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It is a Grafted Montipora Capricornis. This particular one also creates little branches upward.

It is absolutely a sign of being happy and healthy. Good indication that they like the environment.

On all my tanks in target salinity of 1.026 (35 ppm). As for alkalinity. That varies. For my LPS dominated and Anemone tanks. They are low 7s. For my SPS tank it is high 8s.

My lens did not melt with this setting. On my old primes I saw some darkening on the UV and Violet but on the newer prime that has been running 1.5 years there is no issues. The newer prime lens looks a bit different and holds up a bit better.

@ when you say newer prime do you mean like a newer version of the 16HD? Or do you mean the 16Hd compared to the old Prime HD

⁠ newer version of the 16HD. I have some that are a few years old and they developed some dark spots. But the one I purchased 1.5 years ago still looks great. Both are 16HD but when I look at the lenses on the 2 of them the newer one looks different. Like there is a coating over those specific LEDs.

@@wtjonny ​​⁠ newer version of the 16HD. I have some that are a few years old and they developed some dark spots. But the one I purchased 1.5 years ago still looks great. Both are 16HD but when I look at the lenses on the 2 of them the newer one looks different. Like there is a coating over those specific LEDs.

⁠@@saltypops4276oh wow that’s interesting. Maybe the new lens I just ordered from AI will be the updated one! Appreciate it

I did let it go for a while. People tend to panic over it and I wanted everyone to see how easy it is to get rid of. You should act the second you see it and not wait.

The quick answer is, you need to increase the intensity of the Blue OR decrease the intensity of the others OR a combination of both. Royal Blue appears brighter than Blue. See bulb ratio below compare to 16HD: Prime 16 HD - RB : Violet + UV is 2:1 Your setup has 3:1 which will make the overall blue much brighter. Prime 16 HD - B : Violet + UV is 2:1 Your setup is 1:1. So the Blue LEDs that produce the darker blue are less prevalent in the Blades vs Prime, which is why you are getting a darker blue with the Salty Pops program. A little manual adjusting and you should be set.

I have been feeding them algae strips. Probably should offer them to someone locally. But I just started feeding them and kept them.

@saltypops4276 thanks. I'm off to my LFS today 😀

Hello. I do 2 ramps because I am following a bulb light pattern where channel one comes on early then later channel 2 for a mid day bump in par. This is what would naturally occur in the ocean mid day when the sun is at it’s brightest.

If you run into issues let me know and I’ll help out. As for the turbos food source, I have been providing seaweed for them to eat as I hate for something to just die. So they are doing fine, I give them some twice a week and the tank continues to be algae free. Blue leg hermits are great for hair algae but do not eat enough to wipe it out on their own. Astraea are by far my favorite snails as they eat a lot for their size, so good choices here. Glad to see you also got Mexican turbo snails, hopefully they are large ones when they arrive. Funny you mention not having good luck keeping snails, many snails do not live very long in the home aquarium, 6 months give or take, which is why people constantly have to add more. However, the Astraea snails, I have some that I have had for 2+ years and Mexican turbos live a long time as well.

Yes. The program does perfectly on a 32. As for reducing the intensity. Really depends on the corals in the tank. If you have a mixed reef with SPS at the top and LPS below, no need to change anything. If you are not running a lot of SPS and more heavy on LPS, I would reduce 30%. Please do a manual calculation of each spectrum instead of using the 2 finger slide.

@@saltypops4276I have got bubble tip anemones, softies and LPS in the tank. So I reduce the intensity by 30 % and run at 70 % ? . I also have got lots of green hair algae. Should I run the lights for 10hrs ?

@@coolguy1995able I wouldn’t change my lights. Get a small army of Mexican turbo snails and give them a couple weeks.

Hello. I buy them locally at a saltwater shop to avoid shipping charges. If that is not an option, I have bought inverts from LiveAquaria before when they use to offer free shipping on inverts. But haven’t since they stopped the free shipping.

ROWA helps a ton. I actually run ROWA and Purigen together 24-7 as part of my normal setup!

Nah. I've done that before and still there. Snails always work the best for me.

@ we’re did u put the bag

Yes it is. I have it running in a 15 gallon and others have put it on tanks as small as 13.5 gallons.

Hello. The whole reason I am rinsing and putting it back in for a 6 month life is to hold Bioload. I don’t leave it in indefinitely and rotate with the other pads to avoid the nutrient issue. But if I through it away all the time, my ability to hold bioload is diminished.

Hello Salty, so I put the sponges on it and don't clean them until 3 months have passed to maintain the biological load?

@@franroman2070 hello. No. You need to clean them every 4 weeks. Take them out and rinse them with tank water in a bucket until the water is mostly clear to get rid of the detritus. Then put them back. You will do this every 4 weeks to keep them clean. I assume you have 2 pads. Each pad stays in for 6 months total time with the every 4 week cleaning. Space out the replacement of the 2 pads so you are changing 1 every 3 months.

