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@@paulscott5554 Office Depot Is where I purchased mine. You may also find it online.

Can breeding size?

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto yes sir when there was start breeding at which size

@@zahedabegum5235 about 1 year and 6”

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto ok thanks u sir

@@zahedabegum5235 No shipping outside The United States.

@@zahedabegum5235 6-8”

@@bradb3245 I would separate them if you have room?

th-cam.com/video/P4DAI9uhIBI/w-d-xo.html This should help!

Nice BD! Any videos with measurements? 😅

@@markbaumgardt2868 Amen!

@@jtkeepingfish I don’t understand the question? Can you be more specific about water, hardness, and pH?

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto so my tapwater ph is around 8 - 8,5 which is rather high. And water hardness also high, not sure on what the number is exactly. And so they will breed for me in tapwater however my eggs would calcify each time, and not because they weren’t fertilised. Because I know my male is fertile. So that’s why I use the RO water to mix with the tap water to make the TDS around 75-100. So basically asking what you think of that and or if you have had experience with breeding discus on tapwater that has high ph and hardness etc.

@@jtkeepingfish your water parameters are almost exactly the same as mine. My suggestion is you don’t chase water parameters and your water hardness. There’s nothing you can do except for go with RO. I have seen water parameters worse than yours and they were still able to breed discus fish. What I would suggest obviously is an empty tank void of any rock wood anything except for a ceramic slate. If your water hardness is where it’s at and you’re getting calcification on what you believe, are fertile eggs, then you need to figure out a way to soften that water and I don’t know a way in which you can do that without going with RO

@@aaronrobert7196 I have 5 Mating pair of Discus. All Have Produced 75-120 Fry that have grown into adults. Water conditions are Important as far as water being Clean, but you do not have to chase Ph etc. stability is the most Important factor. As far as My using White Corrugated Plastic inserts it is something that works for me. It is easy to clean by removing for a few minutes and does not require you to paint your tank. I know large scale Discus breeding operations that all use a white out technique of some kind so the young can find the parents. Daily Water changes are your best friend if you have a very efficient system in place that does not stress the parents or fry. I agree with most of what you say, but my way is proven as well. By the way my Ph in all my tanks is just over 8.5.

@@longbizzle77 you should be fine!

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto Glad to hear it! I'd be disappointed if I had hurt the little guys because I didn't know more when I bought them. So far they seem to be adjusting to the new tank ok. Subbed!

Are you still offering one on one services? I have a few issues that I need to get worked out. Let me know. Thanks.

20 Gallon Minimum. I have had 2 very young Discus in a 0 to get them to grow., but not 5

@@sopbape8120 flubendazole

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto how should I dose it? And can it be dangerous for my discus? Does it work for gill fluke and stuff? How much water should I change after using it, and is potassium permanganate also a good or do you not recommend it

@@sopbape8120 it would be a last resort for me with young Discus Fish . What is the main issue and what have you tried?

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto hi I'm just a starting discus breeding hobbyist I'm not really doing this to sell and I've only ever reached the wiggler stage and just want to get information about keeping them safe. But I would like these guys to survive and grow them out, that's why I'm just asking because I've seen videos of people using potassium permanganate to treat their fish, right now I've gotten a batch to the wiggler stage which is pretty exciting but would like to know what to do in terms of medicine to avoid that 30 days syndrome

