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Thank you very much. It was actually two years though... I had a lot of trials and errors until I was able to have a solid base to work with. I am preparing more units soon, some molds need to be redone. The stand alone versions of the interiors did not go that well with only one purchase, probably due the fact that the full set is more appealing, but this is something I am going to have to take a look into if I want to make more interiors in the future. In the meantime, the B747 cargo project will come first.

Yes, I like to remove a bit the texture that is left after a coat, making sure that the surface is smooth, but not gloss smooth as the following coat must adhere to it. Keeping thin and smooth coats allow for a better finish also in terms of gloss. I always used to make the mistake of applying too much clear coat and giving the model a more die-cast type of finish, so hopefully for this one I can keep the coats thin and have a better realistic result, but I am not good at painting so we'll see...

@@rocastmodels I learned one thing from painting a few train shells for a friend. It's the scale gloss that is important. An HO train won't look like a showcar even if it's meant to be new in HO scale. The real one will have a very glossy finish but once it's scaled down that gets lesser. I would mix gloss clear with satin or dull clear. I'm no master at painting either.

@@crushingvanessa3277 That exactly! Indeed the gloss should also be scaled according to the scale of the model, that is a very nice tip! Thanks for the comment!!

Hi Kevin, thanks for the comment. Keep in mind this fuselage is not Revell's nor Zvezda. The whole fuselage is my resin cast with the redesigned wingroot body fairing, new rain gutters, improved nose cone, apu cone with the fluid diffuser and position lights as well as door openings with the frame detail. The tail is inherited from the plastic kit (in this case Revell) and attached onto my fuselage. This operation is not required if using the stand alone version aft galley.

@@rocastmodels ah, I understand now. Thanks!

Thank you very much David!

Thanks a lot for the comment! I hope to keep progressing with this project during the weekends and provide another update soon!

Yes

Thank you!

In this case, the parts are meant to remain like this, simply primed. However, if I had to build it, everything would be painted separately and I would use the sponge (also included) like I show in this video th-cam.com/video/AuC0t0TnBq8/w-d-xo.html in minute 3:22 As far as painting the doors in case the livery has a line or design going on top of it, I would place the door on top of the fuselage and mark or even masktape the design and then paint the door separately. Thanks for the comment!

Спасибо!

Спасибо за комментарий!

Thank you!! I am currently recording part 7

I've watched all the previous chapters, I really like these challenges, I'm waiting for session 7, congratulations on the beautiful project.

Merci beaucoup Pascal!

I hope to make the 777 in the future, I may do the cargo version first. But the next one to be released will be the 747-8F full interior, and then the -400F version as well :)

Thanks a lot Jean Michel! Crazy thing is, initially I made several instructions per different kit options, I ended up with so many variations of the instructions that I finally decided it was best to make only one and let the modeler jump steps if a galley or cargo hold was not purchased. I am using a new paper type which is smoother and whiter, definitely making those instructions and illustrations is something I also enjoy very much doing!

Thanks for the comment!! I hope to make some cargo elements taking the chance of this 747 project. I planned to use optic fiber to add the lights inside (and LED for ambient), I can't wait to continue with this project, fortunately it won't take as long as this 787 since everything is already designed, the only remaining part to test is the fuselage, so I hope to share more updates once there is progress again

@@rocastmodels no worries, my project is waiting for your kits. a nice diorama when loaded will be made with all the elements you make.

Thanks so much for commenting, Alan! This set will also have the option for the -9 extensions. There are also dedicated cargo holds for the -9, while I made them the same length as the -8 (one can't really tell the length looking from outside), I redesigned the outside to fit them in the new position in the fuselage. The exterior of the -8 cargo holds has the same shape as the wingroot and that caused a problem with the position of the -9 so rounded exterior holds were made for the -9. The product page will have several check boxes to select the options for this set. I also plan to do a -10 extension, due the new positioning, I also think I may need to redesign the aft hold, but there is definitely a -10 version coming sometime after this release. If all goes well I expect to release this set (as well as the stand alone versions) at the end of the month, nearly all the fuselages are done for this first batch, so I will also be working on the shop with the new menu and the product pages.

