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Laser Noob
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2011
Come along on our laser and 3D adventures!
Reviewing the HEXAGON Filament Splicer
Today I will be reviewing the filament splicer by Hexagon. I like the unit overall, but there are some small issues. My rating is a 7/10. #Filament #K1C #creality #3dPrinting #K1Max
Music licensed from bensound.com : Certificate # 2204941
HEXAGON SPLICER - amzn.to/3Z2IBKA
My website - WWW.PANHANDLELASER.COM
Music licensed from bensound.com : Certificate # 2204941
HEXAGON SPLICER - amzn.to/3Z2IBKA
My website - WWW.PANHANDLELASER.COM
มุมมอง: 750
วีดีโอ
3D Printing Halloween Candy Dish Skulls
มุมมอง 1854 หลายเดือนก่อน
Today we are printing some Skull shaped candy dishes for Halloween. I am using a file I found on Thingiverse.com by JSchulz. I was able to get 7 skulls from each roll of filament. My store: HTTPS://WWW.PANHANDLELASER.COM Here are the items used in this video: Creality K1C - Orange Hyper Filament - amzn.to/4e06SaE Black Hyper Filament - amzn.to/47qwV8o Elmers Glue Sticks - amzn.to/3z77Mmp Link t...
REMOVING A FILAMENT JAM IN THE FEEDER ON THE CREALITY K1C
มุมมอง 4.3K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, we do a quick tutorial on how to remove the feeder from the printer head and remove jammed filament. #creality3dprinter #crealityk1 #3dprinting #filament #filamentjam www.panhandlelaser.com Creality K1C on Amazon: amzn.to/3YyEU0t Music licensed from bensound.com : Certificate # 2204941
3D Printing Leg Risers For The Xtool D1 10W
มุมมอง 2977 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video series, we will be learning how to 3D print with the Creality K1C 3D printer. This printer is SUPER fast and prints with outstanding quality! Today we will be printing some risers for the Xtool D1 10W diode laser. #XTOOL #3DPRINTING #XTOOLLEGRISERS Creality K1C on Amazon: amzn.to/3YyEU0t
LONGER RAY5 10W REVIEW
มุมมอง 5599 หลายเดือนก่อน
Today we are testing out the Longer Ray5 10W, Diode Laser. Right out of the box, this unit works very well, with relatively quick setup. #longer3d #longerray5 #diodelaser Longer Ray5 10W : amzn.to/3VZ5bDX shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=1078320&m=115522&u=3526873&afftrack=&urllink= www.panhandlelaser.com
Testing Acrylic From GreatCarve
มุมมอง 3499 หลายเดือนก่อน
Today we are testing some vinyl samples that GreatCarve sent to me. This is a pretty good product. I'm not really happy with them as far as what was promised and what I received (there were some shady interactions), but the items I tested were pretty good quality.
Laser Engraved Rubber Stamps
มุมมอง 3.6K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, we will do a few tests to get the best settings for engraving a rubber stamp with a 10w diode laser. #Wizmaker #atomstack #Xtool Connect with me: www.panhandlelaser.com Discord: discord.gg/8KXpdnbfaA Facebook: www.Facebook.com/lasernoob Stamp Pad: amzn.to/3SJYx12 Ink Refill: amzn.to/3TcC1j9 Rubber Sheets: amzn.to/3USiwxx
4000 Subscriber Giveaway
มุมมอง 16010 หลายเดือนก่อน
Enter the keyword to be eligible to win a free, protective lens cover replacement kit. Watch the video for the keyword! The winner will be announced via livestream on March 3, 2024 at 2pm central time. www.Panhandlelaser.com
ETCHING BRASS WITH A DIODE LASER
มุมมอง 12Kปีที่แล้ว
In this video, we will run some tests to see if we can etch some brass with a diode laser. I am using the #wizmaker L1 36W Diode Laser. #xtool #omtech #atomstack #diodelaser www.panhandlelaser.com Wizmaker L1 36W Diode Laser: amzn.to/43uQCs3 Wizmaker Rotary Combo: amzn.to/3rF4xyo Omtech Black Laser Marking Spray: amzn.to/3tdhXmv Brass Sheets: amzn.to/47VKj3M Laser Safety Glasses: amzn.to/3sKXJw...
BORAX vs. BAKING SODA WOOD ENGRAVING
มุมมอง 20Kปีที่แล้ว
Today we will test borax and baking soda to see what the differences are when ethching wood. We will be using my favorite laser, the #Wizmaker L1 36w, blue diode laser. www.panhandlelaser.com Wizmaker L1 36w Laser: amzn.to/43uQCs3 Laser Safety Glasses: amzn.to/3sKXJwA 1/16"x12"x12" Basswood Sheets: amzn.to/45Qm9Wv Lens Cover Replacement Kits: www.etsy.com/listing/1462555030/xtool-atomstack-acme...
