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Wow!! Thanks for the kind words! We appreciate your business. If possible could you put this in a Google review?

Thanks for the comments and feedback! Yes, it's VERY sticky. If possible please email us some pictures to the support email at www.BlueTexInsulation.com and if possible give us a Google review with the pics too.

Even interior lights emit UV. Over time it adds up and will cause deterioration.

Yes, you can combine with any type of insulation between the www.BlueTexInsulation.com and the metal. The BlueTex will be the interior vapor barrier.

www.BlueTexInsulation.com Roll Up Door Insulation is not designed to "seal" the door. Its main purpose is to reflect the heat off the door and keep the interior of the building cooler.

@@BlueTexInsulation Nice to see you guys keeping up with comments! Im about to reach out lol

@@BlueTexInsulation yeah and it gets cold in winter , wondering how to seal it for winter ?

@@Muddyfox47broom seal / brush seal install it on both sides

@@Muddyfox47 I put brush seals around my roll up doors and they work great. Can’t see any daylight around the doors now and it does a great job sealing the perimeter with f the doors.

This is a non-conditioned building. So, no additional insulation. Main goal is to reflect heat and control condensation. Maybe run some heat/cooling occasionally if needed. bluetexinsulation.com/pages/insulating-non-conditioned-buildings-vs-conditioned-buildings

2 1/2" Self drilling screws work great to attach wood furring strips to the metal before you install www.BlueTexInsulation.com

You could do that. But not the look most people who install www.BlueTexInsulation.com are looking for on the inside.

It depends whether or not you are heating/cooling the space. Read this: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/insulating-non-conditioned-buildings-vs-conditioned-buildings

How ?. It's an excellent vapor barrier as well as virtually no expansion or contraction. Also.....and that best part as well it prevents conductive heat transfer through the metal studs and joust. A radiant barrier over the foam is even MORE effective... Easier to remove the siding,( it's already measured and cut,) install foam. Hang siding.....was your shop full when you started....mine was...simple .... Most the work has all really been done. 😉

It gets tricky on an existing building. Take a look here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/insulating-conditioned-buildings-hot-mixed-climates-installation

Thanks. This is actually an older video. Now we have 50" and 62" wide product which works better running vertically and all the seams are on the metal framing. Check it out here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-metal-framed-buildings-installation

I just ordered a metal structure from Rhino and would like to get some recommendations on what insulation should I use. It’s for a 40X60 church building.

It really depends on your location and what your goal is as far as comfort/heating/cooling etc. Your best bet is to start with our website and read the "common questions" section. Then call/email us and we can help further. We try to offer great customer service.

Yes, you can use the www.BlueTexInsulation.com to wrap ductwork. It works great. I would actually use the Supreme 6mm product with the foil side facing OUT (to get a radiant barrier) and use FOIL tape to seal the seams. bluetexinsulation.com/products/bluetex-6mm-supreme-50-wide

bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation

You could. But, www.AtticFoil.com housewrap is probably a better choice. We have a lot of home builders use this instead of Tyvek. atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/house-wrap-behind-siding/

For that type of application, I would actually recommend using www.AtticFoil.com with this install method: atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/inside-exterior-walls-hotmixed-climates/

That seems strange. Double check to make sure you are measuring from the exact same spot (edge, center etc) from purlin to purlin. Call us and send pictures we can help. Let's get this right and we can offer other suggestions IF in fact you are on 62.5 centers for installing www.BlueTexInsulation.com

@BlueTexInsulation I'm measuring from purlin to purlin and it's 62.5 from one to the next. I can send pics. I talked with a lady and I've decided to install horizontally. But if you have any other suggestions I'll definitely take them.

Thanks for verifying that the distance from CENTER to CENTER is 60". Therefore, the BlueTex 62" Product is perfect for this application. bluetexinsulation.com/products/bluetex-pro-2mm-super-wide-62-inch

@BlueTexInsulation yes... I'm definitely not a carpenter or someone with knowledge of building structures lol. My 2 sons and myself have been installing the bluetex today. So that goes to show how easy it is to put up. As you say in the videos it's all in your prep. We spent 2 full days doing Nothing but prep work and it's paying off. Can't wait til it's complete then we'll go over it with the sealing tape and ill be ready. Thank you guys for the help. Your customer service truly is the best I've ever encountered with a business.

Awesome. I'm going to send you and email asking for some pictures.

