be starting to get filled.
Hello, I just finished watching one of your older videos about the layens hive I came in with a pretty closed mind, but after watching the video, it is actually changing my mind, starting to love the idea of how you dont have to disturb all the bees at once, But I do have some concerns. I live in australia, and I had a concern about the airflow. Would it get too hot? Especially in harsher sunny days, and would it get "Too Humid" And another concerns is, what happens if a hive is extremely strong and outgrows the hive? Other than that, im really interested in a layens setup
Thank you for your comment. No matter what direction you take in your beekeeping, I take it as a complement for a "closed mind" to become more open to other ideas. I'll respond to your questions as best as I can: As for the airflow, bees do a masterful job of ventilating their space. Thomas Seeley has found, in his research, that honeybees in the wild prefer an enclosed cavity with a single, relatively small, low entrance. In the first chapter of his newest book, "Piping Hot Bees & Boisterous Buzz-Runners", he addresses the question of how bees avoid asphyxiating due to carbon dioxide buildup in such a space. In the Layens hives, because the bees are typically allowed to build comb more naturally, the comb can be subject to collapse if new, soft, comb - heavy with honey - gets overheated. I already prefer hives with insulated walls, but to help with the summer heat and solar heating I've also started adding 3 inches of insulation to my lids, as I describe in this video: th-cam.com/video/OqNxQ6WmOSM/w-d-xo.html. I've found this to be beneficial for moderating hive heat in the summer as well as helping to retain heat in the winter. The only time moisture in a hive is a concern is if moisture condenses above the bees during winter (depending on your winter temps) and that condensation drips down and chills the winter cluster. Condensation will occur on the surfaces with the greatest heat transfer, so with the lid insulated (or a pillow on top of the frames) during winter, that condensation on the top is unlikely. Condensation anywhere else provides water that the bees will need, particularly going into spring. I've had only a couple colonies that came close to running out of space in a 20 frame hive. Some have addressed this with larger hives, like 25 frames. But it's also a simple matter to harvest full honey frames, replacing them with empty frames, to provide space. Regardless of how you proceed with your beekeeping journey, I wish you well. Thanks for watching.
First time bee keeper here with 4 Layers hives. How do you know how much honey you can harvest before winter? I've always been concerned that I'll take too much and starve the bees.
The brood frames, on which they'll over-winter, should have a band of honey across the top. Here in Missouri I look for at least 3"; farther north more may be needed. Besides that I leave 2 full frames of honey, one (or the equivalent) on each end of the brood frames. If you're keeping bees that are locally acclimated to your area, and you have a typical year for nectar (no severe drought, etc.) the bees should store up adequate winter resources on their own - otherwise they may need fall feeding. When I saw Dr. Leo demonstrate this I though it was too easy but it's worked well for me every year. In an insulated hive, particularly, it can be remarkable how little of their winter honey gets used up. If you're nervous about leaving just 2 honey frames besides what's on the brood frames, it doesn't hurt to leave a little extra over winter.
![How to tell when your Flow Hive is ready to harvest 🍯🐝🌻[LIVE]](/img/n.gif)
Good followup to that basic compare and contrast video on the two types. Great video!
First year Bee manager. I Built 2 Long Langstroth Hives in spring. My most recent inspection showed that 1 hive had 7 full frames of brood and the other one had 8 full frames. Consistent with what you explained in your video. Hope this helps. Thanks for your videos. They have helped me alot.
Those Layens frames are magnificent in their brood/ storage capacity. I built several that size to catch a swarm or two one spring, but no swarms were to be had, so I sold 35 frames to another beek who was glad to get them. I had to move so I didn't have any use for my hive body either. Gave it to same fellow for a gallon of honey.
I don't use a queen excluder on any of my 14 colonies, most of which are in 2-colony Supers-to-the-Side horizontal hives. Rather, I've found - as you pointed out - the queens stay on the brood side of their colony's 'honey bridge' (the first full frame of honey made). It's also typical for all of my first frames to contain mostly resources, while frames 2-5 are mixed brood and resources, and the rest (the farthest from the entrance) all honey - also as you pointed out.
If you haven't seen one yet, Supers-to-the-Side hives use big, beautiful 19" wide x 16" deep brood frames and standard deep & medium Langstroth frames for honey harvesting. Designed by a NC veterinarian for beeks who want to go horizontal after investing in lots of Langstroth equipment, they give bees bigger brood frames than long Langs and topbar hives. The hives are also insulated against heat & cold extremes, and they have some cool perks for beekeepers (like see-through inner covers). Two recent YT vids came out about them, and they can be found by searching for 'Supers to the side horizontal hive.' Video 1 describes the hive and it includes 20 months of data from real world experience, and video 2 includes plans for building one. I'm going to build two or three more in January...