ACMER P2 33W Diode Laser Review
มุมมอง 1.1Kปีที่แล้ว
I was sent the Acmer P2 33w, blue diode laser to do a review on. It did not pass my quality checks. There are some really nice features, buy they don't ovecome the faults. Check out the video and don't miss my Final Thoughts! My ETSY store: thelasernoob.etsy.com/ Connect with me- Facebook: Https:// lasernoob Discord: discord.gg/8KXpdnbfaA Instagram: @TheLaserNoob
Making Wall Art For Kids' rooms
มุมมอง 314ปีที่แล้ว
In todays video, we will be making some wall art for a childs bedroom with the Wizmaker L1 36 watt Diode Laser. #wizmaker #diodelaser #lasercutting #wallart Please consider using any of my links to get to Amazon to make any purchases. It helps me out and makes me a few cents here and there. WIZMAKER L1 36W LASER ON AMAZON: amzn.to/43uQCs3 Basswood: amzn.to/3jEd9RL Connect with me- Facebook: Htt...
ROTARY CHUCK SETUP WITH LIGHTBURN
มุมมอง 8Kปีที่แล้ว
Today we setup the Wizmaker Rotary Chuck in lightburn and do some test tumblers. www.panhandlelaser.com Please consider using any of the below links to make ANY purchases from Amazon. Anything you purchase from amazon after clicking one of my links, earns me a few cents and is much appreciated. Laser Safety Goggles: amzn.to/3sKXJwA Blue Tumblers: amzn.to/44NWsWu Red Tumblers: amzn.to/3O2XtTW Wi...
Wizmaker L1 36w Review! The perfect laser to start your side-hustle!
มุมมอง 1.6Kปีที่แล้ว
Wizmaker L1 36w Review! The perfect laser to start your side-hustle!
Installing an exhaust system in the shop
มุมมอง 842ปีที่แล้ว
Installing an exhaust system in the shop
Making A Personalized Mouse Pad With A Diode Laser
มุมมอง 957ปีที่แล้ว
Making A Personalized Mouse Pad With A Diode Laser
Making a Speed/Power Test Grid and Engraving Powder Coated Tumblers with XCS
มุมมอง 10Kปีที่แล้ว
Making a Speed/Power Test Grid and Engraving Powder Coated Tumblers with XCS
Making a hand-made leather wallet with the help of a diode laser
มุมมอง 1.6Kปีที่แล้ว
Making a hand-made leather wallet with the help of a diode laser
Creating your own speed/power test grid in Lightburn
มุมมอง 4.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Creating your own speed/power test grid in Lightburn
UV Resin Coated, Laser Etched, Earrings
มุมมอง 1.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
UV Resin Coated, Laser Etched, Earrings
Thank you so much, you help me a lot. God bless you
Where did you get your hold down clips?
I 3d printed them.
@ I have 3d printer, are files in Printables?
@morrismurray3621 email a request to support@panhandlelaser.com . I'll send you the stl file.
Excellent. There's so little online help for troubleshooting the K1C, this saved me from making a trip to microcenter to buy a nozzle kit that wouldn't have solved myproblem, anyways. Subbed.
Yeah this sucks creality is crap
I'm little bit confused. When u did your first testing, it was laser flat, when u uploaded finished grid image, its saying "laser cylindrical''. So, which setting u used for final test that did end up correctly? when u started engraving your dragon logo, it was saying again laser flat, even u using rotary attachment.
What the heck ! I just purchased the K1C ! Is this a common problem? Given the cost, this seems to be ridiculous!
Using pla, I leave the top off. That seems to have solved the issue for me.
@ leave what top off ?
The top cover of the printer.
I cannot for the life of me get my extruder to pull apart (the piece housing the gears). All screws are removed and everything. Terrified to break it by forcing too hard.
Use a small flathead and gently pry it at the seams.
@LaserNoob I finally got it to pop off. Thank the Lord the small bearing that fell off didn't roll somewhere 😅 managed to do it with this little prybar that came with my adult Legos set along with the scraper that came with the printer.
I was just glad to know that cold galvanizing was bad to use with lasers without a good vent.
Hu! Thanks for the tutorial! About the Omtec black spray, is it white when painted on ? New at this 😊
Great video thank you! Fixed my problem !
I need to try that LSU idea. Hmmm… Got an extra one laying around?? 😂😂
The factory video says 1minute
The instructions say 4.
