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Thanks for your video it's been really helpful, my thermal fuse blew and I was able to replace it fine all other fuses are good but my remote still won't light up is there anything else I should check or would I just be best buying a new one?

Many thanks,it's still going strong,Gets used by me only twice a week now.

This looks like the type of washing machine Wallace & Gromit might have. Just fantastic, thank you for sharing sir.

You could try ,where the burnt track is to lightly sand the area and buy some silver loaded special paint for use with car heated rear screen repair.It is on the underside of the glass tray so should not cause a safety issue .It's worth a try to save £200 for a replacement draw element

I think the newer board is more reliable. And I have not found the lower value capacitor to be at fault, but please let me know if you have fixed it .The flashing led can be caused by a faulty 'kettle type connector' becoming intermittent or an open circuit of the bonded element on the botton draw glass base .You can check its resistance and should be about 200 ohms😅 I hope this helps

Hello Brian, on this new board, the grey capacitor is an MKP Film Capacitor made by Vishay. A suitable replacement which can be ordered is BFC233911104 from Farnell. I am trying to fix my newer power control board. Let's see if that works or not. This capacitor is a 100nF == 0.1uF, 310V device, X2 rated, 10% tolerance.

That's quite rare to have the element bonded to the draw glass base go open circuit.Just check the resistance of the element at the point where it is bonded and where the two brown wires are terminated, just to make sure the two crimped spade connectors are sound .If it's o/c at the element to wire ends then the element is definitely open circuit.(o/c).I hope this helps.Cheers Brian

Hi Brian. Great video and excellent explanations. I have a Siemens drawer with the same motherboard. I have replaced the same capacitor that you did but I am still getting the flashing blue light and wondered what you would suggest as a next step? Thanks.

Just want to thank you for your detailed instructional video. Our NEFF Warmer oven failed last weekend. I followed your instructions and replaced the Capacitor. Replacement Control Panel from NEFF in Australia is $382.47. That is without call out fee and labour charges. New capacitor from Jaycar was $4.25 (Got the 310 Volt). All reassembled and working fine. Thanks again.

Hi Brian. I do have a BOSCH warming drawer which I assume is the same manufacture. However the capacitor is labeled 100n K, so this would be 0.1yF. Also the design of the electronic board is a litte different (especially the switch). I will replace the capacitor as you did but using the 0.1 yF and see if that works. Thanks for your video.

Many thanks,well done.😅

Worked a treat. £1.20 (+£3.50 postage) for the capacitor. Got a friend to solder it.

Hi George, I'm glad to hear you have repaired the module. Cheers Brian

Hi Brian, thanks a lot for your help. I managed to repair a Siemens drawer. You made my day.

Many thanks David for your success and well done.Feedback to me has exposed the weakness in the original design choice of voltage 275 volts a/c and mine of 305volts a/c.im so glad you found the video usefull.Cheers Brian

Brian, Many thanks for this video. One of our Siemens drawers broke 18 months ago and I was unable to find a fix on the internet, your video showed me where the board was and able to remove in minutes by leaving the drawers in place enabling me to quickly swap boards and confirm one board was faulty. Ordered the part from your link and both drawers now fully working saving over £200 if I ordered a new board from Siemens.

Hi Rock ,No it will not gush out just a small amount of water less than an egg cup .The Spindle will self seal once you remove the old seal but will just weep a little,just put a towel around the 15mm feed pipe and you will be fine .Cheers Brian

Hi Brian, my valve is weeping.. If I remove this seal will all the water shoot out of the valve?

Dear Lord Dos,I'm so pleased you have repaired the module,well done and a lot of money saved ..Many thanks for you comments.Cheers Brian

Hello Brian. A big thank from me. What a brilliant and informative video. The capacitor arrived this morning and I replaced the old one. Hey presto! The warming drawer now works again. You're an absolute star! Alun

Ok thanks

The 105 usually relates to working temperature 105c ,the original is only 85 c . Did you manage to check the capacitance of the one you replaced .?

Thanks Brian sorry to be thick but when you say lead pitch is that the distance of the silver prongs that go through board. The size is identical but it’s just it has 105 instead of 110 on the side . I have put in and soldered up but I still get a flashing light when re assembled , I’m guessing it does not matter which way round the capacitor goes . I’m just clutching at straws or maybe it’s another fault with mine

Hi Brian , could I ask a question as I ordered a new one from a guy in Bristol but the only part number I could find on eBay was B32924C3105M It was slightly different number to yours . ( B32922C3105M) It came but the numbers 40/110/56/B Where 40/105/56/B instead everything else was identical to yours . My question is would the 105 make any difference than the 110 , as the guy selling from Bristol did not know what the numbers mentioned ment . Thanks for your help with this

Hi, I've just come across your video after searching for possible solutions to my failed NEFF warming drawer. Mine isn't heating at all, and the fan/element are not operating. The red light stays on for a few seconds then blinks. I've changed the power connector at the rear already, so I know it's not a faulty connection. My board looks different to yours, and the capacitor has 100n K 310v X2 339 MKP L2147 stamped on the side. I'm not sure what I'm searching for in a replacement, so any advice would be gratefully received.

