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If so my exhaust is too loud to notice. I think on a quiet bike it'd noticeably increase induction/suction noise, but personally that wouldn't bother me, I don't think it's a bad sound. However you don't want to switch to pod filters with the stock carbs, I've heard they're a nightmare to tune if you do. They're a nightmare to tune already (need a 4 gauge vacuum set at a minimum to balance them) but even worse with pod filters.

I've owned this bike more than a decade and I've worked on a lot of vehicles, couldn't tell ya what all I've done to this one 🤣

shut it

@@Chopper650 Nah'... I don't think So'... Bite me''!

10+ years ago 😅. When I first bought the bike I got it for $500 or so because it only ran on 2 cylinders. Replaced the spark units and that fixed it, ended up daily driving it during college for a few years and the problem didn't come back during that time. It was a great deal given that was such a cheap and easy fix. When troubleshooting the misfire I did swap the connectors on the two CDI units to see if it made any difference and it didn't. The cheap wires I originally assembled and put on were barely making any contact despite me taking the boots off and reassembling them a couple times, they were just garbage. It's possible the slight misfire at higher RPM's is still an ignition problem (you can hear it at 12:23), but I think it's just the carbs and the elevation - needs tuned for 10k+ feet. I'll try that and if it doesn't work I'll look back into the ignition system.

@@BuildSomethingAuto I have an 81 and I've seen this same problem on 3 of them, and heard of it on many more. I'm on the stock carbs but have considered the Murray's/Mikuni upgrade, but it looks like you did that and it didn't help. But I'm not dealing with high elevation so maybe it's apples and oranges. Anyway, pretty bike! Hope it starts behaving.

That sounds like a fun project! Hopefully the frame breaking didn't cause an accident..

I havent fixed it yet. You can get camber bushings that give a couple degrees of adjustment over stock, but if the camber is too far off youre stuck with either moving the pivots down or a "cut and turn" where you cut the beams, turn em outwards, and plate them into the new position. Moving the pivots down isnt optimal. It puts a lot of leverage on them and can make for some bad steering geometry, but the proper way, a cut and turn, is a lot more work. Theres also companys that sell beams that are already modified which is expensive but easier. The easiest solution is sticking with 2-3" of lift instead of 4-6" 😅. But theres solutions if you need the bigger lift.

Theyre at either www.buildautomedia.com/gridfinity Or thangs.com

Hey there. I’ve heard very good comments about the Neptune 3 plus. Can you point me to where I can buy used ones?

@antoniosoto801 I bought mine directly from elaagoo them selves. They had a sale going on for labor day I think.

Awesome tip!! I gave this a try and this software looks even better than the ones I recommended. The interface is easy to use like Zephyr and almost all the tips I gave on Zephyr would apply. It's a more professional interface. The models it produced using the same dataset have less errors and the export format seems more compatible with CAD. The only issue is you have to download unreal engine which is a 15 GB file, as well as the epic game installer, but other than that this looks like the best option. It's just a better, and free for all features, Zephyr. I'm pinning your comment, thanks for pointing this out!

@@BuildSomethingAuto Great, yes it is very easy to use ( I just scanned parts of my truck with it) You should only need a Epic games account and the installer form there website to use it, but I could be wrong cause I use it with epic games launcher as I have this on my PC already. Hope this helps, thanks for the pin!

Thank you! I actually ended up figuring it out! The pickup in the tank was plugged full, mustve been a wasp nest or something in there I didnt see when I first cleaned the tank. th-cam.com/video/SeONzwvF0Vk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ThYfWPqpBGDSLj_r It probably started again because it wasnt air leaking in, it just couldnt suck enough fuel through the blockage. Although this things always been a cinch to bleed its never given me issues. It does have a lift pump, a mechanical one driven off the camshaft. I also had issues with that in the same video, aparently online theyre selling 4 cylinder lift pumps and calling them 6 cylinder pumps. I did cut back the fenders after this. Im running out of clearancing options since at this point the fenders basically trimmed to the floorboard 🤣. 37s are just a hair big, but theyre working so far.

no 🤣. However I wouldn't be surprised if it fit and packaged better. The cummins is so long it caused problems, trading some of that length for width would make things easier, prevent you from needing to cutup the body I think. However at this point I now own the straight 6 diesel in the explorer, and the v8 detroit diesel in my truck, and ironically the explorer with the straight 6 is WAY easier to work on despite the engine being so much harder to fit. All the injectors, valves, injection pump, etc being right on top in the open just makes things simple. Not to feed the brand wars but serviceability has made me a big fan of straight 6 over v8 diesels! Packaging vs serviceability, pros and cons.

