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Quick connectors can leave some wires connected and some not connected properly; make sure the wire is properly exposed to them. Glad you worked it out!

@@ChavezDIY Yea. There are a lot of bad designs on that car ... I hate to love it ... But parts cleaner nor alcohol never crossed my mind; good stuff 🫵🏾

Not yet ... It will be atleast another year before I have the time to send it off for repair ... I cannot speak to any of those symptoms personally but solenoids become "dysfunctional" as well when the ECU is going out per my extensive reading ... Keep us posted.

And be mindful that all of your codes may not be related to a failing ECU ... The VTEC solenoid is an easy fix; facing the car, on the left of the engine, on the very back about 4 inches down ... Plug and play

@@DIYD my flashing d happens on second start up only sometimes code is for shift solenoid b , like I said I replaced all the solenoids and fluids and still have this dreaded d flashing it has to be the pcm failed ,what does 83-1 mean PCM relation failure

Absolutely no idea what 8-31 means 🤷🏾‍♂️ if there were such a code for pcm failure I would have greatly appreciated seeing that early on ...

@@DIYD thanks for the reply brotha Hopefully I can fix my problem p0976 shift solenoid valve b low circuit I have replaced battery which was from 2019 Replaced all internal shift solenoids New fluid New dual linear solenoid Problem still persists I love the car but I’m getting fed up with having to turn it off and back on sometimes

I don't remember the exact code but the only code pertained to the transmission range sensor ... I have another video where i read them all with the OBD scanner. If you find it some of the codes are seperate from the ECU being the culprit ...

If your ECU is in fact faulty these symptoms will progress. You are describing symptoms that I had. Go And check my other videos about the "flashing d".

Again ... It is not your transmission if you see that start to slip or act funny.

Per my understanding and per Acura's understanding - and to their suprise - both pressure switches are exactly the same part number 🫵🏾

The top AND the bottom, yes.

@@DIYD Not according to my Acura references for the 2006 TSX. The top switch is 28600-RCR-004. The bottom switch is 28600-RCL-004. Check on Acura Parts Warehouse.

​@@niemand000look at one of my shorts regarding the pressure switches; I think that the part number has changed over the course of the tenure of the car ... I had two three different pressure switches that all fit yet the "brand new" after market switch was throwing a code ... 🤷🏾‍♂️

I sure did not because there isn't more than two that I know of. If you find a third or fourth please let us know 💪🏾

Mine is a 2004 CL9 Euro and all i can see is the 3rd gear down below and the top one says 2 near the switch, i wonder if there is a 4th gear 🤔​@@DIYD

If there is, it sure is not obvious ...

@@DIYD The 28600-RKE-004 does not apply to the 2006 TSX.

@@niemand000 how so?

Can you explain why and when do we have to do this transmission reset?

As far as I know it's not necessary; I did not do it to mine ​@@niemand000

Glad that it worked out for you 👍🏾

Check out my most recent video; you may need it down the road (pun intended).

No second rod present in my door; glad you got it done 👍🏾

@@DIYD thank you I actually realized you did the passenger side on the driver side there’s a second rod for the key cylinder !! If anybody in the comments ran into this !

It tested you didn't it?!!? 🤣 ... So easy ... Yet so complicated! Glad I could help 👍🏾

@@DIYD uggh the worst time

Your brake lights stay on and your battery dies or your brake lights don't light up when you press the brake pedal.

👌🏾

Glad I could help 👍🏾

The ECU is faulty ... My other video records the conversation with a local shop.

First you need to find a scanner to read the flashing D to make sure it isn't ... But if you are seeing it come and go for no apparent reason then you are on the right trail for the very same issue of my own; the ECU is failing BUT it's not detrimental to the functionality of the car ... Things will just start acting funny at low RPMs ... Clicks in the shifter; slips when in reverse; strong "clacks" here and there when in park.

@@DIYD appreciate the response, might get mine tested out to confirm, feel like it only comes on if I’m a bit heavy on the throttle then clears up after turning off the car and powering it on again.

Absolutely ... My intervals decreased over the course of 4 years where it just stayed blinking once the ECU was deemed faulty. Keep us posted!

Stutters when accelerating ...

Air was inside from the changing of the pump. It should subide after a few long minutes OR something didn't seal properly.

What type of solenoid?

@@DIYD thanks for the response! It’s telling me solenoid B. I also can’t find the location of the output speed sensor. I’m getting codes: P0722 , P1734 , P0780, P0756

If it is telling you B then there is an A which means that it may be the Duel Linear Solenoid ... Try cleaning it. The only speed sensor that I know of is on the back right of the engine. Look at my TH-cam Shorts where I'm at The Junkyard; very easy fix.

​​​@@CarlosSanchez-cn5yc and the Linear Solenoid is the cylindrical thing sitting right below the blue clip at :52 after I zoom in on the teal pressure switch ...

And again at 3:16 ... I start talking about the linear solenoid as well.

Yeah... they are exactly the same. It is shown throughout my later videos as I progressed through the problem! But yes. They are the same number. Confirmed by Acura

Okay thank you so much so i ordered 2 the one underneath the battery tray that should replace both correct?

