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Hi zwekhuz, The clutch system can be bled out from a valve that is quite hidden, it is near the left side of the selespeed reservoir tank. It is black in colour, there is a picture of it in my last update of water pump repair video. It would have to turn the nipple head 180 degrees to open the valve and suction from there. If you have the paid version of the multiecuscan or AlfaObd app, there are a few things that you could do. First do a clutch bleed program so to make sure that the pressure and clutch is working properly. Second, do the clutch fine tune enable program so that the clutch is calibrated properly. Third, do the End of line calibration program so that the gearbox is calibrated properly too. Then see if the car runs properly. I am using the AlfaOBD app which can do all this connected via Bluetooth to the OBD reader. If you can run the car on real time, check that the Selespeed pressure is between 36 to 46 bar for the system to run properly. The whole system works on the basis that the pressure is right and the clutch can be operated first before the gears can be shifted. It is also a good idea to change the Selespeed fluid every 20,000km or 6 months. Keeping the oil clean helps the Selespeed a lot. Cheers and thank you for subscribing!

Hey Tony, I have replied you in IG, did you see it? Vlinker MC+ and AlfaObd app

Hello Sniper, Did you unplug your throttle body with the battery still connected? Did you change a new throttle body? One simple way is just to disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 minutes then reconnect again. It should "relearn" the new part that's installed. If you have watched my water pump videos, I realised that my car has no more double crank starts and it drives much better after I have removed the battery and lambda sensors for 3 days. It does "reset" the ECU and everything runs better for me. Thank you for watching and subscribing! Cheers!

@elgdisco hello elgdisco thank you for your answer

Hey tbm17, I am not sure what your mechanic did but Dot 4 for the clutch actuator reservoir is correct. It is a very small tank, maybe 100-150ml but bleeding the system will use at least 500ml to 1L. There is a bleed valve that is just beside the selespeed tank that is quite hidden. It needs to be turn 180 degrees in order to bleed the clutch system. As the clutch actuator reservoir is very small, it would need to top up very quickly as the fluid is bleed through the valve. Else air bubbles will get in quickly. CS speed is also correct. You can also use titan CHF-11S from Fuchs, I use this for both my power steering system and selespeed system. You can’t drain the selespeed oil, I would just suction from the tank and replace with new oil. By dilution, I would change it a few times to keep the oil fresh. I change my selespeed oil every 15,000km. While this is just the mechanical part of the service, the software part has to be done too. Do you have access to read and run diagnostics on the transmission? There are 3 diagnostics that I run after every selespeed service. Clutch self-calibration Clutch bleed End of line/service self-calibration All these has to be done on the software side to ensure smooth operation. Cheers and thank you for subscribing! :)

@elgdisco thanks a lot for your answer. The car is currently at the mechanic who serviced it last time. In France we don't have mechanics that know how to fix Selespeed...he is supposed to be a specialist but I am worried anyway

Hey, I know the pain but have a frank and transparent conversation with your mechanic. I am sure he can understand your concerns. Do update me on the progress! Don’t worry so much! Cheers!

Hey ymangatprov5932, If the car is running fine then just changing the timing crank cover gasket will do. But bear in mind that the power steering belt, auxiliary belt and the belt tensioner will have to be removed. Since they are out, you might consider replacing them too. The main seal for the crank pulley should also be replaced at the same time since it also prevents leaking of oil. Update me. Cheers and thank you for subscribing! :)

Hey CJ, Thank you for subscribing! :) I have also changed my clutch kit twice and I have changed out the Dual Mass Flywheel at 150,000km. Have you changed your DMF? It’s a non-serviceable part that has to be replaced at some point. Juddering while moving off from 1st gear is not normal as mine is very smooth. Juddering can happen in a few scenarios, First, the DMF is worn. Second, the clutch actuator is not functioning properly. Third, the CSC or the concentric slave bearing that is not smooth. I would suggest to bleed the clutch fluid (Dot 4) and change the selespeed fluid (Chf-11s or CS speed) first. As it is the cheapest option. Do you have access to read and diagnose the transmission via the OBD2? Update me. Cheers!

