- 83
- 140 963
Th0rnblade
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2009
Bang & Olufsen Beomaster 3000-2 receiver (made in Denmark - 1969-75)
Imgur gallery: imgur.com/gallery/bang-olufsen-beomaster-3000-2-receiver-made-denmark-1969-75-VXcR7Cl
Bang & Olufsen Beomaster 3000-2 receiver. A wonder of aesthetics, winner of the "IF Award" in 1972, designed by Jacob Jensen, and a model featured in the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
I purchased this unit as functional... somewhat.
It had many issues, and some are still not fully resolved, but I don’t want to take any more risks with it. First of all, the audio amplification was completely off. Someone before me had attempted to replace the output transistors on one channel and then probably gave up. After much struggle and more swearing (being a compact construction, everything is crammed in), I disassembled it and measured all the output transistors-they were fine. Four wasted hours of my life. Then I checked the drivers. I compared the two channels, checked the diodes, resistors, and electrolytic capacitors-all replaced (including the tantalum ones). In the end, the issue was a troublesome BC242 way before the outputs. After that, the horrible channel returned to a somewhat normal state. I say "somewhat" because, surprise, a couple of power resistors on the power side were also out of spec. I adjusted the idle current; everything was okay, and the heatsink was just warm during normal operation... normal but not quite, because about six months later, I discovered that the audio amplifier developed another issue-transistor noise. It’s hard to describe, manifesting as a sort of crackling/rain, with volume fluctuating up and down, regardless of the volume and tone adjustments on the potentiometers. Anyone who has encountered this will recognize it immediately. Having dealt with similar issues in other amplifiers, I began my investigation quite confidently. I quickly found the culprit-a BC184 in the preamp, after the tone corrections. It measured with a beta/hfe of 10, plus a diode in parallel with it... I replaced it with a BC547 and then also swapped its neighbor, a BC149, which was still okay but a bit suspect, as a precaution. Although only one channel was affected by this problem, for the sake of symmetry, I replaced both transistors there as well. Everything returned to normal after that; the background noise disappeared.
The other MAJOR issue with it, and the reason I do NOT recommend anyone buy similar Bang & Olufsen products from that era- the keys, ALL of them, are terrible. The contacts are oxidized, but to access them properly, you need to disassemble almost the entire receiver. Given how cramped it is, I’m really afraid I won’t be able to put it back together correctly. It would have been somewhat feasible if the damned keyboard hadn’t been glued to a plastic sheet with copper traces on it. It’s the first time I’ve seen such a mess in a product that claims to be of quality. It feels like a slap in the face to anyone trying to repair it. If I wanted to peel off the keyboard, I risk melting the damned plastic where the copper traces are... pff... so it’s better to leave it. I flooded the whole keyboard with contact spray; the situation improved a bit, at least now the receiver executes all functions. However, the keys are still difficult to press and noisy... giving the feeling of “it’s going to break” with every press.
The markings on the sliding scale and the potentiometer buttons were worn off, so I repainted them as best I could. I also tried to clean and reduce the yellowing of the transparent plastic parts; I left them for a whole day with hydrogen peroxide, exposed to the sun... but to no avail. Oh well, that’s life. Most of them on the internet are unfortunately yellowed.
I've also put some woodgrain sticker over the original wood veneer case which was badly scratched.
Another issue-the transformer-is placed in a metal box, encased in epoxy resin, but after heating up, it starts to hum after about 20 minutes. Annoying, as it could be heard even with the casing on the receiver. I have about 30 receivers from the 60s to 80s, and none of them have a noisy transformer, except for this one. And no, it’s not just my unit; the entire internet complains about the transformer in this model.I put a lot of hot glue around the transformer; now it’s somewhat acceptable, and it’s possible to listen to music on it without the buzzing at 50 hertz.
As for FM, I extended it to 108 quite easily, changed the Zener diode for the varicap voltage, and then adjusted the voltages. As a radio, it works properly with good sensitivity. The audio amplifier is also good to excellent (very good tone corrections) nothing to complain about... once repaired.
For devices from that period, I recommend staying away from this model and instead getting something solid and durable from Grundig, Braun, Nordmende, Telefunken, Saba, or Blaupunkt. All of them are far superior in terms of ease of repair, and most of their Hi-Fi products are at least equal in performance, some even surpassing the Beomaster.