Thanks Salty, the last question, can I use Perlon instead of filter sponges? And so I can throw the perlon every week?

@@franroman2070 I personally would not do that. One of my filter pads is 20ppm which is a fine filter pad and captures everything.

Hello. I can send it via email. Or I have it saved in the files section of the FaceBook group AI Prime/Hydra Reef Group. It is called Salty Pops. Or create it in just 8 points.

Sounds like a phosphate issue. I would recommend Purigen and ROWA-Phos, also clean up crew stock. If your CUC is low then you don’t have enough natural algae predators. If you run a UV light, increase the photo period a bit.

Hello. I personally do not use the spray bar because I use the filter flow to create high surface break tension to help with oxygenating the water. If you have other means of doing this, then using the spray bar is fine. As for filter floss. I do not use it for 2 reasons: 1. Exactly what you said, it clogs easily, reducing overall flow in a short period of time. I can get the same water clarity using a 20ppm filter pad without it clogging so quickly. 2. Everything in my filter has a bigger purpose. All my pads stay in for 6 months in order to hold bioload. I do rinse them thoroughly in tank water every cleaning to remove all the gunk and detritus. Then put them back to help carry bioload for the tank. Filter floss is not rinse and reusable, so you throw it away every cleaning, which means it has no long term benefit.

Glad you’re a fan!!! I use TopFin filter bags from PetSmart. They are a very fine filter bag that will hold purigen.

eBay.

What are the tank dimensions? What do you want to keep?

@@saltypops4276 45x45x45 cube

@saltypops4276 45cmx45cmx45xcm

Lps softy

On 75l you can use just 1 prime for LPS and Softies.

Hello. I have it saved in the files section of the FaceBook group AI Prime/Hydra Reef Group. It is called Salty Pops. OR create it in just 8 points.

@@saltypops4276 Thank You !

Hello. The setting will work great on that tank. I recommend setting the light 11” above the water (not top of the tank, 11” above the water itself). As for spacing, on a 28” tank I would put them 9” in from each side, which would be 10” apart from each other. This will give you even crossover in the middle and full coverage end to end.

@@saltypops4276 thank you, I will make those adjustments, 100% intensity? how should I know if the lighting set up is a success?

⁠@@HarryCichlidshello. If the tank currently has coral in it remember to run acclimation mode. If it doesn’t you should be set. I would recommend just running the standard setting the program runs at, you can have a great mixed reef tank with that.

Hello. If you change to my settings, you will need to run acclimation mode. Acclimation mode starting % is usually determined by intensity change, but in general, most people start the new program at 70% with 30 day acclimation.

Hello. If it came with a skimmer use it. As for the rest of the setup. If you are currently being successful I wouldn’t change anything. If you are having issues, algae, nitrates, etc. then yes, make a change.

@@saltypops4276 thank you for all your videos. Quick question. Where do you buy your supplements from?

@@Bennymisc I buy it all from Amazon, except live phytoplankton, that is from my LFS.

Higher flow will spread them around the tank more. Putting them in your low flow area was a good move, that will help stop them from being blown around the tank.

Moonlight can absolutely be added without any effect on the existing program. If you get me your email address I will email it to you.

Sorry - do you have the About page to send a private message?

@@dooros543I do not have an about page. Sorry.

The easy answer is yes it will work. Several people run this program on a 32. Here’s what you need to know. A single 16HD on the program puts out around 175 par 6” below the water right under the light. So that is max par. Sand bed will be 75-100. A 32 is 2 x 16 so you will have higher par. Not double, but higher. If you want a good mixed reef with SPS this is perfect. If you just want LPS and softies this is overkill and you could consider decreasing intensity.

@@saltypops4276 Definitely want a mix. Moving my LPS near the bottom of the tank, adding SPS to the top. Thanks for the info

Every week or 2, whenever I remember. They get a little bit of PE Mysis. I melt it and just let it fall on top.

Hello. I don’t have a blade specific program but this program is available for download and you can adapt it. I have it saved in the files section of the FaceBook group AI Prime/Hydra Reef Group. It is called Salty Pops.

Sorry for the delayed response tell me more about your tank. Lighting. Water quality. Etc.

@@saltypops4276 , thank you, I have a 10 gallon, Alk - 8.5, CA - 450 , Mg 1425. Feed reef roids , mysis . Lighting its your regiment of AI prime 16 HD. Do weekly water changes, SG 1025 . I could send you a screenshot of the tank if you give me where to send it.

@@g-reef clarifying question. are you adding the Polyp Booster? The amino acids and fatty acids are key.

@@saltypops4276 yes I am

Thank you for help

This is a common issue people battle with in-tank skimmers and it occurs for many reasons: 1 - is there a Powerhead or another pump near it. This can cause issues. The instructions will tell you not to place powerheads or pumps near it. 2 - could be running skim too high. How fast is your cup filling? That could be an indicator. 3 - internal airline could be “loosely attached” and may need replaced. 4 - pump inside could be clogged and need cleaning. Few other reasons but those are the big ones to check.