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@pwrcycles4735 the factory harness has a fan plug that is proprietary and used when installing the Beta OEM fan kit. That plug provides a hot wire (only while bike is running) and a ground. I simply clipped that plug off to extend the wires down. Positive goes to the fan, and the ground goes to the thermostat, then ground wire goes to the fan. This allows the fan to be switched on by the ground wire.

@@lilmarshw these guys can help. www.bobsmirrors.com/

@PitCh0w glad to help. I got the hose from Advance Auto. Any parts store should have a length of coolant hose. it's the only hose you need to get you driving, but I recommend getting the A/C kit from the link in the description. This will keep moisture out and get you ready for the recharge.

@@patrickdejesus6059 sure is, and thanks! Sold it with 300+ hrs and 2 full seasons of US Hard Enduro. I keep them crispy.

@valeriefrench9405 my rear blower is long gone. However, it's very straightforward. 1. Disconnect A/C lines from under the rear unit (follow video on new front connecting parts) 2. Disconnect coolant lines from under rear unit (follow video on parts and looping the line) 3. Remove blower motor by removing bolts holding it to the body. 4. Make a plate to block holes, or add a hinge/plug system.

Do you have a link for those particular videos please

@@valeriefrench9405 th-cam.com/video/yxOvwN2pSDU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4wXTHV_f83qVwhCa

@@valeriefrench9405 th-cam.com/play/PLDjegd6CZGEmNBESWbJWxptsUeB-0xsYx.html&si=hDxRPpoQPtDmB7sP

The Beta tool kit comes with a thin wall socket for getting to the plug that sits on the side. Swapping them is easy with Beta's supplied tool.

@@mattmccallum2879 snap in plugs with calking added to seal them.

@@xlr8offroad do you happen to have a link for the plugs you used?

@@mattmccallum2879 these of variable sizes worked great. The flat portion is on the inside and plugging the hole from the top. I also used clear silicone liberally and covered the plug with a square of duct tape. A few of the holes are oval shaped so measure before you buy. www.amazon.com/Murtenze-Plastic-Fastener-Locking-Furniture/dp/B0C3GMMX3V?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATP0WEY14GZXT&th=1

@@Jeff-h9d 100% agree

@@renaudlandry3502 I mean, pop the hood and remove the positive termial from the van's battery. Then turn the key on and hold the brake pedle for 20 sec. This ensures the Body Control Module and electrical system is fully discharged.

@@starmaster191 a reflash to the BCM should enable the feature. With a drive by wire throttle, cruise needs nothing more than external controls to trigger it. Thanks for the update and please keep us posted!!

@@xlr8offroad Thank you!!!

@xlr8offroad yeah, I called a gm dealer and the chevy dealer yesterday and even the guys at the junkyard all said no it can't be done or it's too expensive or they don't think it could be done. I told them I watched a couple TH-cam videos and even the owner of the junkyard said I might need to get it reflashed. if it doesn't work, at least I get a new wheel out of it.

@@starmaster191 great feedback, thanks!

Definitely! Ironically, that was just the beginning...lol. My 2017 saw 300+ hours of hard enduro. It was looped, tossed, zinged, and crushed, but it was always reliable. It was such a tank!

100% agree. Thanks for watching!

@@voltar90 fantastic!

Unfortunately, I have not. In July, I had shoulder surgery, so I'm off the bike until January. I definitely still plan to not only ride them back to back but also document them. More importantly, I want to get my friend's experience with both bikes as well. He's a very experienced GNCC & trials rider, so his input will also be valuable. Stay tuned!!🤟

@@xlr8offroad Thanks!

@@andko00201 in the garbage bin long ago.

@@xlr8offroad Really. I didn't know you can do that. Does it increase power? Why did you throw it away? Thanks.

@dirtbikehombre7987 you're welcome! Yes, mostly because I still ride in the winter, so winterizing is a lot easier with the jugs after each use. It also makes it easier to control how much water I have for each purpose.

@olegk455 it is the 1 finger lever. As for Tubliss, it is definitely not a requirement. But the benefits are pretty big. The bike still rolls and makes it back to the truck with 0 psi, the added traction is insane, and the system is relatively low cost. One option would be to only add it to the rear, and run heavy duty tubes in the front. Hope this helps.

@utahdesertrider1806 does your friend Jimmy race hard enduro without a backup kickstart? If he is an offroad guy, he probably hits the button at the start line once per race... Switches fail all the time. I'm not spending $900 replacing bolts with titanium here...lol. A backup start switch is a VERY common mod for hard enduro riders and is not remotely expensive or complicated. Every mod on my bike serves 1 of 2 purposes. Be more reliable to finish a race or be more specific to my riding style. That's it. No chrome graphics, cone valves, high compression heads, or custom pipes... It's pretty basic stuff here. Thanks for the input and discussion!

​@@xlr8offroad Highly agree! Always good Peace of Mind to have a backup starter whether it be electric or a kick starter when doing Enduro/trail riding! Absolutely necessary IMO!

@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic 2x. One for each side.

@xcridin5234 Ptech. They are rock solid with some great features. They accommodate the 24 radiator shape for more clearance, and they have a built-in fan bracket for either SPAL or the Beta oem fan to bolt right up. Check out my mod discussion vid as I show the features first hand. Thanks for supporting the channel!!

@@xlr8offroad i was looking at getting the ptech for my new beta 300 but sierra motorcycle supplies said it would take several weeks for them to come from europe. where did you grab yours from?