Bang & Olufsen Beomaster 3000-2 receiver. A wonder of aesthetics, winner of the "IF Award" in 1972, designed by Jacob Jensen, and a model featured in the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
I purchased this unit as functional... somewhat.
It had many issues, and some are still not fully resolved, but I don’t want to take any more risks with it. First of all, the audio amplification was completely off. Someone before me had attempted to replace the output transistors on one channel and then probably gave up. After much struggle and more swearing (being a compact construction, everything is crammed in), I disassembled it and measured all the output transistors-they were fine. Four wasted hours of my life. Then I checked the drivers. I compared the two channels, checked the diodes, resistors, and electrolytic capacitors-all replaced (including the tantalum ones). In the end, the issue was a troublesome BC242 way before the outputs. After that, the horrible channel returned to a somewhat normal state. I say "somewhat" because, surprise, a couple of power resistors on the power side were also out of spec. I adjusted the idle current; everything was okay, and the heatsink was just warm during normal operation... normal but not quite, because about six months later, I discovered that the audio amplifier developed another issue-transistor noise. It’s hard to describe, manifesting as a sort of crackling/rain, with volume fluctuating up and down, regardless of the volume and tone adjustments on the potentiometers. Anyone who has encountered this will recognize it immediately. Having dealt with similar issues in other amplifiers, I began my investigation quite confidently. I quickly found the culprit-a BC184 in the preamp, after the tone corrections. It measured with a beta/hfe of 10, plus a diode in parallel with it... I replaced it with a BC547 and then also swapped its neighbor, a BC149, which was still okay but a bit suspect, as a precaution. Although only one channel was affected by this problem, for the sake of symmetry, I replaced both transistors there as well. Everything returned to normal after that; the background noise disappeared.
The other MAJOR issue with it, and the reason I do NOT recommend anyone buy similar Bang & Olufsen products from that era- the keys, ALL of them, are terrible. The contacts are oxidized, but to access them properly, you need to disassemble almost the entire receiver. Given how cramped it is, I’m really afraid I won’t be able to put it back together correctly. It would have been somewhat feasible if the damned keyboard hadn’t been glued to a plastic sheet with copper traces on it. It’s the first time I’ve seen such a mess in a product that claims to be of quality. It feels like a slap in the face to anyone trying to repair it. If I wanted to peel off the keyboard, I risk melting the damned plastic where the copper traces are... pff... so it’s better to leave it. I flooded the whole keyboard with contact spray; the situation improved a bit, at least now the receiver executes all functions. However, the keys are still difficult to press and noisy... giving the feeling of “it’s going to break” with every press.
The markings on the sliding scale and the potentiometer buttons were worn off, so I repainted them as best I could. I also tried to clean and reduce the yellowing of the transparent plastic parts; I left them for a whole day with hydrogen peroxide, exposed to the sun... but to no avail. Oh well, that’s life. Most of them on the internet are unfortunately yellowed.
I've also put some woodgrain sticker over the original wood veneer case which was badly scratched.
Another issue-the transformer-is placed in a metal box, encased in epoxy resin, but after heating up, it starts to hum after about 20 minutes. Annoying, as it could be heard even with the casing on the receiver. I have about 30 receivers from the 60s to 80s, and none of them have a noisy transformer, except for this one. And no, it’s not just my unit; the entire internet complains about the transformer in this model.I put a lot of hot glue around the transformer; now it’s somewhat acceptable, and it’s possible to listen to music on it without the buzzing at 50 hertz.
As for FM, I extended it to 108 quite easily, changed the Zener diode for the varicap voltage, and then adjusted the voltages. As a radio, it works properly with good sensitivity. The audio amplifier is also good to excellent (very good tone corrections) nothing to complain about... once repaired.
For devices from that period, I recommend staying away from this model and instead getting something solid and durable from Grundig, Braun, Nordmende, Telefunken, Saba, or Blaupunkt. All of them are far superior in terms of ease of repair, and most of their Hi-Fi products are at least equal in performance, some even surpassing the Beomaster.
