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What was the cause of yours doing the same intermittent fault?

Thank you. Was a long slog, but this car is always worth it to hear that R32 roar into life!

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. Which Alpina are you referring to? 👀

Thank you! Certainly was a journey, but got there in the end. Appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.

High resistance/ loose wiring in conversion loom which would work one minute then not the next also seemed to work when diagnosing individual items, but not when combined system needed to run the engine as normal. It had worked for years, but just not made to OEM grade. Some good stuff done along the way e.g. changing out the corroded fusebox, fuel system service

@@ABF16V Ah Cheers, makes sense.

Thanks @abf16v I couldn't have explained it better myself. 🤣

You were paying attention! Yes I had nicked one of the seals when I removed the injectors, (amateur error) so the seals were changed prior to the permanent refit. Leak free now. 😁

That's interesting to know. You'll see in the next video on the fan setup I used. If I find these no good over time then your baseplate is certainly something to consider.

We did suspect fuel could be an issue, but we ruled it out, as you can see in the video. The culprit was a bit tricker to diagnose!

It's a good job we're not the jealous type! 😇

instagram.com/reel/C-BR2rNIhyC/?igsh=MTR1dW53dWtxcnFpNA== 21st September. Keep an eye out on our Instagram and Facebook for details!

Earths was certainly a suspect, but on the R32 they're all concentrated to one bolt on the cam cover, which then is connected via a cable to the bulkhead. So thankfully not too much to check. That gutting about your Mk1 though! Shows how robust the engines are though!

Hi, it was this kit that I used. partsforgermancars.co.uk/product/vw-golf-r32-uprated-timing-chain/

@@golfmk2 hi thank you for that I've brought an fai kit which apparently VW say it's the same as OEM chain nervous don't cover it

Check out my video here and it'll guide you through how to fit the chains. th-cam.com/video/AmEf9ZFJft0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lRAzsA8M1fKrEqUm

Compression is fine, which becomes clear when you watch the video.

Can I suggest what you'd have done differently in the situation?

@@golfmk2 Hi. Learn how to diagnose and find the actual problem. I highly recommend this mechanic, great stuff!: www.youtube.com/@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics

Did you actually watch the video? It wasn't a case of parts being thrown at the car without diagnosis. Numerous different tests were carried out which all indicated to a fuel issue at the start. As it happens the fuel pump needed changing anyway due to dodgy readings which was put off for years, the fuse box you could see their was water corrosion damage we didn't know about also required changing. Couldn't have just left these issues. After ruling out so many things some parts did need buying to test/rule out the main start issue like the crank sensor, ecu and coil packs. But these are all good things to have as spares.

Not quite! Although, timing was suspected at one point. The exhaust is a de-cat 2.5" two box Trackslag system, so no chance of that blocking!

Better than the alternative... a Ford... *shudder*

Check out the full video and you'll see that compression is not the issue.

Thank you! Nearly defeated us though!

There is definitely a lot of sentiment towards these cars. Whilst they may not be worth as much as they are in Italy (a Mk3 VR6, for example is worth maximum £6000 in the UK and a very good condition Mk2 GTI 16v will be worth about £10,000-£12,000). My black R32 isn't worth near that as it's a less desirable trim (GL) so my work carried out is purely for the love/hate relationship I have with the car!

@@golfmk2 6k sounds about right. But you always had better prices over there because of the way they mounted the steering 😊. It's the first time I watched you're channel (YT recommended) and I saw you started the right way with the diagnostic process (gas, spark,compression, timming), but you fired the cannon at the end :) I personally would have (and I do) invested in tools instead of buying parts - if you want to cure your cars by yourself. Keep in mind that your car has a very limited diagnosis capabilities so just a scanner is a pretty useless tool. You have to go old school. First tool you'll need is a test light. Understanding the way systems work + a test light will help you about 80% diagnosing electrical faults. There are some amazing channels here on YT that teach you from the very basics to the very top end. I would recommend for starting (and not only) scannerdanner. If you already started watching his courses (he used to be a teacher) you're on the right track. If not, I highly recommend him. Then YT algorithm will take over and give you other great recommendations. Cheers! PS: He began posting 10+ years ago so start from older videos

Welcome to TH-cam. A world where people have actual faces. 🧔

If you’re going to take the time to ridicule someone, at least make sure to proofread what you’ve written. Honestly, trolls today are so lazy.

She's a good egg and not worth trading in just yet! 😉

Thank you very much for the kind words about the video. It was a challenging fault, as you well know! I've got some contact cleaner which I'll be using to clean up the connectors once we repair the wiring to try and futureproof it, as I really can't be dealing with a similar fault again!

