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I don't have access to one right now... but if I recall, there should be a safety screw on the bottom of each prism housing . (You don't have to take any covers off.) If you remove the safety screw on the bottom you should be able to pull the whole housing out of the head and get access to the 3 screws that mount the pivot barrel. They may be loose. I hope you solve it...

@@grasshoppaMedia Thank you for that valuable info. Problem solved.

Are you sure it's the main board? Are you getting 15VDC out of your power supply plug? Does the yellow power indicator light come on when you plug the cable into the slit lamp? I know this is obvious, but make sure your plugs are fitting tightly into their receptacles. I think you would have to replace the whole main board. I don't have any schematics for the main board. Check with Topcon.

I hear you, bruh. I asked the guy at Hardly Moving Productions, whose video inspired me, how much I should add and he gave me a safe estimate. I figured if this guy is doing it all the time, he would probably have some pretty good advice. It's still working.... I hope you find your answer.

www.nrf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/NRF-Air-Conditioning-Filling-Chart-R134a-R1234yf-2020-PC-1.pdf

The company I work for threw away all our old Burton slit lamps. Off hand I would say to look on Ebay for one for parts.

@@grasshoppaMedia yea thats what i thought but all the 835 or 860 are expensive enough i should just buy a new one. no parts for sale and cant find a part number to check other models. might be time for a new slit lamp, thanks for the quick response though!

It seems like the global (made by the same manufacturer but with different brand labels applied) slit lamps are fairly inexpensive these days. I'm not sure of their durability over the long run but for the short run they seem to be able to get 'er done ☺

If you are trying to blow dust off the filters, you might be able to remove it by blowing some dry air in the gap on either side of the filter wheel. We use a hand held hurricane blower (often used on camera lens maintenance) rather than canned air because there is sometimes chemical propellants in the canned air that can end up on your filters.

Let us know how it eventually turns out!

Perhaps look inside your knob under the cap to make sure there are no cracks in the knob. If there is a crack that will prevent it from getting tight to the shaft and therefore not holding. This happens often on the Zeiss knobs. Just get it snug, not too tight or it will crack the plastic knob.

Glad to hear! Is the war with Russia affecting your life routines?

Can you send a photo of the lamppost lenses? I'm not sure what you are referring to...

That is just a regular steel ball bearing. I updated the notes up top. Thanks!

@@grasshoppaMedia thank you so much, I thought with this kind of loads we need thrust bearings! Interested design

Your earlier question #1 about the bulb.... Some new bulbs are bad and show a dark side. Try another new bulb... Question #2: If the light flickers when you move the 2 wires of the bulb socket assembly then you need a new socket assembly because the inside contacts have oxidation on them and moving the wires disrupts the contacts. In the USA you can email our parts dept at jcampbell@lombartinstrument.com Maybe he could answer your question of where you could get them outside the USA. Hope this helps.

Have you viewed the 2 videos showing the head alignment of the 120/130, both convergent and parallel? th-cam.com/video/8HG1mlYsZzw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B7pWZe2Z9Re2Wdoh "Zeiss SL120/130 Binocular Head Alignment Part 1 Convergent" th-cam.com/video/G1o0jbTYqf8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qN78B8LdQa4MuvDT "Zeiss SL120/130 Binocular Head Alignment Part 2: Parallel" Do you have a Zeiss focus bar? You can email me by looking up my channel on TH-cam and finding the email address. (click on the > to see address)

@@grasshoppaMedia No please! Your email isn’t showing. Only your TH-cam link is showing youtube.com/@grasshoppaMedia?si=HmgKBgPygn5vjad6 I’m watching the two videos you just recommended, for more insight

Fantastic! Glad to share the news.

I do not have a Facebook page. If you go to the grass.hoppa.Media TH-cam channel/(or click my picture) and click "more about this channel" or click the arrow at the end of "Slit Lamp refurbishing procedures/techniques" , you should be able to find the view email address. Hope that helps. I am glad you are finding help in the videos.

Both of those slit lamps have their internal challenges, so I would say they are both delicate, simple, yet complex. Care must be taken for both when servicing internally.

What I meant to say was "You shouldn't need any parts but I will 'show' you the part numbers on that copy I have in front of me just in case you wanted the part numbers". I'm sorry for the confusion. Go to "grass.hoppa.Media" on TH-cam. Click on "More about this Channel"or "Slit Lamp refurbishing..." Clicking "About", you should be able to see my email address.

