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I didn't get the boat out on the water after the carb rebuild. We sold our cottage and the boat was included in the deal so unfortunately I won't be able to get that video. Also, I use Quicksilver Marine Lubricants Premium 2-stroke engine oil 50:1.

Thanks for tuning in and for your thoughtful comments.

You are absolutely correct. I show this small nylon bushing in part 6 along with the cornaige inside the motor.

I'm sorry to hear your having problems with your throttle. If your motor is the same as in my video with the throttle and shifter combo, it would be difficult to diagnose your issue from a video. If you go to www.marineengine.com and look up your model they provide diagrams of the assembly. You also might want to purchase a service manual to better understand how it works and how to disassemble and reassemble the tiller. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Good luck.

If it were my motor I would use the barrel not the muffs. This motor uses a high volume water pump not the high pressure one. Makes it harder for the water pump to do it's job without being fully submerged.

Wow great story. Thanks for sharing it.

I've gone through the carb and rebuilt with the same kit you used in this video.

Is it possible that your prop is slipping?

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I guess possibly. How can I check that?

@@chadhedrick9860 just mark the back of the prop with a scrib or paint marker. Then run the motor at WOT for a few minutes and see if the the mark still lines up with the prop Hub. If it moves then you know you have a spun prop and the prop needs replaced.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair thank you so much!

This one in the video was manufactured in 1989.

Very possible. Thanks for your suggestion. Thanks for watching.

I haven't had the privilege to work on a Black Max 175 hp but think there is something wrong internally to cause this hot condition. Take a look at what I've found out in part six. th-cam.com/video/OnWXUnvqJt4/w-d-xo.html

​@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I actually never cleaned out my own engine before . My motor pees like r Kelly.

From my recollection the drive shaft seals are stacked with the spring down. You can view diagrams of your LU gearcase at www.marineengine.com I also use PERMATEX Aviation Sealer #3 for my gaskets. Also I use a high grade synthetic marine grade gear oil 85 -140 weight

If you go to www.marineengine.com and select your model number you may find one in stock or at least be able to order one.

Try www.marineengine.com you may be able to order one through them.

Wow thanks for sharing your story. It's amazing you still have this motor and I'm sure it runs like new.

If the metal wave washers are worn out the dogs won't come out. The manual states that the wave washers should be replaced when servicing the starter.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair Which metal wave washers? The big one in the middle of the sheave shaft or the three small ones?

@chaosisserenity the three small ones

You will need to remove the power head to remove the lower cowling.

Part 1 & 2 links are found in the description

If your motor has a thermostate you can test it to see if it's opening at the proper temperature. If not replace it. If your motor does not have one then test the motor using a laser temp gun and see what temp your motor is reaching. If the water coming from the telltale is boiling you might have scored pistons. Check Compression. Thanks for watching.

I would say yes. The fuel that is in the bowl would empty out of the breather ports in the top of the carb bowl

Thank you sir, good health and success in your work. I have more questions, do you mind answering?

@peresvet5150 sure if I can.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair th-cam.com/users/shortsHwLwxVuQkKg?si=k1ldfvfluWQ17Yvk Hello, I tested the engine today, it was +39.2°f.the engine started badly on a cold one, at this temperature is it necessary ...?

​@@LivetofishOutboardRepair Dear sir, I have full throttle, the flap in the carburetor opens only by a third. is this the way it should be, or is there something wrong with the mechanism?

This vintage does not have a thermostat

I would first electically test the shift solenoids before giving up. The shift solenoids are still available at www.marineengine.com but they are not cheap. The upper solenoid costs $120 and the lower is $175 and are in stock. As for the skeg. I would install a skeg protector that mounts on and covers over your remaining portion of the skeg.

Duh

It sounds like the reverse lock is engaging all the time. The reverse cam may not be in the correct orientation with the shift shaft. Here is a video that explains what I am talking about th-cam.com/video/2B0L1F8elCQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sgKT6QsLUUSmHsVB

If I remember correctly this motor didn't have a thermostat but I like your thinking 😆

Pull the plugs and spray PB Blaster in the holes before pulling it over. You should be able to find the carb kit at www.marineengine.com and any other parts you need. Good luck. Thanks for watching.

