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Thanks, you too! Happy Holidays!

I literally say it in the video around the 2 minute mark. You're not going to find them anymore, they were MILSURP.

Thank you very much for the compliments. To be frank, it's such an amazing swap. I wish you the very best in your swap candidate search, and your swap. If I can help, let me know!

I'm not smart enough to be able to say yes or no. I would imagine that using a translator would work, but again I'm not smart enough to answer. Best of luck!

TDI Swaps is the group. It has everything needed.

@@TDISwap thanks

I had to do the same recently on the CJ7. The original seals decided to give up the ghost. Glad you were able to fix yours!

I'm an older dude, and grew up in the 80s. This is just my apple music track that's running all the time and goes from 70s-00's and from rap, rock, techno, and all of it in between.

Thanks!!

there's one from Australia, or you need to make a mechanical setup that levers off the pump.

I'm not sure a dual mass flywheel is available for the Jeep 4.0 engine. As far as noise and vibrations, it's a diesel. If I wanted quiet, I would have swapped in an electric motor, lol.

@@TDISwap You mentioned throwout bearing noise. I couldn't find a dual mass either...

@@itskarl79 I swapped it out for a Centerforce bearing.

Right before the turbo in the manifold. It's inconel as well, so I'm betting it's more accurate than cheap sensors.

What did you say? I heard the first couple words but the last one I couldn’t.

@@bigghoss4402 I "matted" the pedal (full throttle)

Oh ok that totally makes sense, thanks! I appreciate your videos and that acceleration looks amazing.

Boredom. Additionally the ALH idles at 903. The idle recovery controller for the ECU wasn't able to recover fast enough, so it would dip down into low 800s and while it didn't stall, I wasn't a fan. So it was increased to around 970 RPM. The Jeep 4.0 idles around 650. So being that I was higher than that, torque multiplication was happening while sitting at a light or stop sign. This in turn increased EGT temps, because I was basically fighting against the brakes. My tuner, and another one, was unable to remedy the issue, so I did the manual swap. In truth it didn't affect anything, other than I didn't like the idea of it holding from 600-750F EGT while sitting still. As soon as I started moving, it went back to normal. Other temps looked fine. Grant, from the channel Rusty Autohaulic Guy, has a BEW in his TJ with an AW4. We've talked multiple times and he says he doesn't have this issue. Maybe the PD controller is smarter than the VE. One of these days I'll head over and visit him and get to see it first hand. He's only about 2 hours from where I live.

it did

Glad to help

I might have posted a Pic of my rabbit, but that's all I did. I didn't even have a chance to look for the info I needed.

I'm pretty sure you joined, and then posted a picture of you and a buddy inside the engine bay. Not sure how that is TDI swap related. Rule #7 states to keep it in the realm of TDI swapping. Your first post, within hours of joining, broke that rule. An admin/mod saw fit to ban you.

Join the Facebook Group. All the files have been moved there as they are the most up to date.

Thank you! Cheers!

31 and currently stick stock. Will be installing 4.56 soon.

It all depends on how I'm driving. You want to try and shift so that the next gear is around 2000 rpms.

Thanks buddy. I appreciate it. I often take them to the local Cars and Coffees and get the same response. They're quite unique and people are shocked to see folks do this. Still waiting on parts for the manual swap, so hopefully by this weekend I'll have most of it completed. I have a feeling that the XJ will become my favorite once it is done.

Upgrading to LSD in my van was life changing

Thanks. Can't wait to see your rabbit when the ALH is in it.

I have a feeling this is going to be a little sketchy now with the manual swap. But it's nice to have traction when you need it.

Thank you.

