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@@katywalker8322 The pistons were all corroded but not bad enough that a quick polish on my wheel didn’t sort out pretty quickly. Kind of like polishing a crank or camshaft…same approach. The blueing on the bolts works well - just not as well as had they been coated by a pro, but certainly better than standard bolts without a coating. You can’t use stainless steel hardware to join the calliper halves because they’re not as strong as the grade 8 or 9 bolts that these are. I just bought the aftermarket sight glasses of Amazon. I bought about 3 or 4 different brands and found a good quality one that I bought 10 for keeping in stock. I can’t recall by memory (I’m at work right now for 3 weeks) but one of the sight glasses required a spacer since it was a different depth.

@@KensWorldRestorations pistons for me had minor pits. I could have used some of them if really necessary (the pits wouldn't have reached the hydraulic seals), but wasn't happy to do so when doing so much work. I have used titanium bolts (M10x45, 1.25mm thread). Yamaha do not list the bolts as seperate parts. I was otherwise going to use 10.9 bolts. The bolts holding the calipers to the forks were surprisingly cheap from Yamaha new - the bolts for the disks are surprisingly expensive from Yamaha (I bought them from Yambits instead I think) I have the original Yamaha caliper bolts (several sets from several sets of calipers - the early FZ750 front calipers see to easily have a chunk break off for the dust seal), so I will clean some up, blue them and then abuse them to see how well they survive. I am a hoarder so they won't get thrown away anyway. I bought the windows from a few different suppliers but they all seemed to be the same when they arrived! I will see if I can find some others

@@katywalker8322 Haha!! Salt water!! So true! I ended up getting Hagon to make me a custom shock. It is fully adjustable and looks totally OEM. The differences between bikes are often because of the market segment. Export bikes to Canada never got the oil coolers so you have to be careful when you order things like oil pumps, cases, pipes, etc, because there are lots of variations. Even the handlebar switches are different. The good thing is that now that these bikes are, for the most part, vintage, we’re free to do whatever we want. I was looking at adding the oil cooler to my bike but then realized the engine cases are different and I wasn’t about to drill holes in it.

@@KensWorldRestorations , the FZR600 was very much done on a budget (it had been my cheapy commuter, then sat for years, then given to a local mechanic on the basis he could have it for free as long as it was restored, then I got it back when he decided he would never get around to it - then once rebuilt I had no space for it so gave it to a friend), hence a reasonable price shock was a major factor. I did the wheels in a nice white - child of the 80s so white socks! Seem to be a few ways Yamaha did the oil coolers. Think Suzuki mainly connected them to the sump plate, which makes swapping engines between bikes a bit easier. One of my next tasks is to do the CAD work for the 2 piece chain slider so it can be 3D printed.

Yes, you can. There are a number of fixes and helicoil is certainly one of them. The other is you can weld the hole, drill and tap as well...turns out there's lot of options but I just hadn't ever come across that before and I tend to overthink everything. HA! Yeah...I was surprise too. They were pretty stuck in the head but I managed to recover all 8 of them.

@ one I can’t get one of the exhaust studs out of my fz750. Very very stuck. Wonder how the thread became damaged on the caliper. I have Cerakoted the fz calipers and just rebuilt them (then found out I have the wrong fronts pads!)

@@katywalker8322 I had to use a bit of heat from a propane torch heating up the block and trying to avoid the stud. I eventually freed them up with a pair of vice grips - the two bolt locking nut idea wouldn't work. The rear calliper was just cross threaded due to dirt and impatience...happens a lot actually. The entire bike was serviced like that. I hear the cerakote is great stuff! Very durable.

​@@KensWorldRestorationsheat hasn't worked so far. I need to take it to a friend who is a good welder, and hopefully a nut can be welded on the remains. Cerakote is a very thin coating, and not wrecked by brake fluid. Useful for some things. During COVID I did a couple of brake calipers in bright pink for fun!

@@katywalker8322 That was going to be my next suggestion...weld a nut on and then that should do it. Love the bright pink idea! The rear FZR caliper is the same as my front calipers on the Virago.

