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The LC200 is from 2007-2020. Just make sure not to go crazy with the front lockers.

The 10.5" is solid, never had any problems and I've wheeled the truck loaded at 8200lbs. I snapped 4 or so stub shafts before I went with the LC200. Even though the ADD is nonfunctional the front wheels can still free spin independently but the tradeoff is that there's additional friction created because the front drive shaft now spins. But I think that might be a problem with a Sequoia that has AWD. When you got the shaft fabbed did the shop cut the splines OR did they cut out the middle and welded it back together?

@@wheelingfullsize Thanks for responding. They cut it, did approx 2" male splines on one side and female on the other. Press fit it together and it will be tig welded. I have an FJ cruiser transfer case in my Sequoia and I heard they can take the backspin from the front Drive shaft with no issues. Some of the transfer cases I've heard you can starve the front bearing from oil with the feedback.

@@treehouseoffroad I've been waiting 6+ months for this one shop to cut my spud shaft (female to male spline adapter) so that I can marry the transmission output to my Atlas TC. You think the shop you used can make it? Do they have a website? There are other places online I've contacted but they want my left arm and several toes for it.

@@wheelingfullsize it cost me a grand, are you still interested? He does not have a website, he rents a shop next to mine

The double cab truck spent the winter covered and on jack stands on the driveway, while I spent the handful of dry weekends doing body work on the crewmax. I still have the tailgate to fix then it's off to get painted. Then I can start up on the DC again.

I used to have a DAP tune many years ago. There's nothing he could do that I haven't already tried myself with my HPTuner.

😅 yeah the next door neighbor's kids kept coming around

www.tundras.com/threads/cruzers-re-build-for-the-rubicon.79505/

When you drop into 4LO the ECUs plays a big part in limiting the amount of power you can apply down to the wheels because Toyota knows that the CV axles are the weakest link, which is why I was able to somewhat get around it by having to trick the 4WD ECU.

@@wheelingfullsize that makes sense. Have you found the tundra components for the most part able to handle 40s and off-road use? Axles, steering rack, diffs , etc. when I went to 37s on my 4runner I was running into problems left and right

@@thehayman7352 with the wheeling I do CV axles and the stub shaft were definitely the weakest link. I was snapping them left and right. Even the RCV axles I upgraded to I've been able to strip the splines. Surprisingly, the steering rack hasn't given me any problems and I've never bent the tie rods. The diffs themselves have been fine but then again I've had lockers front & rear pre-40s which strengthens them over OEM.

⁠@@wheelingfullsize so you reckon your setup but for more overlanding shouldn’t run into significant cv/stub shaft issues? For reference my plan is to put a 6.5ft on my crewmax with a light pop up camper in the rear w/ custom bags if necessary. Full lockers, gears and such.

Yeah, it was my daily.

@@wheelingfullsizevery awesome thanks for responding!

I’m going to do a lot of custom work on the DC so that it’s better off road. Shortening the frame so that it improves the break over angle. Tubbing the rear cab so that I can raise the fuel tank so that it’s not lower than the frame. Installing an Atlas transfer case so that I have torque to climb. The list goes on.

@@wheelingfullsizefor my truck with 37s what’s the best mod for a offroading these huge trucks

It’s hard to please everyone 😂 My earlier videos had music and several people complained about that. My video editing skills are terrible. Getting someone to record and capture the right angle while wheeling is hard and time consuming. But I guess I can put more effort into the description section.

@wheelingfullsize it's a great video. I enjoyed it. I'm still learning. I may take a video class . I want a drone. It's hard to get multiple angles. That requires 5 cameras or placing 1 camera everywhere. I think 1 stationary camera in the vehicle, go pro pointing in a different angle, 1 guy outside then a drone. (4) it's work but it makes good cinematography. I only have 1 camera. My go pro died. I aim to get 3 cameras. Good trail, keep going. I'm no professional. Maybe add a background music turned low.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BBXDGPX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks a million 👍

I already broke my snub shaft and intermediate shaft. I just buy used differentials for the parts but I’m going to try this next time👍

@@TundraVic I was buying used diffs too but that got old quick.

@@wheelingfullsize I see you broke the Amazon solid shaft. Did you switch to The Toyota part 41337-60020?

Have to leave the ADD in place because it'll leave a big opening and need to leave it plugged in otherwise the 4WD ECU will flash the 4HI/4LO light on your dash. I just removed the slide collar. The ADD will still slide its fork but it doesn't know that the collar is gone.

That's good to know, thanks.

Also wondering why you chose those specific tires. They look wild so im just wondering

@@AldenPez These are C rated tires but have 4 ply side walls, whereas E rated tires only have 3 ply sidewalls. So they're softer and can spread out more when I air down with an additional ply for extra sidewall protection. I just got a new set of TrailReady beadlock wheels that I'm going to throw these tires on and sell off the Method beadgrips.

@@wheelingfullsize ahh ok thats cool! Ive been wondering why a lot of 40’s are c rated

The goal is to shorten the wheelbase. Bobbing the bed on the CM could achieve that but then I’m assed out on bed space. I initially wanted to convert a regular cab long bed but needed cab space for the dogs so I settled for the DC.

Just found this goldmine, dude knows his stuff!

@@treehouseoffroad I hope he builds the other tundra and does more videos.. his crew max was bad ass .. I want to build a second gen sequoia on 40’s but we will see I think you’ll be on 40’s long before me 😂

Agreed, he definitely earned a sub here...can't wait for the next build....

Water is still cold AF though

On Nitro 5.29 gears and locked front/rear. Drives buttery smooth on the street, it's my daily driver. Still has the stock steering rack, but did upgrade to Coachbuilder tie rod ends.

That’s a wild Tundra!

Working on it..

Only once when the truck rolled onto its side. Other than that the rack has been solid.

Just wide view on the GoPro. Superview is fisheye.

Well that's a first 😂 I am planning to do a video about an upcoming project that involves a walk through, hopefully that'll be good enough.

I got it from TrailToys.net although I still had to chop 4” off the wing ends to fit the 40s.

You’re going to need a high clearance rear bumper (and front bumper) because you need to trim the rear like I did. Plus you’ll need to trim about 4” behind the rear tire - if you look at the wings on my rear bumper, the ends closest to the rear tires had to be cut 4” so the bed sides had to be trimmed an additional 4”. You’ll also need RCV CV axles cuz you’ll be snapping cheap axles left and right, OEMs will last a little longer but they’ll get beaten up too. You’ll need to swap out your front diff stub shaft for a Land Cruiser intermediate shaft cuz you’ll snap those as well. Check out my build page and you’ll see what I went through www.tundras.com/threads/cruzers-re-build-for-the-rubicon.79505/

@@wheelingfullsize gotcha yeah I got the high clearance bumpers and the rcv axles are on the way. Just need to cut fenders and rear bumper. Only thing I’m seeing is going to be an issue is all that metal by the pinch welds closest to the cab. Did u have to cut a lot? And did u do a cab mount relocation or anything like that? Also do u rub full lock or no? Sorry for all the questions lol. I’ve read your write up already so many times haha when I got my truck bone stock I was like this is how it’s going to look and perform when I’m done haha

@@Socal_S1k I flattened out the pinch welds and only did a BMC. I did trim the front fenders but not by much. You'll have to adjust your LCA more forward for more caster, which will reduce the rub on the body mount. I rub at full lock with these new Mickeys you see on this video but I had no rub on my previous set of 40s.