@BuildSomethingAuto You did a great job on that wagon. I've done the research and the powerstroke should fit ok but there's alot of work and details you run into when retrofitting engines as you know but it will be awesome if I can pull it off.

I ended up rebuilding the transmission in the next video: th-cam.com/video/xma_BohVeww/w-d-xo.html The only obvious issue was the 5th gear nut backed off and the gear started to shear the output shaft splines and move around, a known issue on these transmissions. I upgraded the mainshaft and did a full rebuild, a bunch of work but it's good to know the transmission should be bullet proof now!

Good point! Although I over generalized in the video, I think the important thing to remember is that China will build things to your spec. If you spec high quality, and implement high QC standards, it can be built well even coming from China. The problem is that often things are made there for the opposite reason - because corners and costs can be cut. Being made in China doesn't mean it can't be high quality, it just means it isn't necessarily so. I've heard stories that 2 different products in China could be built on the same production line by the same people, but when the lower QC standard companies products come onto the line they roll the brand new, tight, nice production equipment off the line, and roll in the old clapped out loose tolerance equipment, since they know they aren't hitting as tight of tolerances anyways and there's no need to wear out their nice equipment. Not sure if that's true or not, but I worked in manufacturing for a time and I can absolutely see that being the case 😅.

Still only 14 mpg 😅. However that's city, not highway, and I have a long steep canyon drive to get anywhere from my house. When I was thinking it'd be a lot higher I must've been looking at people who had the 6.5 in a lot lighter vehicles - suburbans half tons humvee's etc. This truck is about the biggest vehicle you could buy with it minus a dually, extended cab extended bed 1 ton 24' long around 7500 lb. So I guess I was overly optimistic about the mileage once fixed. The place it'd make a big difference vs a gasser would be towing, but I don't have any experience towing with this yet all my experience is with gas vehicles - used to getting 7 or 8 mpg towing with those.

Thanks for sticking around so long! There's only 1 other explorer/ranger chassis 6BT build I know of, and that one did as you're saying and pushed back the firewall and left the fenders and hood stock. HOWEVER this was on a second gen explorer which Ford put V8's in stock, the engine bays on those are even bigger than on a 1st gen explorer if I recall correctly, which is even bigger than on an 89 ranger (I think, you'd need to verify). On his build the firewall went far enough back that his throttle foot was basically wedged against the trans tunnel. If you could find some explorers at a junkyard you could measure the engine bay dimensions and see how much harder an 89 ranger would be than a later chassis, or if they happen to be similar sizes it may be possible! edit: one other thing I just remembered he did differently that made a big difference was he didn't use the cummins rad, and he mounted the intercooler horizontally under the engine. I could've save 5-7" probably if I had used a thinner rad and moved the intercooler, but I wanted the most cooling and power possible and the option to use aftermarket cummins stuff if desired, so I wanted the cooling package to be stock cummins-like. www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/cummins-explorer.347671/ The easiest way would be to body swap the ranger onto a cummins chassis. Westen Champlin just bought a build that was done this way. The only reason I didn't do this was because I wanted something smaller and lighter than a full size rig for the trails I do. Next easiest would include a large body lift. If you also remove the engine crossmember and go to a lower tubular one, possibly a solid axle swap as well to get it as low as possible, that would help get the engine even lower which allows you to slide it even back further. The goal would be to keep the engine low and back as far as possible. Either way find a donor and take really good measurements before you start! One thing this build has taught me, is to be a diehard inline engine fan. Inline 6's are just so much easier to work on it's a gem compared to say, the V8 detroit in my truck. After working on V8's for so long I can't believe how nice inline engines are to work on, every job takes a quarter as long, and there's some jobs you can do in chassis whereas you'd need to pull the engine on a V8. Another inline 6 you could consider is an OM606 3.0L mercedes diesel. It's an inline 6 just like a 6BT, but much smaller in dimensions. You can swap a mechanical pump onto it and it ends up basically exactly like a mini cummins, the pump is even a p-pump like a 12 valve. They even made an inline 5, OM605, which isn't as long if the 6 cylinder is still too long. These are light, smaller for swaps, rev really high and make good power with a few mods (I wouldn't leave it stock), but won't make nearly as much torque lower in the RPM range than a 6BT thanks to the size (but still more than a gasser). For my next swap I've been heavily eyeing an OM606 ranger build, but built to be more of a street/desert build to take advantage of the engines revs and lightness rather than a rock crawler/overlander like the explorer with it's crazy low end torque but higher weight and lower rev limit. I'd recommend Diesel Pump UK for OM606 stuff, his channel is great. www.youtube.com/@DieselPumpUK Keep me updated if you endup doing this! I'd love to see pictures!