มุมมอง: 535
วีดีโอ
Saba HiFi Studio Freiburg Stereo Receiver (Built in W Germany, circa 1967)
มุมมอง 1.4Kหลายเดือนก่อน
This is a Saba HiFi Studio Freiburg Stereo receiver. A rare bird, I've been dreaming about it for about 5 years... this year I managed to find it; I didn't even hesitate to negotiate with the seller, I bought it immediately, about 2 hours after the ad was posted :) I believe it’s the only one in Romania anyway. I would be really curious to find out if anyone else has something like this... they...
NordMende Galaxy Mesa 7000 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1971-73)
มุมมอง 2Kปีที่แล้ว
Imgur gallery: imgur.com/gallery/l8gC3HC Got this radio from the internet as "in good functioning order". That was a joke, the seller served me the usual bull that people use on selling sites as to fool people and get rid of their things. But I was totally expecting the trouble, so I've put myself to the challenge. After the first inspection - aesthetically not perfect - it misses a chromed orn...
Loewe Opta T50 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1969-70)
มุมมอง 548ปีที่แล้ว
Imgur gallery: imgur.com/gallery/0qLCjWn Got this radio off the internet, still working apparently. I say "apparently" because while it did work okay on AM, on the FM band it was a disaster, very insensitive. Turned out to be the classical Loewe disease (I say this because this is the third radio from the era that I got with the same fault) - one of those BF 125 transistors went almost dead. It...
Blaupunkt Derby de Luxe 7.659 radio (Made in W Germany, circa 1969-70)
มุมมอง 1.2Kปีที่แล้ว
Imgur photo gallery: imgur.com/gallery/ZkjULAA Got this radio off of the internet, supposedly functional. Aesthetically it was okay, the regular dust everywhere but the case was good, no cracks. Not small was my surprise when once opened i saw inside the case that someone not only had replaced the audio output transistors, but had replaced the original germanium ones with modern silicone ones.....
Blaupunkt Derby 691 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1969-70)
มุมมอง 715ปีที่แล้ว
Imgur gallery: imgur.com/gallery/LUDyMq6 Got this radio here full of dirt but still working. Biggest headache with it was the cleaning, those vertical grills on the front panel aren't too easy to clean. Anyways, I also replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, straightened the antenna and re-installed the loose tone potentiometer. The battery cover was loose, the hinge broken, so I had to drill...
SABA RX145 radio ( probably made in China mid-late 80s)
มุมมอง 507ปีที่แล้ว
imgur photo gallery: imgur.com/gallery/F6AByz5 Got this radio still functional, albeit dirty as hell and with battery alkali leaked all over. Well, I did not have much to do to it, general cleaning and capacitors changed. It is a mediocre radio at best. The shortwave bands are a joke. The regular MW and LW are hmm, mediocre, the FM works okay... but that is in city conditions. The tuning indica...
Telefunken Partner 605 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1979-80)
มุมมอง 507ปีที่แล้ว
Telefunken Partner 605 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1979-80)
Philips 90AL 970 /00S radio (made in Japan, circa 1980-81)
มุมมอง 13K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Philips 90AL 970 /00S radio (made in Japan, circa 1980-81)
Telefunken bajazzo sport TS 201 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1969-72)
มุมมอง 1.8K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Telefunken bajazzo sport TS 201 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1969-72)
ElectroMures AS 15201 amplifier (Communist Romania ~ 1985) + Toshiba KT-4568 walkman (Japan~1987-88)
มุมมอง 5592 ปีที่แล้ว
ElectroMures AS 15201 amplifier (Communist Romania ~ 1985) Toshiba KT-4568 walkman (Japan~1987-88)
SABA Transeuropa Automatic G radio (made in W Germany, circa 1972)
มุมมอง 3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
SABA Transeuropa Automatic G radio (made in W Germany, circa 1972)
Telefunken bajazzo de luxe 201 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1968-70)
มุมมอง 1.8K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Telefunken bajazzo de luxe 201 radio (made in W Germany, circa 1968-70)
Philips 12RP 504 Radio (made in Netherlands, circa 1967-70)
มุมมอง 1.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Philips 12RP 504 Radio (made in Netherlands, circa 1967-70)
The rear panel is not shown. Did it have RCA jacks? East German audio equipment of the time did not use them, if I'm correct.
@steelers6titles no RCA Jack's, it is 100% german made. Everything is DIN standard "Deutsche Industrie Norm". In the imgur link you can see the pictures with the back and insides
@@Th0rnblade OK, thanks. I was viewing a video of a DDR-made unit awhile back, and it had all DIN-jacks. Didn't know what the acronym represented.
