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Did you test the POR later to see if it really adhered? I have seen it peel up with a flat screwdriver like nothing before.

Yes, I've tried that a few times. The only thing I can think of is it has to be either a Thermal fuse, a Thermostat I think I'll look for one of those kits and replace them all. If anything else comes to mind, please let me know. Thank you

You should go to TH-cam to see all of the videos that show how to replace the headlight bulbs without having to remove the bumper.

Thank you, thank you, thank you! This video saved me hundreds and although my husband and I took more than 5 or 10 minutes, it was a Godsend!

Hey, how are you doing? I have a Samsung DVE55M9600V Flex Dryer that went into Vent Blockage mode. Cleaned out the vent going through the wall and in the dryer, and put it back together. But, the dryer still goes on for a few moments then turns off for a minute or two, goes back on for a moment or two, and turns off again. It's like it's stuck in the Vent Blockage mode. Can you share some wisdom on what could be wrong?

I would love exactly measurements! I am doing a 78 F250

Thanks for the info!

Thank you. Just changed out in a 2019 Ford Edge ST today. Total time of less than 5 minutes. The check engine light did not come off yet. Can I reset without a computer or taking to the dealership?

very cool, great video, thank you... having hard starting on my moms 2001 sport trac, first I though it was the iac ( from oreilly's)and replaced that first, then fuel pump( airtex brand from oreillys). seemed to help but the hard start came back. EVen tried the fuel pump relay switcheroo thing once and did not help. So You have to throttle it it a lot every morning, I mean a lot of gas pedal, then will finally start but will barely idle and really rough at first like if it is not running on all cylinders, you have to let it warm up and feel throttle smooth out after about 5 minutes of idle and warm up. Truck runs good all day after this. Come next morning same hard start. NO check engine light ever. but I get two codes , b2276 which online says could even be a bad ignition lock cylinder ground? is that possible? other code is B1359 which online say could be gem module or ignitions "switch" but Im guessing they mean the ignition switch tumbler where the key goes in, but of course that is a whole new key with chip and will need new key reprogramed as well. So this truck had an aftermarket alarm with remote start, my mom had that removed recently and had a local locksmith unplug the aftermarket alarm and install and program an Oem style square ford factory looking remote fob. Now the hard start was the same before and after the aftermarket alarm removing/unplugging so I dont think the issue was with the aftermarket alarm. Only other thing the truck has is sluggish door lock actuators, It usually needs two pushes of the unlock button on the remote to open the door locks. Truck has just over 200k miles. Also i have not checked the fuel injectors at all, they are original. My question about your video is you dont show how you moved the harmonic balance forward the first time you show that... you dont actually show that process? who did you move it forward away from the engine the first time? I am gonna go lock at her harmonic balancer and crankshaft position sensor.

thrust bearing, throw out bearing is in the bellhousing

Just inherited this exact car from an old lady and it has 45K on it. Always garaged too. Love it and it hauls ass. Thinkin on putting some rims and tint on it. One thing I'd like to know is where is the subwoofer in it and what is it?

Just beautiful

Happy late father's day

Wow definitely a nice front bumper from rough country

351 4v heads aren't necessarily the beat route to go. They are heavy cast heads. Save weight and go aluminum

Thanks for the know how. I bought a F 150. 2001. Great work truck but back doors didn't open .I know now.

U have got to be $hitting me.

I have a 2000 4.6 f150 and have been having this P0104, restricted fuel issue for a loooooong time. My gas milage has been stupid crazy low. It's a good thing i dont do a whole lot lol. I have replaced the 3 things you mentioned and sooo much more 🤦🏽. I have asked people, searched video after video, and forum after forum, and no one could help. Although i haven't checked the side canister yet, as it is almost 11pm, i will definitely be doing this first thing in the morning. I really appreciate you putting this video together and explaining as awesome as you did. This is the only video of yours that i have seen so far, but i have subscribed and will definitely let people know of your channel. Thanks again!

I changed the whole purge valve , about a year ago check engine came on with p144c , do you think it’s the purge valve again ?

I love how you explain the video in detail and I was waiting for you to explain more when you got inside of the car like when you was pressing the down arrow button to show us the screen.... And also waiting for you to explain the touch screen version of what it all could do but it's okay I'll figure it out you still did a great job keep going on the videos you can tell that you're a real mechanic🎉❤😊

I used to be a Ford loyalist before switching to Toyota, but I might be in the market again soon. Definitely will consider this car on my search.

