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Mostly because the stock hood was almost 10" too short after pushing the radiator forward to fit the big inline 6 turbodiesel 😅. I had to stretch the fenders previously for the same reason. I also added a hood stack for the exhaust, but the primary functionality is keeping the snow and rain out.

Thank you! Ive got another one in the works 😅 unfortunately itll be a while before I collect everything I need, but this certainly wont be the last!

@ I cannot wait lol. Awesome

Bingo! I do plan on making it as light as possible, but my biggest concern is functionality. I still plan on adding a winch for example. Front end weight was never going to be right after swapping in a 1200 lb cummins, I tried to mitigate that by using modified F250 front suspension (they came with similar sized engines). Overall it's going to be incredibly heavy for an explorer, but incredibly light compared to a full size diesel truck!

Thanks tony, glad to still see you around after all these years 🤣. I've said this a lot, but its getting close!

@BuildSomethingAuto I've absolutely enjoyed watching the progress of this very cool rig. I'm a big fan of TTBs, so that's what initially caught my attention, but the whole series has been a learning experience and a good watch to say the least!

That'll be quite the swap! I think running both computers is done commonly. The biggest obstacle even in that case is the dash, getting all the sensors from the engine to interface with gauges that never came with that engine. One thing to remember is you might lose your check engine light, which if you have emissions to pass you may need to look into. If I were you I'd start by finding factory service manuals for the engine AND the car and start looking through wiring diagrams, figuring out what needs to stay with the car and what needs to stay with the engine, and how you plan on doing the tachometer, temperature sensors, etc. Other options for making the dash work include doing what I did and going completely custom if you want to learn about electronics (code and schematics here www.buildautomedia.com/blogs/bam-blog/arduino-dash-test). However an OBD2 compatible aftermarket dash is likely cheapest and easiest, something like an edge insight, it just plugs into your existing OBD2 port and if the engine and body are both post 1996 they're both OBD2 compatible by law. The most expensive option is of course a complete replacement holley dash or similar.

I agree do what the manufacturer states, however its often vague. If the manufacturer says to lube the threads, then I dont think theres any vagueness, the head needs lubed as well. If they say to apply threadlock to clean threads, i think theres an argument that threadlocker (depending on grade) also functions as a lubricant during assembly and the intent is that the torque spec is "wet" in which case you should also apply a lubricant to the head. Frankly I think most engineers arent adding on a "dry friction factor" when designing the joint, theyre just assuming its a low friction (e.g. wet) torque. Partly due to simplicity, and sometimes due to ignorance. Im happy to be proven wrong on this though, maybe they are adding dry friction factors and I just havent seen it. I cut some of the discussion out of the video, but I used to work as a civilian mechanical engineer for the navy, and part of my job was writing procedures for assembling equipment. Essentially anywhere we specified threadlock, we also explicitly called out some lubricant under the head and on the washer, be it antisieze, molikote, grease, etc. If the threads werent dry (and they never were), regardless of if the threads had threadlock or lubricant, the head ans washer got lubricated. Its possible other industries do it differently, navy tends to be overly conservative with this stuff, but thats just my experience.

Thank you! One issue with 2 hoods is that the outside channels angle inwards, they arent perfectly straight. So if I cut one hood further back than the other the channels would also be further out, if that makes sense, they wouldnt line up. I didnt actually get a second hood to test this though its possible thered be a way to make it work. Frankly with how thin the sheet metal was im hesitant to ever want to work with stock sheet metal again 😅

They really didn't 😅. It was only used on really heavy duty front ends (dana 50, dana 44 HD), and those front ends had next to no articulation as a result. It worked fine for the trucks it was put in, but if you want any real articulation then you're correct, the leaves have to go.

Have you tried it? I designed a front bumper based on this scan and others, it was definitely usable for that! Im not sure how much more the average DIYer would need... I havent tried the newest versions of these scanners, maybe theyve gotten better, but 5 or 10 years ago they werent any better from a quality or workflow perspective than this, not in the $500-$2000 price range at least. Perhaps one day Ill try a newer scanner and see how much better theyve gotten, but at this point I have no reason to with how good photogrammetry actually is.

it's not, but it's decent quality. I'm not actually aware of any made in the US. I have recommendations on my website, bottom of the page: www.buildautomedia.com/gridfinity

Kaizen foam is foam used for kaizen 😉. The reason I use that term is because when you search for it thats what comes up immediately. The "lean" idea is that everything has its place and you can immediately visually tell if things are missing which can be accomplished by outlining each tool as a cutout in the foam, similar to a "shadow board". This is why I said it takes so much space because stacking tools would be against this visual principle and so would putting multiple things in a single bin. Great for production, bad for space.