No worries. I would suggest the RPM being in the 2300-2600 RPM range for cruising. I had an SM465 that I bought while stationed in Texas and probably should've used it in the CJ swap. Granted the hurst shifter in the AX15 is pretty nice as well. Truck transmissions tend to shift like truck transmissions. lol As far as the BHW unless you're really going to push it, there's no need and you can just use a regular ALH. I always suggest that folks rebuild their engines, but that's me. This way I know that I've measured everything, and as long as I put in good parts I have a good starting point moving forward. In any case, best of luck with your swap. Can't wait to see when it's done how much you love it.

@@TDISwap thanks for responding. Do you think hoping for 250 ft-pds of torque is too much from an ALH in the mid 2000 rpm range? I was also thinking of the gtd17/52vrk turbo for low end boost. Yes the ax15 is a much smoother trans than a clunky sm465 the t18 is clunky to. Just need the low first gear and strength to get the logs and arch moving in the forest. The v6, t14 tcase in low works, with lockers,low pressure tires and ice chains, but seems to struggle going up the hill! I’m hoping the lil diesel and more gears will work better!

@@heyyoubuddy6749 I think you're underestimating the power of the ALH. With a set of .260 injectors, a GTD1752, and good tune you'll be at full boost no later than 2100 RPM. Peak torque on the stock motor is around 1900. Most of the dyno sheets I've seen peak between 2100-2500, so I think you'll be perfectly fine.

@@TDISwap thank you this is direction I’ll go. I’ve been looking for good rebuildable running ALH cars on bookface marketplace. What parts suppliers do you suggest? I will go with the better rods, do think a stage 2 cam is needed, or is stock good enough? I’ll go with Tekmek you and Kyle say he’s a good tuner. Do you keep the MAF on your engines? Thanks again.

@@heyyoubuddy6749 So, Car-Parts.com is a good place to get engines as well. Rods I use MaxSpeeding. Whoever has the cheapest. For hard parts I use IDParts, Cascade, Rockauto etc. Find the actual part number on IDParts and see who can get you that brand the cheapest. Stock cam is plenty. Delete the MAF. No need for it.

I don't even know what that is, I don't think. Care to explain?

@@TDISwap try to change 51mg to 75 without correcting the factor, look at vcds, neither value coresponding to mg/st would be correct.. i dont know how do i explain better

@@TDISwap i could link you the forum explaining that

@@atrabanefiltruota I just read up on it. So basically there are 3 diagnostic limiters to concern myself with: boost, IQ and air mass. I need to adjust those so that VCDS shows the correct numbers, and not the "stock" maximums".

@@TDISwap yeah the values in the binary are used in "calculations" with coresponding factors!

Thank you.

No idea. It was making more than enough and capable of much more being a 12MM pump head. I was happy with it, but the convenience of electric pumps made me go back. Neither is wrong, I just like the ability to make tuning adjustments with a computer. And cruise control is pretty nice as well.

It's totally worth it to have AC. The CJ isn't as big of a deal, but the XJ is much more important. I can freeze myself out of it, so that's a plus.

@@TDISwap Yeah I have to have it where I am at. Figuring out how to properly set up AC is the last thing I need to figure out before I begin the project.

@@BriannaBickel good luck

That's why some tuners just worry about the Drivers Wish and the Torque Map. They will just max out the Smoke Map to whatever max IQ is (say 75mg) and the entire map will be linear. Is it the right way to do it? No. Do tuners sell tunes with it that way? Yup!

@@TDISwap there are diagnostic limiters in the file, 6 for each codeblock if memory serves me right, if u wanted to use more than 51mg in your file, you would have to change these and scale it accordingly

@@atrabanefiltruota I'm aware, lol. That's next weeks video.

Thanks

I have not, and would not. In my opinion they create a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Additionally I've heard from a few folks that they have the tendency to hunt a little bit, especially down low. Talking with an engineer buddy, they surmise that it might because you're still using the N75 table to control it. So the built in delay expectations that are there for the vacuum controls overshoot and then compensate for the linear actuator. I feel that any gained response isn't worth it. But that's me. You do what you want!