@ thanks a lot for your valuable response. I am in KL. I bought my 159 used with 148k clocked. I had the clutch replaced at 152k as ‘have gearbox checked’ signal appeared more frequently and sometimes the gear stuck at 2/3 had to shift manually. I noted the previous owners had the clutch changed at the same workshop less than 50k ago. The DMF was never changed. I visited another Alfa specialist in KL for the second opinion (like seeing doctors lol) and he said to do it properly, DMF also need to be replaced. The whole job will cost RM 140k. I want to make sure if it’s worth doing it….

Wah....140k or you mean RM14k? I bought the new DMF for about S$650, clutch set includes the CSC about S$350. I have gone through the whole selespeed system and gearbox for it to run smoothly today. There is also the accumulator, the black ball as I called it, that could cause shifting issues too. This also has to be changed from time to time. There are a lot of of other small but important things that I can share with you. I would suggest bleeding the oil of clutch actuator system and changing the selespeed oil. Every time I feel not right with the shifting, I would do both oil changes. Most of the time it will smooth out. You can connect with me through IG @elgdisco. Cheers !

@ haha I meany 14k lah. I sent you IG message tried to connect (and ask more questions 😅😅😅)

You did? What’s your IG? Maybe I deleted accidentally!

It’s from SKF. I do recommend original if you ever gonna change it. Thanks FoxOkinawa!

I am glad too. Now I can enjoy my ride again. You know that feeling when everything is ok and so much satisfaction! Thank you Vallentyn!

Hello! The heat shield also has foam insulation attached to it. This is done to prevent direct heat blast from the fan. Cannot really do anything once everything gets up to temperature but at least there is no direct heat. It’s only done on one side. The 159 has this common issue of the ECU burnt cos of components failure inside. Usually from the 8th to 10th year mark. Colder countries may experience less failures. Mine has burn once, this is my second brand new one from factory. One of the last, they don’t produce them anymore.

Hello, I have replied your other question here too, just in case I missed it I sent it to EA, the previous authorised dealer. They did a good job. The selespeed system is basically a hydraulic system. The oil needs to be changed at least every 6 months, at the same time also bleed the clutch actuator, it’s like the brake system. The selespeed system only uses about 700ml of selespeed oil and you can only use Titan CHF-11s or Tutela CS speed, no other oil else you will risk system failure. The clutch actuator only uses very little oil like 100ml and is normal Dot 4 brake oil. Changing both of these oils regularly will ensure smooth operation. If you are topping up selespeed oil means there is a leak. Hydraulic system are not supposed to leak, they are closed loop system. So have your mechanic check it out. Cheers!

@@elgdiscothanks Elgdisco for all the response 🙏 I just gotten a Brera 09, so I guess I better start to get my ECU insulated as well.

Hello, Thanks for watching! That does happen and I think the car is "thinking", what is this new fuel you are feeding me? LOL But I did realise one thing while replacing my water pump, the double crank or sometimes "coughing" while starting in the morning went away! What I did was that I needed to unplug all the lambda sensors and the Engine ECU while I work on it When everything was done and plugged back in, the engine fires up easily every morning since then. Maybe you can try it. Cheers!

Hey Vallentyn, You can say that again! Thanks for sharing my pain! LOLOL Chears!

thanks for sharing. this recording is very informative for 939 series owners.

You’re welcome!

That's good to hear. So far so good. Thanks bro!

Hey DCS, It's from febi bilstein. I have used their products before, they are quite ok, maybe it is just bad luck... Cheers!

@elgdisco Oh, yes. Febi is a good distributor. They usually pack parts from quality manufacturers, even original parts.

Hey bro, I can feel your pain! Actually the best way I learned after this was to take out the timing cover to check all the timing markings on the timing chain before removing the pump. It will ensure everything goes in properly. It worked for me the first time when I just used the access plate to the water pump, but the second time wasn't so lucky. I had to open up everything including the cam cover to check all the timing markings on the main chain and the balance shafts timing chain. It was a real pain but it had to be done. No short cut! Thank for sharing! Cheers!

@elgdisco You did a great job. I wouldn't dare doing such a massive job on my own.

Thank you!!! You should try it sometime…lolol

@elgdisco 🤣

Thnaks Ruben! Hope you enjoyed my videos. Cheers!