Отличная коллекция! Хотели бы вы приобрести советские радиоприемники?
👌👌👌super.
sądząc ze skali zakres ukf do 106
Posiadam taki amplituner bardo ładny. Nie myślałem że to lata 70-73 liczyłem na koniec lat 70
❤
Ładny amplituner . Mam SABA 8120 odnowiłem osobiście go.
Nice example of late 60ies receiver. The chunky power switch looks like transplanted from some household appliance :-). Those sliding poteniometers are always a bit difficult to adjust, but were a must-have those times...
Very nice example of 70ies scandinavian design. Looks great, you did a good restoration job!
The two clipping indicator indicator LEDs shouldn't light during normal operation. I guess either the OpAmp detection circuit, the differential input stages of the power amp or the hybrid final stages are somewhat faulty although there's no distorion audible.
Sorry, TH-cam did't upload the description of the video - The clipping circuit does not work anymore. The clipping circuit analizes signal at the output (of the original board). I have written it in the comments of this video : the original power amplifier board has been replaced. There is a whole new board inside of it, not just the amplifier IC. This was done due to the lack of genuine IC replacements available. Check the imgur link for photos of it's insides.
@@Th0rnblade Ah ok, that information was completely missing when I wrote my comment. I'm a bit familiar with the guts of that receiver as repaired my own one after the STK hybrid of one channel died. It seems I had more luck when buying replacements from Ebay - although they are not genuine, they work fine so far. I replaced them for both channels for the sake of symmetry.
Piękny amplituner moje marzenie :) Pozdrawiam
Piękny amplituner i jeszcze automat. Mechanika klasa pierwsza. I bez komputera działa automatyka. Sam mam SABĘ 8120 :) Pozdrawiam
Very nice to see it in action. Good work! I have a CEV 520 I bought some time back that I need to restore. I restored a CE 1020 tuner about a year ago--mostly just electrolytic cap swapping and changing the transformer switch to 110V for North America. It is the nicest sounding tuner I've heard so far and worked perfectly fine until the power fuse blew just the other week. I'll need to open it up and see what happened.
I also had the stuck gauge issue but managed to find a spare on eBay (for exorbitant cost in shipping!)
@scruffdogmillionaire The tuner sounding different in the US /north america probably has a lot to do with the fact that in north america FM uses different audio equalization before the signal is converted to RF and broadcast. I work on ships, and I have, on many occasions, brought with me radios all over the world, including USA and canada. What can i attest from my own experience is that they do sound with much more bass due to the different equalizer settings. I think it is a difference of 50 vs 75 microseconds. Too late for me to remember, but you can research it online. Very few European tuners/receivers of the time had switches gor usa audio equalization for FM (grundig rtv 600/650 were exported to usa with the correct settings, from all that i own and saw in their boards and schematics)... . i could have bought the tuner 1020 for cheap, just to get the gauges out of it and put them in the receiver, but I'd rather not murder devices just for the sake of it.
@@Th0rnblade I haven't found the CE1020 to have any issues in this respect. Maybe because it's simply a tuner and my amp stack can cope with the added bass boost from the transmitter's audio pre-processing. However, a few 1960s/70s european portables I collected and restored suffer horribly from this. Their tone curves don't seem to handle the input very well at all and can distort horribly on some music stations. It's too bad as they are very nice units otherwise
87.5-108,0 MHz?
I wold like to see inside!!!
Great brother
Needs a lot of capacitors replaced .
Retro éclairage absent : dommage car donne un cachet plus cossu à cette magnifique radio que j'ai eu vers 1980😊😊😊😊😊
Nice bro
Very nice old is gold product
Aceste mașini vintage sunt asa de distractive... o multime de butoane , parghii , comutatoare ...
