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CrackerJack Mechanic
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 25 ก.พ. 2018
On this channel I post content about motorcycles and pass along useful knowledge to help you with working on motorcycles
Pro tips to help you with regular maintenance, service work, and engine rebuilding.
If you like motorcycles, Please subscribe, and get my videos as soon as they become available!
I'm a Motorcycle Mechanic currently active in the trade. A few things I've done include, I've owned my own motorcycle shop, as well as an importing business selling new motorcycle parts online.
Pro tips to help you with regular maintenance, service work, and engine rebuilding.
If you like motorcycles, Please subscribe, and get my videos as soon as they become available!
I'm a Motorcycle Mechanic currently active in the trade. A few things I've done include, I've owned my own motorcycle shop, as well as an importing business selling new motorcycle parts online.
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Does the "S&S Cycle Quickee Pushrod and Cover Kit 106-6051" fits a twin cam 103 (Street bob 2016)? Thanks in advance
Be best for you to have a good look at the S&S website for fitment.
Jeff, I know I am really late to the party. I am interested in installing some performance cams in my 04 Fatboy and I really found this video to be thought provoking. Good Job! I have a question though. After cyl #2 is at TDC, and the pushrod is adjusted, you wait for the hydraulic lifters to bleed down before rotating the engine to find TDC of cyl #1. The reason for waiting on the lifter bleed down is due to the valve to piston clearance of cyl #2. What happens to the valve to piston clearance at engine startup when the lifters pump up to full pressure? I am not a mechanic but someone who is interested in doing some modifications to my bike before I leave this earth.
I like your question. It shows thought into what’s happening. I know what happens and they don’t really over pump or pump to full pressure like you’re thinking. The tappets operate using hydraulic pressure inside to keep valve lash at zero and reduce noise. Google another TH-cam video on how tappets function would be my recommendation so you can get a visual of how it works
Thank you for your additional information. I think I am still a little confused so let me explain what I think is now happening. The reason you have to wait for the lifter to bleed down with the adjustable pushrod is that after it is adjusted to specs it is actually a little longer than the original. This new length has now opened the valve ever so slightly. As a result, valve spring pressure is forcing the lifter to neutralize hence closing the valve and allowing the ability to spin the pushrod. Man I hope I got this right! 🙂
the adjustables, once properly adjusted, are the same length of they stock pushrods they replace. Even when installing the original one piece pushrods, when you tighten down the rocker arm carrier, you have to be aware that you will be compressing the tappets themselves
Thank you for your help. I do have some questions about recommended performance cams but that will have to be at a later time. Thank you again.
My bike vibrates everywhere so I use lock tight and check and tighten everything down… Also make sure tires are inflated properly before you leave…
👍🏼 good tips!
If you’re going to tighten the shifter linkage, you need to also check the connection at the transmission! That pivot is an expensive fix on the road, the outer and inner primary has to come off.
Yes you are correct! I do cover that in another video. Thanks for your comment!! ✌🏼
Thank you CrackerJack for the great advice! I would like to make a couple of recommendations. First is anytime you see some rust behind a bolt, please loosen it a bit and add a few drops of oil behind the fastener head/washer, then tighten it back down. Second is when you are inspecting the battery connections and you see an accessory plug that is not being used, please put some electrical tape over it to prevent water intrusion.
I’m fighting my Feuling APR. I can’t seem to get them right. I put on a cam plate, oil pump, cams, and APR. it’s been days since I got back to the bike, it wouldn’t stay running after initial install, I’ve checked cam timing, all sprockets and marks are good. Tensioners are brand new. Do I need to wait for roller bleed down if it installed them days ago? Do I need to start from scratch again with pumped up rollers? I’m not looking at the instructions atm, but I think they’re 20tpi 7/16x20. I really need some help. I checked the top of the pistons for any witness marks from initial install to make sure nothing was damaged. I have not done compression test or cylinder leak down. 2010 FLHX Stock 96” minus the above mentioned upgrades.
that’s a bit to unpack, but it sounds like missed something in setting the pushrods. Make sure you have the cylinder you are setting the pushrods in the correct position (TDC compression). adjust the pushrods until they touch the lifters, then adjust the “preload” by setting the pushrods as detailed in my video. Lifters usually bleed down in 15 minutes max after extending them into the lifters. Again make sure you are setting them in the correct position at TDC of compression stroke for each set
This is coolest grown up i have ever seen
You know it!
Wow! Even a Harley hating DOUCHE BAG in these comments!
I got exactly same sound on 2006 C50 with 56k miles. Maybe not as bad yet th-cam.com/video/F8WR733pkBY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7M1z1T_WsgYgxjSC Sad but thanks for the video.
Thx
😊 thank you!
