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Thanks. I apologize you don't find my sultry baritone sexy.

I would seriously doubt that. The Geisler takes a gen 3 19 slide and barrel. Also, the 19 and 17 didn't feature the same locking lugs until several generations later. By then the nose section that holds the recoil spring on the slide was enlarged and thus wouldn't fit into a frame designed for gen 3 parts.

I run a 17 slide works great

@@MABABYNATE09 I'll believe it when I see it. Post a video or over on the P80 reddit sub or something. Until then, I'm calling BS.

Thank you! But can I ask you a question? How did you get to this video? I have not published this yet Ha!

@ I have been searching videos about building 1911 from parts, and found yours. Your last video of this series is viewable on your channel. I am thinking to build one for myself: government, 45 ACP, bull barrel, pic rails, no MIM parts. Your videos are very helpful and encouraging! You have build a custom 1911, I think it’s totally worth your time and money!

@@6793student I'm glad they're helpful to you. Don't forget to check out the exclusive free content over on my Odysee channel too. I'm sure you'll find that even more helpful. I just think it's funny that TH-cam is putting my unpublished video into search results. Thanks TH-cam! Ha!

Let me answer this way. Go watch 0:56-1:01 of this video or mine Ha! th-cam.com/video/E0vwaukgMog/w-d-xo.html Also, don't forget to check out my Odysee channel of the same name for exclusive content on this subject not available elsewhere.

Wow! I love this level of interaction and thanks for putting the time in to be so thoughtful in your response. I'll start by saying I can't find much to disagree with here. Yes, this platform is quite the nuanced one and there are always more places to look at to gain efficiencies and changes. I'm sure as I build more of these, eyeing a 2011 one day too, I'll try and dive deeper into more areas. I really like your distinction of cleanliness of trigger feel and weight being two variables that can both influence one's impression of a trigger. Or said another way, weight isn't the only thing that matters! Hearing you talk about this I wish I had addressed it in the video Ha! Lastly, I want to talk more about the polishing. My intention wasn't to say it makes no effort, and if my memory serves it did actually reduce pull weight by like half a pound anyways. My main takeaway from doing this for the first time was that it didn't impact this system nearly as much as I have seen it do on striker fired trigger systems. It's not unheard of for me to remove several pounds of weight on a Glock from polishing alone. Is this difference due to the system's design or due to the parts I used here already being pretty dang high quality and polished? Don't know. But I did find it very interesting.

@NotaGuntuber I love the 1911, and actually it's a fairly robust system. Having worked on my buddies late 70s Hi-Power I realized that my CZ 75 SP-01 is kind of similar. So I built one of those out an Cajun-ized a CZ 75 and I decided that it's an evolved Hi-Power and everything John Browning would have wanted his Hi-Power to be. The weak point of those designs is the trigger return spring. For a 1911/2011 it's the internal extractor. Part of that I believe is most extractors are made from some sort of tool steel instead of spring steel. Like EGW just says their HD extractor is tool steel and the Wilson Combat Bulletproof XS extractor says it's made from S7 tool steel, S7 is good stuff but for both of those I've got to re-tune them when they get close to 1000 rounds. There's Aftec and they use actual springs and cost twice as much. Cylinder and Slide makes one from spring steel and cost more than half as much but good luck getting one. C&S is always out and only makes em for 45acp, lame shit. All that said a lot of hammer fired guns use a trigger return spring and the 1911 system is way tougher of a design. As big of a pain in the ass as it is it's still my favorite and the one if anything went wrong I could diagnose and fix the quickest. I wish Dan Wesson would have done their DWX with internal rails like a 75 but a bull barrel like a modern 2011. They almost got it right. The grip on a CZ 75 feels way better to grip than any 1911 or 2011 I've shot and the completely Cajun-ized 75 SP-01 I have I shoot slightly better because of it. Only slightly better though, 75-100 yard shots with irons are a little easier for me. I could nerd out on 1911/2011s all day. I've got a Remington R1 Tactical Double Stack in 45 and a Springfield Prodigy. I love working on them and I never thought working on guns would be something I'd be into but I love it and someday want to do it for a living

@@tatteredhope911 great, now you have me wanting to mess with Hi-Powers and CZ75s! Ha. Also, didn't I see that Wilson combat actually has 1911 models with a long extractor mounted externally, sort of like some Sigs have?