Great subject that many seem misinformed in. Still relatively new... 5th yr. Here in central New Hampshire, I found colonies wintered well on 8 Layens frames, 1-2 frames of resources on the ends and 4- 6 frames of brood nest, although I have successfully wintered over several small colonies in 6 frame boxes with 5 frames of bees and a frame feeder. Some colonies expanded beyond the # 10 frame but I suspect that it was because the frames were not completely laid to the bottom. Frames located farther that that from the entrance almost never have brood in them. Thanks Montie, take care, Brice
Thank you for this informative video. I am new to this and think of myself as a “bee host” rather than keeper as I the bees continue to reinforce that they know what they are doing and need very little from me! I am using two insulated Layens hives here in SW Missouri and on last inspection I suspect I will be harvesting some honey next month. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience!
I have a question that might seem to be odd, but you say you're in SW Missouri and I'm curious. Please reply in an e-mail to contact@suburbansodbuster.com: Where are you generally located in that part of the state and about how far off I-44? I have a reason for asking which I'll share in e-mail, if you choose to respond.
Very well explained again. Thank you Sir.
Colonies look good looks like yours are making some honey. I found for the last 2 years my larger established colonies take up about 12 frames from open to end of brood frame. I had one that used 14 frames about 3/4 slab on each at all times this year was a very strong 20 frame colony but still not a lot of honey from them by my estimate from last inspection.
Great video. Thanks
Don't know much about Layens system, but with a Langstroth, a QE is only necessary for a couple weeks during a good flow. After that, the queen will find no more room in the upper supers as they will be starting to get filled.
Hello, I just finished watching one of your older videos about the layens hive
I came in with a pretty closed mind, but after watching the video, it is actually changing my mind, starting to love the idea of how you dont have to disturb all the bees at once, But I do have some concerns.
I live in australia, and I had a concern about the airflow. Would it get too hot? Especially in harsher sunny days, and would it get "Too Humid"
And another concerns is, what happens if a hive is extremely strong and outgrows the hive?
Other than that, im really interested in a layens setup
Thank you for your comment. No matter what direction you take in your beekeeping, I take it as a complement for a "closed mind" to become more open to other ideas. I'll respond to your questions as best as I can:
As for the airflow, bees do a masterful job of ventilating their space. Thomas Seeley has found, in his research, that honeybees in the wild prefer an enclosed cavity with a single, relatively small, low entrance. In the first chapter of his newest book, "Piping Hot Bees & Boisterous Buzz-Runners", he addresses the question of how bees avoid asphyxiating due to carbon dioxide buildup in such a space.
In the Layens hives, because the bees are typically allowed to build comb more naturally, the comb can be subject to collapse if new, soft, comb - heavy with honey - gets overheated. I already prefer hives with insulated walls, but to help with the summer heat and solar heating I've also started adding 3 inches of insulation to my lids, as I describe in this video: th-cam.com/video/OqNxQ6WmOSM/w-d-xo.html. I've found this to be beneficial for moderating hive heat in the summer as well as helping to retain heat in the winter.
The only time moisture in a hive is a concern is if moisture condenses above the bees during winter (depending on your winter temps) and that condensation drips down and chills the winter cluster. Condensation will occur on the surfaces with the greatest heat transfer, so with the lid insulated (or a pillow on top of the frames) during winter, that condensation on the top is unlikely. Condensation anywhere else provides water that the bees will need, particularly going into spring.
I've had only a couple colonies that came close to running out of space in a 20 frame hive. Some have addressed this with larger hives, like 25 frames. But it's also a simple matter to harvest full honey frames, replacing them with empty frames, to provide space.
Regardless of how you proceed with your beekeeping journey, I wish you well. Thanks for watching.
im curious if the colonies where the queen wanders are younger or older
I watch your channel quite a bit.
My question is, how large are your frames, they? What is the dimension of them
The interior of the Layens frames are 12" wide by 14-1/2" deep (305mm x 368mm)
First time bee keeper here with 4 Layers hives. How do you know how much honey you can harvest before winter? I've always been concerned that I'll take too much and starve the bees.
The brood frames, on which they'll over-winter, should have a band of honey across the top. Here in Missouri I look for at least 3"; farther north more may be needed. Besides that I leave 2 full frames of honey, one (or the equivalent) on each end of the brood frames. If you're keeping bees that are locally acclimated to your area, and you have a typical year for nectar (no severe drought, etc.) the bees should store up adequate winter resources on their own - otherwise they may need fall feeding. When I saw Dr. Leo demonstrate this I though it was too easy but it's worked well for me every year. In an insulated hive, particularly, it can be remarkable how little of their winter honey gets used up. If you're nervous about leaving just 2 honey frames besides what's on the brood frames, it doesn't hurt to leave a little extra over winter.