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What tool racks are that?

Nice video! You have earned yourself a new subscriber. I’m a one man shop as well and enjoy seeing other one man shops getting things done and spreading knowledge.

😊

NYC cnc has an excel spreadsheet that you can fill out and will give you the offset. It takes into account the flat on the tip of the cutter if one exists

OUCH BRO!!!!

What do you program with? Mastercam?

With a flourish! Does the spin before the probe have a purpose?

Just bought the 3/8” version and went from 30ipm to 150ipm in 316 stainless. Very happy with the results.

Can I ask about your tool setter mount? Did you buy it or make it? I’m also using the 5th axis plate and the silver cnc er40 and chuck, works great!

WTF its syil x7

Well explained

That 90° looks really useful.

very cool. are you going to make those for sale? would love to upgrade my x7 i hate the stock manifold

Great video, looking forward to seeing the rest of this series. I have a question re your WCS positions. If the first vice is located in G57, why did you select G54 and #1 for the first part? I’d have thought you would have used G57 and # 4 in that setup? Because your vice and part are modelled, the mill knows where the part is off G57…. I’m just not understanding using 2 different WCS’s for the same work position. I use G54 (1) for my vice in my X7 and G59 (6) for my 4th axis.

I just started using the haas carbide drills on my X7 and its night and day difference.

How about an hho pulse jet.

I have an X7 and do rigid tapping all the time and never had a stall. May I suggest you use TG1 spiral flute machine taps as well as using a compression/tension tap holder...it is just good insurance.

Sorry 8k RPM, not 6.

Just what I needed. Thanks

Haven't done this with an x7/syil, but one thing I've done in the past when I've had issues like this is just making a "guest" network on my wifi that is separate from my main wifi. I use google/nest wifi though so I am not sure if that feature is available on other wifi units.

Great content would you mind posting links to the products you use, it would really help us beginners to get up and running.

The classical piano is a nice touch.

I'm setting the XY coordinates for each position of the rocklock. They'll correlate to g57 through g59.

What brand vise is that?

Which probe is this? I’m currently looking at the silver cnc probe for my x7

Much more reasonably priced than the GOdrills. How do you like the performance of the Hass carbide drills compared to the GOdrills you had? The Hass tooling seems to be a good value.

Деньги остаются в России !!!!

Sabes como configurar la maquina de milimétros a pulgadas?

Filezilla may be a better software for ftp

Thanks for this! I have a LNC Syil and this is perfect. Where did you learn to code? Trial and error with lots of youtube?

Cheers mate

when using the miteebite pitbull clamps I cut some brass shim stock to use between my stock and clamps. The talon's I do the same so the clamping marks are very minimal.

We only have standard kurt vises. Great to see whats new in the vice world.

We've tried them all: Schunk, Erowa, Pierson, 5th axis. Where we ended up landing was standardizing was 96mm 5th-axis/Lang for 3-axis application and Erowa ITS for 5-axis or automated applications. Pierson does have the very real benefit of very good pull-force and stability, however. That said, we eventually sold our eight Pierson's and going all with Erowa and 5th axis

Haas Tooling is great; just keep in mind most of it is YG1 or other mid-tier high-quality brands that Haas is whitelabeling. We love them when we're in a hurry and need good value, but if we have time we order directly

This is a seriously great channel -- subscribed! Have been eyeing these for a while and was impressed when Eric over at Orange showed us these units running production of more vises parts. We may have to give these a try for when we do run non-automated parts

She still sings a little. Far better than the banshee scream when I used the manufacturer speeds and feeds. Feel free to leave recommendations.

The lowercase thing stopped me from connecting to my X5 because both the SSID and key have lowercase letters. Only about 30 devices to reprogram! I might go back to Plan A and run ethernet out to the shop... Or I could just update all those devices and tell the visitors to do the same, or run a second wifi SSID, which might be a whole bunch less painful. Have you tried the remote monitor facility?

Sweet! Now lets get a website up and an order form going so I can buy one!

Nice job! You should be able to re-anodize the part. Also, I cringed a little when you talked about acid and wave maker in the same sentence. I had the same agitation issue in my anodizing setup, and used compressed air (less than 1 psi) through a quick disconnect to PVC pipes that never leave the container to agitate the acid (longezproject.blogspot.com/2015/01/anodizing-part-3.html). Having said that, if yours works... it works. Ciao, Marco.

You know that anodising can be stripped eh?

I would of considered moving that base system off to one side so I had a clear spot on the table for other work… but I don’t know your typical work.

Rocklock base is more versatile than the Pierson pallet system imo. Never had any issues with the 5th axis stuff.

You can, absolutely, drill a hole for an NPT thread. You don't need to bore or circular interpolate a tapered bore first. The only caveat is that you use an NPT thread mill, which has the required minor diameter taper ground on it, as well as the tapered threads. FWIW, you can also purchase a tapered reamer that would taper that hole much faster than an endmill.

That is painful to watch.

Awesome video. Btw, which Syil PP that compatible with probing from fusion?

THANKS FOR SHARINeitG THIS , i was looking for it , get confuse about somting with npt , about geometri , u select just hole when u thread mill

Looks like a perfect part for the super glue technique.

I run the silver cnc plate and vices on my x7 they are great also run the silver cnc c170 4th axis :) I am in AU though and silver was half the price here compared to 5th axis gear. Also have the 4th on a pierson subplate and their rotovise pro :)

You want your acid bath maintained at about 70 - 74 f To correctly anodize you will need 40 amps per square ft of aluminum surface. Commercial anodizing uses caustic as a degreaser ( sodium hydroxide solution) also warmed to about 110f, the time in the bath depends on the strength of the solution, I know its generally about 10 minutes at 110f and using bubbles to agitate it, rinse the part well afterwards, the caustic bath also needs to be exhausted to outside, this cleans and etches the aluminum and promotes the anodizing process. In most commercial processes all the tanks have pvc pipe in the bottom with small holes drilled about every inch except for the dye tank, this causes even distribution of solution and oxygenated bubbles especially in the acid bath, the oxygen helps build the layer thickness on the aluminum, also amperage will rise as the layer of anodizing builds thicker, voltages between 20 vdc and 30 vdc build the best coating relatively fast. A 24v automotive battery charger well work well, because it is Half wave DC power, bench supplies are usually Full wave which will run hotter and take longer. You are on the right track👍👍 I used to build these systems commercially , so these are just suggestions to help you along👍👍