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No. Just one battery is enough. I don’t want to add all the wiring and weight. When this battery dies, I might upgrade to a better battery though.

Just a lil’ bit lol

As of right now, none of really know what the cause is. I still need to find time to take my car to a shop and get it properly Dx’d. But my bucking might be different than yours. 🤷‍♂️

Good stuff! I’ve had tob/slave failures on one of my DKM Stage 2, Southbend Stage 3 Endurance, and XClutch Stage 2 clutches. All of them were SMF. I decided to go back to DMF with the Sachs Performance Kit. I’ve put 20k miles on this clutch kit so far with no issues. Hoping it lasts another 40k+ miles. We will see.

@@JacesOwnWorld I hope my SBC Stage 2 daily doesn't end up with leaking TOB/Slave failure.... because it is SMF :|

@pravsajeeth4631 Let’s hope not 🤞

Thanks 🤙

No problem

Nice. How long did it take VW to do the job?

@@JacesOwnWorld paper work said 1 hour. But I had 2 other recalls that had to get done on it. They had the car for 5 hours though.

I just had my suction jet replaced this weekend. I was also having rough idle. Logs indicate misfires on cylinder 2 when the evap system was puring. I drove to work today and logged misfires and things have improved significantly. I'm still logging data but I think this might have been the solution to my evap misfire issue!

@HostileMAV Good to hear!

Thanks bro! So my car was riding super low in that quick vid and thumbnail because the entire car was packed full of stuff. It doesn’t ride that low normally. I run EMD springs and Koni Yellow sport struts/dampers.

@@JacesOwnWorld i was about to say dammm how is it so low🤣🤣 thanks for clarifying. Looking good man

@roymartinez25 haha. It definitely was harsher over bumps with the car loaded so much. Thanks!

Lol I did in this video. I never put it in reverse gear. You can access the back up camera in a little slot in the 6spd manuals. This slot is right before putting it in reverse gear. So essentially, it’s still in neutral, but it’s in the reverse camera slot. VW made it like this so that you can put the shifter into this slot and be able to access the back up camera outside of the car if you need to clean it or work on it.

So I’ve actually taken my SAI pump and all its hoses out of the car, and put a bleeder block in place of it. I know it isn’t the culprit of any of the bucking symptoms on my GTI because the car was bucking before I removed it, and still bucks after. As far as my misfires/hesitation on a cold engine were concerned, that has been fixed. That was due to my WMI nozzle leaking methanol overnight into my charge pipe. I’ve removed the fuse to the WMI pump, and now since the methanol doesn’t leak, that has gone away.

I’m not following you. What is the “T”? I’ve replaced everything in the clutch system including the clutch itself, slave/tob, bleeder block, bleeder block line, clutch master cylinder, brake fluid, SSK, and shifter knob.

@@JacesOwnWorld the bleeder valve Looks like a at

Yes I’ve replaced the bleeder block

@@JacesOwnWorld So far i have a new master , new blender and entire new clutch and it’s not bleeding just clutch pedal to stay . Ones over night and try the next day it back down Won’t let me out in heat while car is running. I bleed it 6 times even gravity bleed still no luck Could it be a brand new slave that was just installed could have gone bad. The new clutch kit is t even 4 months old

@hdot2024 it’s hard to say but it definitely is possible. There are others who installed new clutch kits and tob/slave, and when they began bleeding the clutch, it wouldn’t bleed correctly. They found out their tob/slave were faulty from the get-go.

Symptoms are: 1. Not being able to fill your gas tank fully at the gas station pump. 2. Leaking fuel from overflow in the EVAP canister. 3. Fuel odors You do not have to have any symptoms for this recall to be completed by VW. As long as you got your second notice in the mail, set an appt up for VW to replace the suction jet pump. They have to do it for free.

For some reason my car has always had a shitty idle. Like a miss or it wanted to cut off. Got worse over the past year. Just had this replaced yesterday and the car idles very smooth now. Not sure how this effected idle but it did.

Cool. Thanks for watching

I appreciate you giving me this info, but I’m a little weary to try this method out. Reasons: 1. You say you symptoms are 95% gone. That tells me the symptoms haven’t been fixed and that this method of yours only semi-fixed it. I’m looking for the actual solution. Me disconnecting a connector is already a semi-fix, and the car drives perfectly fine with the plug disconnected. It just throws a CEL. 2. It doesn’t really sound like a solution. I’m not trying to be mean, I’m just saying. Do you have any sort of data concluding you pumping your clutch that many times has been a solution, or could it just be happenstance that your car semi-fixed itself in-between you doing that? 3. As many TOB/slaves on this clutch system I’ve gone through with this car, the last thing I want to do is put extra pressure on the TOB/slave pumping the pedal that many times. I just don’t have faith in the engineering or the longevity of the TOB/slave, and due to that, my desire to pump it 100 times is just not there. If I knew there was data connecting what you are saying and a permanent fix, then I would do it. But because there isn’t, I’m going to shy away from it. Like I said, I do appreciate you trying to help out. I really do feel that the solution is electrical, as I’ve had a few things happen on the car that point to it being electrical. But my bucking might be completely different than yours. Also, the misfiring/sputtering on a cold engine and first drive have gone away, and the solution I found was that it was related to my WMI system. There was methanol dripping into my charge pipe (where the WMI nozzle is located) from the nozzle overnight. This was putting excess methanol sitting in the charge pipe overnight and creating misfires/sputtering when I drove on a cold engine. Once that methanol was atomized into the engine, the sputtering/misfiring would go away. To fix that I just disconnected the fuse to my WMI pump, and since then, I haven’t had any misfires/sputtering at all. So once again, issue related to me modding my car lol.