Gracias Gustavo! Ha sido un largo proyecto pero al fin pude presentar todo el contenido, espero poder terminar mi proyecto con el 787-9 pronto!

Thank you! I hope to release it soon, if all goes well it should be by the end of this month

Thanks so much for the kind comment!

Thank you for the comment! I hope so, but I may do it the way I will release the stand alone versions of this 787, that means, having only the fuselage section for the specific door, this allows me to add in that particular section, not only the door opening with the detailed frame, but some supports and aligment points to add the floor and for it to be level at both doors from each side, that was one of my struggles with the previous version of this set as I could not have any references with the original fuselages and a way for the modeler to put the floor 100% aligned. In this case I went further as I felt that I could improve some aspects of the original kit's fuselage. It has been a lot of learning with this set, it is also my first fuselage and I already think on transferring the experience to the 747-8F, which is going to be the next project. The 747-8F is already designed and most parts were already test printed, only the fuselage remains to be printed and I would like this time to cast it in one piece, though that will also mean to have some other aspects in mind as well so I may do two sections instead of 3 like in this 787. In this case, the 747-8F will be full open, with cargo holds and main deck as well as the cockpit/upper deck, after that, the -400F version will be made and most probably a BDSF as well, since some parts of the -400F will be used to transform the 8i and 8F kits into the -400/-400F.

@@rocastmodelsThat will be a big one. Well the 787 is big to. It is nice not to start from scratch after all this work with the technology we have today. I'm still learning it slowly.

Thanks for commenting! :)

Thanks so much for the comment! I made them myself, I hope to release those items soon. You can find more content at my IG page and Facebook instagram.com/rocastmodels facebook.com/RocastModels

I use a type of polyester putty which has a fine texture, it is the one commonly used in car body repair workshops, it comes with its hardener, it dries hard and relatively quick, works very nicely!

@@rocastmodels can you name the product? Bondo? I was trying to find a clear drying putty but didn’t find anything like what you used

@@DRSchmid I used Plainsur on this one, but I also used a lot of Presto in the past (the fine type, I think they have another one with mineral fillers). The brand depends on where you live at, I think that you may find brands like 3M which have products around the world and some manufacturers that only produce nation-wide. The important is that it must have a fine texture, which mostly do because generally they are used for body repair work. The putty I used was not clear (transparent) it has a grey color, I used it to fill around the edges of the windows and although the putty required sanding (and thus sanding over the windows) the clear plastic can always be restored as it is transparent by nature, so as long as it doesn't have huge scratches, applying subsequent sandings with finer grit each time and polishing compounds will leave the window 100% transparent. There are products like the "gauzy agent glass coat" from AK that restores the transparent parts, frequently used for aicraft canopies dipping the part in the product, I think this is similar as to what I read that "Future/ Pledge" do (or did, I am not sure is still available).

Indeed, I am not sure that is the best way to do it, but it worked which is the important :D

@@rocastmodelsGood because I was going to try that.

Thanks a lot Jean Michel! Can't wait to finally finish it!

Gracias Gustavo!

Thanks for the comment! Anytime! 👍

Thanks for the comment! I am glad you like it!

Thank you for the comment!

Thank you so much! I am really looking forward continuing on with the 747-8F!

Thanks so much!!

Thanks for the comment Jean Michel! They are very small, one needs to have some patience working with it :D

sure ... !! @@rocastmodels 🙂

Thanks so much!!

I am using cyanoacrylate glue applied in small quantities using a very thin drillbit while blowing away the vapours to avoid the possible whitening of the plastic, I also protect the parts with tape when I see they may get stained by the glue

This music sound like crocodile Dundee movie. Nice work though.

@@jamesoutland6706 Thank you very much!