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@@JulieJulie-le5tu glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

@@masterchipp I buy all my wire at Riogrande.com.

@@Door44Studios <3 ty

@@kimwaterton5164 I'm so glad you found this tutorial helpful! And I agree that the standard fish hooks hang in a very unattractive way. Welcome to Door 44 and thanks for watching!

@@lesleyeden3580 it is a lazy Susan. I bought it at Hobby Lobby years ago. They no longer sell them, but Michaels sells one that's very similar. Mine was originally black. I painted it blue. Best investment ever! I love it.

@@lesleyeden3580 it is interesting stuff. Glad you enjoyed this video. Thanks for watching!

@@editajacunskiene2423 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@captmicha if your weave is nice and tidy, the ends should not unravel. I have several well-worn pieces of jewelry that show no signs of unraveling after years of frequent wear. As for tucking the ends, I tried to demonstrate the difference in this video. Tucked ends seem to inevitably catch on clothing or hair, and that's when things begin to unravel. All that being said, this is just my personal preference. It's the method of finishing wires that has always worked best for me. You should do what works best for you. There are lots of artists who feel that cutting and tucking their ends works perfectly well for them. 🤷

My needle nose pliers and flush cutters are Swanstrom tools, which I purchased from Rio Grande. My pliers are several years old, so I can't say for sure if the exact models are still available. But you'll find comparable tools at riogrande.com. For more affordable beginner to intermediate level tools, you can shop my Amazon store here: www.amazon.com/shop/door44studios

@Door44Studios Thank you so much! I will continue to watch your TH-cam channel as you are very descriptive in your teaching! Thanks again!!🤎

@@andaisshadows5285 I usually just estimate where that bend needs to go. It's a little less than the halfway point. The exact measurement will vary depending on the size of the bead you're using. So, for instance, if you're using a 6mm bead, you'll want your bend to start at 3mm from the center of your wire. Does that make sense? It doesn't have to be precise and you'll find that you will learn to eyeball those measurements with practice and experience.

@@Door44Studios Thanks, I'll practice this technique with different sized beads to get a feel for it. Very informative video .

@@karie9890 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@deanasnarky3903 Riogrande.com. They sell any type of jewelry wire you can ask for. I buy my copper wire in bulk on one-pound spools.

Rio grande

Rio Grand

@@bluefire1800 I buy all my chain from Rio Grande. Rio grande.com. Search for copper flash plated chain.

@@chrisd4459 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@cwagner641 good question! Yes, you can mix a fresh solution every time you ball wire ends. That's what I've been doing since I've had to cut back on jewelry making lately. As for the toxicity question, that answer isn't as simple. It depends. If the solution remains colorless, you can neutralize it with baking soda and dispose of it much like I describe neutralizing and disposing of liver of sulphur solution in my patina tutorial. If, however, you batch all your hot work in one day and that results in a visibly blue pickle solution, then it's best to dispose of it safely at a hazardous waste facility. Another thing you can do is dedicate a sturdy disposable container of some sort. I like to use plastic sugar or coffee containers. Then leave your pickle solution uncovered (make sure it's safely out of reach of children or pets) so the liquid can evaporate. You'll be left with trace amounts of copper sulfates in the bottom of your pickle pot, which you can then dump in that plastic container. It will take quite a long time to fill that container with sulfate residue. Months to years, depending on how frequently you pickle wire. And when it does eventually get full, or when you have other household hazardous waste to dispose of (whichever comes first), you can then take it to your local hazardous waste facility. Just make sure that storage container is clearly marked and stored safely out of reach of little hands and paws in the meantime.

@Door44Studios Thank you so much for your quick response!! Great tutorials. Thank you for taking the time to do them!

@cwagner641 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@marian1576 thank you! I agree that this is a super important skill for all jewelry makers. No matter what type of media they use. Thanks for watching! 🙂

@@judybogle7426 yes That's the nature of copper. It doesn't happen quickly, though, and it's preventable if you understand that copper jewelry requires routine maintenance. I use Sunshine polishing cloths to keep my copper jewelry looking its best. Just a quick swipe with a polishing cloth before I put my jewelry on in the morning keeps my jewelry looking great year round.

