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@@PnoyAirman22 unfortunately you’re only options are probably be to either try and use some JB weld and epoxy it back on or you’re goning have to get a hold of intake. I would check junkyards before I buy a new one.

@@justinanderson181 which year 200? I’ve done control arms on mine and I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 C.

@ it is a 2011

@ I’ll look up some information and see what I can find but I haven’t done it on that chassis unfortunately. Buy I’m always will to try and help.

@@copenhagenblue8417 I was able to get the bolt out tonight but I’m going to wait to reinstall the control arm until tomorrow. I was able to jack up the transmission from the differential to get it out. How many inches up do you think I could jack up the transmission before I cause damage? That’s the main thing I’m afraid of when reinstalling the bolt

@ sorry I just saw the comment. Honestly I just kept jacking it up slowly till I just had the clearance. It was not a comfortable situation! I really hate jacking on aluminum. If anything you can unbolt the front mount easily, the rear one isn’t as easy.

Well I hope that it goes smoothly! Just take your time and it will be all good. Thanks for watching 🙂

@ thanks man your video really makes it look simple. Have a merry Christmas and a happy new year

@ same you you! Have a very merry Christmas and a happy new year!

@ took a minute but got it done and she’s running good only thing the parts store told me 6 qts of fluid and that was way too much

@ glad you got it done ✅ thankfully you just go till it spills out :-)

Well that can definitely scare the crap out of you when going down the highway! I hate front end noise and while I haven't put those components on an ION specifically, but the front ends are pretty much all the same. You certainly could have a bad upper strut mount. But you could also have a bad sway bar link or ball joint. I would have a mechanic take a look at it if you can because you run into a safety issue. Thanks for watching though and I hope you can figure out your front end noise. Good luck

@@jasonwood5988 it wasn’t the radiator fan that gave me trouble, it was the upper radiator hose that we got in the way. I tried taking out of the top when I did my wife’s journey, and I found it to be more difficult than going out of the bottom. I guess however you can get it done works! Thanks for watching

@@charlesheinle9908 you’ve got a deal!

@@zalanocsko154 you don’t have to, I was able to use a long prybar and really push down hard on the control arm to give myself access. But the passenger side is definitely harder to do than the driver side. Not sure what’s different about it, it might be length of the half shaft or something.

@@J-RodRodriguez thanks for watching, glad I could help!

Ha ha ha!

@@danielotis2075 glad I could help! Let me know how it turns out. 👍🏼

Turned out great! Putting the new belt on was a 20 minute struggle but back together in one piece haha! Thank you!!

@@danielotis2075 yeah the fight with a serpentine belt can be a rough one! But, I'm glad it went well for you and the job is complete. Good Job!

Oh yeah she is always willing to help out and learn!

Oh yeah it was rough. What surprises me is that it didn't really make a lot of noise leading up to the day it failed. But the van does sit a LOT!. Thanks for watching!

@@BrandonMcIvor can’t say I’ve ever really banked on AC Delco, although I know the quality is good. NGK iridium’s and platinum have never let me down though.

@@stoveguy2133 I would have loved a 10 minute starter job. lol. Next time the VUE is going to have an accident if it needs a starter. 😆 thanks for watching

I just did mine today. $40 for new starter on FB. It’s clean. And vue starts.

When I inspected it, the belt appeared to be in good shape. Probably would have been more proactive to get it taken care of while I was there, but my main concern was the water pump. Definitely will suck to take it apart again if that belt requires replacement.

There's not an over abundance of stuff in the way, but certainly not staring you in the face. Just take your time and it goes smoothly. Make sure you look up torque specs and clean the surfaces well, you'll be fine. Thanks for watching!

So much better than Ford's old 3.5.

I'll have to try that next time. I swear I tried a e& but maybe there was just junk in the head of the bolt. Thanks for watching!

I'm really sorry that the video has the incorrect torque spec. I did double check it and I must have fat fingered the keys. I went back and blurred out the torque spec, it should take a few hours to update. Thanks for watching and letting me know!

@copenhagenblue8417 Thanks for the quick reply. I ended up getting lucky. Once I pulled off the water pump, the nubs were sticking out and I was able to back them out with just my fingers. No tool needed! Again awesome video except for the torque. Ford seems to enjoy hiding those torque settings.

@@richardhill2379 not tired of you yet at all. lol. I’ve been down the same path you have. It’s really annoying when you can’t find a simple clunk sound and everything seems to be OK or replaced. Very frustrating. I hope you can get it figured out so I can fix mine lol

There is going to be considerable tension on the sway bar and I don't think you can do it while it is on the ground. Also getting the nuts off can be hard, so you need space, possibly heat, and a pair of vise grips. I wish I had better news, but thankfully as long as they aren't broken, it might be worth waiting to have a shop do it.

@@copenhagenblue8417 I took your advise, shop did it for me, the drivers side that attached the sway bar had some notable wear but it didn't make any difference, still clunking.

@@richardhill2379 well I’m glad you got it done, I’m sorry that it didn’t help out the sound, but if anything it should give you a little better stability which makes you safer.

@@copenhagenblue8417 The sound my friend was the transmission motor mount and was affecting ONLY the driver side assembly. Crazy right. I had my motor mounts done at a local repair facility and my car was not doing very well with the shaking, clunking so I took it back to them and it turned one of the mounts they replaced was a bad one so now it's all quiet on the western front

@@richardhill2379 that’s great news! Very happy to hear you’re all fixed up.

@@CBD-LIFE i’m assuming that the rubberized stuff was supposed to give it a “Richard “field but obviously just like the plastics. It did not hold up very well overtime. I didn’t think of the magic sponges, that’s a good idea. Thanks for watching.

