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no, Thank You!

Thank you very much! I try and be quicker on replies. My apologies for not replying sooner.

You are not the first person who has said I talk too fast. Thank you for the feedback and taking the time to comment. Its deeply appreciated!

You are not the first person who has said I talk to fast. OK, we'll try and spend more time on each topic. Thank you for the feedback!

OK. I think I understand your confusion. I suppose it's definition of "handling". By roll couple distribution, and roll affects on handling is really on the camber changes and the changes in aero experienced. Does that help? Roll couple determines "where" the weight is transferred. Not how much. Weight transfer is "how much" weight is transferred. Weight transfer is what we want to minimize. We accomplish that with running lighter and running a wider track width. The point of this content is to differentiate weight transfer and body roll. Weight transfer is what we really want to minimize. Body roll is not necessarily a bad thing. Many guys when setting up their chassis aim to select a spring rate to minimize roll. Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If your car is aero sensitive you'll want to run stiffer. Softer springs actually help mechanical grip. Make sense?

slow down, as in talking too fast?

Yup[@@CallToGrid

Sincerely appreciate that feedback. Yup, I've always had that issue. My brain gets going and my mouth tries to keep up. Haha. Appreciate you taking the time to provide that feedback.

@@CallToGrid I appreciate how you take constructive criticism and how you responded to me. TY, It says a lot about your character. “Fast talking” is becoming increasingly common these days, especially so with the younger generation. So maybe you’re ahead of your time! 😉 Also, I suppose my 73 yr. old brain (and ears) struggle to catch up, which certainly isn’t your fault.

No, I sincerely appreciate your feedback. What I do is out of love, so it's not a job. Its out of love so easier to accept constructive criticism. Peace to you my friend. If you liked this, be sure to Follow us on Facebook.

realized the URL moved. Standby ... will reply once its up. Thank you for letting us know!

URL added. Apologize for the delay. calltogrid.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ChassisAdjustmentsAtTheTrackAndShop.pdf

Dang! Missed this comment. Super sorry for not responding sooner. :-( Happy we could help! That is our goal! To provide value!

What was stated was to stiffen the end that is cooler. In general, a stiffer spring/shock will add heat to the tire.

Here's the simplified equation. LLT (Later Load Transfer) = Ay x h / t Where, Ay is lateral acceleration h is height of the center of gravity and t is track width. Make the numbers on the top of this equation SMALLER you get lower overall LLT, and/or make the numbers on the bottom of this equation LARGER you also get lower overall LLT. Think of a see-saw. If you have 500 lbs. on either end of a 2 foot see-saw, it will be tough to control. Put that same 500lbs on either end of a 20 ft see-saw, your can probably control it with your pinkly. Its a lever arm. Like when using a wrench if you can't loosen the bolt, you get a wrench with a longer arm so you can get more force acting on the bolt. Make sense? Yea, sometimes you really need to stop and think about this stuff and what you are trying to do. For the driver, a wider track width helps make the car more predictable. (Our see-saw example). Did that help?

@@CallToGrid yes I see. If you make a free body diagram of it as your formula it is indeed clear that if you make your trackwidth infinitely high there won't be be any lateral load transfer. This also means that a long wheelbase is best for braking I would say because there is less longitudinal load transfer

Follow up. you say " why a wider trackwidth is better for grip". I think what you really mean is go faster around a corner, correct? Grip is separate from lateral load transfer It affects it, but wider track width does not directly affect grip. Grip is a function of the tire material, heat of the tire, the contact patch and the type of road surface. As I said in the video, grip is affected by how we get more of the tire in contact with the road surface, those being: - Camber - Toe - Tire Pressure - Roll Steer - Bump steer Also from the video, we also affect grip by the vertical load acting on the tire (weight pushing down on it making it tougher to move side to side). This is why F1 and IMSA all maximize aero to add downforce. It adds vertical load without adding weight to the vehicle. Conversely, form the equation above for LLT. 'Ay' is the lateral acceleration. So increasing grip by the factors I mention here will increase lateral acceleration. You'll be capable of carrying more G's in the corner. In conclusion, grip affects lateral load transfer, not the other way around. Make sense?

Depends. If your car has lots of horsepower, yes, you want a longer wheelbase. A shorter wheelbase is better for lower horsepower cars. A Mini "handles" better, more responsive, quicker to accept driver inputs than say a Corvette or Mustang. Obviously vehicle weight plays a role too. There's no free lunch in this stuff. And so many factors to consider. Some within your control and some not.