Fair points and I do hear what you’re saying completely about semi-fixes, I’ve found many of those and was never content with any of them (too long of a list to mention in detail here but it’s all on the forums), but none of them have been this good and seemingly permanent. that’s why I’m going to continue to advertise it here until I run into a problem with it or find something better Agree. We could have two different issues, or a different set of issues to be completely thorough about it. I do want to hear what you come back with as, you may actually stumble upon something that is the root cause for all of us. And by the way, I have only been enjoying a smooth drive for just a few months, I don’t know yet how it will behave when the temperature drops as we move into the fall here in NE Although I’m always one to take measurements and provide data for the community as I typically do on the forums for example when troubleshooting the issue we’re discussing, there’s nothing I’m going to be able to measure for you unfortunately. Some things just work, and the problem never comes back so I can’t demonstrate with pre/post data points. Unplugging and plugging connectors never a permanent solution for me, the issues would come back Pumping the clutch pedal could be all you need to get your car running better than ever, you aren’t putting any more stress on your TOB or anything down the line than you would shifting to get home from the grocery store. It’s the movement of the pedal in quick succession that I think might make the difference. The fact that you have been taking off your clutch system and TOB’s and clutches and so forth, just makes me wonder even more about how my suggestion might actually apply to you, clutch positions sensors are involved here and aren’t easy (or possible with my logging devices) to log or I might’ve had that data for you by now 😂😂😂

Haha yeah that’s a bit far

Nice! So are they providing you with a vehicle rental?

Same! I just received it today and will be posting a video about it tomorrow

Awesome! I absolutely love this setup! Best daily street setup by far!!

No problem! Thanks for watching!

Doesn’t hurt to get it tested

New suction jet pump fixed the gas pump fill up issue. I switched my tune to an OTS tune, and that got rid of the bucking for some reason I don’t know why. Everything is working great but found out I need a new alternator.

Yeah who knows 🤷‍♂️

I never got a second notice in the mail but I went on my insurance app and it took me to Carfax and it said the parts were ready

Good to hear. Thanks for your feedback. It’s so weird how the N80 valve unplugged “fixes” it.

It’s possible. That could also be related to your fuel level float that’s on your LPFP. You sure your gauge is reading properly?

@@JacesOwnWorld eh who know now adays haha. GoodSpeed Performance tuned my mk7

Haha. It’s a guessing game

Haha. True, but the important thing is that the GTI still runs very strong at almost 180k miles, and has ran over double its stock power its entire life. Not sure if you could say the same about Toyota or Honda 🤷‍♂️

Hmmm, that’s very interesting. Why did you need a trans swap? Was there anything done to the trans you swapped in? What kind of clutch are you running? Pumping the clutch 100+ times is crazy lol. There has to be something more serious wrong with your trans/clutch if you have to do that. Weird. So in hot weather, after you pump the clutch 100+ times, it bucks less? I believe I’m the only one making videos regarding this issue. Tbh, if you have to resort to pumping your clutch 100+ times, then I would say your bucking issues hasn’t been solved yet. But at least it’s a remedy in the meantime.

I agree, it’s so interesting, I have done so many things like you like upgraded my engine trans and dogbone mounts, tried throttle body resets. Nothing worked as a permanent fix. I definitely learned more about cars than I originally planned, hey, that’s cool I’ll take it. Everything you described in your first video about the bucking was spot on, exactly the same issue I was experiencing, down to ever details. I was listening to you describe it while eating dinner and was like, “holy shit someone else on planet earth has this issue too!” Pumping the clutch 100 times really fast was just a one time thing. I don’t pump the clutch on a daily basis. And the effects have lasted. Again I am really shocked about this to be quite honest. You may be right in that there may be still an underlying problem. Others on forums have helped brainstorm on this, with ideas like the trans input shaft having issues or TOB gone bad causing clutch to get stuck etc, but it’s a bit of a money pit right now so I can’t pursue those things as I’m not able to take down my trans myself and I’d rather keep the shop away from my car before they cause another problem and charge me for it 😂😂😂 Clutch is Southbend stage 3 daily. My tune is EQT stage 2. And, The trans was swapped because I blew the synchro on 4th gear when driving with the pop tune still on, learned my lesson to not drive with the pops on ever again. The trans swapped in was used but with fewer miles than my car. It’s been 70-95F degrees around here. Very minimal bucking. Unbelievable the improvement I’ve achieved by doing this simple trick.

It was just the cap. New cap installed and fixed everything. Glad it wasn’t anything serious 😬.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, that’s probably a good idea

Razor blade

@@JacesOwnWorld gotcha!!! Thanks bro!!!

I personally wouldn’t drive it because external fuel leaks can be very serious. But I know others do. It’s up to your discretion. Here is the part: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/suction-pump/5q0201029/ My recommendation is to order this part. It’s not the latest recall, but it will work regardless. I installed this part and I still plan on taking it in to VW when the newest update becomes available. I’m hoping they replace more things for free too, such as the gas tank, fuel lines, evap canister, etc. Time will tell.

@@JacesOwnWorld thank you man appreciate it.

No problem. Haha thanks!

Thanks!

That’s perfectly normal. That means your gas tank is being pressurized correctly. Nothing to worry about there.