@@marcovelazquez5357 you’re very welcome. Glad it helped. Thanks for watching 👍🏼

I would assume that the latching mechanism is similar, they didn't really change too much from one generation to the next. But there was a life cycle change in 2011, so I would bet you have more interior parts to remove to accomplish the task. Thanks for watching

@@kevinj6874 yeah if the drains ever clog up again, I’ll try and go from the bottom and clear them out. Definitely don’t wanna drop the headliner again. But there’s no way to get to the back drains very easily from inside the sunroof cassette. 28 hours?! At this point I might scrap the car! lol. Air bag light just came on yesterday on the big 😡

@@copenhagenblue8417 air bag goes though a ring ( don’t know what it is called) just under the air bag made a screwdriver bent at a 90 degree angle to get the air bag off. That is probably the problem had to put in a used junkyard one in my daughter’s bug.

@@kevinj6874 I scanned it and there was a fault for the occupancy detection mat. which I cleared and I'll see if it comes back. I was worried it would be the slip ring, which is the part you described. I wouldn't want to replace that either. LOL

Yeah, i didn't expect it to fail so early honestly, but the van has been used for a LOT of city driving, so I guess I can't really complain. Thanks for watching!

@@richardhill2379 thanks for washing, if you usually find out, you have a bad motor amount with excessive movement of the motor when shifting gears. You might also notice that your acceleration on the vehicle from a standstill diminished. That’s because the motor is excessively moving before it’s allowing it to put the torque to the wheels. A good visual inspection also helps, if you see any cracking or tearing of the rubber material, it needs to be replaced. There are traditionally four motor mounts on a vehicle. Two for the engine and two for the transmission.

@@copenhagenblue8417 Thank you for the wisdom on this, I greatly appreciate it., When driving I hear alot of clunking noise, sounds bad. Hopefully the clunking will go away with the control arm replacement..

@@richardhill2379 Control arms are usually a good place to start, but it could also be ball joints, swaybar links, or upper strut mounts. I’ve gone through and replaced everything and I still have a clunk, it drives me nuts.

@@copenhagenblue8417 Could it be maybe the bushings on the swaybar, I had my tie rods replaced awhile back and the mechanic told me the bushings were worn, they replaced em and the wierd knocking disappeared. I will follow your suggestion on the control arms for sure, you kinow your stuff. I will keep you up to date but I have a situation I got to jump on first in the morning. I opened my hood and there is a puddle of oil on my transmission housing. I drive a dodge journey 2.4 liter 2015. so I got to figure out how that oil got there.

@@richardhill2379 I was thinking that mine was the tie rod ends, but I can't feel any play. So if I replace them, then I have to get an alignment which is not cheap. But I have actually replaced the bushings on the sway bar, once with the wrong size and it did make it better once I installed the correct size. On the top of the transmission there are two cooler lines that have o-rings on them, one could be leaking. There isn't too much else up there that can cause it. If you watch the video I just posted about replacing the transmission high/low pressure solenoid, you will see the lines.. might be worth checking out. But good luck!

@@BaldwinFanonGarveyTureShakurX glad that I could help out. lol Thanks for watching.

I would love to go urban exploring! But I worry about the condition of some of these places. This would have been a cool one to see. But I am glad I got to see if now brought back to its former glory

You're very welcome, hope it helps!

@@theoassaly3092 high idle would make me think that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. But once you take care of the idle, definitely a transmission fluid changes in order. If anything check the level. But it could also be your valve body, which isn’t too hard to replace, but the part can be kind of pricey.

Only thing I can think of is that it is overfilled? Have you ever had it serviced previously?

@@copenhagenblue8417 not under my ownership no but the previous owner probably did. I know this van did sit through some high waters in Florida. It was just parked the whole time but perhaps water can get in through a vent? But I don't see how it could have made the last 20,000 miles with water in it

I think I figured it out... I should have checked it warm after a mile or two of driving. Instead this van's been parked for a few days and was stone cold. Thanks for the quick reply

@@MindsEyeVisualGuitarMethods Glad you figured it out. I was going to comment back that you need to make sure you have the transmission warmed up, on level ground, and you've shifted though all the gears a few times. Good luck though and thanks for watching!

@@MindsEyeVisualGuitarMethods The only way water could get in, is if it was able to get through a breather tube. The bolt for checking/adding fluid is sealed and wouldn't be effected by water. You should be good! 🙂

Thank you! You're very welcome, hope it helped

@@comingoutonyou I honestly don’t remember. But I want to say it was a T47 or T40

@@PwNn00bzFTW thank you very much, it never feels as good as it turns out when filming lol. Hope it helped you! Thanks for watching

@@Zacchaeus58 yeah, if I was doing it in the future and I had some help. That is definitely a way to go. Thanks for watching!

You can't just pull it up can you gotta take the fan off to do that right

@@donnieyates9688 I just actually had to do an alternator on my wife’s journey, pretty much the same as the minivan. I was able to remove the upper radiator hose this time and sneak the alternator out. Very tight, but it worked.

@@billm6294 I’m glad the video helped you, I’m also glad that your Saturn is cruising along nicely. They definitely put thick paint on those camlock, it would be my one complaint as well. I think it makes it harder to get everything to line up. Thanks for watching!

@@dustincercado those are MOOG sway bar links. Part number K750382, they carry a lifetime warranty through rock auto. Currently, they’re $19.41 each. Thanks for watching.

@@copenhagenblue8417 thank you and thanks for sharing the video.

@@joerichardcycles69 thank you! I appreciate not only watching, but the compliment.