Fortunately the OEM and TT wiring seems pretty good on this car, the problem was where the ME7.1.1 ECU wiring was joined to the conversion loom in the fusebox, plus a high resistance wire between the ECU and back of the fuel pump relay. So a combination of faults. Sounds like you've had your fair share of issues with old wiring too!

Mk5 is certainly a return to form for the GTI. I like them a lot. A 7.5 is pretty much perfection for me in terms of modern hatchbacks though. They just look great from every angle.

Thanks mate. Yeah I was slowly losing the will to live as I tried everything to no avail. Especially when I'd stripped it down to test injectors and replaced the fusebox and it still didn't work! I was close to binning it at that point 🤣

Thank you. It's an awesome car that's been meticulously developed bit by bit over 2 decades.

Lol 😆 what makes you say he owned it?

@@golfmk2 Look on your number plate.

Beadles VW 🤣🤣🤣. OK you got me there 😭😭

@@golfmk2 How did the creeper reach the gear stick?

Take my strong hand! 😆

Interesting. How do you do that and does it change depending on what it's reading from the flywheel?

Had its work cut out, didn't it? 😆

I'm glad you enjoyed the torture! 😅 And whilst the process wasn't much fun, it was a great learning curve and I enjoyed making the video.

Great advice and something I already have bought, ready for when we re-wire the loom. Should help prevent any severe corrosion, hopefully.

Now way that's a nightmare! Fortunately It started the problems, then I topped up the tank with fuel from a couple of 20l cans so it was nearly full, just to rule that out. But that's unlucky for you!

They do like to catch you off guard! 🤣

How about the ecu it solved m,y problem

Tried the ECU right towards the end of the video, to no avail.

Yes, checked on VCDS, showing 180RPM on cranking and you can see it fluttering on the rev counter when cranking too. But sometimes they can fail just enough out of tolerance so as to not flag an error code, and appear to work fine on test.

@@golfmk2 something like that happend to my cirdoba 1.4 16v it worked fine and sometimes begin to work like subaru and sometimes it cranks just like your golf,changed crank sensor with plastic in which he sits and metall ring which must be in fase with engine as i was told by mechanic and it starts every time.i saw it at the end that wires were faulty

Yeah the crank sensor is a funny one and understandably the 'go to' fix with these and pretty straightforward to change (as I found out the 2nd time). But yep, just age, wear and tear on the conversion loom ended up being the culprit. But a permanent fix will have us back on the road.

@@golfmk2 i'm glad you found what was the problem,nice car i wish you many more miles/km with it

All easy start would do would confirm we had spark and timing. But, as you'll see from the video, when trying carb cleaner (which isn't quite as volatile) it ran whilst sprayed in the throttle body, but not whilst the fuel pump relay was plugged in.

Yeah we thought it may be, but as it wasn't showing any codes and also the RPM signal is showing on cranking, we ruled it out, until last ditch efforts before stripping down meant ultimately changing it.

The video details all the things checked.

Give it a watch and you will see, but it's not that

What was challenging was the intermittent nature of the fault, so all earths were checked, power to the relays was checked. The fault ended up being narrowed down to high resistance from the ME7.1.1 ECU to CE2 conversion wiring. Also, the fuel pump relay, despite being a new one, was also not always engaging. So a big, chunky Mk4 one has been fitted and it now fires every time. Wiring will be ripped out and replace the solder connections with Superseal connectors.

Thank you. Yeah the cars were of a really high standard. The Audi A2 is a quirky little rare car now! Sure to be a collectors item, I think. Way ahead of its time.

Appreciated! 🙌 Plenty of other Mk2 related content on the channel, so feel free to check out the other videos and see what you think. 😁

Thank you very much for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed it. 😁

I take it you haven't watched the video in its entirety? 😆

Wow! Long term owner!

Thank you sir. Loved them ever since had 3 total. Still got 2

Fantastic. What spec are the ones you own?

8v 1990 with abf now. A 1991 16v 4 door. All UK cars imported into Malaysia. Had a slight accident so the 1991 is under repair

I was slowly losing the will to live! Learnt a lot though, and now we have a whole host of new bits fitted, so hopefully futureproofed!

And I wonder why the paint is covered in tiny scratches... 🙄

It was one of the wires spliced in to make the CE2 fusebox join the ME7.1.1 ECU to that had high resistance primarily, plus a few dry joints within the solder sleeves that were causing intermittent faults. Wasn't just one issue, which is what kept throwing us off track.