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No it's coming soon just changing some things but it is definitely a longer process than I originally thought.

I had the same thought but as far as I can tell there is no way to limit the amp draw it's more to do with the motor kv it's important to check the max amp of the motor some can go higher than mine but I can also play with different props to bring the amps down if needed.

Usually you can modify the voltage, on the controller. Don't you see any settings on the Flipsky remote to reduce the top throttle voltage or similar going back to the ESC?

Yeah the 8awg wire is for the phase motor wires it's fine for the battery wires because they are short but I might need to go to maybe 6awg eventually for the phase but for now I am trying to get the amps even lower so will keep an eye on the temps obviously.

@@thewaysider7774 hope you are not planning on increasing the voltage from 12s. There's a reason some areas like the US has standards on keeping voltage in marine environments below 50v. It gets real easy to kill oneself.

@@NavalTechTinkerer no i am not going more than 12s

Hi there I am now running on 12s. Check out the latest video to see the test. It's still pulling some amps around 160 but it's all trial and error

@@thewaysider7774 if it's a VESC it should be damn easy to set params correctly. Or are you controlling max speed by reducing input voltage from receiver to the ESC?

@@NavalTechTinkerer yeah i have got 3 speed modes on the controller but havent played with that yet will see if the amps go down in a different mode. The esc are just set to 12s not much i can change except the timing which is on 0 degree's.

Cheers

Hi I need to start a thingyverse. What part are you looking for?

Hey cheers how many capacitor's do you think would be good?

Hi thanks for the ideas. For now I will do whatever is best after more testing, maybe higher amp motors but lower kv I have alot more I can try with my jetdrives.as when I printed them I didn't really know what size I should make youngster is on a 60mm impeller so I will try some stuff out cheers.

Hi I hear you on the prop pitch it's just the file I modified was from thingyverse and couldn't change everything I wanted. What if I came down In size from a 64mm to a 60mm for example ? Or smaller if needed. And also I have a 45 mm jet nozzle opening would making that bigger help? Thanks for all the advise will look into the voltage cut thing also.

@@thewaysider7774 you can't reduce the diameter of the impeller, gaps between the edge of the impeller and jet wall will crater the efficiency and thrust. A quick workaround for you might be to take that file and put it back in your slicer then scale only the Z dimension smaller. Will basically be trial and error for how much but should work. I wouldn't recommend enlarging the exit nozzle until you work on the impeller. You will significantly reduce the exit velocity of the jet.

@@Koolzr01 yeah cheers i also made a wear ring as i downsized the impeller once already, i made a video on it. I can make the ring smaller also to fit the new impeller but i will design a new impeller eventually now i've made it easier to come off the shaft. From my research the nozzel opening has a similer effect to pitch of prop but there is a balance to be had of course. My idea is to make the jetdrives new out of p.e.t. cf plastic once i know the correct size ecetera. then i can share the files. Thanks again for your help am taking on board all the advise.

Cheers it feels good just some kinks to work out

Thanks man me too

Cheers man

Yeah eventually will look into changing motors if i have too but you know its another bunch of money.

Can't do compromises such as Close to the Goal

Anything marine shouldn't be over 50v. When you go over that you are seriously making it easier to die from being electrocuted. I built a 20S pack and I'm pulling that down to two 10S now and then upward 12S later. But no hobby is worth potentially dying from.

Hi I found the thrusters on thingyverse but they don't seem to be on there anymore.i re-dresigned the nozzel's to change the size a little and the prop's you can still find on thingyverse but there are other jet drives worth looking at on the site, you will just have to upscale in a slicer before printing. For me I am running around a 64mm prop at the moment but can change later if need be. For the moment I am happy with the new esc's but not sure untill I do more testing about the power it seems ok but will try 44 volts soon.

Hey there now it seems to work well the next test or ride should be fairly quick to do. I have seen the channel you are on about and he is good, it gave me the idea in the first place. He ran his on 6s in the beginning so am going to try that first that way i can really feel the difference going to 12s all be it i will lose run time. Thanks for checking in .