@ Isn’t there a spray you can put on the copper right after you finish the piece to keep it from darkening ? I bought a can a long time ago but never actually used it. And can’t remember the name of it.

@judybogle7426 yes, there are a number of different clear coats that you can use to protect your finish. But, in my opinion, clear coats only complicate the maintenance process. It's much more difficult to restore the finish on jewelry that has been clear coated than it is to maintain the finish on uncoated metals.

@@Door44Studios isn’t it hard to clean links you’ve made using the sunshine cloth. My problem I guess is I prefer the shiny clean copper instead of the old penny look. Anyway, I must tell you, you are a magnificent artist AND teacher. So happy I found your site. 🙏. ♥️. 🙏.

@judybogle7426 it is harder to maintain a shiny new copper finish for sure. I prefer the depth that patina adds and an antiqued finish is quite easy to maintain. So, yes, if bright copper is your jam, then a clear coat is the way to go. Unfortunately, I can't recommend a product for you because I don't use any of them. 🤷

@@judybogle7426 thank you. And thanks for watching!

@@moniquelalonde5970 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@ooohlaa13 yes, you can. I prefer to use wood because there's no risk of marring or flattening the wire. But you can certainly use two metal surfaces for this technique. Just be gentle when placing your bench block on top of your wire.

@@Door44Studios oh wow I didn't know u were using wood I assumed a regular bench block from the sound. But Just went back and you clearly have shining metal that you discuss has a base??? So you are using it looks to me as metal on metal but you are saying wood??? I didnt know you can use wood as a bench block, am I totally confused??? Yes. Sorry I didn't absorb it correctly went back several times?? but liked and sub'd. already

@ooohlaa13 I think I misunderstood your question. My bench block is made of hardened steel and it sits in a hard rubber base, which helps minimize noise and also helps my bench block stay put on my workbench. As for your original question, yes, you can use the metal surface of your vice instead of a bench block. But the advantage of a good quality bench block is that it has a very smooth surface whereas your vice may have a rough textured surface. Any texture on the surface beneath your wire will be transferred to the back of your wire while you hammer it from above. This is the same principle that allows rolling mills to transfer the texture of a metal stencil onto sheet metal. So, it kind of depends on your personal design aesthetic. If you like a more rustic feel for your jewelry then a bit of texture can be a good thing. But if you're like me and you prefer a more refined look, then you'll want the smoother surface of a high quality bench block because it'll require a lot less sanding and polishing to achieve that more refined and polished finish. Does that make sense?

@@Door44Studios yes that is what I assumed. Depending on what I'm doing I like rustic AND smooth, but I love the elegance of what u created here, fine jewelry level, so I guess I will purchase. Do you recall where you bought it? Also so what was the wood you were speaking of I missed something. Blessings, great feedback.🙏❤

@@ooohlaa13 look under the "Tools" section of the video description for this video and you'll find a link to the bench block that I use. I bought mine from Rio Grande, but the exact same one is available on Amazon for about the same price. The wood I referenced is the hardwood wedge from my ring clamp. I often use it along with my bench block to straighten my wire before I start forming it. I thought I used that technique in this video but I did not. Hence the confusion. 🤣

@@ooohlaa13 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@fuzzylimefairy thank you for the feedback. I'll take it under consideration.

@@georgiamorgan119 thank you! I'm so glad you found this video helpful. My background is in technical writing and corporate training. Those skills have turned out to be quite useful for TH-cam! 😊

@@PaulaCiemko my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

You can get the free project starter guide, but you will have to get the password to my free resource library first. Just go to this address and request a password: door44studios.com/library-opt-in/ Once you're in the library, look for resource file #106, which you'll find about half way down the page. Enjoy!

