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I made the ring from a smaller beer can (0,33 l). I put it around the "slices", so that those slices stay in a good order when I shape it with the electrical tape. So you only need one big (1 l) and one small (0,33 l) can. For better instructions, check out the link in the description.

@@olijomusic2481 thanks!

It's a plugin called Edison, in FL Studio

@@olijomusic2481 Thanks for answering my question. Subscribed 👍

No dummy

No he made it

Yeah he made it

Not take it apart

The second song is "Brother, Can You Spare a Dime?"

@@olijomusic2481 Thank brother! This melody is in my head for 3 days already :D Learning to play it on trumpet. Thanks!

After a-lot of testing it ended up as a harmonica resonator where the sound is more focused to the microphone. I’ll get back with a video later. Thanks for interesting idea.

Yes I did, and the saxophone :D

www.ikea.com/us/en/p/blanda-matt-serving-bowl-bamboo-60214343/ These are the wooden bowls I used.

I'm not sure if I remember it correctly, but probably mostly linear. Volume pot is probably log.

I did not make any subwoofer, but the woofer and midrange enclosures are both aperiodic. Crossover frequencies are 800 Hz and 3800 Hz. Maybe I should make a subwoofer too 🤔. It may only be hard to handle the large magnets.

There's not very much information about DIY speaker drivers in the internet. But by reading about how they are made in factories, you can find your own ways to do it. It's pretty hard to calculate beforehands how the driver will act. But there's some software that can be used to model the system, if you know the parameters for all the parts you use (like material, elastic modulus, density, magnetic properties etc). The magnet structure can be modeled with a software called FEMM. I have also used COMSOL Multiphysics in school projects to model speaker drivers, but that's quite compilcated too, especially if you don't know the properties of all your materials. When I made those drivers, I didn't do any computer modeling beforehands (i thought it would be too hard and time consuming). I only measured the impedance afterwards with a simple impedance rig, using softwares like REW and ARTA/LIMP. Then I used the measurement data to calculate Thiele-Small parameters for the driver. Based on those parameters, I chose the enclosure type. My drivers had high total Q-value (which means something like very low damping), so decided to make aperiodic enclosures, to balance the damping of the drivers a little better. Also, I wanted the enclosure to be somewhat compact, so an aperiodic enclosure was good for that, because it allows smaller cabinet size. Here's some information about aperiodic speakers diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Aperiodic/ If you want to know about the physics behind speakers and speaker drivers in general you can check these books: www.sciencedirect.com/book/9780123914217/acoustics-sound-fields-and-transducers www.amazon.com/Loudspeaker-Headphone-Handbook-Third-Borwick/dp/0240515781 However, those books, probably do not include any DIY tips. Also www.diyaudio.com/ Is good place to discuss all the technical details of DIY speaker projects

There's also some useful links in the description that I can recommend.

@@olijomusic2481 Thank very very much!

I actually just used some crossover calculator from the internet. I know that if I desingned the crossover myself with some software tools, I could get even better results, but at that point of the project, I was quite exhausted already, as there was a lot of work in the drivers and the enclosure already. The crossovers are external, as I didn't want to put them inside the enclosures, as they are tricky to open in case of any error. In addition to the crossovers, I made an analog filter around 100 something Hz to tackle the one worst resonant frequency of the enclosure.

ibb.co/BT02Mb5 Here's a schematic that I sketched on a paper. It may be a little hard to read. Also, there may be some minor mistakes, or some parts that doesn't make any sense. I made some parts of it just by trial and error, so I didn't always really know what I was doing. I never ended up actually making the control voltage outputs, and I don't even know if they would work at all.

Sounds like an interesting project. Just tell me if you end up making any video or documentation about it, it would be interesting to see 😀. I know the voice coil aligning method and I actually tried it too. But I wanted to be sure that the outer surface won't rub. With the plastic strips, I only see the inner surface of the former. And as I know that the coil gap isn't perfect either, I'm not yet satisfied with the information that the former is centered compared to the pole piece. Do you understand what I mean?

@@olijomusic2481 Yes i see what you are talking about. Thanks for explaining.

Yes, I made the impedance rig to measure the T/S parameters and the impedance. Actually, that was why I ended up making it aperiodic, as the woofer Qts very high. The aperiodic design kind of damps the cone movement, as it forces the air to move in and out through a resistive vent. I also took some not very accurate FR measurements of the drivers using my USB mic. The measurements were not that accurate, but they helped me to find the cone break-up frequencies, and to design the crossover network.