Thanks

hello I would like to have some information on creating a mappack for vp

@@davyuranie3399 informatuion doesnt come easy, you would have to work for it

@@atrabanefiltruota ok

You need a converter. Whether it be with the gauge or an actual converter, that's up to you.

Does it? Yes, but there are plenty of mods that need to be done to get them to work "correctly." My 300TDI pump that came from a "running" engine from across the pond was filled with water. That's from a reputable vendor as well. Will they work? Yes. Are they getting harder to find? Yes. Are they worth it when Brazilian pumps that make 250 BHP are readily available and accessible? I dunno.

TekMekTronics. Nelson Martin. They are on Facebook.

No, this is a PD130/150 block. There is a FB group on ALH/Hybrids that will answer all your questions.

@@TDISwap thanks! Gotta find that group then

No clue.

It's on my Facebook Group: TDI Swaps

You can do it. I have faith.

@@TDISwap no not a fan

That's Kyle. He's a member of the group and a friend. Is it worth it? That's totally an opinion. To me it's worth it, so much so that I did two of them. Will I ever recoup the costs? Probably not. Is it fun to drive? Every single time I hop into one I fall in love all over again. Your MPG should improve, drastically .

@TDISwap good to kno he is a trustworthy person!.. I just Wana get ecu fixed so don't throw codes and stand alone wiring so I can start the engine up ! Got a jetta tdi on trade but key missing and steering column destroyed.....just trying to learn as much about um as I can !

I would prefer not to be giving out my phone number for folks for advice. As far as your setup, you're going to have a difficult time finding parts for the Renault. And you probably won't want to, because it isn't the best engine. If you want to TDI swap it, you're going to have to do research. My Facebook group is a great place to start. Kyle Meister, also on TH-cam, has a bunch of videos on doing swaps, although he doesn't have an XJ (but that doesn't matter). I don't know much about the Renault, but if it's a manual, then it comes with an AX5. That transmission will not hold up behind a TDI. You'll want an AX15. For an adapter Matt Whitbread, of Whitbread Performance makes the cheapest 4.0 Jeep adapter plates. I run two, without issue. For mounts, you'll want the TD Conversion mounts. They bolt straight to the unibody, although you will have to weld up your engine side mounts. Other than that, it's just basic mechanical and electrical. You will need to decide on a power goal, and then get appropriate injectors, turbo and GOOD tune. Stay away from the canned BS. Wiring has been covered on my other videos. Realize that to do this right, you need a decent chunk of change. I spent over 5K on building this motor, but I also had to piece it together because it was two engine codes that I mated. Most times you can get away with 5-10K with the full swap, but that all depends on what you have in your shop (welder, grinder, lathe, mill, consumable, etc). I have more than most, but I do this as a hobby. It also depends on what engines you have readily available near you. I prefer the VE pump engines. So for me, the ALH engine code is best. My XJ has a hybrid ALH/PD150 engine, that's stronger than anything I will ever throw at it. Start pricing it out. If you want/need more information, let me know.

Always welcome

Turbo vanes sticking? Stop parts cannon-ing it! lol

@@TDISwap no vains in the turbo. It's the old style turbo 🙃

@@davidhenderson7722 if you have no vanes in the exhaust housing then what is the actuator and N75 for? Lol Those both control the VNT/VGT mechanism in the turbos.

@@TDISwap never heard of vanes in the exhaust housing before 🧐

@@davidhenderson7722 Yup. They're called vanes. They direct the flow of the exhaust to either allow more to flow out, or stay in the help build boost. If the tune is bad, it leads to sticky vanes which can cause an over-boost or under-boost condition in the ECU and lead to limp mode. Here is Garrett describing how the double axle vaned ones work, but it's the same shit. www.garrettmotion.com/news/newsroom/article/what-is-a-double-axle-vnt-turbo/

have them posted in my Facebook Group: TDISwaps.

I have them posted in my Facebook Group: TDISwaps.