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@@maryw9419 thanks Mary!

Unplug battery 30 minutes let sit

Do you change front screen or open the Car's bumper from mechanic??

That stinks

How did you solve it?

You will need an up to date techstream computer to do it. Unless you own a dealership, it's pretty much next to impossible.

Is that why it malfunctions after going in drive through car wash? Sensors go crazy, wint start, windshield wipers so much was going on. After i finished vacuuming, everthing started tapering off, I'm thinking something dried up and was able to drive. This was in 110° degree heat. I havent done it again since

Yeah, it changed the draw of electricity. It's very sensitive and was fixed when I removed the brake harness

@@tompetroff thanks for response. I'll remove it!

There are 2 screws in the front of the base plate

Yes, unfortunately it was junk and fell apart

@@tompetroff specific brand/model of that anamorphic lens?

It was brand new so it was a warrantee fix

I paid $370 for diagnostics and they told me sensor was going bad and it would be $1000 to replace it. It started during Covid and I never took it in. I do not want to give them more money for something that might be wrong with all Chrs

I’m having same issues with my 2019 C-HR. LDA, Pre-collision, and headlight system malfunction errors keep popping up. Toyota gave me a quote of $600 to “fix” those error messages.

@@gabriellanicole2924 are you having any trouble with your headlights or is it just the automatic high beams?

I'm sorry I had a mechanic do all the work for me.

I'm sorry, I wish I could. I was told it by the Toyota representative after they held onto my car for about 2 weeks. They ran diagnostics

No just the update in the comments

That's an excellent point thanks

So my airbag light is on because seller didn't replace the curtain airbag. My BSM doesnt work because driver side door was replaced with original. Maybe the connection not plugged in for the mirror? Also cruise control radar works but if i get close to someone it wont pick that up. Lane assist works. Also i noticed when its hot i get a pre collilsion malfunction but goes away when it cools down

Iron Malden does it almost every show but this one is pretty gnarly.

My understanding is the radar is only in the front. Maybe the accident jarred something?

Faheem Ali / I have the same problem. The OBD scan tool shows the code POA1114 meaning "DC-DC converter enable circuit short to ground". I took it to a few mechanics and the hybrid battery is good, the DC-DC converter gives good amps and voltages. When I press on the brake the red warning sign of the battery comes on, but only when the car is moving forward or backward, not when the car is stationary. I suspect that either there's a bad electronic component in the DC-DC converter that creates the short to ground only on regen function ( regen is when pressing the brake, and takes place when car is moving forward or backward ) or some bad braking sensor on the body of the main brake system ( the braking system is "on wire", electronic, the feeling of resistance that you have when you brake by pushing with your foot is fake, is created artificially by a spring ) that has electronic connection to the DC-to-DC converter system. The mechanics don't know what causes it. I'm still trying to find better mechanics to repair it.

Appreciated

​@@mikel4879Just a mortal, but after watching several videos, trying to troubleshoot my prius 2017, I saw one that said to check brake fluid. Pre collision is linked to your brakes, so might be sensing that?? Just a suggestion, sorry if irrelevant

Platizza • I have found exactly what the problem was. It was the whole wire harness around the engine that connects everything. The wires in the harness have defects in them from the factory, respective interruptions due to poor wire quality from the factory. Also the connections to connectors, inside the connectors, are bad from the factory due to the same bad factory quality. This is only for the models built in 2016, 2017 and MAYBE some models of 2018 ( I'm not very sure about the Prius 4 2018 models ). ( There's been a recall in those years 2017-2018, etc about the bad wire quality of those years' models, you can check it with Google. I'm talking especially about the Prius 4 models built in the Toyota Japan factory in 2016 and 2917 and considered as 2017 models. ) I have found interruptions in the wires at a distance like 2-3 inches=5-7 centimeters from the 2 small black connectors going on the top of the inverter converter ( the green wire in the bundle ). Also I found bad connections to the big 2 gray connectors, one longer, one shorter, that are next, left and up ( when you look from the front of the hood ) to the main big black fuse box that's on the right side. I replaced, patched and fixed the best I could everything, wires and connections in the big connectors, it worked for a couple months but after those 2-3 months the problems returned even with more defects, warnings, stopping of the car, and the whole craziness. It stopped my Prius on the freeway completely. The only solution was to change the whole wire harness which I did. I bought a used harness from dismantling businesses for $150, ( because an absolutely new harness at dealership is like a few thousand dollars! 😱 ), it was from 2019-2020 models, the owner over there told me that they are either from 2019 or 2020 models. He said that if it doesn't work, he can exchange it with no problem. I exchanged the harness myself working on top of the engine and under the car, it is hard, it took me around 5 hours; a mechanic can do it faster by raising the car, etc but the pay for labor is a lot ). It worked perfectly, no problems at all after I replaced the whole harness with a newer one ( not the same years model, but newer Prius 4 models, 2019, 2020, etc. You have to make absolutely sure that it is compatible with the 2016-2017 Prius 4 model ). Toyota gives you a new harness for free only if the harness is found defective and only if it's still in the warranty period that's covered ( I think - I'm not very sure - it's around 60 000 miles driven maximum, shown by the odometer. Mine was way over it ).

