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Absolutely is! Looks better, MUCH stronger, and gives more clearance! 😎🚜💨

Heck yeah! It looks great too!! 😎🚜💨

Thank you! Glad you enjoy them! I’m just getting started on this truck! 😎🚜💨

Thanks! That’s my goal is to be able to help folks that are interested in building hotrods to know how and why to build them for whatever their purpose 😎🚜💨

Yes sir! Getting all the HOOK 🪝 😎🚜💨

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Parts are EVERYWHERE 😎🚜😎

It’s on hold now, but when I get the money up to get back on the build, it’s gonna be awesome… I might currently be saving up for some better heads! 😎🚜💨

Heck yeah! Gonna be a blast! 😎🚜💨

Let’s go! 😎🚜💨

Talk to St Paul Speed for a set. He set them up for this truck.

Thanks

Awesome! That’s gonna be a wicked ride! 😎🚜💨

@@AllieCatCustoms Thank you!!!

We all know how rowdy trucks can be! Just wait till we get it hooked up! You gonna enjoy it! 😎🚜💨

It really is a nice truck! This build is gonna be fun! 😎🚜💨

Dang! Man I honestly love the 99-02 era trucks. 03-06 are fine, but the 99-02 are the best of the era to me. Second only to the 73-87 era. I was dumb and sold my 02 RCSB stepside regency sport truck a few years ago, and regretted it ever since.

Hammer down! 😎🚜💨

Glad you enjoyed it! And hope you stick around and enjoy the new stuff I’m doing!

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You are 100% right! We have found that typically it’s easier to use ramps to get on the scales even though you can drive directly onto the scales. It’s amazing how difficult it is to get a race car to climb up on them 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 Once you learn the quirks of scaling a car out, it becomes much easier to do

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@@AllieCatCustoms I ended up needing a case spreader. The left side shim would not go in and the shim driver I had was way too small. The Vevor Case Spreader got the job done. I was working on a M200. All original shims were used except the pinion shim had to be replaced as it was impossible not to damage it upon outter race removal.

Awesome! James is talking about running a solenoid setup on his accumulator when it comes apart for more upgrades. That will make the whole setup nicer!

6an- steel braided.. nope.... complete fail..... the electrical tape is a NO GO. It is to flexible. Answer was SUPERGLUE. then a non stretch tape once dry and then cut with a very fine cut tool with as few mm width as you can muster. . BUT... below 6an.... even this fails... even superglueing the braids.. one layer of stiff tape and superglue that prior to cutting- FAIL city... .. Braids at end of hose still flair ever so tiny amount.. but enough to make it IMPOSSIBLE to install the nut.

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Typo.. GM 7.625

You can use the crush sleeve as a guide for initial setup on the eliminator. I’d error on the side of slightly thicker spacer though. You want to sneak up on the preload vs going to far. I’m actually gearing up right now to make a video on this subject, and hopefully have it posted in the next month or so!

She is doing great! Just been very busy lately. We’ve been trying to work on videos for her, but she’s been so busy with her purse making all it’s been hard

Glad she is doing great. ❤

On the stock ECU, I wouldn’t really call it a “struggle“ but in order to get the most out of a competitive car, I definitely recommend going to an aftermarket ECU like a Holley or a Haltech. Initially, I had the stock 99 computer dyno tuned down in Baton Rouge and it did fine and worked for a while, but I will say, ever since I went to the Holley, it has been night and day in comparison! That Holley provides a ton of good data and is a lot more user-friendly than a system like HP Tuners. I actually tuned the car myself on the Holley. And I’m no expert when it comes to that stuff but was able to get it dialed just from watching some TH-cam videos and doing a bit of reading. With the stock ECU you definitely can get a car down the road and make things work, but if you really want to be competitive, an aftermarket ECU system is definitely the way to go. Once I made the switch to Holley, I was almost mad at myself for waiting as long as I did.

You will definitely feel a bit more resistance with the seal. As long as you are within spec with the seal removed you will be good… if you are using a crush sleeve, you will be setting final preload with the seal installed, so just factor in the slight added resistance the seal will give. Also lubing the seal will help reduce the resistance.

