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Hey bunker, I'm still operating issue free. I haven't had so much as a blip in operation. Great unit

@@madisoncrawford9478 you speak the truth my man. I only did this project because I felt so terrible for the guy who was duped and taken advantage of. This is my last resto for customers. I will continue to do work on older cars but more so for myself. It's very frustrating to do the work properly and half the time you're working behind an old shade tree job or just bad factory stuff.

@@douglasmesina6922 a little bit a day will get it done. My 72 mustang has suffered the same as yours. Keep at it

@@thereluctantgearhead4544 all too true. People need to be honest with themselves and realize this isn't for everyone and they shouldn't be learning on customer vehicles.

@@SteffsGarage That's no shit.

@@mako757 thanks dude I sure appreciate it. I will be getting it done soon enough. Up to my ass in alligators right now with customer work

@@sylvaingosselin1155 and thank you

That's a nice car

@@AnthonyDiSanto-m9l I appreciate you hanging with me. I just spent four days on this driver's fender. Had to strip it completely to bare metal twice. I ended up working the snot out of that metal to get it right.

This is that car. I jambed the doors and underside of the hood. The whole underside is detailed out and painted along with engine bay/motor/trans. This is the last step. Well then reassembly but that the best part so I wouldn’t count that.

Thank you, it’s been a long road.

Thanks Chuck, I wasn’t to put this video out but a friend of mine said I should and he follows the build. He owns a 71 Boss351 thats the same color scheme as my car(when its painted)

Jim we got to get yours done my man.

I almost gave up on it myself but I have so much time and literal blood, sweat, and tears into this car? I’d be nuts to just doo all the hard work and hand this thing off to the next guy for pennies on the dollar. So glad I didn’t do that. I actually sold my 70 Cyclone to buy every last part for this car, and that’s what i did. Hated to see the cyclone go but this Mach1 is something special to me. I appreciate you NOT giving up on me.

Dude you got this, super easy to do but remember to get a broom handle or something with a towel wrapped on the end to keep the glass up, if your struts are worn out and not holding the hatch up anyways. Hit me up on Instagram if you run into a snag. Flc_fl

Man I have but nothing combats this pollen. I used to run the street sweeper when I was in the service and have to carry an epi pen. I hate allergies dude.

@@SteffsGarage Pure misery for me when the Cottonwood trees pollinate . Flonase doesn't help with this either , then nothing does really .

It's been no issues. I just put up a 1 year review actually. Check my channel if u want to see it. All I've done is oil changes and filters like a Honda dirt bike, string as death.

Yes I do have some. If you are getting a small compressor the best thing to do is to get an HE spray gun(High efficiency), they don't require as much air to atomize the paint like my devilbiss gun in the video. Where a standard hvlp gun takes around 28-30 PSI to properly work an HE gun requires around 18-20psi. That will be best suited for a small compressor. Don't be afraid to lay the paint on either. Hit me up on Instagram or Facebook and I can help u through some of this. @flc_fl Search EVOT13 on Amazon. That's my favorite high efficiency gun. It has a 1.3 tip and will give a nice finish. Use only 2K paint products and no lawyer paints. 2K means it has a catalyst/hardener. If it's not a 2K clear for the base coat clear coat 2 stage system the paint will never get hard and it is equal to a Krylon rattle can.

@@danielpodlevski638 Thanks dude for checking out the vid. These old cars are like grandparents sometimes, they take patience and understanding to deal with. Lol

Hell yeah dude!! Make it happen. I ruined some stuff before I knew to reduce it and I had to make sure people got that message. Thanks again. Here is my Instagram if you ever get in a situation and need help. @FLC_FL

You've got this dude. I have yet to see one of these mustangs that hasn't had this part replaced or patched from rotting.