Omg your matt is genius! I’ve been struggling so much to center my work, this would help so much! Wishing I didn’t just blow money on a matt off Amazon… 😞
RESULTS.... With my Longer B1 30 watt laser set to 4000 mm/min, 50% power, .08 line interval, burning my pint glass resulted in very nice, BLACK test squares and not the "white" etching I was expecting. This is with a just purchased can of the Rust-Oleum CG spray. These results were obtained with both a one coat and a two coat test. I do get a beautiful "white" etch using the black Prang Tempura paint, but, I have to use my airbrush to apply to ensure an even, smooth coat,(s) with at least 3-4 coats performing best. Airbrushing is OK, but, being a PIA to clean, I'll line up several/many objects to airbrush to make the cleanup worthwhile. The Tempura paint works best - for me - with a somewhat heavier coating and when I tried to apply subsequent coats carefully with a foam brush, the previous coat melted/dissolved when the second was applied. The dollar store has the pint glasses for only a buck 25 each and my stash of over 20 glasses will let me fine tune my settings on the cheap.... A TIP - When cleaning your burns, it is best to use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub the etch. Cleaning with only a soft - foam brush - will not effectively clean the nooks and crannies in you burn and, using a bit of Dawn detergent on the brush will provide the best final finish....
I'll be testing my burns with the cold galvanized spray as soon as my can arrives tomorrow. NOW, my very best advise to EVERYONE is to ALWAYS use the air assist when burning ANY glass etching masks. I have heard from some people that they f'ed up their laser lens, (protective lens), by not using the air assist as some of the flying particles jumped up into the laser head and BONDED to the lens.... SO, you do you, I'll do me and use air assist all of the time.... Call me cautious, but, call me a guy without a damaged laser lens 🙂
Great, save me a lot of time. Thank you.
should play your music louder, I could almost hear other things..
There is a new invention called a volume control. You should try it. But hey, thanks for the input on a 2 year old video.
@ I figured you would have a snarky reply. Kudos! But your talking parts are too soft and your music parts are deafening. And who cares about the age of the video. It still applies. Have a wonderful holiday.
You start off with a smart-a** comment and expect me to not reply in kind? That's some liberal logic right there. BTW, thanks for the watch and the comments, they help my metrics.
Even though I've been using my laser for close to 10 mths I never thought to use this option, I'm currently making a stove top cover (3rd one so far) and it's much larger then my machine, the first two covers I got lucky with aligning them to center just by eye-balling them, I think they where off by 1/4" (not bad). this current project was off by 2 1/2" so it was noticeable, I had seen others use a similar technique to yours but it got confusing because they where talking about setting they had done previously off camera. (no help what-so-ever). Your tutorial is easy to follow, clear and concise. I marked the center of the board, jogged the laser module to the center mark, made the required setting and it works as it should, I did have to slide the frame to the right about an inch but everything is set to go. Great work on the tutorial. Thanks
New to laser I have a atom stack pro 5 5.5W it has no homing switches when I start my laser in lightburn it says no home has been set in GRBL how do I get it to home
In the bottom right of Lightburn, you should see a tab labeled DEVICES. If you laser is listed, go into edit. There you can set up the home position. If it's not listed, you can either manually or automatically set up you laser. There should be a section in the instruction manual of how to do this. I also have videos which include how to do this with the atomstack.
You can also see how to do that in this video. th-cam.com/video/kYzRdNKb2NA/w-d-xo.html
Amazing videos, I'm looking at getting one and ur so helpful with info I really appreciate it all. So thank you very much from a happy follower in Wrexham, wales. Thank you please keep videos coming
Always nice to hear from my friends across the pond!
The easiest way to get the angled cut perfect is to lay the two filaments against each other and cut them together with 1 cut. Works perfect for me!
So I was today years old when I found out that setting the mm per rotation actually really did matter. Wow. Thanks for your video on that. I was going nuts because I would send the graphic to the laser and it would burn it all the way around. Thanks again. Btw if anyone asks the Creality rotary chuck has to be set to 40 mm per rotation. Thanks again, new fan.
My system came with a 10 and 40w. I just have to look and see if i.have to do anything with the motherboard. I also got in with xtool for the shirts and that came with a brand new 10w and the attachment to burn on the paint screens to make shirts. I may have to put that together and try that. Weird that a 40w, or 36 in your case, can't burn tiles. You would think you could just reduce the power to make it work. Thanks for your response.
Hi, I'm a new subscriber. I've tried 2 tiles with the rustoleum 2x satin white but both were way to light. One I used invert and the other reg. I used 100% power and 3000mm/m and 2000mm/min. I'm running a 40w d1pro. I just too the image off of a 3d website. Any suggestions as to make this better. Your images are excellent!!!!
I ran several speed and power tests with my 36w and could not get it to do ceramic tiles. I also had difficulties with glass as well. You may have to get some spray and try that. My tiles were all done with a 10w laser.