This is just a basic FZR1000 Genesis. Our engines are very near identical with just a few minor differences and the 6 speed of the 750s. My brother found a near-mint collection of the entire year of Cycle Magazine for 1987. The July issue had a great article of the 750 and 1000 and was on the front cover...soooo cool!!! He also found me a mint owners manual too!!

@ , at times I have been tempted to put a 1000 engine in the 750 frame. Sometimes people have put the 6 speed box into the 1000 engine, or 1000 pistons into the 750 (from memory, gives you 911cc). I also have a Bimota Dieci, which used the EXUP engine (early version of the EXUP engine). A nice engine, but not fun to work on in the Bimota frame.

@@katywalker8322 Very cool!!! I've heard of someone with the 1000 put the 6 speed in it. Cool stuff.

The coils and caps are completely isolated electrically from the TCI. The TCI only provides a "trigger" pulse which is essentially a ground. You won't do any damage to the TCI by changing the ignition coils or the resistance in the caps. The coils I bought were from Ali Express in China - they are fairly generic but have the pins in different locations from the originals.

Wow!! You've got some real gems!! Those are unicorns! I can't wait to ride this thing...it's winter here in Calgary and I'm getting withdrawals...

Yeah...I took a torch and an impact wrench to it...I have to get a bigger impact gun...that was brutal!

It only gets torqued to 50 ft lb, and the splines on the thread are very fine, there is also a lock washer that hold the nut in place so there’s no need do it up super tight.

@@uhtred7860 That was the original too...not sure why, but I'm guessing just 38 years of being stuck.

@@uhtred7860 BTW...your fairing is on it's way my friend!!!

@ Legend!

The appraiser dude is coming in the spring...I'll give you his number. There might be something in it for you. Thanks so much!!! I can't wait to ride it too! It'll be a dream come true when it's finally on the road. The digital calliper and the torque wrench are new...one of the aircraft engineers from work sold them to me! Looking forward to more of your FZR riding videos.

Thanks! Getting close to finishing the engine.

You'll need a magnifying glass or really good eyes. They have a small number stamped on them. It's hard to see when they're dirty or corroded and easier when they're clean. Even the pin has a tiny marking (Y-32) on it showing what size it is. Very hard to see.

Thanks!! Always loved the look of this year Virago - even though the gold bits wouldn't be right any where else, they just seem to suit this vintage perfectly. I love the sound of this bike and the way it accelerates...not a lot of HP but just gobs of torque which makes it so much fun.

@@KensWorldRestorations Moving in reasonable speed ranges, this performance is enough in my opinion. The driving dynamics seen in the video are appropriate. You shouldn't be in too much of a hurry with this machine, you have to give the eyes time so that people can notice and admire it.

For the 84/85 XV1000, the rear idler gear is 4X7-15512-00-00 and the matching starter clutch assembly is 5A8-15570-00-00. The new style idler gear assembly is 3LP-W1551-00-00 and fits everything from 1984 to 1999. Just make sure you match your rear idler gear with the proper starter clutch.

You are the best!!!​@@KensWorldRestorations

No, sorry I don't. I was just starting out and I missed that one. I feel your pain - too many scraped knuckles there. You might have to cut a slot with a Dremel tool or something. When you get it free, most people are replacing those bolts with Allen type heads. Sorry I couldn't be of any help on this one.

@ got it free with some cussing but thank you so much for the for the reply. You’re a legend and a half at making these restoration videos. I have a virago 1000 85 and my gf wants the other one your fixing up or have already fixed up.

@@michaelmunguia9922 Great to hear!! Thanks for the kind words too. Probably see if you can find a bolt with an Allen head... easier to get out next time. Are you in Canada? I'm thinking about putting it up for sale in the spring.

On order...

Thanks, mate!! I know I tend to babble on...so my wife says. But thank you for the kind words. I think we all have an obligation to help each other out and keep these legends on the road. I've got some really boring carb videos too but yours are Mikuni. Just a really good cleaning, ultrasonic if you can, and watch the ethanol fuels. Good luck with everything.