@NotaGuntuber oh yeah Wilson Combat has guns with external extractors. I know that some of their double stack 1911s and I want to say that they make a single stack that uses an external extractor. Oh yeah I love hammer fired guns. Internally the Hi-Power and CZ 75 look related. They both have barrels with 1911 locking lugs and look similar, the sear is shaped similar and where the hammer hooks engage the sear is a similar angle, they use trigger return springs. The Hi-Power has this teeter totter looking flat piece of steel in the slide that disengages the sear via the hinged trigger where as the CZ has a trigger bow that interacts with the sear cage and the hammer strut has a disconnector on it that interacts with the trigger bow making it double/single action and you can actually take the disco off of the CZ 75 and make it single action only. So that's kind of cool. Whoever designed the CZ 75 was definitely a fan of the 1911 and the Browning Hi-Power. Someday I'd like to build out a Hi-Power, Springfield makes one but Girsan makes one with a rail on it and that's probably the one I'd get. Cylinder and Slide and B&H Spring Solutions make a bunch of parts for the Hi-Power. The whole ignition system is use C&S parts but B&H makes some stuff like an extended slide stop and barrel I'd use, hmm I wonder who makes a barrel bushing for a Hi-Power that can be gunsmith fit? Cajun Gun Works makes one for the CZ 75 and it made a big difference in accuracy and barrel lock up. Most of what I used was Cajun Gun Works but Armory Craft makes a better trigger, well I think it's better. It's a little more flat and the face of the Armory Craft trigger is serrated and cost the same as the Cajun one. I totally see why competition shooters use those CZ 75s, I did their whole pro package and upgraded a few other parts and it was a little more than 400 bucks for everything but if you like the stock trigger on it and don't want to switch out the hammer, sear, and disconnector for less than 50 bucks ya can get a spring upgrade and get like 80% of the trigger of the completely pimped out package from MCarbo. Just some things to think about if ya were going to get into CZs. To get a badass trigger and solid set up they don't cost as much as. I'd definitely get the MCarbo package even if it was just to switch out the crappy roll pins that CZ puts in their guns, Cajun Gun Works sends out pin upgrades to address that problem too and sells the pin replacements individually too. even if you were going to just keep the gun stock I'd get the firing pin and trigger pin upgrade so that your gun will last and not fail on you, it's 20 bucks but so worth it. I don't know why CZ makes an awesome gun with crap roll pins in it. But they do

I've personally never had a bottle go bad. I used some the other day that was over 2 years old. I am religious about fridge storage.

The barrel video is in the end stages of editing and I hope to have it live by end of year. But yes, there are several additional episodes on this project that are live. I suggest also following me on Odysee for some exclusive content.

Grainger sells Red Garnet. Most states there's one local. So it is multitudes cheaper to go that route than finding aluminum oxide online and shipping that heavy item. Numerous professional Cerakoters recommend it and I think Cerakote has even come out and said that that works fine. I've had no adhesion issues or anything, myself.

Sick! What are you spraying? For some reason TH-cam doesn't recommend my other Cerakote videos like it does this one. So don't forget I have videos on multicolor camo work and a unique take on battle worn finishes!

Absolutely you can! There is obviously no leaf spring to play with on a Glock. But as I hinted to in the video, polishing trigger system surfaces has gotten me fantastic results on Glocks! If you do the same polishing steps as shown here, just on every metal surface you can find on the Glock trigger bar, disconnector, striker, basically anything metal in the trigger system, you can expect a result somewhere in the 3.5-4lb range. That’s why I was so surprised when polish didn’t make a huge difference on this 1911!

Superior Triggers has them in several colors. Note to the TH-cam overlords, Superior Triggers doesn't sell any prohibited items so I'm allowed to point to them on here.

Appreciate it brother. Don't forget to check out my Odysee channel for even more in depth work.

@ i 💯% will👍

They are actually available now, made from aluminum. Check out Superior Triggers' site. And yes, for any TH-cam person reading this comment I am allowed to point there because he doesn't sell any items TH-cam hates.

While my gut is to shy away from applying Cerakote any way besides spraying, since it loses its durability if applied too thick, I have to admit I know nothing about the MC series that 5100 is part of. So who knows?

I warned you that if you waited too long on what details you wanted, you'd miss the batch!