@@BuildSomethingAuto wow. Thank you so much. There’s probably nobody else on TH-cam that would take the time to go into so much detail like you have. I actually appreciate it so much and I have so much respect for you. I’ll definitely take your advice and do a few measurements on the 2nd gen explorer. I’ll likely go with as much of a body lift as possible without it looking strange. I also see what you were referring to with the intercooler underneath the frame rails (which scares me considering anything could fly up and put a hole in it). I’m not sure how I would change that but I’m not a fan. I also don’t want to take up any bed space with a fuel cell or radiators. It’s actually so cool that so many things on the 2nd gen explorer mated up to the dodge so easily. I’m sure the Ranger will be VERY similar to your explorer. I actually own a 1st gen explorer as well that I bought for parts and they’re basically the same vehicle. I’m also a fan of Westin Champlin and his video with the Cummins Ranger only made me more jealous Lol. Nobody does it like you though.. I hope you do start a new project soon, I can’t wait to follow it. Maybe I’ll try to film my build and post it as well. Again, thank you so much! Edit: I’ve thought about doing other diesel swaps and I think at this point I just want to be able to say I put a Cummins in it Haha. If you do decide to go through with the OM606 swap then you may change my mind. If I could suggest anything from a viewers perspective, I think it’s really interesting to see where you buy/find your engine at for the swap. There’s so many cool 4bt swaps out there but 0 videos of where the engine is coming from. Which is insane considering SO many ppl are pulling them from tractors, equipment, and step vans. I think that’s one of the most interesting parts.

@@donotedit4646 Of course! It's just great having other people to talk to that are interested in this stuff 🤣. On mine I would've loved to show more of picking up the truck and deciding on a drivetrain and such, but I had bought the truck and planned the swap years before I started a youtube channel. For future builds I will definitely show more of planning the build, buying the donor, etc. Thanks for the tip.

@@BuildSomethingAuto Hey there!, I’ve been doing more digging and I’ve actually found a few different 6bt swaps in various year model Rangers. One of the more interesting ones being this one ⬇️ th-cam.com/video/MgHixX37lb0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hXUbTXgKBpRHqxvn There’s actually a few videos of the truck on his Channel. He doesn’t go into any detail on the swap whatsoever haha. But as you’ll see, he had enough room to do custom long tube headers and managed to keep the whole truck looking stock. In his other short videos on it, he shows the interior which has the complete stock interior and dash. (He even has air conditioning lol) I’m not sure how he did it so well without having to do a body lift, a front clip extension, etc. Anyways, I just thought I’d share with you.. that’s all I needed to see to reassure myself haha. Maybe you’ll have your own opinion/words on it. Its apparent that this guy has plenty of money, which definitely helps lol. Thanks for reading. Edit: I assume he maybe ditched the stock engine crossmember and sat the engine and trans down as low as possible like you suggested to me before. Although, the valve cover seems to be in a tolerable spot. I’m really interested in what you think about it.