faheemali8914 • I have found exactly what the problem was. It was the whole wire harness around the engine that connects everything. The wires in the harness have defects in them from the factory, respective interruptions due to poor wire quality from the factory. Also the connections to connectors, inside the connectors, are bad from the factory due to the same bad factory quality. This is only for the models built in 2016, 2017 and MAYBE some models of 2018 ( I'm not very sure about the Prius 4 2018 models ). ( There's been a recall in those years 2017-2018, etc about the bad wire quality of those years' models, you can check it with Google. I'm talking especially about the Prius 4 models built in the Toyota Japan factory in 2016 and 2917 and considered as 2017 models. ) I have found interruptions in the wires at a distance like 2-3 inches=5-7 centimeters from the 2 small black connectors going on the top of the inverter converter ( the green wire in the bundle ). Also I found bad connections to the big 2 gray connectors, one longer, one shorter, that are next, left and up ( when you look from the front of the hood ) to the main big black fuse box that's on the right side. I replaced, patched and fixed the best I could everything, wires and connections in the big connectors, it worked for a couple months but after those 2-3 months the problems returned even with more defects, warnings, stopping of the car, and the whole craziness. It stopped my Prius on the freeway completely. The only solution was to change the whole wire harness which I did. I bought a used harness from dismantling businesses for $150, ( because an absolutely new harness at dealership is like a few thousand dollars! 😱 ), it was from 2019-2020 models, the owner over there told me that they are either from 2019 or 2020 models. He said that if it doesn't work, he can exchange it with no problem. I exchanged the harness myself working on top of the engine and under the car, it is hard, it took me around 5 hours; a mechanic can do it faster by raising the car, etc but the pay for labor is a lot ). It worked perfectly, no problems at all after I replaced the whole harness with a newer one ( not the same years model, but newer Prius 4 models, 2019, 2020, etc. You have to make absolutely sure that it is compatible with the 2016-2017 Prius 4 model ). Toyota gives you a new harness for free only if the harness is found defective and only if it's still in the warranty period that's covered ( I think - I'm not very sure - it's around 60 000 miles driven maximum, shown by the odometer. Mine was way over it ).

It offset the ohms of electrical system. That's what Toyota said. Haven't had an issue since I had the brake light adapter removed from the trailer hitch

2 months late, but I was involved in a accident where someone rear ended me. My Ford fiesta (same layout of the system) displayed that the adaptive cruise control system had malfunctioned. So yes I can confirm with 100% certainty that a rear shunt can affect the pre collision system (as it uses the same radar as the adaptive cruise control)

@@tompetroff hi thomas , my toyota corolla hybrid showing the same signs+ hybrid malfunction system... and car is not starting as well.... did you have same problem?? And what has been repaired can you tell me please if you know about it,,, thankss

If you notice in the description the fix was due to a trailer hitch installation

@@tompetroff I've seen. I had the similar problem when my sprint booster got loose. I disconnected the bettery for 5 mins. Started the car for 10mins. I've used a reader & it was cleared. Kinda made me worried it happened while I was actually driving. I was limited on speed. Good thing it happened couple if blocks from my place. FIgure I shared what had worked for me.

Same here

Same here😢

Same

Same here

I have the rod attached to the the front of the cage

thomas petroff jr hi, using what in order to do it? Is it a small rig part? Thanks!

Nope still a workhorse

The bracket is just a shoe mount that comes with the wheel

@@tompetroff what’s the rod holding the handwheel from?