Hey Tony, As long as the cooling system is not leaking, don't touch it! Lol Have you tried some of the stuff I replied to you? Let me know if you need any help. Cheers bro, thank you.

Hey Bigmanflynnjim, Thank you for the kind words! Great project car to have, I think the 939 159 is one of the most beautiful cars. There is only one 1.8Tbi in Singapore and it’s a wagon. I am glad I could help, this is very much a vlog for my repairs and stuff so I can remember what i did on my car. I have done a lot more things but sometimes i just don’t have the time or energy to video everything. I just did my water pump replacements, yes, replacements as the first pump was whining so i had to do the whole replacement one more time. Hours turn into days, but finally it all good and quiet! If you have any questions, you can reach me IG @elgdisco I will try my best to answer them. Thank you.

Hi Tony, Good to hear from you! I have to understand some of the issues that you are facing. The Selespeed system works together with the clutch to function properly. If the clutch side is not working then the whole system wouldn’t work at all. Do you have a OBD2 reader to read the fault codes? It also has to be a specific app program and reader, I’m using the AlfaOBD app and V-linker MX+ to read the fault codes of the engine and Selespeed to narrow down what to work on. The 3 sensors that you mentioned can still be purchased online, they do go bad but it is very unlikely. Two of them are gear position sensors, the other sense the position of the clutch actuator. The Selespeed system is made up of 3 sections, all has it serviceable parts. The main pump system which consists of the reservoir tank, the hydraulic pump, the electric motor and the accumulator(black ball). Which all can be changed, except the hydraulic pump that is built in. The accumulator or black ball as I called it, holds the system pressure and takes shocks when the system changes gears. So when it breaks inside, the system may not change gears or hold gears in position. This is one of the the first part I would replace. Next would be the TCM, transmission control module or the Selespeed’s brain. It’s a squarish box which the system controls the gear shifting. The box attached to the mechanism that shifts the actual gears. There are 12 x O-rings inside there which needs to be replace with high temperature ones. They are wrapped around 4 solenoids which can be seen once the top cover is opened. But has to done carefully. I have done this 6-7 years ago and it still runs great. You will have to take out the O-rings and match them with new ones. Last would be the clutch actuator which you can and should buy a new unit. It’s the one you said with all the black gunk inside that tiny reservoir. I also had that replaced. This unit can be serviceable, but the service kit is hard to find and expensive. So all these 3 parts must work together for a smooth shift. The Selespeed oil is also particularly important, only use Titan CHF-11s or CS speed from tutela and must be change at least every 6 months or 20,000km. So when this is change also suck out the DOT 4 oil from the clutch actuator. You were asking how to get rid of everything inside there. The clutch system can be bled out from a valve that is quite hidden, it is near the left side of the clutch actuator. You would have to turn the nipple head 180 degrees to open the valve and suction from there. I don’t do it every time as it is very hard to get to. These are most of the items that I have done to service the Selespeed system, but most of the time I would just change the Selespeed oil if I feel any hiccups and the problem usually goes away. The Selespeed system is requires very clean oil to run, basically it is a hydraulic system that has a very small tank (700ml) with no filter. So it gets dirty very fast. I usually changed mine every 15,000km to maintain the “freshness” of the oil. Hope this helps, Cheers!

Hi Tony, Can’t do much for the display. You can try to remove it to see if there are any bad connections on the PCB. Or you can get a used one to replace. Cheers buddy!

Not really, everything is managed by the ECU for maximum efficiency. Fuel economy may improve.

Hi bro, Thank you for your confidence in me but I have barely time for myself. Do you have a trusted workshop?

@@elgdiscono bro I just need to do servicing and not any workshop can do top up oil for the actuator and selesspeed oil I need your help

Try Jin Pew motor. He is in autobay

Try Jin Pew motor in autobay. He is a good experience mechanic, done 159s before

Hi Tony Cole, Thank you for watching the video all the way through. It will really help the community and channel. This is my vlog of the repairs. It not to entertain as most parts were just me doing work. Is there a question that you want to ask? Thank you for commenting too, it will also help the channel.