@@CallToGrid I was indeed aiming on the relationship between grip and cornering. Theoretical looking a car with a certain mass with a wider trackwidth has less lateral load transfer, this means that the vertical force between left and right will be more equal than in a scenario width a shorter trackwidth. The relation between lateral force and vertical force of the tire is non lineair. This due to the degressive tire characteristic. A tire losing weight will lose traction more quickly than the tire gaining weight will gain traction. That equals a net reduction from the maximum possible traction when weight shift occurs. So imagine an infinitely width trackwith when cornering almost zero weight shift occur. Normal force (Fn) times dynamic friction coefficient (mu)= the lateral force of the tire can exert on the road. So trackwidth ]affects cornering grip. This I can say right

Obviously it matters in the cornering sequence where the understeer is occurring. Most common is corner entry. Yea, and it's semantics when it comes to shock tuning (decrease/increase vs more firm/soft). Some shocks have pictures of turtles and rabbits on them to help understand. Turtle meaning to slow down, rabbit to speed up. For corner entry understeer (most common) what we mean here is to resist the shock from rebounding. Think about it, in cornering, when you've loaded the front end, you want to keep that vertical load on the front tires, helping with grip as you apply steering input. So you want to RESIST the shock from rebounding to soon. Make sense? Conversely, if your car has a tendency to oversteer on entry corner entry (outside of modifying the driver (excessive trailbraking)) try getting weight to shift to the rear sooner. Yea, you need to stop and think about this stuff. Hope that helps. Appreciate the response.

@@CallToGrid thanks for the response, that makes sense. Use softer settings on front to combat understeer because it compresses more quickly (bump) and stays down longer (rebound)

@@danielhass4812 depends if you have single adjustable vs double adjustable shocks. Do you want to upgrade your shocks? We can help. What kind of car do you have?

@@CallToGrid thanks! 2020 Supra. SPL bits and MSS HAS w/ factory dampeners. Starting to do my research on Coilovers, and trying to learn as much as I can before purchasing. Never had Coilovers. I’m thinking I may only need 1 ways since I am far from advanced, and still drive it on the street a couple thousand miles a year. Ohlins road and track is what I’m thinking. Read good things about MCS and JRZ, but those are a big step up

We offer AST shocks on our site. You have the Supra A90 MK5? calltogrid.com/ast-suspension/ We have a handful of products yet to backfill. The Supra is one of them. I can get you a price though if interested. But honestly, what is your driving experience? How many events have you attended? Are you doing HPDE/Track Days, (i.e. no timing)? Who do you run with? I'm all for making a sale, but if you are still developing your skills behind the wheel I'd highly recommend you not make many mods to your car until you're more skilled. (i.e. more consistent, corner by corner, lap by lap). If you mod your car now you won't know if it's you or the mod to the car that made something better or worse. Many instructors recommend limiting mods when you are a newer driver to tires and pads. Don't go R-Comp tire yet. Too sticky and no audible feedback. Stick with treadwear of 225 or higher. They have grip and also provide an audible feedback as they approach the traction limit. Can get a good sticky all-purpose tire with a treadwear of 225 or higher. I can help with pads. That Supra is a very capable car. I got my start in a C5 Corvette Z06. Super capable car, but it was over my head. I knew this sport was something I wanted to stick with. I sold it and got a used 1995 MX5 a guy was selling at the track. Cheaper car, and great car to learn on. You can stick with the Supra, just try and limit mods. My thoughts. Here to help!

We are thrilled you found value! That is our goal!

Wow! Thank you! We are not going for fame, rather to provide value. OK, yea, sure, we want views and subscribers. Takes time. If you got value from the content, then we are satisfied. peace

so happy we helped and so cool to hear! Our goal is quality content!

@@CallToGrid and you did it. I can't believe you are doing such good contents for 6 years and have only that number of views! The algorythm of youtube is merciless with some content creators sometimes for no reason!

@@LSracing971Wow! Awesome man! Appreciate that! Dude, comments like that keep us going! You don't know! Yea, does take time. TH-cam needs to see consistency. Been growing, but think about it. You Tube wants people to stay on the platform, so they want to see consistency. Anything takes work! But we do this from love! Its what we enjoy so its not work! Peace brutha, and Happy Holidays!