@@Door44Studios thankyou so much for your help

@@Door44Studios found it thank you

@@aramayicart27 you're very welcome. 🙂

@@I_Tell_it_like_it_is thanks for letting me know. I'll fix that link. In the meantime, that same source does sell half hard wire. You'll just have to search for it in their shop. Have fun! 🙂

@@SandyGingera you're very welcome. Thanks for watching! 😊

@@Iretaip I'm so glad this video was helpful! Thanks for watching. 😊

@@AranMimran you're very welcome. Thanks for watching! 😊

@@shacarapearce1180 I use a Loretone tumbler (I have the dual barrel version), and my shot is a standard stainless steel jeweler's mix. I have two different blends, one with pins and one without. Be sure to check the description for this video for the link to my free patina process guide. I provide all of the answers to your questions in that guide.

@@DebbiePike77 I've never had a problem with these earrings sliding around. They tend to stay in place pretty easily, but if that's a concern, you can easily add some weight to them by wrapping the front side with beads or by adding some wire weaving to the front as I did in the variations shown in the thumbnail.

@@Door44Studios Great idea, thanks!!

Welcome to Door 44 Studios! There are a lot more of us left-handed artists out there than anyone realizes, and I'm always pleased to hear from another one.

@@adyamski yes, it is copper wire.

@@jillam7039 first of all, are you absolutely sure you're using solid copper and fine silver wire? Fine silver balls up very easily and 18g copper is also quite easy to ball up with a butane torch. So, my first inclination is to question the quality of the wire. Filled and plated wires will not ball up like solid wire. If you are using solid, uncoated wire, the next area to troubleshoot is how much of your wire you're heating up. In order to coax copper into a ball, you need to evenly heat up 1.5" to 2" of the wire shaft. That's why I point the tip of my wire directly into the flame. If you approach the flame from the side instead of head on, it will not heat enough of the wire shaft to reach the melting point. So, make sure that a good inch or more of the wire is getting red hot and hold the wire steady at that point because that's when the ball will begin forming. Finally, if the wire is solid and you're approaching the flame directly for maximum heat exposure, it may be that your torch is not quite up to the task. Not all butane torches are suitable for wirework.

@@Door44Studios I rewatched the video and tried again. It worked! Whoo-hoo! It was definitely my error and I appreciate your patience and help so much. Thanks again for all your expertise and patience!

@@jillam7039 I appreciate you for watching. Thanks!

@@Door44Studios I just sent you a question re: balling copper wire- I hope you can help when you have a moment. T HD anks again!

@@surialbert1591 glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

@@emilyheadey9099 thank you, Emily. I appreciate your feedback and I'll definitely take it under consideration for future videos. 🤗

My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@mariaalma8419 thank you. 🙂

@@susanholladay2946 those are from a little bead shop in my home town called Curly's Beads. Sadly, it's no longer open. But it was a wonderful little bead shop. Support your local bead shops as often as you can. They're vital to our craft!

@@pattyjones5131 you're very welcome. Thanks for watching!

@@strawberrytart3540 it does not, but you do have to be careful. Some soft gemstone beads or glass beads with acrylic coatings will be damaged by either the patina or the tumbler. I always recommend testing with a bead you're willing to sacrifice to be sure it can handle those processes.

@@Greenapple. I don't know... 🤔 A monocle is a pretty cool idea. That definitely scores points for originality!

@@Door44Studios maybe if I combine the heart with a bracelet or smth. I got plenty of ideas

@@inuk360 my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

@@claracampbell9714 It depends on how much jewelry I'm making at any given time. When I was making jewelry for sale, my cleaning solution lasted maybe a week or two because I generally processed 5-10 pieces or pairs of earrings at a time. Now that I make jewelry less frequently (and I only make two or three pieces at a time for each tutorial video), a batch of cleaning solution will often last for months. As a rule, I'll mix a fresh solution when my current batch gets to be about the color that you see in this video.

Thankyou so much Im learning so much fro. you!​@@Door44Studios

@@BeckyCook-g7m my pleasure. Thanks for watching! 🙂