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Awesome! There may be cases where the high gain can be too much. Def worth experimenting with both low and high to see what works better. Thankfully the way you provide power to the preamp is super convenient to switch between the two. Good luck!

@@MostlyBuilds thanks I hope to report back !! 🍻

Everything is listed in the description below the video. You just need to expand it.

That’s what I do with my center fed dipole. I have 3 pulleys with weights holding it up. I think my weights are between 3-4kg. The weight of the antenna wire and how strong it is will dictate how much counter balance weight you can safely use before it breaks the wire. I posted two videos about the weights that I made. Here is the second one where I filled them with BBs: th-cam.com/video/30LFzLWNYWU/w-d-xo.html

@@MostlyBuilds Thanks for your tip . Excellent work, in your video on counter balance weights.

I didn’t see anything obvious in regard to wear points. It did cross my mind that I could have reversed the washers on either side of the small gear, causing it to rub on the case differently. Or I may have missed some particles when cleaning the case and that caused the wear. You really need to do a good job cleaning out the case. This last round of taking the trans apart, I ended up flushing the whole thing with fresh oil (in addition to using a ton of cleaner) because I took it apart multiple times due to breaking the bypass pin. When I got my parts back from being rebuilt, they looked very clean. When I saw the new wear this time around, I considered sending the parts out again but didn’t want to have to wait to get them back. I just risked it and very carefully sanded the center case faces with something like 3k grit paper. I don’t know what else the rebuild guy does with the parts. I think he also does something with the little pistons because they came back with a marker line on the face of each one. Good luck with the rebuild. If you come across anything interesting please feel free to share 😀

The company that makes this recently posted that they are working on a prototype that pumps air: facebook.com/share/v/XtHmQVkX9ezn4LBy

That would probably work to protect the ends if you can get the tennis balls to stay on. I’d guess that little giant doesn’t want the wingspan reversed because of the forces put on it in that position. Definitely a proceed at your own risk kind of situation 😀

Ouch. How did you manage to grind up the gears? Did all the oil leak out or something?

@@MostlyBuilds 4 years ago it had blown out a seal and was brought back to the dealer under warranty, I'm wondering if they didn't get it filled exactly right or they didn't put the correct oil in it. I was hearing Deere put 1030 in it when tuff torq specifies 5w50 Then again, how did it make it another 4 years, granted the last few summers have been dry and it didn't get the usual hours mowing put on it.

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 wow. Have you contacted John Deere corporate? If you haven’t, I highly recommend doing so. The fact that you had a transmission failure when under warranty and then it mysteriously blows up? That sounds super suspicious. I wouldn’t be surprised if they give you a new transmission.

@@MostlyBuilds I don't believe John Deere corporate is on the side of the consumer/farmer. But maybe I ought to try it.

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 it doesn’t cost ya anything other than a few minutes. I emailed them about my early transaxle failure (~130 hours I think?). They wanted me to take the machine to a dealer so they could get more info. I had already started messing with it myself so I missed out on them potentially helping me out. I was surprised that they seemed like they might do something though. They didn’t just tell me too bad.

Any good stories? 😀

Hi! I’m still happy with it. I like that it is removable. That came in handy when winterizing the motor last year. My only complaint is that I wish it would hold the rope higher. I solved the rope spray issue with the booster ball that I showed in the video, but I’d prefer to not have to carry that around in the boat along with the tube. To be clear, it works fine, it’s just a logistical complaint. I see other pontoon boats on the water with a deck mounted tow bar that raises the rope above the motor. I like that design better except for the fact that the connection point is on the deck. My pontoon boat doesn’t have enough rear deck space for one to fit (I think), and more importantly I would worry about it breaking off and someone getting hurt. I recall looking at them and seeing that they aren’t “rated” for tubes. Confusingly all I see people tow with them are tubes. The turboswing feels super sturdy since it is connected to the transom. I’ve had riders put too much weight on the front of the tube when we are getting going and submarine the tube. This puts a lot of pressure into the system because it basically acts like an anchor. I just slow down and start again. No issues with the turboswing yet in that regard. I don’t know how a deck mounted bar would fare in that situation. Hope this helps. If you have any more specific questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them.

@@MostlyBuilds thanks for the detailed response. I also saw a few videos that pulling tubes not recommended being pulled w/ deck mounted tow bars. Something about more pounds of drag especially if tube submarines. I wonder how strong the tie down loops that are welded onto the end of the tubes are. Can you hook a bridle to attach the tow rope too? Even more of a problem w/ the rope being too close to the water but for a quick fix when the grand kids come up?

@TinyIslandMaine I would be afraid to use the pontoon loops pulling anything beyond like 1-2mph. If one ripped off it might rocket into someone’s face. No idea if those welds are designed for the kind of forces it would experience when tubing. Reminds me of the stories of people putting recovery straps on the tow ball on their trucks and killing the person behind them when it shears off. I have made a bridle like you describe for a “lazy river” tow where we connected a bunch of tubes and pulled a bunch of people real slow around the lake. I connected that to the two rear cleats. Not sure how safe even that is, but we went as slow as the boat would go. I put a boat fender at the tip of the triangle to help it avoid the prop. Tubing on its own already has dangers involved. I personally wouldn’t want to throw a sketchy setup into the mix. That’s just me though. Good luck!