@@CrackerJackMechanic i have a 07 rkclassic n 2000 ultra my rkc started shaking rubbing while riding I have to diagnose asap fall riding coming the rubbing etc just started im alittle worried
Thanks for this. I’m working on a hardtail project and was totally lost on the lines. This made it so much easier
I’m glad you found my video! I had the same issue, and I had access to all the available Harley manuals and such, so once I got it sorted out, I figure someone else might need it someday! and here we are 😆👍🏼
Cool video quick to the point good tips (basics for any Harley owner) but dude that air filter is filthy clean and oil that bad boy!
🤪 Good eye! I’m sure after all it got done!
Early 60’s--Friday night-four of us heading to wasaga-one guy looses all 4 motor bolts--other three take out one bolt each--continue ride with three motor bolts in each bike,-carry on like it was just another day in the life of a Harley rider--I’m 82 and the only one left of that bunch,-got a softail now and still get out for a putt once in a while,-i just like to make shure my nuts are tight--ktssu--p--
Love this! Great story! and thanks for the share! I Spent a lot of summers as a kid in Wasaga at my Grandparents in the late 70s and 80s
You have been so good about answering questions. Can you comment on the on the chia head of fine steel that collects on our primary case magnets. They appear to be all of identical shape and length like they were manufactured. Like hair, cut a16th of an inch long. The dealer when shown the "chia head" magnet say "ya that's normal. The stock clutch plates wouldn'd be the source of the metal shavings would they? In a previous comment I mentioned that the clutch plates I took out looked good but the outer circumference did show slight wear leaving me to question whether that could be the source of the steel hair. Thanks
😝 “chia head” Thanks! It is wear of the metal parts, and indeed it is what is considered “normal”. I suspect it comes more likely from the chain and sprockets themselves. This is why regular oil changes are important, and cleaning off that magnet which we naturally do when doing a service.
shit this just happened to me today! fuk! thanx first vid that was actually informative
Glad the videos helped! 👍🏼
@@CrackerJackMechanic yea man I ordered a new clutch right after the vid ended
@@mickey-eq5vw good stuff!
@@CrackerJackMechanici just replaced my clutch with a barnett clutch, the springplate was still intact along with the other plates, no biggie i got a new clutch, everything went in good no issues and I have the same problem clutch eighther super tight n not grabbing or super loose n not grabbing..the cable is good, i think the release is good..Do you think its the spring diaphram?? i just ordered one all i can think it might be??
i smelled a burning smell when i tested it from under the derby cover, if that helps
Excellent video !! Great explanation and video view ! Especially the verification of amount of preload and adjustment !ty
Thanks! glad you liked it! 👍🏼
That answered a lot of my questions. Thanks bud
👍🏼 I’m glad you found the video useful!
Merci. 👍.
💯 Très bien!
Wish you were closer . I could watch you change mine...
😝 And I would gladly do it Sir!
What about the one on the left side touchdown inside the hole how can you fix that thread hole
If it’s stripped completely I use a heli-coil kit to repair.
Brilliantly explained and demonstrated. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
thank you for your comment! I am glad you found the video useful. 🙏🏼💯
Thanks
💯👍🏼
How long is a piece of string? It's sort of like a drive belt. It depends on how much it has been stretched.
🤣🤣👍🏼
Thank you! Much appreciated
💯 you’re welcome! thank you!! 🙏🏼
How do you know if your out 180 degrees ?
Good question. Out 180 you would likely have valves hitting the piston at TDC
Yes thank you it was just stuck on the 2 towels. Do you remember the lifter bores the oils holes were on the outside and the lifter oil holes were lined up on them facing outward right? unlike the regular Harley book says face oil holes on lifers all face inward? Again thanks
I don’t think it matters as there is a channel/groove machined around the lifter body to allow oil, it’s more just for a better direct feed I imagine. It used to matter more on old shovels. new stuff not so much. 👍🏼
Lifters are held up with clips and pulled up. I think even if they were not held up the cam plate would still come out. I think it held on to the dowles. I laughed I thought I would just cut the rods like you lol
so you got it out!? 👍🏼
Cant get my can plate to pull out. What would be stuck/jammed ? Motor never been ran. Thank you
Did you take the lifters out? and double check that all the bolts are out! I may take a little wiggle bit usually doesn’t require excessive force.
I have the same motor did just what you did. My motor has never been run. I can get the cam plate to pull out any Ideas. It did look like you had to pull a bit I can't get mine to pull out any help would be great thank you
Did you take the lifters out? and double check that all the bolts are out! I may take a little wiggle bit usually doesn’t require excessive force.
good stuff!!!
Thank you! 🙏🏼
maybe the best performance book out there the only problem is most people don't know how to read anymore
🤣 Right!? This book has so much useful information! Any other ones you like?
@@CrackerJackMechanic well for what they charge for this one I can't afford any other ones
I haven’t even looked! I got this one new in ‘94!
@@CrackerJackMechanic $140.00 new. plenty in my opinion but that's the way it goes
I have motorcycles in my blood. I really enjoyed your Video. Thank you so much. John M.
I hear that! It’s always about motorcycles for me as well! Thanks for your comment, I needed it!!