How conect Bluetooth
Plz make a video
@@Janvi-s1v there is no Bluetooth! This is a receiver from 1972!!!!! Wake up
You can conection bt kit
Incredibil ce bine se aude
Ich bin Fan, dieser Saba Geräte. Das Transall de luxe e habe ich auch, und Technisch aufgearbeitet. Stabilyt, Elkos, Reinigung. Germanium Transistoren 16 Stück im Gerät, 2 echter Übertrager für LS verleihen dem Gerät diese besondere Charakteristik. Hervorzuheben Trennschärfe, und hoch Empfindlicher Empfang auf allen Wellen Bereichen. Der Solide Gelbcerzinkte Rahmen und die Beleuchtung der Skalen, machen Richtig was Her. Ich finde es Klasse, wenn diese Geräte von Generation zu Generation weitergegeben werden. Für den Elektroschrot eine Reine Sünde.
Bravo mais dommage FM limitée à 104 . Quel malheur !!
Goog !
Четкий приемник и звучит хорошо.
I have one, exactly like this. I'm fron italy. Can you give me a valutation? Many thanks.
The radio is not for sale, it is my private property, shown here for presentation only
Sure, i don't want to buy yours, i'm only want to know its value, if you know.
Hello ! Thank you for the video. I have a Grundig RTV 400 receiver but I lost the "AUS" button (same as on this RTV 650), any idea where I could find one ?
Hello ! Thank you for the video. I have a Grundig RTV 400 receiver but I lost the "AUS" button (same as on this RTV 650), any idea where I could find one ?
Hello ! Thank you for the video. I have this receiver but I lost the "AUS" button, any idea where I could find one ?
Wunderbar! Genau dieses Gerät besaß ich! Neu hat's ungefähr 445 DM gekostet . Das war ca 1987. Schade, daß bei dir das Cassettenteil nicht mehr funktioniert. Denn genau darum ging es bei mir. Der Tonkopf ging bis sage und schreibe 12 000 Hz ! Damit konnte ich den Radiorecorder an die Stereoanlage anschließen - und er klang genau so gut wie die Schallplatte oder das Radio.
I have that for sale
This was the first radio my parents had. I had no permission to touch it. Now that I'm almost 60, this brings back memories and I'm looking to buy one (just for me😊). Do you know what that ''car'' switch is used for by any chance? It's something I've always wondered since I was 6 (true! 🙂). Thank you for the nice presentation. Hugs from Belgium !
Do you want to Sell ? I need 1 for me
Which is better sound between this and nordmende transita automatic?
I have the same radio….lovely 60s technology
J'ai eu ce superbe poste de radio .De mémoire le cadran était rétro éclairé non ?
Tout à fait . J'ai eu aussi cette radio . Le changement des ampoules pas facile et elles grillaient souvent
Price kia he
Still available
Helo
Helo
Sir price kia he new or old
Still available
Require
Wich Price and in Bluitooth
Ce frumos este!🤗 Se poate alimenta si la retea?
I like to buy this radio
Not for sale! I put it in the description of all my videos. Have the courtesy to read the thing next time!
In case anyone is interested, I came up with a long-awaited Normende Globetraveler Short Wave Bands modification. Goodbye long dial string. th-cam.com/video/7_ZXtjgSwp0/w-d-xo.html
Hi i have this same radio but want to get a power cord for it Is any 7.5 volt cord ok?
The radio uses about 5 watts at maximum power... I would recommend a power adapter of about 7-10 watts. Also, due to the fact that most modern power adapters are switchmode supplies, you need to be careful when choosing them. The switchmode supplies are introducing a LOT of parasites/noise on all of the am bands and sometimes even on FM. You vill get very poor reception using such a power adapter. The good power adapters are the ones that have real transformers in them. You can recognize them by the weight and bulkiness compared to the newer ones. Also, you need to check the polarity of the connector, + to plus and - to minus. Otherwise, you risk destroying the final stage of the audio amplifier of the radio, and then, getting replacement germanium transistors will be a nightmare. Finally, I recommend you give up on the whole idea of running this radio on any kind of adapter. These radios were made to be carried along, to use batteries, and that they do very efficiently. The radio can run on some good alkaline batteries for 200-400 hours, depending on the volume you listen at. That translates into months of daily usage. I would say that is enough, wouldn't you? Plus, on the batteries you will get much better reception quality, with most of the parasites/noise introduced by adaptors (even the transformer ones introduce some) gone.
Nice! Hmmm, your deck seems to have the same problem as mine (CR-8000), sounds wobbly. Overal great fix. Did you replaced the bulbs with warm white LEDs (like I did)? The clock looks really nice. EDIT: The answer is at the description 🙃🥱😀👍