Yes, use an enamel based paint. Not water based. And, for indoor use. This tape is not designed for long term outdoor sun exposure. We have 3", 4" and 6" tape here. bluetexinsulation.com/products/white-tape Call if you need 2".

When you say you are concerned about the heat. Do you mean heat from the Summer or keeping heat in the winter?? I think you mean summer. The foil on www.BlueTexInsulation.com does all the work at reflecting radiant heat. Both products are the same. The main benefit of the Supreme 6mm product is keeping more heat in the winter.

Yes, in fact this is pretty popular application for www.BlueTexInsulation.com either existing buildings here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-wood-framed-buildings-installation or new construction.

Yes, after you install www.BlueTexInsulation.com you can put any type of "interior cladding" against it you want. We have many customers use OSB, drywall, sheetrock or TNG. Be sure to check out the newer videos with the 50" and 62" running vertically on the sidewalls. It's a much easier and better install method.

Typically the moisture is caused from the warm-moist air INSIDE the building coming in contact with the cold metal. When you install www.BlueTexInsulation.com this prevents this air from getting to the colder metal. Under the right conditions you may still get a LITTLE condensation between the BlueTex and the metal panels. But, this is no big deal. The sun combined with airflow between the BlueTex and the metal quickly drys out any moisture. Things get wet and then dry all the time. This is OK. Problems occur when things STAY WET without drying out.

Sorry, we do not have any distributors for www.BlueTexInsulation.com in France.

For the summer, the foil will cause some of the heat to be retained, but LESS heat from the sun. So, think of the building like a parked car. Just opening the windows/doors/venting will make a big difference and you should have no issues after installing www.BlueTexInsulation.com

Normally, you "ventilate" the space between the metal and the www.BlueTexInsulation.com These buildings are usually pretty "leaky" with gaps on the ribs, gap between the wall and the roof and at the ridge.

Kinda behind on wood install videos. If you email us at www.BlueTexInsulation.com we have a bunch of new wood install pictures we can share. Or, call or email if there is a particular question we can help you with.

Would it be more beneficial to install the insulation to the wood purlins before the metal roofing goes up so that it also insulates the purlin ? Or would that interfere with the holding strength of the metal roof to purlin screw connection ? I assume that if a ridge vent is present that you would want to leave it uninsulated ?

It's actually better if you can get the www.BlueTexInsulation.com "outside" the frame. With the ribs on the metal you will still have a ventilated cladding on the roof.

We respectfully disagree. If they were excellent products we could not get calls ever week at www.BlueTexInsulation.com from people who have issue with their bubble foil or metal building insulation falling apart. And from builders who refuse to use the stuff. If you actually watch and listen to the video it specifically states that in mild areas bubble foil does better than extremely hot areas.

Not real high, it's not designed to be "jacket" it's more of an umbrella and a rain coat. (Shade and vapor barrier) R-value info here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation

Thanks for the breakdown. It’s a good article. Have you guys done exterior and interior sheathing with a say 6” air gap?

Don't quite understand the question? Can you elaborate?

Sounds like you were heating/cooling on a very regular basis, so the thicker foam board is a good option. The normal www.BlueTexInsulation.com is really designed for either non-conditioned or semi-conditioned buildings. When, you are looking for moisture control and basic heat reduction from the radiant barrier benefit.

​@@BlueTexInsulation No we do not heat it or cool it regularly build is only heated if we need to be out there for some reason to do something.

All pricing is on the website www.BlueTexInsulation.com Can't be too expensive, we sell a lot of it.

I see other videos and pictures or installs between the studs- is there any disadvantage of doing it this way besides it being more labor intensive or more materials being used?

No advantage unless you want to "see" the framing? Installing www.BlueTexInsulation.com on the internal face of the metal framing creates a more solid internal vapor barrier.

BlueTex radiant barrier looks like a good foundation to begin transforming my metal garage into a climate controlled workshop. It’ll be so nice when I’m done!

www.BlueTexInsulation.com definitely helps. It's really made for buildings that are either non-conditioned or semi-conditioned. Meaning you are never heating/cooling them or maybe heating/cooling occasionally as needed. Think of it as a LIGHT JACKET. For most barns, sheds, garages, airplane hangars, warehouses etc. it's all you need.

