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Thank you, glad you found it helpful

If you're comparing to a old style slow printer yes they are very loud machines to be able to keep up with the flow rates. It is quite a bit quieter then my K1M tho. Not many options to quiet these machines down without having to drop print speeds.

@@JATdesign Yes, you're right.

I tried to print tpu on my k1 max and it seemed to start ok but then gets jammed up. I could potentially see the reason why he feeds directly from above avoiding any friction

correct if you run through a ptfe tube It will not print

Build is nearly done, I did skip the video process during electronics stuff as i have a lot of addons not standard with the kit, with this being a new version of the board and printhead board there was a lot of research time involved. I will have a finished video next week. I have it finished and prints done on it, just need to finish up the tophat.

Mine has been great. Am currently at a little over 600 hours and haven't needed to do anything to the machine. It is pretty well self leveling etc. It would be a very easy machine to start with and would not have a problem recommending it to someone new to printing.

It is so much nicer then my old single filament dryer definitely worth a purchase if it fits your needs. If you don't have 3+ printers I don't know if necessarily recommend this one as there is many dual roll dryers out there that cost about 60% as much and work as well

You should be able to load 85a. Lock the extruder and slowly feed the filament in while it is moving the extruder gears. It should catch and feed normally.

@JATdesign that totally worked 😅 thank you! Excited to finally try out some TPU!

@@Tristaniscool glad I could help

All Bambu machines except the a1 mini have a 256mm volume

@@JATdesignI wonder if it could be shrunk down a little. Only talking about 1/4 right?

@@popsfoodboat4941 the design is pretty minimal to start with. With some spools already basically dragging on the bottom and larger spools coming quite close to the top. Scaling would also affect the fitment of the slides and the screw holes as that is not a variable item. Not to say you couldn't split the stand in half and rejoin them but it would need reinforcement if you started stacking more then a few high.

I can try to help. What durometer? Did you follow all the steps in the video? What problems is it having?

Haha yes currently living in a duplex with very limited space. Racing sim rig is under this table in the corner of my living room with 5 printers on top this inner corner is basically all I have for a "studio". Basically just making due with that I have. Bright side is we bought a house so over the next couple months this will evolve into a much friendlier space. If you check out the filament drawer video it has a better shot of my current layout I'm working with.

Thank you very much.

I agree. I've thought about porting in my own profiles for it into orca (pretty easy). But as for PLA/petg setting so far via Creality slicer I haven't needed to adjust much. Even printing tpu results have been quite good. (Tho I do a fair amount of changing there)

I can't really speak for abs with this ASA I use my k1 max for all my abs work. I do know Creality and profiles are set too low for cooling abs overhangs. I would check that and ramp it up 10-20%. As for supports I am surprised by that. Normally my abs /ASA supports come off easy. Petg/PLA supports on the v3 have come off very well for me.

Have you changed any of the support settings

@JATdesign yeah kinda I'm trying tree (slim) atm I'm still playing with the settings a little bit ill try turning up fan cooling on over hangs

I did not they were open and accessible out of the box on mine.

@@JATdesign will get in touch with Creality I think. Thanks for getting back to me

seems that there are different versions out in the wild as the ones being shipped now do not have the top 2 screw holes and are blanked off under the gantry. They do have 2 m3 holes on the back of the gantry though.

@@bane2000 I will work on modifying the file to snap over the front and utilize the rear two screws.

The stand for nebula cam I am used now is the one that comes with the nebula cam.

@@JATdesign thanks

As far as installing it, it installs the same way. Clips onto the spacers between print head and the v rollers. Then unhook X and Y motors plug the new module in and you're good to go

If you're printing fast the hyper PLA or fast plas do perform slightly better. Regular PLA does print fine with a little more temperature or by slowing the print down some.

In my initial unboxing video I printed a standard wood PLA with the speed benchy file in about 13 minutes with minor defects.

It happens that in Argentina, many new products, ahem: Hyper or fast pla.... do not exist. So bringing it to the country adds an additional cost to the sale of products, and I see that they do not manufacture 4 kl rolls... that's why I asked about the common PLA if they worked well... I now use Grilon3, it is a good National brand quality..., I have 4kl coils and 1kl colored coils. I had to ask for some things from there; ahem: Bi metal barrel, upper mount to adapt the motor above the head... for the 3 ender v2 neo. I use a translator, I don't know much English.

Are you hooked up to the computer or over SD? Over SD you have to use lightburn.

I didn't know you had to use light burn over SD thanks for the help!

I use Amazon basics purple glue stick. I added a link to the description if you'd like. I am currently still using Creality print.