I don't have any Glock backstops so hard for me to answer. That said, I would be extremely extremely surprised if they did.

I actually address your commentary on the H series vs elite series in the finale video for this build. Without giving away the whole story, I agree with you that for high precision fit parts H series can make things more difficult than necessary. I have been pretty lucky and have had very, very few failures in my cerakote, so it is hard for me to comment on when or why it fails. But some of the most common things I've heard of are contamination and insufficient blast profile. I see a lot of people just waving the sandblast nozzle across a surface and calling that a day. I can only imagine the insufficient surface, and therefore inconsistent results, they're getting. So sometimes following the application steps isn't enough if the nuances of why each step matters isn't fully grasped. Not saying whoever you're referring to having issues doesn't grasp the nuances, just saying what I've seen.

@@NotaGuntuber Cool. I'll keep an eye out. Love the 1911 and plan to do my own build as soon as I'm able. I personally like doing custom fitting and the 1911 is probably the king when it comes to custom precision fitting in the 80% world. The SIG P22X's have some rail fitting too... but nothing compared to the 1911 when you compare everything else. Appreciate the videos. Will definitely check them all out.

I don't necessarily disagree with you. I'm a Glock fanboy myself. I think 1911s are cool, but the capacity is a huge turnoff for me in any usage besides a fun range toy. I am a big fan of understanding how things work, the evolution of firearms over time, and all that. So it's inconceivable to me to never build a 1911 if my ultimate goal is to be a gun maker and designer myself.

At time time this was filmed I was running an old 4gal 1.1HP 135PSI dual tank compressor. Look up a concept called duty cycles and you'll quickly understand how hard I was being on this thing. That eventually led to its demise. cracked a reed in the compressor in half! I made a new one, fixed it, but little things kept going out after that so I gave up and got something bigger. These small compressors will work if you plan to just do a project here and there. If you get into it and start spraying everything you own like I did, you will quickly out grow it.

I have bad news for you. No. There are two major things that you have to contend with here. First is the odd diameter of the barrel nut. This may be the thinnest walled barrel nut I've ever encountered. It's why they won't warranty it once removed! There is literally only an extra 0.030" of thickness between the threads and the outside! Mine failed when reinstalled at only 34 ft/lbs of torque! Secondly, even if you find a different aftermarket nut in this crazy size, you still have to worry about the circular slots cut into the nut further towards the muzzle, which allow the two cross bolts that hold on the handguard, to pass through. I'm currently resigned to trying to make my own replacement out of either stronger 7075 aluminum or steel to try and get one that won't die on me when torqued more than once!

Ah ok i see thanks for replying

What about modifying the hand guard

@FatLootGoingDeep as you saw in the second half of this video there is no issue with modifying the length up to the point you would hit the charging handle. As for modifying the handguard to take a different barrel nut, no. Like any extruded aluminum handguard, there's under an 1/8" of thickness. Could you use a CNC or lathe to perhaps pull off 0.020" in a circular pattern on the inside of the handguard? Yeah. Would that make the barrel nut thicker walled and stronger? Also yeah. Worth the effort for just an extra 0.020" around the nut? I don't think so. That's why my plan was just to try and make a new one in a stronger material instead. Or bite the financial loss and buy a new one direct from them. As you'll see in later episodes, I'm not super happy with this upper's engineering. In no small part due to this barrel nut! So I'm currently quite against sinking more money into this thing. I'll finish it because I started it. But if I knew what I knew now, I wouldn't start it.

Thank you for explaining that in great detail i really appreciate everything you’ve done to make it clear for me that was all of my questions again Thank you

Can't stop won't stop! More to come for sure. Big thinks planned for 2025!

Happy I could help. But be careful when replacing a barrel on these things. In the real world I'm in the reassembly stage for this project and I just found out why Foxtrot Mike says they won't warranty the barrel nuts if removed! Basically there's only about .030" of wall thickness outside the threads. Which means if your torque it onto the receiver a second time, after already being stressed the first time, it just sheers in half completely. Ask me how happy I am.

@@NotaGuntuber Oooof, that’s very good to know. I guess I’ll wait till they have barrel nuts in stock again before trying a barrel swap

Thank you!

I would recommend watching part 2 of this. You have to modify an existing Aero barrel nut. Part 2 should help clarify.