When installing www.BlueTexInsulation.com if you want a radiant barrier and vapor barrier, then YES you need an air space between foil and the metal. If you ONLY want a vapor barrier (common in colder areas) you can install the metal direct to the foil without an airspace.

Living in Columbus Ohio. How would I want to install this in the ..roof..walls..ect...Hot summers humidity and cold winters...Looking not to have condensation also.

Sounds like a perfect application for www.BlueTexInsulation.com Did you visit the website and lnstall/applications guide?

Probably not a good idea. HOWEVER, we have had a lot of customers use our www.RoofingFoil.com all in one underlayment as a "spray foam backer" and in fact, we are about to use this product with spray foam on our own 50x60 red iron building to demo the process. Please call our office, we can send you an email with more info/pics from other customers doing this etc. Basically, you are field fabricating Foil Faced PolyIso Board and it's a game changer when you combine foam with a radiant barrier. You can effectively double the r-value when the sun is out by dropping the surface temperature behind the radiant barrier.

We actually have a BETTER system and product specifically for use with spray foam. Please call our office and ask to speak to Ed the owner. I can send you pictures/graphics etc. from other customers already using this system. And, we are about to use it on our own 50'x60' red iron building. This is a new product/process we will be rolling out in 2024.

Can you wrap ductwork with this?

Thanks for the comment. First, I did a search for Deborah Sharp and could not find an order. So, hopefully we "made it right". If not, PLEASE email the support email and we will take care of you. And, I'd like more info please. Was this a standard tubular steel building or something else? Normally the screws work fine. Some older buildings the steel is thicker and can cause the screws to burn out/dull when installing. Also, you don't want to use an impact drill/screw gun. Like I said, please tell us more. As for the tape? UGH. This is frustrating, since there is no way to check on this while they are rolled up. And, during production, the tape sometimes breaks or the rolls run out and sections get missed. We are working with our processor on getting this better. Thanks again for your business and comment!

Great. Please contact us at www.BlueTexInsulation.com if we can help in any way.

Yes, BlueTex PRO 2mm 62" or new 50" wide Here: bluetexinsulation.com/collections/metal-building-insulation-products/products/bluetex-pro-2mm-super-wide-62-inch

This is actually the OLD style 6mm 50" with the tabs. We have eliminated the tabs and moved the double sided tape to the foil side and are only using 3" white tape to seal the seams. It's a cleaner and more secure seam. www.BlueTexInsulation.com

Yes, www.BlueTexInsulation.com would work great in a pergola. We recently had customer use it for this application and spray painted the white side with great results.

any videos on how to secure? We have monsoons here and the wind can be an issue, we have on of those ceder pergolas with the metal roof standard A frame all metal @@BlueTexInsulation

The www.BlueTexInsulation.com is super durable. I think using the screws and washers will work great. We cover and secure a bunch of wood crates with this material and it works great. bluetexinsulation.com/products/screw-washer-set-100-pieces

If the red iron is "behind" the www.BlueTexInsulation.com than it is basically keeping the warm-moist air AWAY from the colder red iron. If this happens, then condensation should not occur after installing BlueTex on the bottom of the purlins. However, condensation on the purlins where the insulation is compressed between the purlin and the roof is VERY common. This is the main cause of staining on this type of insulation system.

Of course if the iron is behind the Bluetex that is true, but in the video the red iron structural framing is exposed. In my area of the country, (Spokane WA or any climate below freezing), if red iron is exposed like this it would be covered with frost and/or condensation and would cause a lot of water dripping in the building. It would cause rusting of the iron and red staining of anything the water touches. You have to get ALL the iron outside of the envelope. That is the only way that system works in a cold environment. I am not criticizing your product. I think it is really well made, but installation is the key. Exposed iron framing like shown here would, in a cold climate, cause some very real headaches. Even in a hot climate, the iron would channel a lot of heat into the building envelope, cancelling out a lot of the value it holds. With the installation you are showing, the only way to make it work is to cover the red iron with Bluetex, or perhaps a spray foam application on any area of exposed red iron. @@BlueTexInsulation

My mistake. I thought the video was for our EasyClip system that installs on the bottom of the purlins. Take a look here and give my your thoughts. If you are doing new construction, contact us. I've got a system that combines a different product with spray foam that fixes all these problems. About to do it on my own new red iron building. bluetexinsulation.com/pages/red-iron-building-insulation-how-to-retrofit-roof-in-existing-red-iron-buildings