You should do a video on customers who watched TH-cam university to tell you how to fix their bike, boat, Jetski, car, or whatever! Those are the best! lol!
That would be funny!
A piece of string is as long as a piece of string is 😅 1:19
My mentor journeyman used to say that! it’s true right!? 😝
@@CrackerJackMechanic I have have to say so. 😜🤪😝
Good morning 🌅, I am in the process of changing my belt , the previous owner had had the belt too tight, it’s only just done over 48,000 miles, The bike has not been serviced properly, And I’ve got to change both pulleys as well, France.
💯👍🏼
I thought this why we have different levels of lock tight?
👍🏼
Shouldn't you let the first pushrod bleed down completely before you adjust the second pushrod (inlet and exhaust valve on the same cylinder) because you can get valve kiss (the two valves touch each other) and end up with a bent valve.
Good question. and it doesn’t t lift enough to worry about, it’s bleeding down as soon as you start preloading and by the time you start adjusting the second one you won’t get interference. Maybe on a really high lift cam which would require head work. If you are concerned you can wait til the adjusted pushrod is loose, to do the second one. I’ve never had any trouble
@@CrackerJackMechanic thanks for that bro.
any time!
@@brenttrading2363 💯✌🏼
@@brenttrading2363 💯
Best video on TH-cam explaining every detail excellent job but boy it would make life easier if they just put numbers on there and markings from the manufacturer
Thank you! and I do agree, it would make life easier if they added some indications.
thanks for the look into the trade. I am working on becoming an instructor which is mostly weekend stuff. If i find a shop that will have me, I'd love to start building up that skillset during the week. I'm going to start pokin around. Thankfully instructors are paid pretty decently so I can work for pennies if i've got to to get my start.
All the best! and we never really stop learning!
I miss something? Step spacer goes on inside? Now you have moved bearing away from race by the step. No longer do bearing and race align or do my machine skills not apply? The more you put between bearing and race you take away from bearing race matching. Step should be on outside so bearing and race maintain integrity
yes, you missed something
What is your email address?
crackerjackmechanic@yahoo.ca
They just should put numbers on them and make it easier for install
It would make it easier for sure!! most times they don’t even have their manufacturer name!
Great video and detail, I'm about to change my Twin Cam chain tensioners and have gone down the S&S Quickee route for the pushrods. Can I ask if I'm right in that you cut the pushrods when they're at cam base circle and install the new ones on the overlap?
Thanks! and you cut and install the pushrods at their lowest position, on the base circle, with that cylinder on TDC of the compression stoke. (the valves are closed and there is no serious pressure on the pushrods at the position).
@@CrackerJackMechanic thanks a lot for replying, will be starting this next week 👍🏻
if you have any more questions just ask!
Another good place to check is the shifter at the trans . That cinch bolt likes to get loose on the splines.
yes indeed you are correct sir! I have this noted in another video. It is often overlooked and sometimes tightening isn’t possible without replacement of the old bolt, as it get a “notch” worn into it and prevents it from turning in, so as to make difficult to tighten. I’ve seen them worn so bad the shift shaft need replacement! and that then requires transmission disassembly. Thanks for checking out my video!
Thanks for sharing!!
You’re welcome! I hope you found it useful.
Excellent video
Thank you!
I needed this even thought mines a 2007 the lower line on mine leaking n idk if i needed ro remove the caseing cover to get to it
i’m not 100% sure on the later model ones if you need to take the case off, lean it over on the side stand and get a flashlight and have a peek underneath. Might just need a clamp tightened up.
Do you need to adjust the carb with the new exhaust? The newer sportsrers you have to re tune.
It is usually recommended, depending on what carb and if it was set up properly. with just the installation pipes you may not require adjustment.
I will have to check for sound, but my 08 c50t has a significant vibration that goes way when i pull in the clutch, ive been searching the cause any ideas?
Check your engine mounts and make sure they are not starting to loosen.
I'm actually looking at MMI now. Youre right Orlando and Phoenix. I'm looking at the Phoenix location. However, Im not sure if i want to make it a career. I'm getting my M class license soon, as well as my first bike.
Hey! Glad you found this older video. I have been meaning to revisit the information and kinda of include my origin story as well as thoughts on it today in a more current context and perspective. The career of motorcycle mechanics is indeed rewarding as well as cool 😎 for the most part. topics to consider dealerships vs. aftermarket shops and overall expectations for income. I hope the school curriculum includes these topics although they are subject to opinions. I would like to see the industry wages come up some. There is room for opportunity and advancements can come with time and experience. often times you will work on more than just motorcycles, so keep that in mind when looking for places to work. Seasonal layoffs can be a reality in winter months or off-seasons should also be considered. I have worked in depth and experienced many of these different situations, that come with winter months that include snow. And with most mechanic jobs/careers tools will be an added expense to consider. Even with the supply of lower cost quality tools, it adds up quickly!