Edit- Just re read TH-cam's policy and the vendor doesn't sell anything TH-cam says is against linking to. Therefore, you're looking for the Superior Triggers website.

I suggest watching the video in its entirety. I'm pretty sure I explain the color at some point in there. It has been a while since I made this so don't quote me on that though! I respond this way because it isn't a standard cerakote color. It is a custom blend I did with H series matte clear and pearlex mica powders over raw aluminum.

Not sure what you're referring to as I don't know any building in this video. But I do own a pair of pliers looking things called fret nippers.

@@NotaGuntuber lmao thank you man

I knew we had a moment! Since a lot of people will hang out with their dog in their shop, the ubiquitous shopdog, that's what I name her. Shopdog Ha!

I've always wondered if it had to do with the difficulty of bending something short. If you cut the rails to shape before bending then all you have is that little nub. And cutting after bending is likely cost prohibitive? I like the backer of flat steel idea!

None. They are something that I make myself. A Quick Look at the titles and thumbnails of this playlist should answer any other questions you have th-cam.com/play/PLbussVfAypJNyR1QnRIKnFExVJFIPOj5z.html

Ladies and gentlemen, this dude is a supremely generous individual who helped me out with learning the skills shown in this video more than he probably even knows! Thank you a ton! Also, couldn't agree more about the thread mills. I gravitated towards them because I don't have a the expensive tool holder for traditional tapping for my mill. I stuck with them because the single tooth thread mills are so versatile in the different threads they can accomplish and, like you said, you'll never get one broken off and stuck in a hole! I for sure have done that hand tapping with a traditional tap.

Give me a little bit. I can probably make that happen. When I do I'll put it in the description and ping you back over here.

Done. Enjoy.

@@NotaGuntuber Could I see the list as well?

@@PapaMooose click through to that video's description. I put it there like I told the other guy I would. It's ready and waiting for you.

Go to my Odysee channel and look back at my first video. The 2 hour Geisler one. I went from there to here is basically a year. Give it a shot! You can too!

Cool. I will have to look into how to do that because I definitely have some broken bits! Ha! Like any self respecting man I have kept many of them thinking I would one day find a use.

@@NotaGuntuber Back in the days when I worked as a machinist and ran machine shops, I never tossed out broken cutting tools. You never know when you'll find a use for them even after they can no longer be resharpened.

My Tormach playlist is only getting bigger! Enjoy.

I'm definitely going to circle back around and watch your other videos. I subscribed. I'm on the verge of pulling the trigger on a CNC. Which tormach are you using? I've been looking at those specifically

@@NotaGuntuber I love the part about only modeling what is absolutely necessary, I was dreaming about that shit last night actually. What I mean by that is I was obsessing about it while I was trying to sleep, modeling stuff and specifically only modeling when I had to do to get by with some slide serrations.

@@MoneyShot_CM I'll be reiterating that concept on some additional upcoming videos. It's a good one!

@@MoneyShot_CM It's an old PCNC770 that I got for a bargain because she is such a beater. Go watch the first video in my Tormach playlist. It runs through her in some detail.

Yes. Lots of things. I'm hoping to have the video for the barrel modification section of this project up by mid November. But I will give you a quick highlight. The amount of work you do will be highly dependent on the barrel profile you get. If you get something like a lower end PSA barrel like what I used you are going to have a ton of work! If you get something like a Faxon gunner profile you work will be minimal. But in both cases I really hope you have a lathe or a very steady hand.

Oh no! I've got you! Check the video description in a few minutes and I'll have listed the parts list and a general how to for the build. It's pretty simple to be honest.

Thank you for wasting the ATFs time. You are a true patriot mister.

Ur a tard nothing he is doing is a illegal bro u was the type in shcool to remind his teacher there was homework get life you loseerrr😂

It will. I'm sure they've got access to even more production capabilities than I by far! My ultimate goal is to mill my own design out of aluminum. There's a reddit thread on this as well and there's a lot of people hoping Geisler does their design from aluminum too. Theirs appears more carry oriented while mine is definitely more competition oriented though. Will be cool if I get to compare and contrast both one day!

Did you get the frame recently? If so you should have a Gen 2 and they have tightened up several things. Most notably the takedown lever slot that I shimmed in the Gen 1. Go watch my video on the Gen 2. It will clear some things up.