Awesome! Glad to hear you are getting yours back together! I hope you check out my newer videos, as I’m in the middle of rebuilding my truck now! 😎🚜💨

It could honestly be a lot of things. Could be in the brakes, u-joints, even the front end. Your really need to troubleshoot the whole truck to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

It’s possible. Something like a switch with a one way check valve in it so it would bleed pressure one way but not the other. Unfortunately because things came up, we really only had a limited amount of testing done before I finished the video… but we plan to continue testing it to see why the accumulator seemed to prolong the oiling issue. I’ve seen these accumulators work well, and other times not, depending on what the actual oiling problem is in the engine, so I was skeptical from the beginning. It seems that an accumulator really can only be a supplemental oil supply, not a replacement. That LS in the TransAm needs a better oil pan and sump to keep the pickup tube in the oil, THEN, the accumulator can do its job.

I actually have a theory on the oil pressure fluctuating during the pass. When I added the accumulator, I never actually added any oil on top of it as the 6 quart pan was already holding 7 quarts of oil, so I had assumed that the extra quart would have gone into the AN line and into the accumulator. What I think is probably happening is the accumulator IS doing it’s job, but the pan is still having oil climb up the back of the stock pan, which is then putting air into the system, causing the pressure to fluctuate. I have since added another 16 ounces of oil but have not yet taken it to the track to see if it would fix the issue. Regardless… The stock F body pan definitely needs to be upgraded to a more “drag race“ friendly pan.

@@fast73nova Watching the “Moroso” 3qt accumulator video, they show it on with key & no pressure switch. It will be an “Active” oil pressure backup as oil pressure drops, it reacts but only as much as needed. A pressure switch would be on-off-on-off and result in a bouncing gauge reading. They run 15 PSI for best practices as low oil pressure is avoided. Then fills back up as pressure returns from “G-Forces” allow oil back to sump. No air in the system, just solid oil pressure and a decent volume. Retired ASE Master. DK.

Yup! Each way has its pros and cons. Since I’ve had these scales, I’ve started using them with the 2 post lift. Just gotta let the car settle for a bit. But if I was at the track or something where I don’t need to put it on the lift, I’ll drive on them. I like that you can do either way on these scales.

Thanks! Hope it’s helpful! 😎🚜💨

Sasquatch approved 😎🚜💨

I drive a truck locally! I remember the days being over the road… hard days and not much time for hotrods! I hope you enjoy what I’m working on now, it’s gonna be fun! 😎🚜💨

@@AllieCatCustoms right on man , I always look fwd to your videos .

Absolutely! Upgrading the pan will definitely be the best option. As we kinda showed, the accumulator is better in a supporting role, but it can’t fix a major pressure issue

Uhh… the spider gears are very simple to install, and are not related to the subject matter of this video.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Absolutely! Each one will be so much fun to get back on the road! I’m hoping to get the unibody in the shop sometime this fall. Got a couple projects ahead of it!

Absolutely! Any chance I get to wrench or race is a great thing! It’s time to turn that ole wuhan whistler up on that LS and see what the ole car can do! 😎🚜💨

The car is looking good. Good luck to yall. James I’m learning as I go also really enjoy watching the videos can’t wait for c10 to make an appearance 🤙

@@jefferymoreau5533 absolutely! That’s what it’s all about! Getting out there and just making it happen. Hopefully, Michael can get to the C10 in the near future. I think his biggest holdup right now is just getting his bank roll up a bit so he can get back after it. I think most of all people that hot rod can relate.

@@jamesthornton8236 absolutely I have an 84 c10 I have been working on for about 3 years now it definitely takes tons of money and time

@@jefferymoreau5533 I spent 2 years putting my trans am together before it fired off for the first time. It takes time but once they move under their own power, it’s an awesome feeling! Just keep at it, and I have no doubt the end product will be worth the time and money! 💪🏽

Glad I could help! When things slow down, I’ll probably do more videos on scaling a car out and all that, and show more about the scales. They are good, with good features, especially for the price!

Thanks! 😎🚜💨

Let’s do it! 😎🚜💨

It really was surprising how heavy that car was! Street car! 😎🚜💨

Nice! This truck is actually a 62. It woulda had some sort of FE engine in it too. They are cool trucks for sure!

Oh yeah! It would definitely turn heads everywhere it went too!

Hahaha, more projects than time?

Let’s go! 😎🚜💨