​@@elgdisco hallo I have changed the comment I was to hasty after reading endless uninformative vidios, There are two tanks on top of the gearbox, one big with red fluid and one very small with green fluid, which is gearbox ,and which is clutch , how do you clean the small bottle, black muck in

Hey Tony, The bigger one is about 700ml and it should be only filled with green CHF-11s or CS speed. The very small one is brake dot 4. Very hard to clean, what I do is to suction out everything, pour clean brake fluid and repeat until clean and a small screwdriver to pick out the edges. Time consuming but can be done. Hope this helps.

Hi Tony Cole, This is a very early video before I started logging my repairs of my 159 on TH-cam. Do you own a 159? The bubbles coming from the return pipe indicates that was a leak or broken seal in the clutch actuator or the accumulator. I changed both and the system was fixed.

Hi Tony Cole, That’s all the oil in that part of the system. The rest will lead into a pipe to the CSC then out to the bleed valve which is hidden away and hard to get to. You can bleed the clutch fluid thru the bleed valve and pour fresh oil in but without sucking from the top, the small tank cannot be cleaned which was what I did. Thank you for watching my videos! It will really help the channel.

Hi Tony Cole, Early days of making videos, don’t forget my head was all over the frame too. Not good at camera angles last time.

Hey, There is no difference in performance as it was more of a regular maintenance thing for me. The best way for ECU is insulation and aluminium shield. You can wrap the whole thing up, but heat soak will get temperature up to the engine bay temperature. At least, there will be no direct heat blasting from the fan. Thank you for watching my videos.

Yeah…I took a look at it and decided not to do it myself. I could but I didn’t want to occupy my friend’s workshop for two days. I estimated 8hrs which is quite close to what you have done. It will be done at the previous authorized agent for Alfa Romeo. They still help service the old cars. Thank you for viewing my videos. Cheers vallentyn2007

@@elgdisco Can they still provide software updates?

Damn. Mine stil has the original pump. 2010 and 187.000 km.

No. Cut off from the Italian servers..

My 159 also has a slow loss of coolant…. It losses more when the car is parked for weeks (l.e. When the car is cold)

Hello Victor, It connects to your phone via Bluetooth then it sends a FM signal so that your FM radio can tune in to it. The transmitter allows you to set, say 99.9 Mhz. You can then tune in to 99.9 on your radio. Yes, so it plays through the car speakers. So find an unused frequency and set it for your own use. I bought a few to try the sound, this one sounds good and it charges my phones and gives me a voltage readout. So is 3-in-1 use, ranging from a few $ to $20-50. So buy what you need, on aliexpress is cheaper. Oh yes, you can also answer calls with it and the conversation comes through the car speakers. So that’s 4-in-1! Hope this helps. Thank you for watching! Please subscribe if you have not already. Cheers!

Hello MrAlfa155, If all your door locks are functioning well, then you may have an issue with the central lock computer module which is mounted on the inside of the driver’s door. You would see it in my video with wires connected to it, a plastic box. The temperature sensor is also connected to it. The outside temp sensor is located under the wing mirror. You can buy a new one to change it out, may need some soldering and removal of wing mirror. Do you have a OBD2 reader or scan tool that reads the Alfa 159? It would be best to find out if there are any fault codes on the Body Computer Module (BCM). Or you can try opening up the door panel and check all the connectors. Also spray WD-40 into the connectors. The door allows water to pass through inside so sometimes moisture may cause problems. Let me know how it works out. Thank you for viewing my videos. Do subscribe to help the channel. Thank you.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Good morning, I am running the novetic rear mufflers. The rest are original.

@@elgdisco okay thank you

Hello, Yes, I had a hairline crack on top of the fuel pump before. Changed it, but I didn't have the double crank issue.

Thanks bro, I have done all those before and they were quite recent. Will clean them on the next interval. But the MAF and throttle body clean seems to have solved the problem. I can start on the first crank now!

@@elgdisco Great.

Hello Fox, Yes, only in the morning cold start, the rest of the day is ok. The MAF and throttle body clean seems to have solved the problem! I can hear my fuel pump primed and stopped once it's ready so ain't really the problem. I have also checked my fuel pressure readings from the OBD2 which is also good.

@@elgdisco btw, what is the size of the 5-star torx? thanks.

