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Hmm I am a tad confused. Up front I am a retired sparky here in Oz but like to keep updated on the SAA wiring rules etc and continue to do work on my own house and sheds. As stated I am a bit confused on the size of the earth you are using when you bonded the light fittings. I have checked the SAA wring rules in Section 5 and from my reading the earth is only required to that that as specified in the related table 5.1 given the size of the cable used to feed the lights or under section 5.3.3.1.1.. Even under section 5.3.3.4 subsection (a) 2.5mm single core appears sufficient in this case if the earth is not in the original cabling. I would greatly appreciate if you could expand on why such a large bonding earth is required.

Although retired I still like to keep up to date with current rules and regulations just for my own benefit and work at home and your videos assit in that function. I particularly like the fact when you terminate your cables you double them back on themselves which greatly reduced the chance of the cable breaking under the screw, particularly single stand wire such as 1 or 1.5 mm. I always taught my apprentices to terminate wires (where possible) in this fashion.

Curious about the 5x rating of CCC in the switchboard. Do you have a reference for that? Thanks

Got a question, for an rcbo the placements of the neutral wire does not matter on the neutral bar does it? unless you want to put it in order?

Is there any benefit using 3 core cable instead of 2 core for strap between the switches? If not, is using 3 core just a waste of cable?

That looks pretty vertical. Id rate them though we use them for solar in qld and havent had any issues. The pivoting feet are great when you can stab them into the grass

It’ll be better if you ran it on 90 brother

🪜

Wagos

Not too bad for a couple dudes digging out each other's holes... I like it, not for my geography but it will buck

Not too bad for two lovers just having a romantic afternoon 😘

Sparky here with the same printer. There’s an app that bluetooths to the printer and enables a lot of customisation and ease. It also has a print log and you can save templates of your labels if you do many of the same sort. Add images etc to your labels.

Hi, are you in Auckland? I was wondering if you could help me out and give me some advice personally?

Hi mate, See how you’ve put a link in between 95 and 96 of the OL is that needed?

Love the reo maori bro Meke as

Good work bro

Thanks for video. I am second year apprentice, i did my first SB couple weeks ago, i was very proud. Would you be able to make a video on how to wire emergency exit light. Thankyou.

😮😳

Who do you order the slimline breakers from?

Hey NZ Tradie, do the breakers all have polarity? The reason I ask is in my practical we were instructed to wire them from bottom to top. Which didn't make sense to me, and your Video is using a more logical method of wiring top to bottom.

Hey man awesome video wanted to ask do you earth the solar panels or nah?

Mad view bro!

Hello from Ireland, very similar way we do things here, with some interesting differences aswell, for instance, we don’t put links between the earth and Neutral bar, it’s done by the network operator in the meter cabinet! Also those slimeline mcbs are class, we have Notting like that! Cool seen how things are done in NZ!

What's the practical way to tighten screws to a particular torque (2.5Nm / 3.0Nm / 3.5Nm) ? Do sparkies all actually carry / use a torque screwdriver?

Great video, nice and clear with descriptions and reasons on why your doing certain things a certain may

Thank you very much

Best switch board video ever. Where does it say in rules that a wire in switchboard is rated 5 times its current. I would like to know. Thanks very much.

Hello From Auckland!

Is this how it's done in NZ? This would not cut it in the UK.

This was epic thanks so much !

Gal spray smells so good 🤣

One way to stop corrosion! I know asnz 3000 doesn't say anything against it but I wonder if any inspectors would have a problem with that

Best kind of farm is one that grows food.

Are the panels upside down?

Great explanation 👌🏼

Unless you’re a sparky they never clean up after themselves

What size cables can you use it on?

I have no idea what you're talking about. This doesnt explain anything without context

Will a bus bar have the current capacity for all circuits. Is there a max load you can supply. I mean can the bus bar handle 5 * 20 AMP MCB and a 40 Amp MCB etc etc Also if you use wire to loop the active to every MCB what are the rules on its size ? Should you take each active from main switch and use the size appropiate for the MCB ?? Lots of confusion on this topic i think among electricians... Maybe do a video on this

Far that's low-key hot 🔥 👀

Literally how you said it tbh! Yes use way more heat shrink but tbh I prefer it that way because I know it's a complete connection for one and 2 I personally feel like that's the best practice here in Nz

Pink wood?

Sockets are so much better IMO. I'm slowly transitioning from hardwired to sockets with each light as I change each out.

1mm into a GPO?? What's it getting used for out of curiosity, more so as it looks as if it's outside,

Depends on the downlights the customer wants to go with, the Hugos I typically use need to be hard wired as they dont come with a lead

As a fellow NZ sparky thats done a few of these boards, I have always crimped the meter neutral in with the incoming with a lug onto an added main earth and neutral bar next to the meter location, usually a pair of 3x6way stud bars on stand offs, this allows the MEN link to be at the meter with a proper copper link rather a wire between. That and it allows for a distribution neutral to be connected via a lug and stud inside the combo box, you'll be fine to downzize without any issues to 16mm which will go into the screw terminals of the neutral bars alot easier also allowing a better connection.

What is this product code?

U dont want to run more than 120 volts through buttons right?

This is why we use twin red/black from the mains entry point to the switchboard, rather than neutral screen. I'm guessing this is a slab with underground mains rather than overhead. Heatshrink the entire main neutral and crimp the meter neutral into it at the end with a single lug. If you used a through-crimp and joined it low down as you suggested, you've created another point of failure for the main neutral. Considering the risks with bad neutral connections on MEN systems being hard to detect, this seems foolish. Why did you cut the incoming live in so short though? Leave the extra length in there as a service loop. If the main switch ever needs replacement and the strands need re-stripping, now you need to put a join on the incoming mains too which is pretty gross.

I haven’t seen a hardwired install in many years