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There isn't any shift linkage. The only thing you disconnect is the shift cable. It's the electrical cable that connects with blade connectors (green and blue) from the base of the powerhead and runs down inside the leg shroud and into the gearcase.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepairgot mine is a 1969 Johnson w no glide shift wire just a metal linkage that has to be unscrewed to let the lower unit drop. One more question, how do you line up the copper water pipes as you put the unit back on with the rubber “holes” they go into? Just trial and error hoping they line up? One of mine came down w the lower unit and one stayed up in her upper… In every video I see online they never show the water tubes or then getting them back in the holes when putting them back.

Start with the basics. Do you have good spark on all 4 cylinders? What is your Compression values on each cylinder? The oil may be coming from unburned fuel out the exhaust. This means you may be lacking spark on 1 or more cylinders. Give it the sniff test and see if the oil smells like fuel if not check your lower unit to see if you have water intrusion if not then back to a missing cylinder. If all that checks out ok then you may have a fuel delivery problem. Carbs, Fuel Pump, Fuel Line, Primer Bulb and make sure you vent your gas tank too.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair appreciate the reply! Although I understand the items you mentioned, I don't understand how to do most of these tests myself . I had my boat for a month at the mechanic and it's a long story but he said everything it's fine but he thinks I need another ignition switch. I find that weird because the boat seems to fire up no problem, but doesn't go much faster than idling and forward my hunch feels like it's a fuel issue but he claims it's not. So I figured I would ask around on TH-cam if anybody has ever seen the ignition switch box, affect how the motor runs with the throttle

@@mikecorazza4294 the motor should run with the throttle cable disconnected. If you can throttle it up normally with it disconnected then you know something is wrong with the control box or throttle cable. The ignition switch only controls power to the starter. Once the motor is running the stator provides power to the motor.

@LivetofishOutboardRepair appreciate the reply. I'm not a boat mechanic and embarrassingly, I'm not sure where stator is located? It's not in the ignition box on the 1975 merc? I just heard from somebody that the 1975 merc was the only year this was made, and that the ignition switch box was notorious for issues. In any event, since replacing my original ignition box with a used one off Ebay, motor went from not starting at all to motor now starts instantly after turning key, but a) idles super loud, and when I put it in gear (forward), it trolls much faster in fwd gear (pre throttle) than before as well. So you're thinking the ignition box is OK if motor is starting OK? The moment I give throttle, motor only speeds up a tad more, then either does nothing, or bogs down then cuts out. I figured maybe fuel wasn't getting into the system but mechanic checked everything with that, also replaced fuel pump. Where would stator be? Thanks !

@@mikecorazza4294 The stator is located under the flywheel and connects to the switchbox. My video shows how to check peak voltage readings and resistances for the Stator, Trigger and Switchbox. If these values are not within specification will cause running issues or even a no start condition as you have stated. If you now have a good strong spark at each spark plug then I would be looking at your carbs as the problem.

Hey Reese thanks for the kind words. I hope to go fishing but it's not looking like it's in the cards. Talk to you soon.

I know your pain. 😆 🤣

No they are the same lengths.

Great, I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Are you sure your idle circuits are clean in the carb?

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I’m also going to clean the carbs as well since I’m going to be in there.

I use a light lithium grease or even dish soap works well too.

It's hard to say. If you got water in the coils, stator, trigger or switchbox it's possible.

I suppose the switchbox failed from the owner overheating the motor. I have never heard until now that coils can damage a switchbox. Thanks for watching and commenting.

​@LivetofishOutboardRepair I think that coils are very delicate devices. Thoy will not handle vibrations forever. They are very difficult to be tested unless you have a good inductometer available. The secondary winding inside is very easy to be checked with a simple ohmeter and I have never seen any reading too far away from 1,000 ohms. On the other hand I have measured very low inductances (and very low impedances) at 120Hz, which is a frequency close to the maximum rpm which is limited to 6,000. A too low inductance, and impedance, on the primary circuit may overload the limits of any switch box. Two day ago I had the opportunity of measuring a dozen of coils. I found incredibly low values from 0.9 to 0.2 mH while I have read that a good coil may have an inductance as high as 8 mH. I do think that all 12 coils were bad. All these 12 coils were sparking alright because the ratio between primary and secondary was higher than ever. The number of turns of a new coil at the primary might be only 100 or 200 turns of thick wire and more than 20,000 turns of a much thinner wire sit inside at the secondary. A bad coil, an old one having suffered lots of vibrations for too many hours during several years, might get very many turns in shortcircuit at the primary winding. The lower the number of working turns at the primary the higher is the voltage at the secondary, assuming that the switchbox can handle 20 or 30 ampere of current instead of only 5 or 10 amps. Replacement of all coils every so often is.... mandatory, just to avoid the switchboxes to fail. In fact I do think that all coils AND switchboxes should be replaced every 500 hours or every 5 years... just in case! All old bad coils wouldn't avoid the engine to bring us back to the shore at very low rpms, but a single bad coil is able to kill the switchbox, which in turn might overheat the engine up to the point of having to buy a new engine!

@josemariatrueba4568 I've owned my Boston Whaler now for over 20 yrs with the original 115 hp Mercury and have only ever replaced the spark plugs and water pump impeller. I must be very lucky.

