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Interesting

অসাধারণ হয়েছে। খুব ভালো লাগলো।❤️😊 nice

Awesome find ! Now I want some sweet potato fries !

That is awesome great job buddy. Inspiring

I saved the big logs for my sawmill. Maybe I can get some lumber out of them or size them down for the processor. I believe I have under 60 hours on my machine and I have done five semi loads of wood.

get yerself a gallon of Black Jack Tire Repair BJK-LB-800 Tire Mounting Lubricant, and, a red Straight Lube Bucket for Coats Changers with 3 Lube Swabs that are 11.5" Length, and then slather away at all the surfaces, then go to town on your tire changin job. Then it doesn't matter if there's any leftover liquid anywhere on the rim or in the tire when your job's all done. The Black Jack is good for your tire, doesn't hurt the rim, and helps seal the bead even better.

That tire changer is trash ! Scrap metal nothing else don be fool.

Hi there Quick question as I am still a little confused about cleaning the RO once finished. Do I do a full rinse, wash, rinse and then the citric acid wash/rinse & plug if I’m going to store. I cant get back to it until Sunday (after todays if there is more sap available) Thanks so much!

You are not supposed to put your concentrated sap back into your raw sap. It should go into a separate container.

British hydraulics, though not as common, is available most good hydraulic shops

i've had this processor for about 3 years now with many mods to increase productivity. wouldn't recommend. just really underbuilt in critical areas using cheap components. i do about 50-60 cord a season. your better off saving up for a better designed and built machine.

Good stuff!!😁

In all fairness the basic machine is Quite capable. If you plan on cutting More than a cord or two you're going To neef the hydraulic blade assist And the hydraulic in feed. We added Both and ended up at about $10,500. Both additional festures are really Worth the money. We cut about 15 Full cords a year and we really feel The assisting add ons are essential. Very solid hard performing machine.

WHEN REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEAD YOU TAKE YOUR SMALL TIRE IRON AND GO FROM THE BOTTOM AND PULL THE BAR UP AN IT WILL HELP A LOT

how much does 1m3 of such firewood cost in your market?

Mine works but the bead breaker bends. The bar to mount the tire is difficult to use. Spoons work great.

Very nice build the star cat is an affordable entry level evaporator I don’t think you can really compare the two though

I can’t say this enough…the bar and chain that comes with the processor is completely garbage.

As the weight of the roll decreases does the counterweight need to change?

When i say i have old trucks sitting around, they are from the 60's and 70's. No 50's and nothing newer than 1979.

Very nice you should make a video on how to build

Wonder if those city liberals can change a tire on their electric car never mind take a tire off a rim.😅

Awesome video Great work ! Trump 2024 !!!

Clark Griswolds brother in law.

its always better to do it yourself because you know it was done right instead of paying someone 20 dollars and still end up with a rim leak. that really pisses you off and you have to end up doing a tire breakdown and seal the rim

You know Beaver lumber has lots of paneling for a house that is barely standing :P

Excellent video the people make the budiness.

This guy is really good. Thanks

You lost me at liberals. Real people doing real shit Dun care about your political self/importance.

Glade to see you got rid of the other girl.

That was painful.

Duckbill mod for these works amazingly well

I would imagine the vegetable oil increases the wear on your bar producing grooves in the rails that allow the chain to wander and not cut or cut straight. Happens to all bars eventually and you have to grind your rails flat again or replace it even with good oil. Put a new bar and chain on and notice the difference.

what kind of hourly production in terms of chords per hour do you get with this machine and this kind of material? Thanks

Just need to be adjusted i have the same machine love in 👍

You spray that water up inside a good tire and it will rott from the inside out.

What did this unit end up costing you?

Gotta turn that heat down. The oil burned onto the pan right as it hit it. Try using butter. Works great.

Why don't you tell me what communism is?

you made hard work of that feller

Thank you for the video. It looks like you removed the tire just to put it back on.

At 8:33 that groove in the rim is called the "channel". It is midway across the rim (midway down in the position on the machine), it is about 4 inches wide (up and down in this position on the machine) and two inches deep (toward the shaft on the machine). As you lever the rod to pop up the bead, you MUST push as much of the rest of the bead into the channel (AHEAD of the bar pry point and all the way to the other side OPPOSITE of the pry point and any further if you can). You have to KEEP that leading bead pushed in the Channel as you push the bar around the shaft as it lifts the bead. It takes practice because the bead will "fight you" and want to pop up toward the rim lip. The whole idea is to keep as much of the bead as possible in the channel to give you plenty of SLACK at the the pry point to easily lift and pop the bead over the rim lip as you go around. Staring the rotation is the most difficult part because you need as much of the bead in the channel to get going, as more and more of the bead is lifted up over the lip as you go around, it gets easier. But keep that bead in the channel until the poped up portion of the bead is now providing slack for the opposite side. You are doing TWO critical and subtle operations at once (most people don't even see the subtle pushing of the bead into the channel because you can't see it (tires are not clear) - its all done by feel. Go slow and practice makes perfect. Once you master the technique, you will not need to lubricate the bead (which can cause corrosion and rim leaks if all moisture from the lubricant is not removed). Many people use lubricant when putting on (mounting) a tire and forget to COMPLETELY DRY off the bead, rim, and ANY water that gets inside the tire and rim. Any water (even a few drops) can cause corrosion and leaks. If you fail to keep the bead in the channel and force the pry bar, you will DAMAGE the bead and thus destroy the tire beyond use. Go slow, if it seems suck, DONT force it... back off and try again giving more attention to keeping the bead in the channel. Notice how many times I mentioned "bead in the channel"... that is what makes sucessful and easy tire mounting/unmounting possible.

You must be a baby boomer. Either that, or you paid attention to something other than your fart phone at the tire shop. Most millennials and Gen Zers don't do that. That's why they can't operate good equipment to do something like this. You can take a tube type tire off the rim without one of those. Proof: I've done it multiple times with the front tires of my tractor. I put 70 patches on one of the tubes before finally changing it and putting Slime in the new tube. I didn't actually break it down 70 times, though. Sometimes, I'd fix 4 to 8 holes at a time. I was bush hogging, and those wild pear thorns would puncture my tires. Thanks for the video. I bought one of these changers but haven't used it yet. I'm trying to decide where to install it, so it won't be in the way.

What about balancing your tire

Dude! put on some steel toes. You don't wanna be doing the Wahoo Mc Daniel dance if one of those tools falls on your toes! Just saying!

Great way to screw up a good rim!

Range Road has an updated sawmotor bracket and chain adjuster block. Instead of the key being on the block- it’s now on the bracket. It’s made to eliminate the exact issue you’re having. I did it to mine- problem solved!

Also what is moving when you come down on the saw.. it should be in pillow blocks on a welded shaft.. making it impossible to move ..

Ive tried the free fryer oil for a bit but found it was not a good lubricant for the saw.. didnt notice till winter when I had to switch back .. but the saw runs better and longer between sharpening and the bar lasts alot longer.. in the end bar oil is cheaper due to downtime and saw maintenance..

I didn't realize that a tire could be removed without some air power assistance. The main thing I saw with that tool is that the base needs to be bigger so it don't wiggle so much. That movement will eventually pull your anchors out of the floor.