Have you viewed the other videos of the SL-120? They might be helpful. Let me know if they answered your question.

The number I have for the 3E/7E spring is: #4467026900 -"Spring Sub Assembly" ( this is the narrow spring/clip older style). The number I have for the D7/8Z spring is: #4477025200 - "Bulb Cap Spring" (this is a wider spring clip newer style). Hope these are correct!

Thanks Hop. I called Topcon today, they don't support the 7E any longer supposedly. I may give them another ring with your part number and see if something sticks. Appreciate the help. I can do some aftermarket parts thing with different bulbholder, cap, and maybe even reflection lens (plus wire connection), but don't like to be the "boutique" repair person unless it's worth my while.

Zeiss has a special cleaner that looks like window cleaner but it is not the same. Be very careful about using window cleaner. Try to determine if the fungal growth is on the eyepieces or on the inside of the binocular head rotating barrel. Turning the eyepiece (both the outer scale cylinder and the inner cylinder) will help you determine if it is on the eyepiece or not. If it does not move, it may be inside the eyepiece and may be difficult to take the eyepiece apart. If you take your eyepiece out and shine a light in your binocular head, you can determine if the growth is on the lens of the rotating barrel. Make sure the large outer lens/glass on the patient side is clean also. I hope this might help you in some way...<><

Good reminder, thanks!

I'm sorry, we wouldn't have any extra Haag-Streit microscope arms to sell. Perhaps you could find a parts slit lamp on Ebay. They are pretty standard for the omnidirectional joystick BM's. The reach-forward type are different and are not interchangeable with the omnidirectional style microscope arms.

There are 2 videos of the SL120/130 that might help you connect the double vision problem. Check the playlist... For the Convergent: th-cam.com/video/8HG1mlYsZzw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=or712QaD8b3jww5i "Zeiss SL120/130 Binocular Head Alignment Part 1 Convergent". For the parallel: th-cam.com/video/G1o0jbTYqf8/w-d-xo.html "Zeiss SL120/130 Binocular Head Alignment Part 2: Parallel Hope these help.

We don't mess with Burton's at all ☺. How old is it?

@@grasshoppaMedia no clue haha

Can you determine what model it is?

Hope it helps! It was a challenge. Got help from my Father in heaven, as in all my attempts to do anything on my cars.☺

I think you could figure it out if you took apart what you could and examined how it works. That's how I would probably go about it. ☺

Good idea! It seems like a design flaw but if you only use it once in a while, it may last... but after 20 years.... Thanks for your suggestion!

I'm sorry, but the BQ is much different than the BC/BD slit lamp. So if I understand your question, I believe answer is no. But, try it. You might find a way to make it work. ☺ Update: Your question got me curious so I checked it out and found that not only is the hole pattern different but the screw diameter and alignment is different. It would take some creative ingenuity to make a BQ/BM lens and socket assy work on the BC. That's why you can't upgrade a BC/BD to a LED with a kit. Nothing lines up. Haag-Streit would have to develop some kind of adapter or develop a whole new LED kit to convert to LED. They probably wouldn't consider it due to the variety of other options they offer. Sorry.☻

I will try. Email me.

Takagi Marco seems to put a lot of grease on their axle & axle bearings. I would try to place the base on a ledge so that you can spin the axle without touching anything and then keep wiping and spinning the axle moving it left/right while spinning and continuing to wipe the axle clean until it has no grease residue left on it. Next I would make sure the joystick pad was clean and then rub a light viscosity grease on the pad, and then try to wipe it all off, which actually leaves a slight film, which is what you want. Do the same with the bottom of the joystick. These steps usually ensure a free left/right /forward/reverse movement. Hope that helps. ☺

Yes, sometimes they seem impossible to unscrew and I have messed them up more by trying.☺ If they don't unscrew, I just leave them. It seems like it does not make much difference to try to clean the inside of the rear lens anyway. If it looks foggy looking through your binoculars, the real issue is probably the inside prism assembly needs to be cleaned. See video: "Haag-Streit Binocular Head Defogging Cloudy refurb procedure". Hope that helps. But the 10X are on the BM. The BQ's are 12.5.

If you are talking about this model G2/G4 Ultra, there is a 16 minute video "TAKAGI Marco G2 Ultra Slit Lamp common refurb issues" that explains the cam gear mechanism that is probably the issue (starting at 4:10). Watch the video a few times and determine if you have the ability to attempt it. Hope that helps.☺