It's TTS25 & TTS20. The two ends are different. But I used the bigger end so it should be TTS25

@@elgdisco Thanks for the info!

That's great David! Keep it clean

LOL, yes. It does have good induction sound. Going for open pot filter?

Good to hear. Small things makes a great difference!

@@davidBarrel What consumption did you have before and what do you have now? Mine does 12L/100km.

@@elgdisco do you notice any improvement on fuel consumption after the cleaning?

It's the same, I do a lot of city driving so not much difference for me

Hey bro, You might need better hoses. R9 would be good. Weather does play a part. The pressure of the high pressure fuel pump is 30bar on reading which is normal. So good hoses are important.

th-cam.com/video/E51IWPbYo98/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Try here. I didn't do a good video of my shocks replacement as I was not prepared well. I will try to go through my video files and edit some photos and videos. Maybe it will be better. Thank you so much for watching my videos!

Hi Paolo, They came with the key fob I bought. I have also took out the original one from my old key fob but very very carefully...lol I have seen them selling on AliExpress. You can try looking for them there. Thank you so much for watching my videos!

@ElginLim I already have a new key with the Alfa emblem but it doesn't look good... I'll look online to see if I can find anything... thanks

Hello, Thank you for watching my videos. I am glad I could help. Do try to get the best hoses possible. SAE R9 would be the best. The other part you can look at is the L-shape connector that is the quick coupling to the pipe. Sometimes they leak quite bad too.

@@elgdisco Thanks! I will remove and see where are the leaks this weekend.

It turn out to be the quick release plastic connector on the back has perished, the yellow puch button cracked once I push it in. I see you don't have one, may be I will just connect with the clip as per your method as I don't seems to be able to find the right replacement connector.

You can buy the connector coupling from aliexpress or Amazon. The internal size is 7.98 mm. Google fuel connector quick coupling 7.98, should pop up in the search @pingstudio8235

Hello, Thank you for watching my videos. A few things you can look at, First, the position sensors for the cams. They are located under the plastic cover near the fuel line side. Second, the cam phaser actuator solenoids. They help shift the cam phase like what people know as Vtec or VVTI. They are located inside under the engine cover together with the spark plugs and coil pack. Right on top of piston 1. There are two, intake and exhaust, same goes with the position sensors. Thirdly, could be a slag timing chain which causes the cams to be slightly out of phase. Most likely could be the second one, they could get clod up. If you are driving slowly, they don’t actuate, but when rev up high they will actuate to shift the cam phases. Change both and you will feel more power when you rev up. You can look for AC delco brand which are quite good.

I change this oil at least every 6 months or every 15,000 to 20,000km. It’s a very small reservoir so it gets dirty very fast. Thank you for watching my videos.

You do not make sense

Like all robotised gearboxes, it has to be very well maintained. I have only did once full maintenance of all the seals and o-rings. The clutch actuator was also replaced with a new one. It has served me well since 6-7 years ago. I had it since it was 5 years old, now it is into its 14th year. They are very robust but oils have to be changed at least every 6 months and no later. Best is every 3 months. The gearbox itself is a standard manual transmission so every 2 years or 40k miles is alright. You take care of it, it takes care of you. But do find out more on spare parts availability. 159s and breras are going into the 20 year mark since it was last launch so do your homework. Cheers. Thank you for watching.

Woah… so dusty like that you also can see! They are quite loud from 2,500 rpm to 4500 rpm, from here up to rev limit it tapers off. But they sound very nice on cruising speeds. Measured at the inspection centre when getting it approved was around 86 db.

Yes. Brembo always fits better. But it is a little hard getting them here. Parts are cheap but shipping for discs are crazy expensive nowadays. So I decided to skim them first cos they are making noises and pads are old.

Yaaaa…. That’s what I was doing, took so long that my friend started to help me, he says I taking too long…lolol The threads are very dry, I am just afraid to strip the threads. I have removed them before and it was easy, maybe I didn’t lube the threads when I installed them back before. All is good, rear brakes feels better now especially when the handbrake is engaged.

Haha…great minds think alike!

@@elgdisco Yeah. Well, two days before you released the video, but in reality you did them first probably. :D

Thank you Peter!