@@thewaysider7774 I will keep an eye out for next video, thanks for posting.

Hi thanks for the info. How do you come up with the kw needed i suppose i could google it but might as well ask.

@@thewaysider7774 most professional boards advertise at 10kw plus. I tried on my second board with battery half charged and did not get on plane (approx 7.5kw). Next run where fully charged I did get on plane (approx 9.2 kw)

@@Koolzr01 OK cool i will try it all, next up i want to try a traction test just waiting for the scale to arrive and i did a calculation each motor at 150amp is giving 3.3kw at 22v so 6.6kw in total. 150 amp is the rating for the motor so i will have to go to 44v i think.

@@thewaysider7774 if you're saying 2 motors at 44.4v x150 amps that's 13kw. That thing should rip! Can't wait to see the video!

@@Koolzr01 hey i will be a little more consevative with the amps because the motor's max out at 150 so around 149.9 should be great. only joking it hopfully will be fast we will see.

Hey there. 100amp is nothing the cables should be more than enough , also as I up the voltage the amps should go down but I will keep an eye on everything. The other reason I am going to run 12s is I can put 2 of my 6s in series but will lose running time. Thanks for the comments we will see together how this thing turn's out.

Hi there I used cura before I chose creality print because the printer profile was in there. Will try cura again because it is a more pro slicer I feel. Is there a profile for the ke yet? Let me know and will give it a shot. Thanks for the comments.

Hey dude I just bought two new esc's 300amp 14s so now I can go 12s will try 6s but I have the option. Next video I will show you what I've been up too and thanks for the info am glad to help if you have any questions in the future. It's a learning curve but a fun one 👍

@@thewaysider7774 indeed it is fun :) two 300A escs... Jesus. That would allow for 30kw at 50v. Does your batteries, motors, and cables hold up to that? Wouldn't 100A +120A peak be enough?

@@NavalTechTinkerer As far as i understand the more the better when it comes to amps but keeping the weight down as much as possible.i should be getting no more than 150-180amps or so per side, the other thing is that the 200amp-250 esc's i have looked at don't let me use 12s so i went with the one's the guy had that was also not far from where i live, they are the ztw g2 300amp 14s so room to grow if needed i just want to get rid of that stutter at full throttle. and have upgraded all connections to the Qs10 connector's much bigger than the xt 90. i will show it all in the next video.

@@thewaysider7774 cool - any reason you did not go with the flipsky vesc over the G2?

@@NavalTechTinkerer not really i just know more about esc's from modeling and the time it takes to get the things. the shop had the g2 so i went for those i guess it can only improve things over the generic cheap one's i was using. i am testing soon in the river so fingers crossed.

Ok my friend cheers

Thanks just waiting to buy new esc,s

Cheers

Hi I made the board. Check out the build series on my channel. Cheers

Hi cheers I need to buy better esc then I will put the lipo in series and check the difference. Thanks for the info.

It will fit the printer, but it might not work depending on the spool you have. The hole on Creality and Polymaker cardboard spools are small and make it very fiddly to mount them with this type of solution.

Hi I believe it's the same on the se

Hi thanks for the detailed information I will be implementing the upgrades as soon as the wallet will allow. Cheers

Cool cheers. If it is cavitation how would I solve it ? I re made the impellers to try and eliminate any issues with that but when I change some settings in the esc's it can get slightly better but still there all the same. Well either way I need bigger esc,s to up the voltage. Thanks for the comment.

Hi my email adress is on my youtube front page under more/show email under my channel art. you can email me there and then i can share my number.

Thank you very much!

