วีดีโอ

Thank you for stopping by. I appreciate that. This truck is going to be a great one of a kind. Woooo!!

That is great to hear. Mine is performing great as well. Thank you for your feed back!

Incorrect, the trucks steering wheel and wheels are dead on straight. If you were to purchased a used rack, there would not be any reference marks for the re-installation once rebuilt. These two videos were about rebuilding a rack not the installation onto a vehicle. Its not a bad idea, maybe I’ll do a video on this one day. For now there are plenty of videos out there showing someone how to center and reinstall the rack.

The kit I ordered did not come with sleeves for the uppers. Don't know if it was packed incorrectly or not supplied with this kit. The company never answered my email sent to them. I was in a hurry to get the front end back together. I ended up finding a local shop that took the measurements from the bushing and bolt and cut four sleeves for me. I thought I covered that in the video. My apologizes for not mentioning what I had to do. The upper bushings need to have the sleeves to perform correctly.

I have never had an issue with removing them. I have always used a small amount on all my vehicles. I did go back after this video and cleaned off all the “extra” I put on the studs. Its not recommended to use on studs at all but I do.

I used two different brand drill bits, Milwaukee and Ryobi. My Ryobi bits have been great drill bits and have not failed me. Now they were purchased six plus years ago so I don’t know the quality of new ones yet. They have stayed sharp for me. Now with that said…. I have slowly broken most of the smaller Ryobi bits, hence having to use the Milwaukee bits. I have not used the Milwaukee long enough to really have an opinion on them….yet. I will purchase more Ryobi’s and hope they have kept the same quality. I did step the bits up while drilling out the welds. I never went smaller then an 1/8” bit. It was just easier on the arms stepping up bits while drilling out so many welds. There is a much more to come with auto body work. I am currently getting our 88 Ford Bronco body parts in and we will be getting started on that very soon. Give us a try and Subscribe to the channel! I appreciate your feedback and comment! Thanks, Chris, aka Fix the Rust Bucket.

It could be one broken part/location or a combination of broken locations that are causing the issue. Its a bit hard to figure out not seeing it in person. I would start where the steering shaft exits the fire wall and work down. Your truck should be equipped with an intermediate shaft and a lower intermediate shaft, the universal joint could have broke inside the boot. That would give you a noise with no wheel movement. If not, then possibly the input shaft or steering rack has broken/stripped gears. Thanks for the question. I hope I was able to point you in a good direction to start looking. FTRB.

I first tried a socket attached to an extension, that did not work. I then used my picks and taped them to long screwdrivers. The seals are not easy to remove, and you don't want to scratch any part of the inside of the "tube" that could potentially cause a leak. Here is a link to the Fix the Rust Bucket Facebook Page, I posted some pictures of the picks and seal after it was removed. facebook.com/fixtherustbucket This one was stuck really hard in there. I had to free up the sides first, then I was able to pick and pull the seal and white hard plastic rings out. This was for both of the seals. I hope this helps a bit more and helps you with yours.

@@fixtherustbucket appreciate your time and effort 👌

I appreciate that. Thank you.

He is a link to Fix The Rust Bucket Facebook Page. I show how I was able to get the inner seals out. m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0eqDu2nvdV5ECX1exu2xHfQyaBtbpZfX4xunmPLgrohK7g5VYMSZkzdhDCVMJfZZol&id=100076272223571&mibextid=Nif5oz

Thank you, I appreciate that.

Thank you Kevin! I was worried that the firewall might have been pushed in a bit. After mutable measurements on both sides, it seemed to be in line with the rest of the truck. I would wear a Mill Gap Farms hat no problem. I have looked on www.millgapfarms.com and see all of the wonderful Organic Maple Syrup Products your family makes, but did not see a MGF hat. I am wrapping up the rocker panel this weekend.

Unfortunately there is no specific kit for what I installed. I pieced everything together from www.rockauto.com. I wanted everything heavy duty so I had to order individual parts to get what I wanted. I reused the original upper and lower control arms, axle spindles, Springs, and hardware.

Yea, I know. I over used it to see if it caused the lug nuts to come loose. After I completed this video, I cleaned it all off and put back a normal amount on all four corners.

Yes a little goes a long way. I stated in the video that this was an excessive amount and not needed.

As far as I remember, you were not sitting next to me while I was completing this….. Look at the very end of the video…. The rack guide screw has been set to the right adjustment for this particular rack and pinion. I will not give someone a specific toque specification as all rack and pinions differ per make, model, and year.

Tightening to 40 nm feels a bit loose but i have never had a wheel fly off.

Email me at fixtherustbucket@gmail.com. I will see what I can do to help answer your question.

Its has been said you can. I have tried that way but with little success.

Yes, there are O-rings on the end of the lines where they install onto the pinion housing. It would not hurt to replace them during the rebuild. I did not have any at the time and the ones here still looked good. If you're going to rebuild a rack, it would be easier to replace them at this time then find a leak later. I should have pointed that out.

I appreciate that, thank you.

@@fixtherustbucket I subed & like can't wait to see more

I do not have a location where vehicles can be left for me to work on. To try and diagnose a mechanical issue over the phone would not be fair to you. There can be more than one problem causing the issue. **Without seeing the vehicle this is just a guess at one of many issues it could be. Go over your vehicles entre ignition system including lock cylinder.

I cannot recall where all the parts came from. I get parts from multiple vendors. I should have posted a list back when I did this video. Here is what I can still recall... HUBs were from Rock Auto - WJB WA515054HD Sway bar end links and bushings. - Summit Racing ENS-3-5178R (Energy Suspension) Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushing kit is also Energy Suspension, probably from Summit Racing as well. Upper and Lower ball joints- Rock Auto - Upper do not recall number. Lower ball joint Mevotech MK6539 Outer Tie Rods also Rock Auto, do not recall part number.

Thank you so much 😊

I appreciate that, thank you.