I guess you meant 20 years not 20 hrs​. Not carbonated calcium deposits nor salt clogged the internal passages? Your poppet valve diaphragm still alive? You are not only lucky, you probably know how to take good care and never overheated your engine. Mine is a Pursuit 2550 with a single 1997 Mercury 135 v6 2.0. It used to have two of them, cw on starboard and ccw on port, but the later got completely destroyed from running a new set of three pairs of carburators because one of the 6 bowls didn't get any gasoline and one cylinder didn't survive running with no oil. The starboard engine has been reinstalled amidship and is powerful enough to get more than 25 knots the 3000 pound hull plus the 200 gallon tank half empty plenty of stuff, a 9.9 hp auxiliary 4 stroke and 6 persons onboard. It gets too hot after a couple of minutes. I'm sure that the passages are full of salt because we the broken engine looks terribly dirty inside. @LivetofishOutboardRepair

As long as the throttle closes completely and are fully open at WOT. I wouldn't get hung up to much on where the line contacts the roller as long as it idles good and reaches full throttle.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I adjusted the throttle link rod so the carbs were all the way open with the throttle at WOT. Then I pulled the throttle back to neutral and pushed it back to WOT again, and the carbs only open halfway. It seems like something is slipping and the problem isn’t actually the link and sync. Any ideas?

I think that resistance is OK but check the peak voltage outputs as well.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I have the flywheel off and wanted to ask before I put it back together and test voltage. So now I will do that and check the switch box as well. Thank you for a quick response. I will let you know what happens.

Sorry to hear your having issues but I live in MI

Maybe the wire was to close to the hot exhaust gases from a leaking gasket. It's very hard to say. Good luck with your motor. Thanks for watching and commenting.

No, Mercury did not equip this model with an air-box. I suppose the oil injection holding tank acted as the air-box.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair okay thank you. I’ve been working on my engine and I didn’t see one. It was just open carburetors.

Yes, lifting the leg and allowing it to drop using the relief valve will purge the air out of the system but be patient because it will take some time to get it all. You should be able to completely remove the relief valve to drain most of the fluid quickly. Also I used ATF synthetic trans fluid which worked well. Mixing the two different fluids may have been causing your problem. Taking off the motor allowed me to remove all of the fluid, clean and replace with ATF.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair Thank you very much much for a response !! I will be working on this today !! As of right now it goes up but very very slow , also it sounds like it’s whining. Is it possible I also could use a pump motor

@@sxcrdsplit8937 it will go up slow until you get the air out of the system. The high pitch whining sound is from to much air and maybe not enough fluid. Keep bleeding the system until the lifting speed increases and the whining improves.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair so I’ve the motor all the way up and I was turning the relief screw and I got a few drops to come out. It seemed like the screw was not made to come all the way out so I was afraid to keep going with it! Although I seen I your video u had it all the way. So I tightened it again and cracked it until the motor slowly fell, trying to bleed air. It didn’t want to go back up afterwards. Should I just back the screw off until drips very slowly and let motor fall and push fluid out and repeat and much as necessary? Thank you

Only once you have the proper amount of fluid raise the LU with the motor, Crack the relief valve and let gravity do the rest this will bleed the air out. Taking the relief valve all the way out will drain the fluid quickly. The relief valve has two o-rings to overcome to pull it out completely. The inner o-ring seals the oil and the outer o-ring allows air out

Try www.marineengine.com or www.boats.net

I have, just use locking vise grip pliers.

The motor didn't have a problem shifting into neutral. It was stalling out when Shifting into forward and reverse because the tank was to small causing the prop to hit the tank which caused the stalling. Thanks for watching!!!

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair i got mine 1969 running by watching your videos . I rebuilt the lower unit and used type C. But for some reason i cant get into neutral it will shift into reverse and forward but not neutral. I was trying to avoid dropping the lower unit again Thanks anyway

Type "C" is no longer available. It's been replaced by "Johnson Premium Blend". It sounds like you have a solenoid not working. If you lose the function of one solenoid it will not shift into neutral. If both solenoids stop working it will default into forward gear.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair im using Sierra (Type C blend) that i purchased from my local marine shop.

@DRYMlTE ... Oh I didn't think it was still available. Maybe the Johnson /Evinrude brand is just not available through BRP.

No it doesn't spring back.

Yes it has a keyway.

I would need to have the model number to see if it has a tt. The only way to tell if the water pump is working is if water is coming out the telltale. If not it's either plugged up or the impeller is worn out.

The spark was non-existent because the owner grounded the cdi box to the ignition hot side. See part 1.

I believe I Purchased the fuel from a local Automotive Parts Store. You can get them fully assembled at www.westmarine.com

Most likely. I've heard they don't last long. You can purchase OEM at www.marineengine.com

The good news is that they are very close together with little variation, however. 120 is on the lower end of the acceptable range. 140 is considered healthy for this motor. Try another Compression gauge and make sure your battery is good.

I can't attach the documents because they are copywrite protected but if you go to www.cdielectronics.com then click on the Technical Support tab at the top of the page then click on Technical Documents then click on DVA Charts to find the information your looking for. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project

Sorry, I don't know

The owner provided the carb kits but you should be able to purchase them from www.marineengine.com or www.iboats.com