@@sopbape8120 As I said Flubendazole has worked for me. You have to be careful with any medication when it comes to young Discus Fish. The first most important thing to keep your young Discus fry from getting sick is making sure everything you use is kept extremely clean. That means using nothing but hot water no detergents cleaners of any kind but extremely hot water to make sure that everything is sanitized. When it comes to the medications, use them sparingly and make sure that you are giving a dose that is not lethal to these fry. Flubendazole is much safer than potassium Permanganate. You must be an extremely experienced discus breeder to use that medication. If you do one thing wrong, you will wipe out your whole tank, including the parents. That is a drug you can buy from Gabe Posada at Wattley Discus but he will tell you that if you don’t know what you’re doing to stay away from trying to use it. I have had several spawns of discus fry that I have never used any medication on because I kept things so sanitary. This may be something you try. Medication’s are always risky. I have given you the name of the drug that I have used and if you want to try it, I would make sure that you were extremely careful on how you administer. If you go to Wattley Discus Miami, Florida, look at their medication sheets they will give you some ideas on how to use these medications. I don’t like to push medication‘s on anyone who is trying to breed discus, there are just too many risk and I do not want to be held responsible for you making a bad decision or giving a dose that is not correct so what I would tell you is that I would get a little more perspective from someone who has a better sense of how to administer And that would be Gabe Posada. Gabe will technically answer the phone if you look him up on the Internet that number goes directly to him just tell him George Wheeler sent you from aquatic concepts and he will give you any information you need on that 30 day syndrome that you are so concerned aboutagain, I don’t recommend any drugs but if you think you have to investigate it more before you make that move I hope this was helpful. Also I do offer my personal assistance for a small fee that we can discuss. This gives you up to 10- 15 minute sessions with me. Call me now at 800-566-2647. I am available this afternoon.

@@martyborst5645 I hope you are recovering nicely Marty! If you need anything let me know?

@@ebikesandthings wow! That has not been my experience unless they have changed the way they ship? I also know that their people are very good about these kinds of things if you contact them. I am sorry that was your experience. Again, I have many tanks by them and never once I’ve had any issues that have not been resolved reasonably. The last tank that I purchased from water box was about a year ago so they may have some changes in the way they ship. I can’t imagine they would change to something less secure, but who really knows. Again I am sorry to hear about that.

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto yes they are handing it very well and great service. But at same time they don’t fill in the empty space with foam so both tanks came cracked. We will see about the third tank next week.

@@ebikesandthings like I said, I have never had that happen to me before with waterbox

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto That’s good! I just have bad luck.

@@TheBarrios69 I agree with that. I sometimes watch the fish for a few hours and then add a small amount of flake. But certainly 24 hours is reasonable. You don’t want to follow your tank water up with food that goes on eaten. Is this a community tank? That has a lot of other fish? Anyway, good luck and if you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me.

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto I have two other little fish inside. I will wait out the 24 hours till I try to feed them. Thank you for replying.

@@Charmander4962 I have not kept many Swordtails, but typically the female will really get frontside heavy!

That is an Otocinclus which do very well in a established tank where there is a consistent amount of Algae. They also do better in larger schools of maybe 5-10 in a tank this size. Make sure when you buy them that you have looked at the fish closely to make sure they have nice round bellies. This is important because a thin fish means they are not getting feed well enough and may not be in good shape. Once they get that skinny look they have a lass likely chance of survival.

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto thanks. I appreciate it!!!!

@@Kdot_osrs females when mature are less colorful and slightly larger

@@Smallfish16 call Gabe With Wattley Discus and tell him George Wheeler from Aquatic Concepts sent you. He is the only one I know Who have The never pepper varieties. I believe he has three of the lighter color that he had bred to not pepper. They are beautiful fish.

@@asheraley779 clean water should be a part of your daily routine’s. I change water 25% daily in many of my High end tanks and twice a week on my Non Discus and Angelfish tanks. I agree many of these species are found in areas where millions of gallons of clean water is turned over every hour or day. I mention this in many of my videos. Thank you for the excellent comment. I hope you will both Like and Subscribe. New subscribers are entered into my latest giveaway a $200.00 Visa Gift card when we reach 20,000 subscribers.

@@andikasgk7 use as instructed for the best result

@@mm89_ New rules on TH-cam about copyright music. I am working on getting more free music. Sorry!

@@Dr.Proxxy I use 20 -29 Gallon tanks depending on the size of the fish

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto do you recommend 20s or 30s for discus

@@Dr.Proxxy it depends how big your discus fish are. If they are 6 inches or over I recommend a 30. If they are smaller than that, I recommend a 20 both will work either way. Some believe that the smaller tank the better for raising the fry.

@@aquaticconceptsbringingwaterto thank you!