The intro of the manufacturer says 1 (one) minute, and NOT 4.!
The instructions say 4. So....
Hi bro, I appreciate the review but it's almost impossible to listen to with all the background noise... You need to find a quieter place to record or adjust the audio in post.
Crazy. I have always just used a lighter and ice pack to cool it then a razor blade to clean it up. It takes like a min and I just do it on the machine when my spool has a couple of winds left.
You don't any kind of paint if you are using the black poster board behind the acrylic.
Thanks for your input.
Brilliant Video, thanks for sharein
I didn't know this video would contain Lib Tears. Extra points! Great video
I had to delete some of the comments, but some of the meltdowns were hilarious!
Nearly 3 three years ago, but your assistance is timeless! THANK YOU!
Thank you very much for this lesson. It helped me a lot.
One of the best use cases for laser engravers.
Nice I need to try this thanks
You should seal with clear varnish before using resin.
In Australia I used rust-oleum custom white found in auto stores has high titanium and lays down smooth
You're awesome, your videos are great! :) The question I want to ask is, what parameters would you recommend for a 20 Watt laser machine? Thanks in advance. By the way, I joined Discord. Should I have asked there instead?
There is no need to ask before joining discord, welcome to the channel! As far as 20w settings go, there is no good answer. The best way to dial in your machine is to run a speed/power test.
@@LaserNoob I previously used a 3 Watt machine. I'm new to working with a 20 Watt one, and it feels incredibly powerful compared to the 3 Watt. I'm really obsessed with engraving on ceramics and glass. After using the 3 Watt, I keep breaking things with the 20 Watt! I'm used to working with low power settings on the 3 Watt, but this machine is a beast, and it'll take a lot of effort to get used to. The parameters I was familiar with are completely thrown off now...
@magnogkilla I certainly understand that. I started with a 5w. Now I have a 36w, 30w, 2 10w and an extra 5w. The only one I don't have is a 20. With the more powerful lasers, start off by reducing power and upping the speed. You'll blow through a lot of test material. But once you have it dialed in, your money! 💰 💰 💰
Thanks for this. Day two of K1C printer and this happened to me. This video was a life saver. I thought it was totally broken. I used a flat bladed micro screwdriver to gently pry the lid and body of the extruder apart once the crews were out.
exactly the same
Thanks! It wasn't as hard as it seemed actually, after seeing you disassemble everything I thought it would be really hard connecting all together later but it was actually easy ;)
Working around the camera made it seem more difficult than it actually is. Glad the video helped you out!
What was your power and speed settings
That shirt made me change the channel and block you.
Thank you! ❤️
@@LaserNoob After leaving a comment, of course. But hey, it's still a click and an engagement for your stats, so you still won. lol
Thanks for video, made few tests myself and if still someone interested, it works good with cheap mix of titanium dioxide and alcohol. Tested on Ortur LM3 20W. 50mm/min 80% power.
can the titanium dioxide be removed from the brass? I’m looking to paint brass white (which has titanium dioxide) then remove the paint with a laser. Don’t know if you can wash away the burned titanium dioxide after
@ yes it works but i put tio2 powder (cheap and available everywhere) in alcohol in spray bottle shaked and spray. Dry or use hot air gun if you are impatient🙂 Clean with wet rug after easily or you can mask rest with some tape can send you photo if u like
cool
I'm testing on plexiglass cause I have some laying around. I got a longer ray 5 10w. How do I make it so it don't crack the plexiglass? Is my power to high? Please help
Hi u add 150 ml tempra paint and 50 ml water?
Any 3:1 tempera to water ratio works well.
@@LaserNoob tnks man
I have an Atomstack P7 M40 diode laser. What is the best setting for engraving on glass? Is 500 mm/s speed and 90% power correct?
Gracias
But why does this happen on the K1’s? I’d want to know before I put it all back together. Heat creep?
Here is my experience with this issue: It has happened to me 2 times. Both were with PLA filament. Both times it happened, was when my shop was abnormally warm and I had the lid on and door closed. Under the same temperature conditions, with the lid off and door closed, I have had no issues. That is with 50 days and 2 hours of total print time. So, I'm chalking it up to excessive temperature in the print chamber.
It happens quite regularly to me (about every 10hrs print with PLA), so I got quite good in unjamming it. Not sure yet why it happens so often. Changed both extruder and nozzle. I doubt it's the heat, but will keep it in mind. My guess it could also be Filament Quality and/or high speed printing....
Nice skulls, I'll be doing some for the granddaughters. Did you work out how many you could get from one roll of filament?
I got 7 out of each roll. I sell them for $15. So it's a really good profit margin!
Nice 🙂@@LaserNoob
Nice work. What kind of wood did you use?
Booba !!!😅😅😅