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Thanks for watching!

Hi! Thanks for watching! No, you’re not doing anything wrong. When you move the cam into timing mark you’ll be pushing against the tension of the valve. It’s really tight. You need about 12 hands to hold the cam in place, and thread the chain!

@@ratmotors903 Thank you! This helped a lot!

Hi! Thanks for watching! Rex’s Speed shop rexs-speedshop.com/

Hi! All original, just cleaned and polished. The main jets were new however as I was changing sizes. Sourced these from Common Motor Collective. Make sure you degunk the lot, and run a guitar sting or similar through the holes in emulsion tubes.

Disconnect the throttle cables from each carb, disconnect the air filter and take out, apply a little heat to intake rubbers (carb to engine) and give a little wiggle. Can be a bit of a fight to wrestle them out!

@@ratmotors903 Thank you. I did it today with help from my brother in law. We rebuild both carburetors But it turn out that the right intake valve is stuck. Big trouble

I’m not sure there is. You could go through the sump possibly, I know you can access gears from there but have never done it myself. It’d be cramped and hard to see. You could flip bike or lift it to access 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hi! Thanks for watching. No I haven’t. I’m no expert but would say that the jets would need looking at if it’s only that far out. Same as if they were more than 3 turns out.

Hi! Thanks for watching. Not sure which you mean. The handle bar clamps should have a slight gap at the bottom bolt, tight at the top. Triple tree at the top the fasteners are at the sides of the forks gaps pointing outwards. The bottom yoke will be pointing the same way to hold the forks. Fasteners will be on the inside of the forks.

Hi! Thanks so much for watching. The bronze bushings are fantastic. I bought some generic type from EBay which worked well. Just check that they’re oilite (I think that’s how it’s spelt!) oil impregnated bronze. There’s these from Charlie’s Place in the US too www.charlies-place.com/product-category/bronze-swing-arm-bushings/ Cheers Rich

Hi. No just lining the timing marks is fine 👍

Hi, metric (mm) if memory serves me right!

Chain length is a fixed/standard length on the chain I bought. Specifically for this engine. It just needs breaking and re-connecting through the head.

I think hes talking about getting one side short and one side long did you just fiddle with it off the crank rotate chain then fiddle back onto crank?

Why waste yours and my time making pointless comments. Watch something else.

Hi. I suppose so. I’d be worried about slippage though. Freezing them to aid drifting them is useful.

Thanks for watching! Yes, some parts are getting incredibly hard to find. The only place that list parts like this I’ve come across is cmnsl who stock a large range of oem and nos parts for most Japanese models. Again, these are not currently available!

@seayak try common motors they have everything for Honda cbs

@@xXUNDERLORD77Xx Alas not this one....

What’s your issue with the bike?

You need to push against the teeth with a brass punch or similar to move the cam against the valves.

@@ratmotors903 I am but the cam kinda just springs back I’m kinda struggling lol

Thanks so much for the feedback, and thanks for watching! Fantastic bikes these little Hondas.

Hi! Thanks for watching! Yes, it will feel like that as you’ve got to push against the valves as you line it up. Brass punch or similar to hold it. Worse case, it could also be that there’s some chain in the bottom end. I’d check the broken chain carefully to see if there’s anything missing.

Not to my knowledge. It just controls either how much air or fuel (depending on siting) is engaged before the throttle is twisted. Slides are moved by the throttle and are a different circuit in the system.

I'm assuming leaving the idle screw at a point where the slide is visually about 3mm. Once all four are synced the idle can be adjusted when started?

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Don’t worry, it fought me every bit of the way. This is the second time round. I did a complete crank up rebuild. Most JIS fasteners on the engine needed drilling out, I had to enlarged and tap most threads in the cylinder head and a re-bore to fix some major scoring in the cylinders. Can certainly sympathise with the fight! I had a lot of use out of my manual impact driver as it came apart the first time.

