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Yes you can attach a long pipe to the front of the trailer with a pulley on top and use the boat winch to raise the mast. Did it with a friends boat. The idea with this method is that you can easily raise and lower the mast with one person while under way.

You have to have the engine running to check the fluid level.

Glad you think so!

Yes. We have many small lakes perfect for small sailboats. I sail Lake Pleasant October-June. Too hot in the summer.

Watch my latest video. It’s an even better system you can build yourself

My big sailboat is a 97 Bayliner Buccaneer 26. The smaller one is a 74 Ensenada 20

Ha I had an Ensenada 20 during 1985 until 1994 it was even the same color. I didn’t appreciate that boat enough but I didn’t trailer it because it was always at a dock. We had a lot of fun and it sailed very well. This isn’t a boat for the foul weather we had on Lake Erie but we also enjoyed plenty of great weather. Raising the mast was a two person job I would lift the mast in its pivot and the crew would fasten the fore stay. I did rig the jib halyard so once I’d lift it high enough I’d cleat the halyard then reposition myself on the canon top to lift it the rest of the way. I also made stair steps to climb from the cockpit sole to the cabin top while lifting the last. It wasn’t easy.

I watched your video. Nice system, better than a single gin pole. I wanted something a little easier for us “old folks”

Absolutely with the right materials. I’m going to do this to my Bayliner Buccaneer which has a longer mast. Probably use 1 1/2” conduit.

@@JohnVH-diy Thats great! What are the specs on that boat please?

@@TheAaronAndSharaIt’s a 1974 Ensenada 20

@JohnVH-diy ok awesome thank you so much

I would have to see pictures of it to better understand

No patent, too much $. If you can get your boat to me I can build one out of stainless

Yes, I just picked up this boat and haven’t got it cleaned up properly but I hope to get it sailing soon and I’ll make a video on the water. This would be great for those that have to go under low bridges. You could also leave the boom and main sail attached.

The older I get the slower I want to go. I like the peace and quiet of wind and waves. Try it, you might get hooked like I did.

I’m making a crutch for the mast on the stern rail to keep it off the pop top.

It’s a real barn find. Wood interior is excellent. It’s a ‘74 Ensenada 20’. Just built a cool mast raising system for it. Put it on TH-cam today. Subscribe and you’ll see the progress.

Lowering is opposite to raising. I use the jib halyard and secure it to the bow pulpit. That takes the mast tension off the forestay so it can be loosened and attach the vang. I have a new system I’m building that uses two A frames. Subscribe so you don’t miss it.

@@JohnVH-diy Understood.Thank you John! Subscribing!

I agree. Sold the boat. Bought two others. Fabricating a totally new A frame system that remains on board.

I’m designing a double A frame that eliminates the gin pole and makes it safer and easier. Subscribe please and you’ll be notified.

Block foundations are always constructed after the home is set up. Most mobilehome companies can build it for you. Block foundations are nice because you can then push dirt up to the foundation then depending on your land slopes you can add a patio or walkways like I did. The difference between the typical block foundation and mine is that the footings are much larger and actually support the perimeter of the home. The blocks are filled with concrete and the walls and floor are permanently attached to the block. Most companies will not do what I did unless you pay a lot of money. That’s why I did it myself.

I rented an industrial compressor similar to the ones they use to run a jack hammer for road construction.

Yes you don’t need to lay block. You can use all sorts of materials. Wood, vinyl, stone. But If you want to attach an addition to your home you need to make sure it can never settle or be moved in any way. That’s why I made it a permanent foundation just like a site built home. I attached a 10x 20 room and a 26x 45 ft garage. All inspected and permitted.

That’s where you’re wrong. The perimeter of the house sits directly on the block. The block rests on a traditional footing just like a site built house. Lag bolts are screwed up into the floor joists protruding down into the block. Cement is pumped into the block cavities creating a solid wall. Under the house are also concrete footings supporting each stand. The 24”x24” footings are 18” deep resting on undisturbed soil just like the perimeter footings. The house is deemed permanent by a HUD certified inspector and by our county building inspector. Since it is permanent and can’t ever be moved or adjusted, I was given permits to add additions to the house.

I live in Arizona. Nothing rusts here unless it sits in water.

hoosiertrailer@gmail.com. Contact Ben Gulley at this email and he’ll help you. Can’t remember what it cost.

Yea. I was thinking about it.

Not sure what you mean about saving time or money. Maybe explain. Yes it was a lot of work and it cost a lot of money, but I was then able to legally attach an addition to mymobile home with permits.

Thanks. I am working on a easy one man mast raising system so like and subscribe

Boom vang. The pulley system that pulls down on the boom. It’s already on the boat so I use it to pull up the mast.