It's all in the details and sometimes having to deal with second hand work is worse than just trying to get the job done first. It's a subtle detail but those inner caliper halves are identical and switching them would be easy. I racked my brain for two full days before I finally gave up and took them to the shop. It cost me $200 in labor but when I noticed the bleed screws on the top, I called the shop right away and got the explanation I needed. Glad it all helped out.

That's what it sounds like - the headlight ring should be pretty much perpendicular to the ground and straight in line with the frame/handlebars when the front wheel is straight. That's a good starting point. The two adjustment screws (M5x30 I think) should be around mid range and the lens should be nearly centred in the headlight outer ring. If it's anything other than that, someone's mucked around with it.

@@arizonaangler_2A In electrical theory, I=E/R where I is current, E is electromotive force (voltage) and R is resistance. Anytime you increase the resistance, current flow is inversely proportional. So if theoretical voltage remains constant (E) and you increase R, I (current) decreases. Creating a gap between the boot and the plug doesn’t change resistance in the circuit at all, you’re just unloading a massive amount of energy that the coils couldn’t dissipate when the plug wasn’t attached to the spark plug. When it comes to the high voltage and short duration (microseconds) of a spark event, there’s a lot more going on that just basic DC electric theory. What you’re seeing is a result of reactance, capacitance and inductance in the circuit that would be very difficult to diagnose. But basic DC electric theory is pretty clear, add more resistance and the current goes down. Decrease the resistance and the current goes up - just short out a battery with a screwdriver to prove it works. Long explanation but I hope it helps.

@@KensWorldRestorations ahh I see, thanks

I remember that bike!! A good friend of mine had one! What a great sound and a beast at the time. Another iconic bike going back on the road!

I was planning on selling it in the spring to make way for a bike for my wife and the next restoration when the FZR1000 is done. Shoot me an email at kensworldrestorations@gmail.com. Cheers.

@@walterbuckhannon3947 Not counting the 500/700/750 sizes, the Virago was 920cc from 1981-83, 1000cc from 84 to 85 and from 1986 to 1999 it was 1100cc. It wasn’t until well into the VStar era did Yamaha make bigger displacement engines. If it’s a 1995 it’s an 1100cc engine unless someone swapped it out. Definitely the best years were from 95 to 99 when production ended. By that time all the starter problems were sorted out, the carbs were the most modern and overall the bike was pretty reliable if serviced properly.

@KensWorldRestorations Thanks for the information, Sir. I appreciate it very much.

Left side is the choke cable and sorry about that - I was still new at making videos and missed this.

I'm not sure I understand the question. If you replace the OEM coils with another brand, the OEM spec in the manual no longer applies - you'll need to follow the specification of the new coils. Does that answer your question?

I love reading comments like this! Thanks so much. As I never really consider myself an expert, I don't ever want to label my vides as "how to" videos. I just want to share the experience and if someone else benefits, I'm happy. Take care.

I'm actually still trying to figure it out. It's winter here now and riding is over but I had 3 BL/BK wires and got my backlighting on the instruments back but the self-cancelling signals stopped working. I'll have to just alternate wires until I get it back.

Hi Robert...thanks for the great comment. I love when people take the time to watch and comment. I think Yamaha wanted to get the bike to market for 87 because of a long list of new designs they wanted to test. The frame was one. That aluminum delta box was straight out of the GP world for street use along with a host of other bits. The engine was still in its infancy and there were a lot of strain at the time to streamline a lot of the manufacturing processes. Until the EXUP design, which is what you still see in todays designs, the cam followers, lifters, shims and springs were all unique to that first generation. Sadly, Yamaha has abandoned many of the Gen 1 parts (87-88) and finding things like valves and shims are nearly impossible. There is no support from Yamaha and there is very little left in the NOS/OEM world either. All we have left is used and "make as you go". I have no idea why the head was designed this way - probably because of left over parts from the FZ750 until they got the 89's rolling off the assembly line. I'm pretty lucky to have found a shop that can do all the machining I need as well as having a lot of experience (and some good used parts) for this bike.