​But what you can do BEFORE YOU OPEN THE SECOND SENSOR PACKAGING ... is to test fit one on both plugs just to make sure. You usually can't return opened sensors ... So do that as a fail safe but you should be fine regardles 👍🏾

Glad to hear it 👌🏾

About the price? I responded 👍🏾

@@DIYD No, not about price. About ModuleMechanics.

@@DIYD No. Different. Module Mechanics.

I see this comment ** and the other 👍🏾

@@DIYD I've been trying to post a comment about modulemechanics and their services.

No idea ... It varies but to have it reprogrammed by anyone is a pretty penny.

@@DIYD If you search for Acura part # 37820-RBB-A53, you will see modulemechanics offers a replacement unit with reprogramming for $950. If you search for the superseding part 37010-RBB-309 instead, they offer the same for $380. They do take a week door-to-door, but they give you 2-year warranty. This is the 3rd time I've tried to leave you this comment. YT wouldn't show it the previous times.

@@DIYD If you search for Acura part # 37820-RBB-A53, you will see modulemechanics offers a replacement unit with reprogramming for $950. If you search for the superseding part # 37010-RBB-309 instead, they offer the same for $380. They do take a week door-to-door, but they give you 2-year warranty.

@@DIYD If you search for Acura 37820-RBB-A53, you will see modulemechanics offers a replacement unit with reprogramming for $950. If you search for the superseding part 37010-RBB-309 instead, they offer the same for $380. They do take a week, but they give you 2-year warranty.

@@DIYD If you search for Acura part # 37820-RBB-A53, you will see Module Mechanics offers a replacement unit with reprogramming for 950. If you search for the superseding part 37010-RBB-309 instead, they offer the same for 380. They do take a week door-to-door, but they give you 2-year warranty.

Insightful!

Yes. BUT there can be circumstances where they are not related. The scan tool can cut through all of that while keeping the guessing to a minimum 👍🏾

I have not tried the 22 mm. I'm not sure ...

If there is an option I cannot speak on it ... I tried from the wheel and was not successful but have not tired from the bottom. If their is a way it was not made obvious 🤷🏾‍♂️

You are very welcome ... Have definitely been there 😁

No problems with reverse. If it is flashing try to find a OBD2 that can read transmission codes and see what code the flashing D is communicating to you.

Mine does the same thing when the d starts to flash I have no reverse and can only drive forward I have codes P0976 shift solenoids valve b low circuit P2647 vtec solenoid circuit high 83-1 pcm relation failure

Glad I could help 👍🏾

Who/how did you reprogram it?

Honda technician was able to do it. Reprogramed the new ecu to the vehicle and the keys to the immobilizer.

How much did they charge you if I may ask?

​@@DIYDthe tech is a friend of mine. There was no cost with the reprogramming. Took 5 minutes to do. Any Honda dealership is capable of doing it. They plug the in through the obdii port and program the ecu to the tsx Vin and immobilizer. Make sure you have all usable keys with you. The cost would be the same as reprogramming a new key.

I, was told that my ECU was faulty ... Check out my video entitled "The Flashing D's Problem - The Update."

I live in central Virginia; not a lot of snow or salt as a result of global warming, I guess? As I didn't think twice about the metal piece as I do see it in my head, all is well so far with the axels; working just fine. The lower control arms may not pass inspection in October as they are showing a larger rip in the grommet, and these are from Auto Zone. However, I think that Auto Zone offers a lifetime guarantee on this part but don't quote me. I know they do on their brake pads, but it's something I need to get on track about because, at the end of the day, it is free parts. Make sure you are torquing the bolts out to specifics if you are going through ball joints that quickly ... I hope this helps ... and let us know how the ride is on the Napa axel ... I think we are all still trying to find the best aftermarket replacement axel for they all can be funny!

So@@DIYD here's what happened. I went to NAPA to get the reman axle, picked it up, it seemed well-balanced and substantial. More so than the cheap axle I got from RockAuto (FVP HO8169 to be exact). However, it did NOT come with a dust shield on either end. Bummer. So the parts guy called the support line and found out that the remanufactured units don't come with the dust shields. Also that those shields aren't orderable by themselves. I had a good feeling about the axle, it seemed heavier than the one I had at home. He got a new replacement one coming for tomorrow. I decided to go home and just put the FVP axle on without the dust shield. I live in Wisconsin where the road grime and winter is substantial, but I've never run with the engine bay cover underneath on(mostly because it makes changing oil a PITA) but I am going to start now. I am going to try out the cheapo axle and see how it works. I also decided to try the Monroe quick struts which are already in place on there even though I have heard they suck. I've decided to do both of these things because the car has 291k, and a salvage title, and I'm pretty much sick of throwing money at it. I hope everything turns out OK and it pays off. I just decided to stop second guessing myself on parts because I'm sick of the project and I want it to be over with. Wish me luck. I'll let you know if it has vibration issues very shortly.

How did it go? Man that passenger side is a pain! Driver side took me no time but I spent 2 hours beating the passenger side today and got no where

Nooooope 👍🏾

No. The time consumption is at least one week if I'm to send it away to be repaired, which I just don't have the time for as this is my daily driver. But I will attempt to do this over the course of the next year as then and only then do I see that time becoming available, so stay tuned for another year XD