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Thanks 😊

I think it is also a matter of perspective. From an aesthetic point of view, most models these days are simply better IMHO. And for me as a painter that matters more than customization. But if you look at it from a gamers point of view, it is not as clear cut as you said it yourself too. There are less customization options in general and the additional details most models have these days might be a chore to paint for some people. So different strokes for different folks I guess :)

Unfortunately, I painted him before I started with the videos. But it went something like this: I primed the model with a dark red ( Khorne red if I remember correctly ) Then I sprayed Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue as a zenithal with an airbrush. I sprayed some highlights with light Prussian blue and finally with light Prussian blue with a little white mixed in. Finally I edge highlighted with the same lighter colors. I hope that helps 🙂

@ph3lansminiatures thank you for the detailed response! Clever to use a dark red as a base, I'll try that recipe out as soon as possible!

Thank you! Those are my favorite parts as well 😁

That sounds cool as hell dude. Share a picture when you have him painted!

@@ph3lansminiatures for sure!

It is a Guijia Squadron TAG, the pilot of the same TAG, and 4 Hungries.

@@ph3lansminiatures thanks! ☺️

I don't really have the exact color matches in my Vallejo collection, but if I had to use what I have I would probably do a basecoat with Violet, then highlights with Warlord Purple and Squid Pink. There might be better color matches, but these should give you something comparable. I hope that helps 🙂

@@ph3lansminiatures it does thank you for the reply love the video 😍

Thank you 😊

Thank you 😊

Deathmaster Snikch is a real classic

Gorbad Ironclaw, Grimgor, Azhag... Any of the old Warhammer Fantasy orc characters were cool af, and the sculpts are awesome even for today standards :)

@@stressedbrush7697 Holy crap, Gorbad and Azhag look absolutely awesome. And I have never even seen these models before. Maybe I get lucky and GW brings them back for the Old World.

@@adamjames8419 That model looks sick!

Yeah, that can be tricky for sure. There are two methods I use. 1. You imagine that there is a light right above the model ( basically the sun ). Check If you can draw a straight line from that imaginary point to the element you want to paint. If yes, it should be highlighted, if not it should be dark. If it is not obvious, highlight it half way up :D 2. Put the model under a desk lamp while it is primed black and take a photo with your phone. Where the lamp highlights the model, you highlight it too 😉

Hey there! These days I have a written guide with all the paints listed on my Patreon for most of my projects. But this video was published before I started doing those. But I managed to find my notes, so here is the list for the white and the red :) White Dark Blue Grey Pale Blue Medium Grey OffWhite White Ink glaze Red Burnt Red Burnt Red + Deep Red Burnt Red + Deep Red (more deep red) Deep Red Deep yellow + Deep Red I hope that helps :)

@@ph3lansminiatures appreciate it! Thanks for the very informative and we'll put together videos!

I am probably not the best source of info about spray priming since I have been using the airbrush since the very beginning 😅I primed my first couple of models by brush and then bought a cheap airbrush + compressor kit. That being said the results you can get with rattle cans are dependent on the humidity and also on how far away the can is from the model when you spray them. So basically the best advice I can give is to shake it well, then shake it more, make sure the can is warmed up to room temperature, spray when it is not too humid outside and spray in bursts from 6-8 inches away. I hope that helps get a nice even coat 😁

@@ph3lansminiatures thanks for the reply!

Sure, AK paints need thinning like all acrylics.Depending on what you are doing you need to add more or less water. For example base coating doesn't require a lot of thinning, but for glazing you need to add quite a bit.

To be honest brush control just comes with practice, and I am painting a lot these days, so I have plenty of practice 😀 But it is absolutely true that brush control helps immensely with speed. That's why, funnily enough, practicing difficult techniques makes you super fast when doing simple ones 😜

That is a hard question to answer since it depends on what you want to achieve 😅 Both solutions can work but they produce different results. If you want to do the traditional games workshop method, where you wash the whole surface and re-highlight after, then the black wash will achieve that. but most of the time I personally wouldn't choose this method. Black shadows are quite boring to look at so I prefer to add some color. I don't really use washes too much these days, but I suppose a colored wash applied in a targeted manner would be my choice. For blue robes I would probably go with a very dark red for example. I hope that's at least a little helpful 😅

Hey there! Welcome to the channel ☺️ This is one of the earliest Infinity videos I put out, there is a ton more with even more coming 😉 I didn't use any medium, I simply diluted the paint with the water I left in the brush while rinsing it occasionally. ( plus the moisture from the wet palette) Acrylics tend to be naturally transparent as long as you don't apply super thick layers, so as long as you use multiple thin coats the undercoat should somewhat be visible. Mediums are generally not needed for thinning your paints unless you go for some specific technique or effect.

Thank you 😊 I will do my best to improve that underrated part 😂

Thanks! 😊 I really had to clear this off of my backlog. I painted the first part almost exactly a year ago, no way in hell I will allow the new box to come out before I finish this one 😁

@@ph3lansminiatures technically the new box is out for sale in Essen already soo 🙄

😂 Yeah, I know what you mean. I always underestimate the amount of details before starting. Then I start to discover them as I paint and the time to complete the models sky rockets. But I just can't resist the temptation of painting all the details 🤣

Yeah, it is easy to make the mistake of using white colors for white 🤣 It is just one of those situations where it seems like common sense, but you just end up making your life difficult :D

Thank you 😊

Ph3lan… you also promised to paint the nightlord killteammm. Cmon man you got me begging 🙏

😂 I might give it a shot!

@@ph3lansminiaturespaint JSA then paint Kestrel PanO 5 months later again? 😂

It may look like I am covering it fully but that is not actually the case 🙂 it is still visible in the deepest shadows and because acrylics are transparent it still influences the colors that go over it even in the midtones. It is subtle, and it is supposed to be, but it gives a certain atmosphere to the whole model. If I did the same steps, but without the purple, the whole model would look different, kinda like how an Instagram filter can change the mood of a picture even if it is ultimately the same photo, if that makes sense.

Hey there! For details I use mostly Harder & Steenbeck, sometimes the Infinity but nowadays mostly the Ultra. But for bigger tasks, like priming, I have a cheap airbrush that came with my compressor kit. The PSI depends on what you want to do. If you prime you can go close to 30 and for glazing below 20. Or you can get a little pressure regulator valve that connects between the hose and the airbrush and change it on the fly :)