I've struck it lucky with a nearby shop who has spare parts - and oddly hundreds of shims. He's got the head and is going to be machining all the valve seats and I've found some valves that we'll be able to grind so I can get it all back together soon. I've also got some RFPs in with some valve manufacturers to see if anyone would be interested in reproducing these oddball valves & shims. Pretty happy to have options now.

@@KensWorldRestorations did u check Abuso think they may do em

@@KensWorldRestorations there’s a place called shims Australia that do the shims good price too

@@karlvanboxel561 Thanks for that...I just found some here in Calgary as well as a supplier in the US. Cheers!

@ they do. Also found a local place. I got lucky.

I saw it happen once too...still cringe every time I think about it.

I loved my FJ1100. Had the RZ500 too so I was hoping this would be something in between. I've got an EBC upgrade kit for the clutch so hopefully that will help. It'll be taken for regular rides when it's done but no hard days.

@KensWorldRestorations It should be about that. Tyre technology went to radial for 17" wheels which made the biggest difference in Tyre performance. I got through metzler comp k rear every 1000 miles which was the deal breaker after a few k miles.

Hello Johnny!!!

Thanks - I found a head in Germany complete with valves that looks ok. I might have to collect a bunch of them to get ones that are ok to grind and resurface. If not, another option is custom made valves - there's a few race shops out there that will do that. Stainless steel would be nice.

Abuso might do new valves they definately do ti retainers. The small ends on these have a tendency to elongate full synthetic helps

@@karlvanboxel561 Thanks so much for the info. I checked with them yesterday and apparently I'm not the first to request it. Paulo was pretty clear that they don't make them and I'm not so sure he'd be interested unless there was a large order placed. Still not out of the question - there's a lot more interest in these bikes lately.

Thanks!! Yes, they can grind the valve seats and that's what they'll be doing. The exhaust valves are fine but the intake valves are cupped and he was fearing that if he grinds the faces flat to spec, they may be too small in diameter after the grinding. I ordered a whole head with valves from eBay but the order was cancelled so I'm still looking for intake valves.

Me too Chris!! Like I mentioned in the video, I was hoping to keep it stock concourse restoration but I think having it as a daily rider would be kind of cool. I have a few other "minor" mods that I'll be doing as well.

@@ChrisSofos Those Wiseco pistons are almost too good to be hidden away inside the engine 😆 they are truly things of beauty.😀

@@uhtred7860 I'll take lots of photos of them!! Hahahaha!

Love, love, love the comment Ash!! I had so much of it done over the last couple months. I wanted to add in a bit just for you but I'll save it for the next video. After dropping all the stuff off at the machine shop, I was happy to know that the guy was a veteran and expert of the old FZ750/FZR series.

The Yamaha engineers were cutting edge at the time. No doubt there is so much to consider. I can't wait to get all the engine parts serviced and repaired so I can get it all back together.

That's exactly what my machinist said!!

I'll take you up on that offer for the intake valves...just emailed you. Thanks so much.

Hey Nick! My email is kensworldrestorations@gmail.com. Cheers!!

Thanks! All I did for this video was make sure the water pump and thermostat were working. The old coolant looked pretty bad so I just drained and flushed it with water. To get the engine running, I just used water and it was drained right away for the tear down. I'm planning on using a high quality coolant when everything goes back together but I haven't decided on what yet. I've got the engine tore down and ready for repairs and that video should be coming in the next few days.

@@buster9538 very soon. I’m still in my 3 week shift up in northern Alberta. I fly EMS helicopter in a remote area of northern Canada and I’ll be home on Thursday.

@@KensWorldRestorations Take care, have a nice flight

こんにちは。 タイミングチェーンテンショナーかガイドが壊れているようです。 これは深刻な問題である可能性があるため、音の原因を確認できるまでエンジンを慎重に回転させてください。 David Balogh によるタイミング チェーンを変更する優れたビデオがあります。 エンジンを降ろしてヘッドを外して点検してくださいとしか言​​えません。 申し訳ありませんが、もっと良いお手伝いができれば幸いです。

Wow…hat’s off to you for not breaking anything!!! Everything side those cases is so fragile. Like working on a plastic watch.