@@donotedit4646 Very interesting find! Thanks for sharing that! Sorry it took so long to respond, your comment was hidden due to the link and I just noticed to unhide it. I agree he probably has money, that is a clean truck. I love stepsides. To me it looks like he did basically everything we talked about, here's my thoughts. First, it's a 3rd gen ranger (corresponds to 2nd gen explorer) and I think those engine bays are bigger (haven't confirmed). Second, it looks like he used the stock radiator, and then mounted the intercooler horizontally underneath. I think this is why he did "long tube" headers, to move the turbo way low down closer to the intercooler (at first I thought it was NA which didn't make any sense 🤣). This is the biggest difference, I think it would would save 7" or so. This helps packaging but like you said puts the intercooler in danger of rocks and such, the long tubes mean less heat to the turbo so less power, plus it means the intercooler isn't getting forced air so less power. Also I'd be pretty worried about a stock ranger sized radiator keeping up, definitely wouldn't be comfortable modifying the engine with the smaller rad. Definitely some compromises doing it that way, but it certainly kept the truck looking clean. Third, I agree that he was able to mount the engine lower and further back. That gen ranger used IFS instead of TTB, so I wonder if it's easier to mount it lower in those. I also wonder if it's 2WD, I don't see buttons on the dash for 4wd, this may help get it lower as well if there's no front diff. I think mounting it that low would've saved 2-3". Very interesting!

Im not sure ive never worked on one. Id recommend getting a repair manual, theyre invaluable. Forums are also a useful resource if you can find one for your bike.

If the bolt is a sliding fit,, rather than being an interference fit, it isnt tight enough to ensure the load is distributed all the way around the bolt. "Perfect" fit is subjective to what type of joint you need, see the machinery's handbook for dozens of different fits based on application. In this case a slip fit doesnt have the longevity of an interference fit. You need an interference fit to ensure force along the tie rod is transferred 360 degrees across the entire face of the bolt, which is why tapered connections are used on stock steering. Slip fit joints are fine if you dont plan on putting many miles on, but for street vehicles it develops slop at higher mileage.

It's convenient to frame sexuality as a mindset, since it allows one to justify their own bigotry, but hopefully for your sake one day you understand that noone chooses who they're attracted to. Given your phrasing, presumably you're christian. Since you're already praying, I recommend meditating on the stories of jesus and ask yourself if the intended lessons to be learned are of disgust and hate, or instead to spread acceptance and love. Best of luck friend.

@@BuildSomethingAuto I have no hate or disgust toward you, it's directed at your practices and the corruption of kids. Yes, I am Christian. And yes, you can control who you are attracted to at the snap of a finger lol. It's based upon your viewpoints and how you think.

If your love for your wife or past girlfriends is based on your viewpoints and how you think, and could be changed at the snap of a finger, then I'm truly sorry you've never felt real love. Hopefully one day you'll experience it. For those of us lucky enough to have found it, we know that isn't how it works. I'm interested in saving kids lives, not corrupting them. LGBT kids are in danger, rates of suicide and hate crimes against them are appalling compared to non-LGBT kids. Spreading love and acceptance saves lives, whilst spreading hate takes away lives. On behalf of this conversation, I'll donate a few dollars to the Trevor Project. That way at least something good will have come of it. If you truly care about kids maybe you'll do the same, preferably to a charity that is known to help kids not one that has been known to harm them.

I fixed the starter clutch in this video, but still had carb issues and had problems finding parts. 2 years later its finally running, new video on it in 2 weeks or so.

If your starter isn't spinning fast enough then the clutch won't engage (I probably should have talked about this in the video). I'd make sure you have a good battery, good cables/connections, and a good starter. You could try hooking jumper cables up to it to see if it spins the starter faster and if that helps it catch better. Good luck.

I believe so, but I'm not positive. I'd try and find an exploded parts diagram, or a service manual to verify.

I was wondering the same thing. I’m pretty sure it is, waiting on my FSM.

Ive heard that theyre junk, but Ive never actually used them since my first explorer, the green first gen, was swapped to manual hubs by the previous owner. I did own a 2nd gen for a short time, maybe I was mixing it up with that.

Youve gotta start somewhere 😅

@@BuildSomethingAuto i was thinking about manufacturer. Bought similar few years ago. Lift, massive tractor tires, snorkel, special paint for bushes etc. Straight after transaction i went test it and cannot exit muddy puddle xD I was so fixed at monster truck looking totally miss idea it could still be open diff.. ^^

Yes! This is another reason Id argue that in the front an expensive selectable locker is even less necessary. When I eventually get a locker in the front the manual hubs make it "selectable" even if it were a full spool.