Yup, as far as the budget question I just cant see hobby project car builders justifying $1000 or more on a scanner, the moneys just better spent elsewhere for one off builds. That price tag only makes sense when youre a youtuber getting your scanner for free, or if youre earning money with it (or spending tax payer money to buy it 😅). Good tips on getting better scans. I used my phone and did it with the worst case outside on a sunny day to demonstrate that even with the minimum viable setup its still possible, and that you dont even need to coat your entire car in baby powder or 3D scan targets, or having professional lighting, or whatever else. Maybe next time Ill use my real camera, set up real lights, etc, to see how it comes out when you do put in maximum effort. That would probably be worth doing for scanning the undercarriage to pickup suspension mounting points and such.

I've been considering an OM606 build for quite a while. I don't think it'll happen anytime soon, but its absolutely on my radar!

If so my exhaust is too loud to notice. I think on a quiet bike it'd noticeably increase induction/suction noise, but personally that wouldn't bother me, I don't think it's a bad sound. However you don't want to switch to pod filters with the stock carbs, I've heard they're a nightmare to tune if you do. They're a nightmare to tune already (need a 4 gauge vacuum set at a minimum to balance them) but even worse with pod filters.

I've owned this bike more than a decade and I've worked on a lot of vehicles, couldn't tell ya what all I've done to this one 🤣

shut it

@@Chopper650 Nah'... I don't think So'... Bite me''!

10+ years ago 😅. When I first bought the bike I got it for $500 or so because it only ran on 2 cylinders. Replaced the spark units and that fixed it, ended up daily driving it during college for a few years and the problem didn't come back during that time. It was a great deal given that was such a cheap and easy fix. When troubleshooting the misfire I did swap the connectors on the two CDI units to see if it made any difference and it didn't. The cheap wires I originally assembled and put on were barely making any contact despite me taking the boots off and reassembling them a couple times, they were just garbage. It's possible the slight misfire at higher RPM's is still an ignition problem (you can hear it at 12:23), but I think it's just the carbs and the elevation - needs tuned for 10k+ feet. I'll try that and if it doesn't work I'll look back into the ignition system.

@@BuildSomethingAuto I have an 81 and I've seen this same problem on 3 of them, and heard of it on many more. I'm on the stock carbs but have considered the Murray's/Mikuni upgrade, but it looks like you did that and it didn't help. But I'm not dealing with high elevation so maybe it's apples and oranges. Anyway, pretty bike! Hope it starts behaving.

That sounds like a fun project! Hopefully the frame breaking didn't cause an accident..

I havent fixed it yet. You can get camber bushings that give a couple degrees of adjustment over stock, but if the camber is too far off youre stuck with either moving the pivots down or a "cut and turn" where you cut the beams, turn em outwards, and plate them into the new position. Moving the pivots down isnt optimal. It puts a lot of leverage on them and can make for some bad steering geometry, but the proper way, a cut and turn, is a lot more work. Theres also companys that sell beams that are already modified which is expensive but easier. The easiest solution is sticking with 2-3" of lift instead of 4-6" 😅. But theres solutions if you need the bigger lift.

Theyre at either www.buildautomedia.com/gridfinity Or thangs.com

Hey there. I’ve heard very good comments about the Neptune 3 plus. Can you point me to where I can buy used ones?

@antoniosoto801 I bought mine directly from elaagoo them selves. They had a sale going on for labor day I think.

Awesome tip!! I gave this a try and this software looks even better than the ones I recommended. The interface is easy to use like Zephyr and almost all the tips I gave on Zephyr would apply. It's a more professional interface. The models it produced using the same dataset have less errors and the export format seems more compatible with CAD. The only issue is you have to download unreal engine which is a 15 GB file, as well as the epic game installer, but other than that this looks like the best option. It's just a better, and free for all features, Zephyr. I'm pinning your comment, thanks for pointing this out!

@@BuildSomethingAuto Great, yes it is very easy to use ( I just scanned parts of my truck with it) You should only need a Epic games account and the installer form there website to use it, but I could be wrong cause I use it with epic games launcher as I have this on my PC already. Hope this helps, thanks for the pin!

Thank you! I actually ended up figuring it out! The pickup in the tank was plugged full, mustve been a wasp nest or something in there I didnt see when I first cleaned the tank. th-cam.com/video/SeONzwvF0Vk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ThYfWPqpBGDSLj_r It probably started again because it wasnt air leaking in, it just couldnt suck enough fuel through the blockage. Although this things always been a cinch to bleed its never given me issues. It does have a lift pump, a mechanical one driven off the camshaft. I also had issues with that in the same video, aparently online theyre selling 4 cylinder lift pumps and calling them 6 cylinder pumps. I did cut back the fenders after this. Im running out of clearancing options since at this point the fenders basically trimmed to the floorboard 🤣. 37s are just a hair big, but theyre working so far.