Hi! Thanks for watching. I will be, currently on a CB450 rebuild. You can see that on the channel too 👍

Hi! Thanks for watching! It’s heat shrink. Comes in various diameters, nice thick rubber type. Got mine from vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-58-sleeving/p-539-heat-shrink-sleeving

@@ratmotors903 thanks for the reply.. I was thinking more the tape you wound round the wire, like insulation tape ?

That’s a cloth type loom wrap. Same website. It’s adhesives but only sticks to itself so doesn’t make the wires sticky. Bit of heat shrink either end just to secure it in place.

Thanks for watching! Labour of love these old bikes. This one has fought me most of the way so far 😁

Hi, xj900 has a combined regulator/rectifier on it. This has the voltage regulator inside. Best place I’ve found for parts is yambits.

@@ratmotors903 ok, thanks friend

Can you make a video on how to place the voltage rectifier regulator in the xj900? I'm new to this and I would like that little help. I would really appreciate it.

Hi, without seeing it it's difficult to say. You do however hit the compression stroke 360 degrees (full engine turn) again on LT? I'm assuming you think that install needs to be on the compression stroke i.e all three marks line up on compression stroke? They should line up on the 'off' stroke. The cam lobes determine which 'stroke' occurs when and don't change relative to the index marks so as long as all three marks were aligned when you put it on you should be fine.

​@@ratmotors903 Thanks for your answer. I installed and lined up everything on the offstroke. If i turn the engine to the compression stroke on the left cylinder, the marks on the cams are not align like before on the offstroke. But i am glad that i asked you. At the weeked i planed to reinstall the cam aligned on the compression stroke. So now i can safe that time.

Hi, thanks for your feedback. Honestly, I ended up in a total confusion of settings, jet sizes, filter densities, exhausts, manuals and ended up resting on this combination. The exhausts are brand new so no carbon deposits as yet. I had stutters at 3-4 on tachometer so upped the jet sizes slowly. Ended up with 145 and found it impossible to idle. Wet plugs too. Dropped it back down. Had big issues with feeling which I then thought could explain the stuttering at higher rpms. There’s a lot of conflicting info. Clymer, Haynes and Honda service manual all state different jet sizes. 125 or 130. For mums again are a little conflicting. I’ve gone with the 125s for now and will assess the situation as I get going. I dare say I’ll end up somewhere around 130/135. I’d really love to source some original air boxes! Thanks for your input.

@@ratmotors903 Yes, that's what I've been reading...the pods cause all kinds of idle and stuttering problems at mid rpms. I plan to keep the airbox.

Definitely keep the airbox if you can. Pods were so difficult to get right.

Hi, I’m working on it right now. Not sure how useful it’ll be but I’m doing a complete re-wire using the factory diagram.

@@ratmotors903 Can’t wait to see it! I’ve just discovered I’ve been working with the wrong harness so it’s back to square one. This is my first rebuild so I’ve had a lot of screwups but your bids are super helpful!

No problem, you’re welcome! This is the second loom I’ve built. Did my xs1100 loom which was very complex. The 450 I’m finding is not too bad from the diagram. I’m treating it as lighting circuit and then charging/ignition circuit.

Thanks so much for watching! Beautiful bikes.

Thanks so much for watching! Soon I hope...I'm currently in the middle of making a new wiring loom. A much bigger job than I originally thought!

Thanks for watching. I love the bike and love tinkering with it.

Hi. There’s a few different hoses. There’s the larger hose from the T piece which is fuel, from the fuel tap there’s a vacuum hose as well. The cluster of hoses underneath the carbs are overflow from the float bowls. You’ll want these routed so of there’s overflow of fuel it exits under the bike. I think they tuck behind the crankcase pointing down. The other two fuel and vacuum head up to the fuel tap.

Thanks Terry, great tip 👍

Thank you. Really appreciate you watching.

Jeez, you could buy a new one for that!

Thanks for watching 👍

@@ratmotors903 tienes wasap por favor