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OE Suzuki Part number: 09283-40029 front differential (right) side output (axle) seal (40X62X8); hope this helps and thank you for watching.

Well i guess i ordered the wrong part twice lol

I ordered the 40039

@@eazzzyfitness Homer Simpson "DOH" moment : ) Hope you get the correct one.

​@@zmanvideo1 ok so i double checked, realized the 29 is for the older model, mine is the 2010 GV. Still waiting for the parts, and hope the leak will stop

LOL, the stool is the most important : ) Thanks for watching!

Because I live in Canada, it is a tedious process to import a scooter that has an engine attached to it; so I purchased the roller GSR46R, without an engine. I purchased the GX35 locally for $655 CAD; I took a look at the Lifan engine it comes with and decided to go with the Honda one, although it as slightly lower horsepower, it has much more torque, plus the Honda's are solid engines. Sorry to hear about your oil leaks. I should mention that I purchased another goped scooter, its the Goped Sport, I purchased the 3rd bearing and clutch adapter, purchased a 2 stroke Zenoah G320 engine (ordered separately from DDM racing), that thing is a rocket ship, I drive my scooters very carefully/slowly and with knee, elbow, wrist guards, and of course a helmet. The GSR36R is way more easier and comfortable to drive. I will post the goped sport assembly shortly.

no it doesn't, the 8 minute mark on the video shows you the fill/check plug; thank you for watching.

please refer to the video at: 10:10 to 10:35, which bolts to remove from the intake manifold; 36:30 to 40:45, which tools to use to remove the intake manifold; note: the intake manifold will not remove fully unless the fuel rail is removed, however, there is no need to remove the intake, just reposition it out of the way. Hope this helps.

please send me an email to miscm71athotmaildotcom and I will send the one I have, thanks for watching.

LOL, thanks for the compliment....unfortunately neither, just a prepared DIY'er : ) I wanted to avoid a plumbing call at all costs, however, shortly after making this video we had an old copper pipe between a wall give out and had to call a plumber.....cost to repair $1,400 CAD....you just can't win. Thanks for watching.

@@zmanvideo1 I promise you will be surprised how easy soldering copper is if you try. I'd say maybe 40 bucks would get you enough stuff from home Depot to practice. As long as the water is not flowing through the pipe it's a cake walk, especially with your prep. And remember we're all just amateur engineers lol. Thanks for the reply.

@@markkotarski4659 you are absolutely correct Sir, I shall try that! Thanks for the advice!

I thought he was a surgeon.

I replaced the shocks in 2018 with only 14,000 miles on the odometer. I replaced them with OE Suzuki shocks. I just noticed that both rear shocks were seeping and I am in the process of replacing them again, this time I went to rockauto and purchased KYB's. My odometer is at 19,500 miles. I don't drive the vehicle much so maybe its just time that the shocks wear out. Conversely, my front struts show no leaks/seepage at all. Hope you are enjoying your 2007, they are great vehicles.

glad you were able to solve the problem, I noticed the oil pressure switch too in close proximity to the belt. Enjoy your 2012 SX4 and thank you for commenting and watching.

thank you for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it! Glad to hear you got a GSR Cruiser, I think the only difference between yours and mine is the rear disc, it is standard on the Super GSR46R. Great that you have the Honda GX35 as a backup, I am not familiar with the Lifan 4-stroke, but the Honda has more torque (according to the specs). I have not yet ridden mine, I am curious on how it will ride, I am not looking to go crazy fast, cruising at around pedal bicycle speed 10 mph would be all I need. I also purchased a Goped Sport roller (2 stroke model) and installed a Zenoah G320RC engine on it, I am preparing that video for a future upload. You deserve a nobel prize for watching my video, it is really quite boring, but I am grateful you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and good luck with your GSR Cruiser.

@@zmanvideo1 Haha, nah man...don't be so hard on yourself. Many people are too afraid to even tRy to upload a video of themselves talking. And for that, I commend you. 👍 I believe if you keep it up, you'll likely even surprise yourself how much more comfortable and more articulated you become.👌 Best Wishes to you sir... I'll be looking forward to more content here...Thx again 🤙

@@dailypaywithclay thank you for the encouragement! Wishing you all the best!

the filter is located inside the bottom of the transmission pan, it is a screen, so if your fluid is very dirty, I would recommend removing it and cleaning it. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for the positive feedback and that it indeed can be replaced on the bottom side. Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching.

The lip on the new seal faces outside of the differential, mates against the side differential flange (faces the CV axle shaft). Good luck with the repair, volvosweden has a repair on it and looks quite straightforward.

Your most welcome! Thank you for the positive feedback. I apologize for the bad video quality and sound, I am using a better camera and lighting now.