What's your concern? See the sad emoji.

<hear pat> Sincere thank you! We aim to provide value! We'd appreciate a share to get the word out! Again, sincerest thank you!

were you able to get the file? We were using our Google Docs account to store the files but realized we needed something more secure. We are developing a new site which should be live in about a month. We're using WordPress which will make sharing documents more easy. Let us know if you need anything.

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Good comment. Running negative camber the inside of the tire will be slightly warmer. If you could take instantaneous temperature mid-corner when the tire is loaded you should see equal temperature across the face of the tire, ideally (means you are maximizing the tires available grip). But since you spend more time going straight, the inside will be slightly warmer running negative camber. So if you come through the hot pit to take tire temperature the inside will be slightly warmer. The swing between inside edge to outside should be minimal, around 10F. Tire pressure also plays a role as we describe later. in the video Thank you for the comment and the Subscribe!

@@CallToGrid Thank you that makes sense. I am going to try to get some pyrometer data at autocross this weekend. If I can get out to measure quickly enough I hope it will tell me something. I'll also chalk.

@@thebandit4393 Awesome! Let us know how it went!

@@CallToGrid First I had an awesome day of autocross! The course was just over a minute in duration with a long time between runs, so the tires did not get terribly hot. I started with pressures at 34psi front and 32psi rear using 245/40R18 and 275/35R18 Falken RT660s (200tw). Throughout the day I used a probe pyrometer after each run as soon as I pulled back into grid. As an example, tire temps for the front outside, middle, and inside were 115, 117, 118 deg F. Rear tire temperatures were in the low 90s. I found at 32psi the middle was a little hotter than the outside and the inside, so I dropped the pressure to 30psi and then they were very even across the face of the tire. I have a live axle out back. Up front I was running -1.5deg camber, +8deg caster, and 1/16th toe out. Each run the tire pressure would increase so I readjusted back down to 34FF/30RR and the temperature gradient remained similar. After the day of autocross, I can see the tire wear is very even across the face and extends just beyond the siping, not down the sidewall, so I think the pressures were good, but I'd love to hear more on the topic.

@@thebandit4393 I'm just seeing this reply. Sorry I didn't see it sooner. So cool to hear! Ok, we'll work on generating similar content. So happy we provided you value! Deepest sincere gratitude! <heart pat>

Yea, SIM racing is a market we didn't anticipate, but principles apply. Please Subscribe and click the Bell to get notified when we upload new content. And if there is a skill you want to develop/improve, please leave a comment

So awesome to hear! Thank you!

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<heart pat> Sincerely appreciate that! Takes time to put quality content together and provide value.

Phillip, URL provided in the More section.

Normally keeping tires cool is not a problem. Optimally racing tires should be kept between 185-200F to be generating optimal grip. Cooling is only an issue on very hot days. You'll feel it! After a few hot laps you'll feel the tires giving way like there is a layer of butter or grease between the tire and the track surface. A very odd feeling, and you feel it. Design something up, collect data and you may have stumbled upon something.

Appreciate the kind words! Great comments! As you said, regarding roll, if you run too soft your car will take a set, and then exceed slip angle and the limit of the tire. If this this is the case then run a bit stiffer. However, if you exceed the tire limits immediately on turn in, then run a bit softer. Springs determine WHERE the weight is transferred, front relative to the rear, and its the job of the driver to control the TIMING and RATE of that weight transfer. Timing is determined by WHEN driver inputs are provided, and the RATE is determined by how smoothly those inputs are provided. The smoother the driver is, the weight is transferred in a way such that the chassis can absorb them. You might be interested in this video where we describe different chassis setting based upon the smoothness or bumpiness of the track surface. th-cam.com/video/emztS-Q1Gq0/w-d-xo.html An extreme case being Sebring where you want to run as soft as possible, shocks included, to absorb the bumps, but stiff enough such that you get good feedback from the tires and maintain compliance of suspension geometry and your desired camber. Cheers, mate!

Haven't done any Karting but the principles should apply. Rubber meeting an asphalt surface. Temperature across the face of the tire would show you if you have correct tire pressures and camber. And tire temperature at each corner would show how each tire is generating heat. Could make adjustments from there. A scale would show how you have static weight distributed.

Glad you enjoyed it and got some value! Have a great time brutha! But even more slippery if it rains on top of that rubber. We publish new content the first of each month!

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