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@@Joe-iv5ks guilty as charged!! 😉

@@BRFCBlueWhiteArmy haha yes it is. Seems pretty goofy in hindsight. That’s actually a clip from a longer video where I decided that since my layout has a cross, we’d stage figure eight races. *No locomotives were damaged (very badly) during filming. 😉

@@Ionisus thank you so much!! 👍🏼

@@NitroStarGT thanks Nitro! 👍🏼

@@EricsTrainCorner merry Christmas Eric. 👍🏼

@@Susan-gc6sy I agree Susan, it’s very pricey here as well! Check out this video I did a while ago, about building it without the actual kit. Thanks for watching! 👍🏼 th-cam.com/video/91fLnhgZSpU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XeZmfP_gIo_i_Bo0

@@robgarcia1377 thank you Rob! Merry Christmas!

@@cliffkiehl2070 great points Cliff. Those are definitely important things to look out for and avoid! Thanks for watching! 👍🏼😎

@@markarnold8160 thanks Mark! Merry Christmas!

@@JSandage thanks Judy, to you also. ❤️

@@cliffkiehl2070 indeed!! 👍🏼

@@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267 the kit came with plaster for the roads, downtown and industrial areas. I used it for the roads but discovered it was too hard to work with. So I used 1/4” foam boards for the downtown and industrial areas.

@@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267 thank you so much! @FlyingCrow Robert is the man!! 👍🏼

@@blackthidot I never found a definite name on it, but I think it might be old Tyco. I found it second hand at the Rocky Mountain Show a few years ago.

@@DansGrandValleythanks Dan! Keep on making it easier for the rest of us buddy!

@@CoasterFan2103-r3d Atlas Code 83.

Hi Bob, I wouldn’t say it’s hard per-se. Some areas are certainly more challenging than others, but I found it to be more tedious than difficult in different areas. The plaster cloth process makes a huge mess, and ballasting the tracks were some of my least favorite parts. Adding scenery and building the town models were some of my favorite. As for expense, well there’s definitely no denying that it is an expensive hobby. But the kit is a money saver, and also the city and industry building kit. To buy all of those model kits separately would probably triple the cost of the set. DCC Controllers and Amp Boosters, Locos and running stock are expensive also, no doubt. To put a finite price on what I have here is impossible, but I would guess around $3-5k.

@@BobLay-t9i it took me about two to three full weekends to get it to the point where I could run trains on it. The rest, turf, trees, buildings and roads came along slowly over time. It is still not 100% done. Not sure it will ever be, but that’s what is nice about the hobby. You have something that you can continuously improve on. Thanks for watching Bob.

@@Lonewolfe7586 thanks for watching.

Rob, most of my box cars are 60 footers, but there are a few 40 footers in there as well. 60 footers would be approx 8 inches in real life, and 40 footers would be 6 inches.

@ ty Dan Happy Halloween all. Sure wish they had more Halloween cars under $30.

Thanks Rob.

Very cool, thanks I’ll try it!

Thanks Eric!

@@RVA1954 thanks for watching! 🤙🏼

@@johnathanlewis2049 thanks Johnathan! 👍🏼

@@BriansModelTrains thanks Brian. 🤙🏼

@@billsandage thanks pal! 👍🏼

@@computer5450 awesome! Thanks for watching!

@@mikechristensen2099 hi Mike. I sent it and a few other locos off to a friend in New Jersey to fix up for me. He got sick along the way and it has kept him from being able to finish them up. But he is on the mend, and we’re hoping he’ll be able to resume the work and get them back to me soon. I’ll be sure to shoot an update video when that happens. 👍🏼

@@DansGrandValley Thanks for the update

@@JSandage thanks Judy! ❤️

Sounds cool Donnie! I’ll def check it out.

When you visit the Lionel site, look up the following keywords in the search bar: Halloween, Transylvania and ELX. Under each subject page, there is an archive page that shows models no longer available also.

That’s def weird. The closest mine does to that is it takes one of the locos off my recall list, so I have to enter it in again separately. But usually only one of them. Try calling NCE, or resetting your power cab to factory settings, maybe that will help?

@@jackmalvern2394 thanks Jack!

@@robgarcia1377 thanks Rob!! 👍🏼

@@mikechristensen2099 thanks for watching Mike!! 👍🏼

Agreed. I made a new one a few years ago that changes it up a bit. It is much better.

Yes, you can run multiple trains with the powercab. Just watch them at the cross so they don't crash!

@@Eric-qe7bu I’ve heard of people converting the Grand Valley to N scale without issue. As for building it in reverse, I guess I can’t see why not. It would have to be a completely custom job, but I’m sure it’s doable. Great questions!

@@donnieshaffer741 thanks Donnie

@@JSandage thanks Judy.

The basic kit is available in many places, even Amazon. Check Tower Hobby, they sometimes have great coupons. factorydirecthobbies.com/products/woodland-scenics-1483-ho-grand-valley-layout-kit-ho-scale

@@DansGrandValley Thanks!

@@ivangillispie4186 they are Woodland Scenics Just Plug street lights.

I just looked at the just plug traffic signals. And I do not see any that look like the ones you use.

@@ivangillispie4186 hi Ivan, sorry you said street lights. I’m not sure the exact traffic signals that I used but they are very similar to these. www.ebay.com/itm/355810483359?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2wdT6BAmTP-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lp6siSErREC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If you check the comments below, I link to the controller and possibly discuss where I got the signals, but honestly I can’t remember.

@@MrKingjoe28 sure, code 100 will work just fine! 👍🏼

@@DansGrandValleycool thanks 🙏 I have read in other places where people say you can’t as these kits are made for code 83 and it won’t fit but I don’t see how it could be that far off I mean it’s not like you’re dealing with the next gauge up . Disclaimer I’m a noob level 10 and still stuck is never done a layout stage but also Trying to avoid having to spend tons of money and buy all new track

@@MrKingjoe28 ahh gotcha. No, the main difference between code 100 and code 83 track is the height of the rails. Code 83 looks a little more realistic compared to real life rails because it’s just a little bit shorter. But code 100 works better for models being just a little bit taller. You get less derailments, and issues with smaller radius turns. Typically code 100 has black railroad ties and usually needs to be painted, 83 typically comes with brown ties, however I’ve seen them both ways. As far as the size of the track itself, the width and curvature of the radius they are identical. You would have no problems even mixing and matching the two other than they are different heights. They do sell special rail joiners that compensate for the height, and I have mixed the two before. But just for aesthetics, I try to keep to one or the other.

@@DansGrandValley thank you so much for the in depth and helpful reply! So to be clear if I found the track list for this layout I could purchase said tracks as code 100 correct ? Like I say I already have a bunch of code 100 so it would save me a lot of money to be able to do so . I also have a piko sprinter train I got that I rather like to use and from what I read it only works on certain code 83 track so at least if I use the 100 I don’t have to worry about it not running a correctly as well .

@@MrKingjoe28 yes, code 100 will work just fine! Here’s the most up to date track plan. woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/instructionsNew/ST1483trackplan.pdf -Dan

@@thomasryan9639 the GVL is a 4’ x 8’ basic layout, but I added about 18” to the front of it for a small yard.

I think it would work well in N gauge. My only advice would be to eliminate the cross and go with an over-under there where the mains meet. It’s a fun layout and would be amazing in a smaller scale!