Brilliant. Saved £160. It was the capacitor 1uF down to 0.26uF. Would be good to know where to source it but I found one that would do!

FYI - In case of a combi boiler, if you see the pressure drop even after topping up say in 15 days or a month, then its a leak in the system and the gland seal in Drayton TRV 4's is "generally" the root cause. Just in case you dont have the seals on hand, Teflon tape on the gland seal can arrest the flow to NO leak, stop gap arrangement. Cheers

Many thanks I hope so .Be very careful when removing the old capacitor because the leads of the capacitor are soldered through the multi layered printed circuit board and you should use a vacuum de-soldering iron or wick braid. .Cheers Brian

Hi great video thanks. can you let me know where you purchased this capacitor from as they seem to come in different sizes, and I’m struggling to find. A good source .

Very BAD

A really interesting and evidence that they don't make domestic appliances like they used too. Long live the old and well designed units

We had a LAVAMAT Princess-S automatic washer from 1972 to 1993. It ran non-stop every Saturday from morning till evening during that time washing laundry for a family of 6. Dad and I were handy at DIY and replaced its timer, suds pump and 3 sets of drum bearings during its life. Built like a tank with a stainless steel outer drum and hefty drum carrier and bearings. It had a strange double wound induction motor with separate windings for wash & spin speeds. I remember the 'screech' at the end of every spin cycle where the motor acted as a brake. What done for it in the end was the failure of the motor's wash speed winding. My local motor rewinder could not do anything due to the unusual motor design. We also had a companion AEG Minerva-25 tumble dryer from 1972 till 2003! I got its motor rewound in 1987 and replaced the heating element during its life. Cut my teeth in my early years in my first job as a Nilfisk repair technician repairing their quality cleaning equipment (have a 48 year old Nilfisk vacuum cleaner that runs perfectly). Also had a summer job with Kevlins, Hammersmith, London, refurbing well-made Hoover washers and vacuums. So much greenwashing today re. appliances but back then, appliances were truly 'green' - i.e. they were built to last, could be easily stripped down and designed to be repaired for a long service life. Today, even the premium brands are just re-badged cheap rubbish sporting silly 'green' features like low temp 'economy' wash cycles, bluetooth connectivity and 'delayed start' timers, yet incorporating built in obsolescence like one-piece outer drums, unavailable or silly-priced spares and fragile electronics. Nice to hear your story of a well built machine! We need to go back to building this type of stuff to save our planet.

Hi Brian, great video, very helpful and well explained, I agree with your comments about capacitors in this elevated temperature environment. Keep up the good work.

Many thanks for your feedback Colin and splendid for Christmas.Cheers Brian

Thanks Brian. Symptom and resolution applied to our Bosch HSC140652B/10 now back in working order in time for Christmas.

Great solution I even managed to replace the capacitor myself and so far problem of flashing light on setting 4 has been solved ... £3.99 repair.

Yes years ago the aeg was manufactured in Germany, and then when Electrolux bought them out they went down hill and were being g sold by every down market sellers like Comet.Then they disappeared.but electrolux has retained the AEG badge but they are not designed to be repaired easily😂Thanks for your comments.

i had a A.E.G set cost me over 2k lasted six months both washer and dryer that was five years ago , wish i could have got what u got, now got ASKO

Yes it's working perfectly .I did a white hot wash this morning and all fine .Many thanks for your interest.Cheers Brian.

Does it still work now?

Brilliant .You can setup shop now and use the spare capacitors.I have an account with RS but we're out of Stock when I ordered .Many thanks for letting me know.Just in time for Christmas.

Brilliant video, I was able to fix our Neff warning draw with exactly the same capacitor that you recommended. I had to buy a pack of 10 from Radio Spares but it was fixed for less than £8. Thanks again

Hi Trevor.,I think your model being the later design of the module would not be the 0.1uf.Have you measured the capacitor value?. If it has lost its value then go for it and replace it.The tolerance of +/- 20% could be a problem but only if its lower in value.I hope this helps .Cheers Brian.

Hi Brian, thanks for the very comprehensive video and explanation of the possible fault with the warming drawer. The problem I am having is sourcing the correct replacement capacitor . Mine is a Bosch warming drawer and the capacitor is a Vishay 100nK 310v~x2, 339 MKP and a code of F1028. There is a B32922C3104M Epcos Capacitor, Class X2, 0.10Uf, 305Vac on pcarena-bristol site however this is rated at +/- 20% so I'm unsure if suitable. Could you advice if there is a better option available . many thanks Trev.

Many thanks Richard .Yes the desolder iron is a must with multi layer plated through hole pcb's.

Hi there Brian, an excellent video, thank you for taking the time to produce. I changed the capacitor exactly as you stated and with an uprated one too but unfortunately the fault still exists. The red light stays on for about 20secs then flashes and the warming drawer does not get warm. Do you have any idea what else may be the problem and what I could check please? Thank you. Richard

My pin seems to be stuck down any suggestions now to get it but up ?

Many thanks ,I'm so pleased and thanks for letting me know.Cheers Brisn

Hello Brian, a big thank you from another happy person here. Your suggested fix worked a treat. Warming drawer fixed at working ready for its Christmas duties! Thanks

Many thanks Yes I need new reading .😂 glasses