Flex pla was designed a bit more rigid than tpu, I have not personally printed with it. But my understanding is it has been blended with tpu. Which in turn increase its layer bonding by a bit. TPU with a PETG interface is harder then PETG to PLA but should still work for your intention. After slicing, you adjust the layer slider (+) button on the right to the layer where you want the change. Right click on the (+) and select Add Pause. Repeat as needed, then click Slice again. When the pause is reached, the toolhead will go back to the poop chute and wait for you to unload and reload the filament (see my earlier reply.) Then you hit Resume and it will pick up. As for your Z height when im doing pla to to petg interface layers I change it to 0 Z height and the parts pull apart perfectly with 0 signs of an overhang. But on your curved piece that would be much more difficult also specific i don't think you can pause it only for supports.

If it is scraping the bed I would likely put a ticket in to Creality. I have not had any issues with my Z sensor mine is extremely sensitive to the probing process

@@JATdesign mine seems to be about 0.05 off.

@@innui100 you can adjust z offset in your slicer settings

@@JATdesign I'm using Creality Printer and can't find that setting. I can set it on the printer though.

I just need to do it every time.

It's a version of Klipper screen called guppy screen. Something you can do when you root the machine.

Thank you for the reply. I’ll look into it.

updated link Thank you I can work on uploading the print profile, but will be next week.

@@JATdesign Thank you, please reply once you've uploaded it so I'll get a notification. Appreciate your work!

@@JATdesign Are you able to share the print profile for creality print please. Really struggling to get TPU to work with this printer. Thanks

@@bane2000 video goes through each setting I changed. Did you download/install the top mount? TPU will not work if fed through the ptfe tube

@@JATdesign I am using a top mount (yours, just drilled two holes for the m3 bolts). Bed adheasion a problem and also the hot end clicks a lot and seems like the cpu filament is struggling to be pushed through. I noted all the settings changes in your video and applied them but still no joy. Just printing with PLA can be a bit limiting :(. Thanks for responding though

I have not. I have my k1 max setup for tpu but I'm not opposed to making a TPU video for this machine

Just tried tpu in the standard filament setup and how I have it. As expected Too much drag on the system and I will need to make a mount that attaches to the top of the machine similar to how the old enders do it. I will work on that likely tonight and update if I get a finished product.

Just an update on this I have the TPU spool Mount designed, test printing now then i will release the design to Maker World and Creality print. I will follow up with a test video with links to it all.

Through Creality print you can do all of that without any external apps or needs. But means this is a rootable klipper device you can do anything you can with klipper. So yes octoprint etc will work on this machine

I have the creality app alert me when finished and also monitor remotely on both my K1 max and this v3. Even tho my K1 is rooted all Creality functionality still fully works

@@JATdesign Awesome, yeah I just saw that it is rootable. I cant wait to mess with it! This will be my first experience with klipper.

@@Tristaniscool it's a significant improvement over the v2 for sure

@@JATdesign I finally got mine in! Are you just using the default PLA profile on creality print? My first layers are coming out a little rough... not sure what is causing it, almost seems like the z offset is a bit too low.

I do have another video up about the diamond back nozzle. It runs around 90$. I'll add a link to this video too.

It has been incredibly nice to only have one nozzle and not have to swap for different materials. Petg doesn't ball up on it like it does on hardened nozzles etc.

@@JATdesign thank you

I've actually been looking into something like that. The printers running in the background really don't help the situation. I do agree it would help a lot. And fairly budget friendly ones you'd recommend?

Doesn't appear he did anything wrong, Looks like it is possible he got a bad apple. In another live stream of his he has had that machine for quite a while just never set it up, it is likely a pre release model that could have had issues. I am currently at 100 print hours with mine so far and will be releasing an update video soon when i get closer to 200 hours.

No experience with the tungston one. After issues with the hardened nozzles constantly blobbing and having to run so much heat I just bit the bullet. My experience so far has been great with the diamond. There's no blobbing, temps stay the same as with the copper nozzles settings. And I don't have to reduce speeds like I did with the hardened version. The biggest thing with the diamond is the heat transfer is better than brass.

@@JATdesignAny concerns about the diamond tip being dislodged? I heard of such thing happening with nozzles that are different material inserts.

@@erik3205 have not seen any reports of that issue with these ones. Possibly with one of the cheaper brands out there. I know some Bambu machines with the inserts have that issue but every time I see it the person is running constantly either at 300c or over 300c.

Good to hear. Not sure what my next video will be yet. Getting a sunlu s4 filadryer a ender v3 and a phrozen arco so I'm sure I'll have some videos of those.