I totally agree and thanks for your input, the Venturi fins do have a slight offset to them but I might have to make them more angled in the future. The cells you mentioned I have looked at and will go for making a battery one day but was going on what I saw other TH-camrs doing as a starting point. Hey it's all part of the fun in the end. The upcoming video highlights the esc problem even more so will have to change them whatever happens. Much appreciated.👍

@@thewaysider7774 I know how much time and money it takes to get these projects working so well done and looking forward to seeing any more videos. Just one other idea, I had the same issue with fixing the impellor onto the shaft and got in touch with Loctite. They recommended LOCTITE 480 as it doesn’t degrade plastics and is used to attach gears to shafts. It is quite expensive but you use very little and is incredibly strong without pinning, worked for me anyway.

Hi yeah I have the same anet a8 it was good to start the printing journey but I really can't look back now after having the ender ke or the other printers in the range are also good but whatever you go for it is a step up from the old anet.

@@thewaysider7774 Roger that I learned a lot about 3D printing with the a net it's pretty well tricked out but it's not a new printer I'm excited about getting the KE I've been researching all of them and I don't think for $275 you can beat that ender KE, thanks for the reply best of luck to you!

@@metalfabman5477 My pleasure thanks for the comment.

Hi thanks very much the board is 16 kg fully loaded so it's easy to walk down the river with, that was one of the main objectives from the start.👍

Thank you! Cheers!

Cheers man I have heard of spackle but never used it I decided to cover the board in the end with some polyurethane sheet which gave me a little more thickness which I needed. I think it's video 2 or 3 but thanks so much for your comment much appreciated.

I don't think so it's nice to have the ability to carry on with the print in my opinion as not all printers do and you lose hours of printing.

You're welcome!

Yes my friend it opens up a whole new world I love it.

Cheers

Yes, thanks

Hi no I haven't I will but I have a problem with the esc's it's some kind of a pulsing when it gets warm so when I get that fixed I will run more tests. Any ideas are welcome.

I have tested a lot but need to upgrade the speed controllers as I have a limited throttle and a pulsing type effect in the power. Some issues to sort out.

Hey just for the prototype I stuck them but in the future I plan to use fin boxes

Hey thanks the motors feel powerful and I wanted to get going on 25v first but it's like there is not enough top rpm because of the fluctuating power, it gets worse as it warms up so I am going for better escs so I can also up the voltage. Just need some more money first.

@@thewaysider7774 that makes sense, I have a 12s system and have plenty of power. Now I am trying to have the system water sealed completely. Proving it be very difficult. This project is definitely not cheap either. I used a few Lipo batteries for testing. Haven’t gotten 18650s for the long term solution yet.

@@micahkoelmeyer1519 Hey yeah i am looking at getting new esc's to run on 12s also and if all is good will be making a battery some time. i am currently re- designing the jet drives to start with a better system all round. the water issue is solved i think but hate all the silicone so will be ripping them out soon even before i ride as i need slightly less vibration also, its not bad but i am a perfectionist i guess. Thanks for the comment. Keep me posted on your build.

Thanks a lot 😊

Cheers

Thanks so much it means a lot to me. It's been a challenge and continues to be.

Thanks

Hi yes the printer can be paused and it will carry on printing i also posted a video on if the printer looses power then it resumes also, so i think the filement sensor will pause the print if it runs out and there is no body there.

Hi thanks for the comment. I used one layer on the bottom of the board like a typical surfboard and anywhere I am standing on the top there are two layers of 200g carbon like the hatches, with another 3 layers on the underside of the hatches. It's kept the board light at 16kg all up with motors etc.

@@thewaysider7774 Fantastic. Where did you get your hatch latches from?

They were amerzon but should have tried the plastic version to save a little more weight. I cover the top of the latch with a black rubber glove to keep them waterproof. They are 19mm size.

@@Mitchworks698 Hi From Amerzon

Hi there i live in europe there is a company called TFL-Hobby in germany he sells motor's equivilant to SSS 56 size. www.tfl-hobby.de/info/Ueber-uns.html copy this link in google and check it out translate the site in english. And another site is Ejets where i bought my motor's 2 x 550kv 56104. hope this helps. shop.ejets.at/OShop