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I don't remember if it came that way or if it was a short fall (under 3ft). Nothing major happened that I know of, it's probably pretty fragile. I've just had it on my desk, on my lap, and in a pouch in my backpack. I'm not too rough with it or anything.

The poles should pull/slide out once you unlock the plastic latches, but I don't think you can easily get them completely flat. The plastic part where the poles insert under the pads is permanently attached as far as I know. I bought 2 or 3 sets of Rock Band drums from eBay and they always had to use pretty big boxes it seemed.

I think I went over the test points and such in more detail in one of the later parts when I started to solder to it if you're hoping to copy my wiring. I ended up stalling/abandoning this project later on because I just couldn't get the drums working properly in Santroller no matter what I was trying, but Sanjay told me later on that I probably needed to use some Schottky diodes to clamp the voltage going to the Analog Multiplexer I was using. I got the diodes but never got back around to picking up this project. It's still sitting off to the side in my electronics area. On the bright side, my failed attempts + complaining on the Santroller GitHub resulted in him drastically improving the documentation on his site for hand-wiring drums, and I believe he fixed some issues in the firmware also. One of these days maybe I'll try his suggestion and see if I can get things finally working.

That seems unlikely. I seemed to find a bad fuse (among other hardware issues) in the next part. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.

I'm not familiar with those games, so not sure. Could you give some examples? I would say worst case this method is still nice because you can just desolder or snip the wires if you needed to undo it for some reason, you haven't bent or cut any of the original chips like in other common methods.

Let me add that you should not do this mod simply to improve the reliability of reading games, it's not an alternative to 1) cleaning your game cart pins, 2) cleaning and/or boiling the 72 pin connector. Not all issues reading games are caused by the lockout chip.

I don’t have any specific examples of games but have heard that the cut method is not preferred as some unlicensed titles may actually be damaged. That being said, I never plan on using the cut method and see the wired method as the proper way to disable the lock out. I was curious if you knew more about the possible damage to the cut method is all. Good video!

@@SoundToxin Wouldn't a DPST switch work for turning the mod on/off?

Ah, yeah, sorry for the trouble. I did put it in the description also, though, using the same notation GP2040-CE uses in their docs as well as explaining it's Select and Start.

No, but if you check out newer videos in the series, I go over more test points I find going to various drum pads, pedal ports, etc. if that's what you need. The ones for the controller buttons are on the other side of the board, so might be easier to hack up the old wires than route new ones for those. I was having trouble getting my analog multiplexer to behave with the drum pad inputs and I have the project on-hold now while I work on other things. Last thing I did was desolder the old chip on the board in case it was causing issues, but that didn't solve it at the time. Santroller has had several updates since then so it might work better now if it wasn't a hardware issue on my end. Sanjay also added support for just using the drum pads as digital inputs instead of analog which he says should work fine for playing the games normally, you only miss out on a little bit of functionality. If you do plan to use these with a new microcontroller and Santroller installed, you can probably open an issue on the Santroller GitHub to get some assistance from Sanjay if you're stuck.

There have been some updates from Sanjay, sounds like some 3.3V zener diodes do the trick getting the analog multiplexer to behave properly. I've ordered some to give a try. The Santroller drum wiring guide has been updated with the relevant info.

The screen comes on by itself when you plug it in, there's no extra step or button press. You may have an issue with your firmware or config. You could wipe it and reflash the latest version of GP2040-CE if you're having issues.

Thanks for watching!

Hey John. Good question, I didn't cover that. You're going to go over to the third column, so your RT/RB buttons. Hold Start + Select the same way and then use those RT/RB buttons to cycle up and down through the colors. Do this after you're already set to the solid color pattern and it should change through the colors available.

@@SoundToxin Oh ok thanks a lot.

Thanks for watching. Did you manage to get the piece out on your switch?

You can do `apt install tesseract` in termux and that should take care of it.

This comment sounds kinda like spam, but check my reply to another comment for info. If you've got homebrew on your 3DS it's pretty simple to set custom themes. You can find info for setting that up elsewhere if needed.

From what I remember I got it the same day I set out to do it, but I'm not sure how many minutes or hours it took exactly. You just had to keep picking up bushes and there was a slim chance of this event triggering. I already had the witch's broom to fly around, so really I didn't need this, but I think my friend got it and I felt a little left out, lol.

@@SoundToxin must’ve been nice :0 do u perhaps know any working sword codes?

@@ayelmao2876 The "codes" are just filenames for the images. Check your Graal folder in graal/levels/swords. Any sword you've seen in game gets downloaded and stored locally and should be in there. You can also open up a console (one of the f keys, can't recall which, might be f6) to see a log of images being downloaded as you walk around. Useful if you see a new head/body/whatever for the first time and want it. You can even move/delete your stored images and then go next to someone with one you want to see it download the exact one and find out the filename quickly.

@@SoundToxin damn I can’t access them cause the new client doesn’t support Macs + I’m mainly on mobile :0 but if u remember any sword file names just lmk heheheh

@@ayelmao2876 I do have some Graal folder backups where I can list out the names, but there's not a ton there. Plus some of the Zodiac sword images ended up in there for some reason, those ones won't work. With that in mind, here's the contents of a swords folder I found for now: ix.io/4a0t

What do you mean? What's wrong?

Sorry, but it was my first keyboard build and first major soldering project, so not only does that sound like a bad idea, but it was kind of a pain to do. I'm already putting off a few other builds. I got a couple Lumberjack PCBs, a bunch of boba switches, some mill-max sockets, couple keycaps sets, etc. (just for myself) If you give the build a go, my one warning to you will be to not put the MCU (Elite-C, Pro-Micro, etc.) in the wrong way. I had some minor things I needed to resolder like a couple of the kailh hotswap sockets and a pin or two on the MCU on the left side, but then on the right side I had the MCU in the wrong set of holes and the right side didn't work at all. Desoldering it was an absolute nightmare that took many attempts, many new tools bought, and help from some other people. As long as you don't mess up that part, fixing anything else is pretty easy. There was a guide I followed that I found on Reddit somewhere. It was an imgur album I think with some captions. Mostly not too hard to follow. I used a Pinecil soldering iron and got some stuff like the solder off Amazon. I've been thinking lately I should really do one or two more Pinky4 builds just to have spares if I can make myself. Currently I use it at my main PC and also sometimes take it out of the house with me. I don't know what I'd do if the thing broke or got lost. It would really mess up my life.

@@SoundToxin How do you find the thumb cluster with low profile switches? How comfortable is it?

@@bradd5961 I like it quite a bit. It's very comfortable. I think the height difference was a good idea. It's a shame it's not a more common design. Now that I'm used to it, it sorta limits which other keyboards feel worth building/buying. The thumb cluster in general on the Pinky4 seems a lot better than thumb clusters on most other keyboards I see. It's nice and close and has a good curve to it.

I can't remember. I think it was a little over a minute. I don't know what site I was recording it on. I don't cube as much these days. I try to do at least one solve every day or two just to keep the CMLL algs fresh in my head. (I have forgotten Y Perm once or twice because it doesn't come up as much as T Perm in solves for me) If I find the site I'll try to remember to do some solves and come tell you my result.

Box Navy. I'll update the description. edit: and the Chocs are Choc Navy to match