Pretty much all the competing mowers at this price point are going to be the same situation. It’s not just a John Deere thing 😀

Thank you!

I don’t think it does. I only see torque units on mine. The product page only shows torque units as well

This one dosent do that. U have to purchase different type.

You put the wedge looking part in upside down. The part that I’m talking about is the one that is close to the brake disc. The shaft that the brake disc is connected to goes through the center of this part. You likely had to compress this wedge piece when putting the pump center case assembly back into the transmission case. Tuff Torq apparently designs it this way because some mower manufacturers need it to spin one way and others need it to spin the opposite way. You’re going to have to open the case again and flip the wedge 180 degrees. Let me know how it goes 😀

I’d love to get my hands on a TL 200 to take it apart to see if anything is obviously different inside.

You should be able to find a locksmith in your area that can cut a custom key for you. I’ve seen mentions of online services that let you provide a code and they will cut a key as well. Not sure I’d want to be sending my key code to someone online.

You could also buy a new lock. They all come with keys. I think you could probably get a “better” key code that is less cookie cutter from a locksmith though.

Good luck! Would love to hear how things went if you feel like reporting back.

Thanks! I’ll let the little man know he has a fan!

Thanks! Are you saying a permanent retrieval rope that goes all the way to the ground being a potential problem? Or are you saying there could be an issue with the retrieval loop design?

No sir. Your design is ideal for safety purposes in my opinion. Unless your alone out in the woods I guess it wouldn't matter.

@@mjcintenn ah gotcha. The only downside that I thought of for my design is if the rope going through the pulley breaks or falls out. Then you have to find a different way to hook the retrieval loop.

In case it helps, TH-cam gives you the option to change the playback speed. You can use that to slow it down.

Are you asking about the screen flipping code? The readme on the GitHub repo explains how I hooked it up to a button. If you just want to run the script directly you can execute “python screen_flipper.py” or python3 depending on your setup. Note that you may need to change values at the top of the python script since it assumes screen ID 0 and HDMI 1. If you are using a different screen you might also need to adjust that regex at the top too.

@@MostlyBuilds I can't get mine to grab it from github and install it

Haha awesome right? I was really hoping for a comment about this when I was making the video! You made my day 🎉

Super cool! Would love to hear how it turns out.

Ouch. What’s a new machine cost?

@@MostlyBuilds A new Toro DH220 is around £3,400 equivalent to about $4,400.

Like, very sun hardened.

Hard to say without seeing it in person, but sounds like there is a good chance of the holes ripping based on your description.

I haven’t tried this but I’ve seen a few people attempt this with solutions that look a little hacked together (using things like JB Weld). Here are two: www.mytractorforum.com/threads/k46-oil-cooler-custom-my-way.1321309/#replies (Expand the first post on this one) Another one I found when I was looking up that first link to paste on here: th-cam.com/video/mhgfeOZvSDI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KgD5ZbpDEOTr5_1B I think it would be interesting to add an oil cooler. I’d also be interested in building in an oil filter that can be easily replaced. I might do this one day, but I’d like to come up with a more “production” looking design than the two links I pasted. Please share if you come up with anything or have any interesting ideas. Would love to collaborate.

ATSC 3 is a huge mess currently. Theoretically the HDHomerun will get an update to support DRM if all the parties involved can get their acts together. Who knows if ATSC 3 will even survive. LG announced they are dropping ATSC 3 support from their TVs.

Hah well if you wanted to go full cowboy you could try putting a bigger pulley on the transaxle’s input shaft.

@MostlyBuilds sooooo, I put a bigger pully on it. And it's about twice as fast. But it feels like the pump just dumps off all the excess pump pressure through the bypass.. I am wondering if I remove the bypass if I can get it faster yet lol.

@@ZackBadCompany1234 hah wow 2x faster sounds pretty awesome. I could be wrong but I don’t think you can “remove the bypass”. The bypass rod turns an internal shaft that presses on a little pin that slightly separates the motor cylinder from the center case on the pump assembly. I actually broke this pin recently by messing up putting things back together after taking the trans apart again. With the pin missing, the bypass rod does nothing and won’t separate the pump parts to let oil leak though. It’s the same as having the bypass rod turned off (pushed in). My guess is you are exceeding the pressures that the pump is designed for. I wouldn’t be surprised if it is also heating up and causing the oil to become more thin, making it easier to squirt out between the pump surfaces. If you don’t care about destroying the trans, you could potentially try a heavier weight oil that might not thin out as easy at higher temps. Possibly leaking less at higher pressure. A total guess! The standard disclaimer applies! I’m not an expert. Don’t hurt yourself. Don’t listen to me 😀

@MostlyBuilds haha my thought is to remove that little pin 😁 heavier oil is a good idea as well. And no worries I take full responsibility for my Tom foolery 😆 great video btw have a good one!!

@MostlyBuilds so here's an update. Removed bypass pin. ( your right, does nothing except stops the free wheeling with manipulation of the small lever on the back) I put some Lucas hydraulic oil stop leak and that increased pressure a little more and gave me a little more speed. I am in a situation now where the hydraulic pressure exceeds pump limits, and the pump body separates and bleeds off any excess pressure I was able to make. I do plan on swapping to a solid axel with a cvt style clutxh. So, I will do any mods regardless of the consequences 😆