Open the vent screw and then the oil screw in the leg if the lower unit. Drain and refill with a hand pump purchased at any automotive store. Attach the pump to the drain hole and pump the gear oil in until it comes out the upper vent hole. Then reinsert the vent screw with a new washer, unscrew the pump from the drain hole and reinsert the drain plug screw with a new washer. I hope this explanation helps. Thanks for watching and commenting. Here is my video showing this process on a 1978 6hp Johnson. It should be the same for any 2-sroke outboard. th-cam.com/video/8zyqcqJsyP8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vkOd4bRfZmOHaf7s

Thanks a million John for that endorsement. It was a real pleasure meeting you and working on your motor. Good luck with your fishing.

Good point. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Yea the sound is awesome. These are incredible motors and fun to work on.

There isn't any shift linkage. The only thing you disconnect is the shift cable. It's the electrical cable that connects with blade connectors (green and blue) from the base of the powerhead and runs down inside the leg shroud and into the gearcase.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepairgot mine is a 1969 Johnson w no glide shift wire just a metal linkage that has to be unscrewed to let the lower unit drop. One more question, how do you line up the copper water pipes as you put the unit back on with the rubber “holes” they go into? Just trial and error hoping they line up? One of mine came down w the lower unit and one stayed up in her upper… In every video I see online they never show the water tubes or then getting them back in the holes when putting them back.

Sorry for the late reply. I just noticed you asked about getting the copper tube coming out with the lower unit. It won't be easy but you have to get the copper tube put back inside the power head. Then line up the LU to reinstall. It might even require the removal of the power head to get it done. Just my opinion.

Start with the basics. Do you have good spark on all 4 cylinders? What is your Compression values on each cylinder? The oil may be coming from unburned fuel out the exhaust. This means you may be lacking spark on 1 or more cylinders. Give it the sniff test and see if the oil smells like fuel if not check your lower unit to see if you have water intrusion if not then back to a missing cylinder. If all that checks out ok then you may have a fuel delivery problem. Carbs, Fuel Pump, Fuel Line, Primer Bulb and make sure you vent your gas tank too.

@@LivetofishOutboardRepair appreciate the reply! Although I understand the items you mentioned, I don't understand how to do most of these tests myself . I had my boat for a month at the mechanic and it's a long story but he said everything it's fine but he thinks I need another ignition switch. I find that weird because the boat seems to fire up no problem, but doesn't go much faster than idling and forward my hunch feels like it's a fuel issue but he claims it's not. So I figured I would ask around on TH-cam if anybody has ever seen the ignition switch box, affect how the motor runs with the throttle

@@mikecorazza the motor should run with the throttle cable disconnected. If you can throttle it up normally with it disconnected then you know something is wrong with the control box or throttle cable. The ignition switch only controls power to the starter. Once the motor is running the stator provides power to the motor.

@LivetofishOutboardRepair appreciate the reply. I'm not a boat mechanic and embarrassingly, I'm not sure where stator is located? It's not in the ignition box on the 1975 merc? I just heard from somebody that the 1975 merc was the only year this was made, and that the ignition switch box was notorious for issues. In any event, since replacing my original ignition box with a used one off Ebay, motor went from not starting at all to motor now starts instantly after turning key, but a) idles super loud, and when I put it in gear (forward), it trolls much faster in fwd gear (pre throttle) than before as well. So you're thinking the ignition box is OK if motor is starting OK? The moment I give throttle, motor only speeds up a tad more, then either does nothing, or bogs down then cuts out. I figured maybe fuel wasn't getting into the system but mechanic checked everything with that, also replaced fuel pump. Where would stator be? Thanks !

@@mikecorazza The stator is located under the flywheel and connects to the switchbox. My video shows how to check peak voltage readings and resistances for the Stator, Trigger and Switchbox. If these values are not within specification will cause running issues or even a no start condition as you have stated. If you now have a good strong spark at each spark plug then I would be looking at your carbs as the problem.

Hey Reese thanks for the kind words. I hope to go fishing but it's not looking like it's in the cards. Talk to you soon.

I know your pain. 😆 🤣

No they are the same lengths.