​@xcridin5234 I ordered directly from Ptech and it took just over a week.

@mr1982davies I appreciate the input! Planning on a set of S3 Punk 5mm down, 5mm back.

@@xlr8offroad no worries happy to help and give feedback on what I run on my 24 model 300rr racing

@Maxpayn7895 Yeah, it's a balance of what will leave you sitting and added weight. But I will say, nothing worse than going from 1st to DNF because of a bike failure. Especially if it's a part that you could have easily carried.

@easternyellowjacket276 correct. The 125X was such a cool bike. But as my interest gravitated to riding and racing hard enduro exclusively, I've found that a trials bike was truly the ultimate trainer. It's been a few years, and I will say I chose correctly. There isn't a top rider that doesn't ride trials.

@@xlr8offroad I bought an Electric Motion trials to train so I could set up a circuit to practice in my yard. It transformed my riding skills for my 450. Be that as it may, I've thought of grabbing a 125x because they looks so fun.

​@easternyellowjacket276 very cool! As for the 125X, it's a blast.

@jonclements6581 it's magical.

@@woodsrider117 I ran a Ptech skid plate/guard combo on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up from mud, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. The screeen helps with the bud but doesn't reduce clearance. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.

@@woodsrider117 they really are. Well designed and have taken some hard hits without bending so far. The cage like 1 piece design is the way 👌.

The Mako has been great for post carpal tunnel surgery.

@vincedaugherty9687 There is a reason SmartCarb uses the DF metering rod (fatter bottom) and a richer base setting compared to all previous single plug designs that use an AQ-11. Additionally, there is no difference in stock Keihin jetting configuration from Beta between the 23 single & 24 dual plug bikes, which I find interesting.... My 24's Keihin had some rich running issues stock, which came down to a wrong needle clip position from the factory and possibly a stuck float. I ran into having too much unburnt fuel in the engine, which fouled plugs every time there was a tip over as the fuel came down on the plugs in the head. Once getting that cleaned up, I have had no issues with the Keihin or the SC2 on this bike. The smooth off idle torque of this engine is different. It's different than my 17 with an S3 head. It's different than the 23 Race Editions I've ridden. Trials riders spend countless hours tuning initial torque feel from off idle conditions. This is where I feel the 24 shines. This is also where the pro hard enduro rider that rode my bike felt the difference from his 24 Husky. "It's a little more buzzy, but the low end is so smooth. Stronger down low than my bike. " It's possible that the dual plug design is more sensitive to the jetting. Additionally, I moved away from the expensive irridium and switched to a CR7EB with the same great results. It's about half the cost of the rare OEM plug. It's worth noting that I only ride and race hard enduro. I'm a top 40+ B rider, and I'm definitely not fast. For my uses, the dual plug is excellent. My .002. I will be making a video on this for sure.

My dual plug 24’ beta runs flawlessly. 43 hrs. Not a hitch. Lfgooooo

Likely an effort from your dealer. Well done on their part for sure.

I ran a Ptech on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.

Thanks! Same for me. Locked & Loaded was a much better race for my style. 4th check is awesome! That place is gnarly!

I haven't tried, but I would say not a bigger person. A child or small female, possibly. The runners will limit leg room. If a passenger is key, go with the smaller tail rack.

@@xlr8offroad thanks, I like the setup btw.

@@davidmcallister4564 happy to help!

Possibly. Detonation and what some people call pipe bang can be caused by fueling. If there is a knock in the low rim, that can be piston slap. Beta's have a little rattle down low that most owners identify as normal. My 17 had it and my 24, but unless it's very pronounced, I wouldn't worry too much. Detonation can also be caused by fuel quality. What octane are you running, and what oil mix? I run 93 ethanol free at 50:1 with a low flashpoint oil like Motul 710 or Liquimoly. Additionally, you could try cutting a tank with Race gas to see if it removes the symptom. If it does, you will know for sure it is your gas quality and not the actual fuel delivery via carb. Next question would be, have you gone through your Keihin and jetted to your location? If not, double-check all the jets and needle clip position. Mine was off 1 clip position from the factory. Yes, the Smart Carb fueling down low is better to me. It's smoother off the bottom and cleans up some of the surge that comes from the Keihin transitioning through circuits. Some people say it takes the "hit" but it really just changes the throttle progression. Hope this helps

I admit, she didn't spend alot of time on the bike after the mods, but she did like the bars for sure!

Honestly, I have used the strap both ways. I like it on top of the lower triple for a few reasons. 1. The length of the strap remains the same, which is easier to grab when needed. The loops don't sag or work their way down even when it has a zip tie. 2. They stay clean. Small, butit does keep them from rotting over time as the material gets continuously saturated. 3. I have never had an issue with them sliding up when running an MX plate. Because my headlight is removed, there are no rubber ring straps to hold it in place. Frankly, the pull strap could slide to the top, and it wouldn't hurt a thing. I appreciate the input and channel support!!

@@xlr8offroad Right on. Main thing is it's just how you like it. Very impressed with your setup I'm still rolling on my 2012 498 pushing 400 hours. These are very reliable bikes.

@@olliechristopher467 im with you. Simply because you can lift and pull with it under the triple.

I am preparing for a trip from Minnesota to Oregon

Heidenau ultra high mileage tires also make a big difference. Glad I bought them.

@@jimsteele7108 great feedback! Thanks!