Ron you are the man dude. It is a great system. Very affordable compared to other brands. One of the biggest pluses for me is that as long as harboufreight is open I can have access to the product. Where as when the paint shop closes on Friday, you can't get the 3M or any other system they sell until they open again on Monday. Much more convenient to at least have this setup as an alternative

I'm not really sure what you mean by tip sizes unless you're referring to the spray gun itself which shouldn't have any impact on the cup system I'm using a devilbiss tekna Pro-Lite with a 1.3mm tip. I was using the devilbiss d-cup system before which has three different size cups

@@SteffsGarage Got it. Thanks Sounds like inexpensive refills for my 3M. Just refilled, wouldn't you know. LOL!!

@@SteffsGarage the 3m system is cups and throw away tips. really like that system but it ads up fast.

Thank you

How do you like the black widow for base and clear, what other spray guns have you used?

@@SteffsGarage Years ago I used Devilbiss. My son and I used a Spectrum HVLP to paint his car a few years ago and it did well, but required cut and buff afterwards. I have not painted anything with the Black Widows yet, but I have watched a bunch of folks with a lot of experience painting say they are great guns for the "garage painter", like me. I'm restoring my 1 owner 89 Olds Toronado Trofeo, and am video-ing all the steps, so painting it will be part of that process (that has been in progress since about January this year). It will be posted when I get to that. The car is nearly ready for primer, and I'm now in the process of converting my garage into a better paint booth than we used before.

Thank you for checking it out. I am very pleased with this system and the price point is incredible. I believe the nut adapter is compatible with the 3M series 1 system of cups as well.

Thank you very much. Not a lot of big body mustang people out here, glad to meet a friend.

Hey man I really appreciate it. I do have a hard time dialing back what I'm thinking a lot of times because you can get canceled so fast it's unreal. It's hilarious that logical thinking isn't allowed in today's society. I plan on doing a lot more with the old Ford truck once I get done with my Mach 1 mustang.

@@SteffsGarage car TH-cam is not where TH-camrs get canceled you’re safe with us 🤣🤙🏼

No I did not have to modify any of the wiring for the gauges to work except for adding a digital to analog converter on the tachometer.

They can't be beat for the price. I tried some more expensive but still affordable guns called Astro and they are fantastic for the money

Man that is too cool. I sure appreciate you sharing that with everybody. All those coverage at engines were legendary. I still have yet to take my 72 down the road for its maiden voyage with the rebuilt 351 Cleveland 4 bolt main Cobra jet motor. It should be pretty cool

It was, mostly due to it being flimsy and fragile.

Hey Andrew thanks for checking it out. The dynacorn full floor is my favorite way of doing floors. If your car isn't blown apart already floor patches may be the way to go.

Thank you very much. I appreciate the kind words.

Best comment ever, thank you.

Lol mom

Hey man I know there is this thing that the Eastwood company has that's an aerosol coating you can do that has this very long straw with a bunch of holes all around it that you can run through your cow and it'll coat it the best way you can without removing it. It's a very minimal cost for the product in very little effort to apply it. They advertise it as a frame rail coating tool and in the top rails of old '50s Fords and GM trucks that have the tubular top rails. This would be a great alternative to cutting your cow open to treat it. But if you're up to opening up your cow just drill out all the spot welds of it as if you're going to replace it but in that same thought you might as well replace it if you're going to go through all the hassle at least the top. Obviously the choice is yours but those are my thoughts on it all.

You can also start at the very ends of each side of the cow and put poor 15 on a paintbrush because a little goes a long way and just apply it with a small paint brush or a terry cloth of some sort. And work your way back to the center so you're not putting poor 15 all over your arms

@@SteffsGarage Thanks, great ideas. I'll be taking a closer look soon to see if any rust is in there

They will be the same part. I think dynacorn is the only company making them but I could be wrong on that.

Welcome.

@@SteffsGarage just started putting a floor pan in my 66 dart

Yes it was dude. One of my first videos and is very dated now. This is not the easiest way to do this either. It was the only way I could this of at the time but now I would have done it differently.