I was not expecting it to come out so easy neither, but glad it did. For your 1200 all brass cartridge, I would bet that you will need to break the stem, run a tap and pull it out with the bolt. I found the 2 videos very helpful that I link in description. That is correct, the Moen puller you can twist the cartridge back and forth whereas with the ONA puller you cannot. So in my opinion, save yourself the cost of the ONA puller, use the Moen puller, and if its stuck then you will pull on the stem and pull it out and then start the tapping process. Please do let me know how you make out. Preparation is key to have all of your tools (i.e., tap, bolts, washers) on hand as to minimize water supply disruption. Best of luck to you. Thank you for commenting and watching.

The ONA is the Proper tool for the job. It can even transform into a threaded puller if things go south.@@zmanvideo1

LOL!! Thanks for watching!

thank you for the kind comment; and thank you for watching.

I think the oil filter placement is crazy. Actually this is not too bad, but it is a bit of a pain. Thanks for watching.

congrats on your 06 GV purchase, I am not surprised it was loose, it is a ridiculous design, I would highly recommend torquing the new oil filter to 10 lbs ft, 120 inch pounds; thank you for watching.

Thank you! And thanks for watching.

Thank you, in my case I did luck out fortunately. Thanks for watching.

I'm a master plumber you got took that's about a 150.00 job at the most

wow, that is pricey, but at least you have it fixed and didn't need to replace the whole faucet and break the wall etc. Thank you for watching.

850.? Can I be your handy man?

I would pull up the carpets a bit and see if you can see if its damp underneath their; you may have to remove the inside plastic piece from the kick panel. I would start first under the passenger dash, there is a hose that connects to the HVAC box to drain condensation from the A/C outside to the vehicle; you can see the hose from underneath the vehicle, check to see if its plugged. Also, if you had a recent windshield replacement that could be a source as well. Hope this help. Thanks for watching.

I completely agree with you. The cover on this Suzuki pulls straight up (with removing the round rubber hose piece first coming off the air filter box. If its stuck, just pry up until it becomes free. I apply a little bit of silicone paste on the inside four rubber grommets on the engine cover to assist easier removal next time. Thank you for watching.

I purchased mine from the dealer, I think I paid around the $150 CAD mark for each flange; you can try the following websites (I have ordered from them before): amayma.com, megazip.net, SuzukiAutomotiveParts.com. Hope this helps. Thanks for the positive feedback and for watching.

your most welcome, thank you for the positive feedback and for watching.

Unfortunately, I did not time myself as I did this repair when I was removing the transfer case to repair a few seal leaks. I would say around 3 hours if you take your time. The most difficult and time consuming was cutting off the lower stabilizer link nut, be prepared cause that will give you some grief. Other then that, it is fairly straight forward. Thank you for watching (and sorry for the late reply).

thank you! Sorry for the bad quality video. Thank you for watching.

hope everything goes well! thank you for watching.

Great question; the reason I use 0W-30 is because it has better flow characteristics in the very cold, i.e., it will flow quicker/easier, yet in the summer time it will maintain the 30 rating. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for your feedback, glad to hear you could use just the belt to loosen/tighten the bolt and not need any specialty tools.

that is a special crush washer, from what I understand, you can purchase that at a Suzuki motorcycle shop as well, if that is what you are referring too. Thank you for watching.

Good to hear that removing the axel is an option as well, I think that might be an easier way to do it, although I don't know how easy it would be to disconnect the power steering and alternator bolts. Thank you for watching.

I agree, it is in a stupid location, you should see on my 2011 SX4, that's even worse, Suzuki really needs to work on their oil filter locations. If the oil filters were not changed as you suggested, then that certainly damaged the engine.

Unfortunately no, we donated it. Thanks for watching.

You raise an excellent question, I decided to use the Amsoil 75W-110 as it replaces 75W-90 and 80W-90 gear oils, offering better viscosity protection than 90 and better fuel efficiency than 140 (also better flow in cold than 80W). Nevertheless, I would recommend sticking to what the manual recommends. Thank you for watching.

Desafortunadamente, no estoy versado en español. No obstante, espero que pueda encontrar la información que necesita viendo el video, muestro la parte inferior del vehículo y los puntos de acceso a los tapones de verificación/llenado. Como referencia, el tapón de verificación/llenado del diferencial delantero tiene un tamaño de 14 mm, el drenaje es un tapón cuadrado estándar de 3/8, como el trinquete que uso en la marca de tiempo de 2:26. Espero que esto ayude. Gracias por ver. (Nota: utilicé el traductor de Google para traducir mi texto en inglés al español).

The technical bulletin only says it affects RW420 (Kosai, Japan) production models; also, if you live in a place where they use road salt I would check for any leaks. Thank you for watching.

I am not planning making a fuel pump replacement video as it is requires dropping the fuel tank, quite a large undertaking; currently there are no issues with my fuel system. I would recommend you check out the Suzuki forums (suzuki-forums.com) to see if anyone has posted such videos. Thank you for your positive feedback, it is much appreciated.