Getting the same replacement cable is good. But in the long run replacing the brackets that hold the cable to metal ones are better and will last longer.

Your video is plenty of help

jeez, I chg my oil once a yr, in every car I have ever owned

I ordered parts on Amazon and got parts in a day. Replace them both on my 2001 Extended cab in about an hour. Video was a great help.

Steps: - Splash shield (2 or 3 7mm bolts) - remove fill plug (T50 at 33ftlb) - remove drain plug (T50 at 33ftlb) - clean off plug magnet and old thread sealant - new thread sealant - install drain plug (T50 at 33ftlb) - manual pump on quart bottle (75W-140 23 fluid oz or until pouring out) - install fill plug (T50 at 33ftlb)

This guy is full of crap, and he can’t even remember what the name of the motor Oilers. Discuss steps over his words worse than Joe Biden! Fumbling with his hick, accent, and backwoods attitude. Regular or synthetic oil you always change no more than 5000 miles and trans fluid every 30,000 miles, right there shows you he doesn’t know what he’s talking about.!

Drove a 2015 Titanium for several years and put 75k on it. I would put the Fusion against any Camry, Accord or whatever. Besides oil changes, 1 battery, 2 sets of brakes absolutely nothing went wrong. It had 112k when I traded it in. The CEL was on for purge valve but as I said it was an amazing car

not a fan of scamsoil

Did you use an OEM part ?

Did you use an OEM part ?

How did you dissemble the front of the dryer

I don't speak English very well but it helps me a lot just watching the video thanks my friends ✌️🇲🇽

When you change the battery you reset the BMS. It's easy: Ignition on, engine not running. Operate the headlight flasher 5 times. Press the brake pedal 3 times. Wait a little, then the battery light will flash 3 times. Done.

Oil change at 25,000 miles? Nuts to that. I do them at 10,000km, about 6,000 miles.

This is one of the best auto repair videos I have ever seen. Thank you!

Still in the process of getting a 2017 Ford Fusion sport! I drove it off the lot 5 days ago but it was leaking air pressure every time I got on the highway over 60 mph. So I had to drop it off to get the tire and a bearing replacement. Hopefully they won't try to charge me for something before I even own it technically. But I can't wait to get it back! I absolutely love it! So high-tech and fun to drive. It makes me feel safe with all the driving assistance like smart cruise control, blind spot detection. Plus, showing me the exact psi of each tire has especially been helpful, lol. I just wanted a new car with Bluetooth and I definitely got it. The only thing I think needs improvement is the stereo could be louder and needs more bass.

The battery is 175 bucks at costcos

I have a 2018 transit connect with the 2.5L ,got 134k on it,,no problems,runs like a tank,6f35 transmission

Hell yeah! Your video fixed my egr/misfire codes. I hit an elk on the passenger side years ago and broke a little piece of the corner of that reservoir off and there was a huge hole in it. I put some gorilla tape over the top of it and reinstalled it and truck runs great good gas mileage thank you. I had no idea that damn thing was there. I was throwing parts left and right at this thing. I'm thinking about boxing up all those new parts and putting the old ones back on and getting my money back. 😁

Great car. Buy the 2.5L. Tobs of room in the engine bay and an old school Mazda Duratec NA designed engine. None of that bs direct injection crap that requires walnut blasting or blown headgaskets on the 1.5 and 1.6 engines.

Thanks for a great video, getting ready to replace both cables on a 1999 F250 Light duty p/u.

Looking sharp

Beautiful color that lift from rough country is definitely nice

Wife came to see me what I was watching 😂😂😂😂😂 and to her surprise 😂😂😂😂😂I’m not watching belli dancers. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

you made this job easy, great detail, thanks for your help

Great video!

What lift and where did you get your side steps from

I replaced mine due to the purge solenoid being stuck open. I replaced and EVAP system finished test without a code. Drove it for 1.5 hours and P144C code came up after days of small drives. This is new, the old code was P1440.

Wish you would have shown how you got the ERG tube reconnected, because it looks like a pain. I'm replacing my catalytic converter on my zx3 now that I decided to keep after I help my son get a new car.