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@@TANGARURANGARIEL I use RockyMountainATVMC when I order all of my parts. I am not finding the seal size, but if you know the year, make, and model they will be able to send you the parts you need. For example, the seal part number for my bike is: 51153-36F00

@@mjrybread Hey I’m pretty sure you are going to have to take the forks off your bike to replace the oil. You’re going to have to take the top cap off to drain the oil. I’m not sure how you would drain the oil without taking them off. Best, Nate

​@@watchnatoI just want to suck out a little oil cuz the forks are way to stiff

@@peteroostveen8315 Hey, are you talking about the xcr air lo fork? Just curious but you shouldn’t have a lockout cartridge if you have an air fork. That’s standard, but maybe I’m incorrect. If it’s an air fork then you have to worry about oil from the fork. Let me know if you have an air fork, or give me your exact fork and I can do some research. Best, Nate

Hey @HippieMTB, I really appreciate the comment, and I definitely need to get back to making videos. Thanks again!

The winner never responded, would you like it? I’ll mail it to you if you’re in the US. We might have to figure something out if you’re out of the US. Best, Nate

Hey @andyhoms2001, I bought it used with those graphics and have no idea where to get them. I would try Rocky Mountain Atv Mc. I get all of my stuff from them. Thanks for watching! Best, Nate

Hey @MaquinasDePalomitas, When was the last time you bleed your brakes? If you haven’t bleed them in a while, I would try that first. And if they are still sluggish, then your piston might be grabbing or need to be cleaned and greased, so you would have to take it out. Let me know what you think. Best, Nate

@@watchnato Hey man, let me just say how grateful I am, the video is super helpful and taking the time to answer just blew my mind. I’ve never bled the brakes, I’ve had the bike since new, 5 years ago. The bleed kit just arrived so I’ll probably do the bleeding first thing in the morning. Thanks again man!!

No problem, I really hope it helps!

Hey @cocas1080, Can you be a little more specific? What part of my video does your part relate too? I can do some research and help out. Thank you for watching. Best, Nate

@@watchnatoit’s a big white plastic tube inside of my main chamber and it has a metal end . It’s like my spring hits it or something… I’m about to take the other fork apart to verify which way it goes.

I can send you pics later what’s your insta ?

@@cocas1080 instagram.com/nate_nestegard?igshid=MmIzYWVlNDQ5Yg==

Thanks Patrick, I appreciate the feedback. Best, Nate

Its those 2 proprietary seals that you need to replace

Hey Odissey013, The Guide T brake is pretty much the same as the Guide R; the change or Mai. Difference between the two went into the lever reach adjustment. I’m not aware of ordering an aluminum replacement piston for them, but the SRAM guides have been known to have issues when they heat up. Best solution or my opinion would be to get different brakes, or pull out the piston, clean it, and apply some SRAM lubricant on it. Please let me know if you have any other questions or if I was of any help. Best, Nate

They all stick, the seals are cheap and swell then disintegrate in the body

never mind it has been discontinued and replaced with the XCR-LO which suntour says will fit but you need to transfer the threaded cap from the old.

Hey Marv, They all come in different sizes, so you need to make sure that you get the right one. Is there a specific fork you are looking for? Best, Nate

Hey Craig, Unfortunately the fork companies are not going to send you a new crown race. The crown race comes from your head set and needs to match the bearings you are running. You’ll need to pull your head set apart if you want/need a new crown race. I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Best, Nate

@@watchnato yeah that’s what I thought, so it’s crown race to match your headset not your forks, the bike isn’t old and I’ve not done many miles on it so I’m sure I can use my old one, if not I’ll just get a spare one incase I need it. Thanks for replying

@@molley17 You are correct, and I’m glad I could help. Good luck with the nee fork! Best, Nate

Hey Alfiedonk1, Describe the little red piece? Is it part of the valve assembly? Also, did you check the cable? There is a little red hose barb at the end of the cable. Best, Nate

did you have any luck? i have the same issue

Some people take the hose off, undo the bleed port and reservoir, then blow compressed air into the hose port on the lever body. I had one set that I had to remove the piston as per this video, then clean and polish the barrel the piston slides in. There was rubber melted and stuck to the walls

"HUGGGHHHH that ain't goin no where" is the torque spec

Hey Eamon Lee, You won the SRAM Guide R Lever body! Please message me privately with a mailing address and I will send that lever to you. Thank you for your comment and for subscribing. Best, Nate

I’ll see what I can do bro!

Hey Damián, It sounds like the rebound knob (red knob with Allen key) is missing? If so, you should be able to contact Sun Tour and they’ll order one. You’ll need to give them the year, make, and model. If that’s not your issue, can you help me understand what’s wrong? Best, Nate

Hey Max, Did you buy a complete kit to service your forks? I’m not sure if you saw in the video, but there are the correct washers on the bottom bolts. What’s happening for you? Thank you for watching and let me know your thoughts. Best, Nate

@@watchnato Yeah I got a complete kit but I don't think there was any extra bolts. What got me confused was the mentions of adding new crush washers in the service manual but I couldn't see any old ones to replace. That was until I realised that one was squeezed thin as a gasket an the other one was well hidden in a grove, just as in the video. It took some blood, sweat & tears to get the old ones out but now the new ones are in place.